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Routes

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Grade Route
1
E2 5c *** Left Wall Trad 45m
2
E3 6a *** Left wall direct finish Trad 60m

Go straight up instead of traversing left

3
E4 6a *** Resurrection Trad 55m
4
E1 5c *** Cenotaph Corner Trad 45m
5
E5 6a *** Right Wall Trad 45m

FA: Pete Livesey

6
E1 5b *** Cemetry Gates Trad
7

Straight up instead of heading to arête for second pitch

8
VS 5a *** Noah's Warning Trad 68m 2
9
VS 4c ** Sabre Cut Trad 55m
10
HS 4a ** Dives/Better Things Trad 63m
11
VD *** Flying Buttress Trad 90m 6

A superb ridge climb leading to a fine finish high up on the wall. Start at the base of the prominent jagged ridge running down the eastern side of the crag.

  1. 20m. Head up the middle of the buttress to belay by a block on a large ledge.

  2. 20m. Continue up to the large pinnacles at the top of the main ridge, belaying on the right-hand side of the last spike before the col.

  3. 5m. Drop down into the col and belay (skip this belay if you are a confident leader but watch your rope work for the runners placed in the col section).

  4. 15m. Climb a grassy crack to gain a leftwards-trending line leading to a superb belay on the arete.

  5. 15m. Climb up the lovely slab then trend rightwards to a large sloping ledge below the final chimney.

  6. 15m. Entering the chimney via the crack is something of a crux not made easier by the polish of thousands of passing climbers. The awkward section is thankfully short-lived! Descend the main gully to the right.

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