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Routes

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Grade Route
1
VS 4c ** Phantom Rib Trad
2
E2 5c ** Surplomb Trad
3
E3 6a ** Quasar Trad
4
HVS 5b *** Brant Direct Trad 35m
5
E3 6a ** Stroll On Trad
6
E1 5b ** Hangover Trad
7
HVS 5b ** Kaiserbirge Wall Trad
8
HVS 5a *** Spectre Trad 4

Rockfax Description The monstrous third pitch is good value HVS. Start at the toe of the left-hand buttress.

  1. 4c, 28m. Climb the slab to gain the thin crack. Follow this up to a small ledge on the right. Head straight up to the right-hand end of the large ledge that Nea starts from, and traverse rightwards below the holly tree. Then climb easily up to a ledge and belay below an open groove.

  2. 5a, 28m. Follow the crack up the back of the groove. This proves a bit of a tussle until stood on a sloping ledge about 8m up. From here, make a puzzling traverse up and left around the arete to finally pull onto the slab above. Head up and right to a large flake and belay below an intimidating wide slot.

  3. 5a, 10m. If you have planned ahead, then this is your mate's lead! Move up to the slot where a long sling and basketball skills will allow you to thread the chockstone from below. Prepare for battle and wade into the wide crack. Having succeeded it still requires a steady head to continue up the fist-crack to the ledge above.

  4. Finish as for P3 of Nea (ed. Up left easily OR rap off the tatt at end of P3) . © ROCKFAX

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