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Summary

Great crack climbs, overhangs and slabs make this a versatile location for emerging leaders and top-ropers alike.

Description

Lying on the south side of Blackford Hill and formed from volcanic rock this crag is quick drying and warm even on the coldest of winter days. A forgotten favourite of Edinburgh locals in the 60s and 70s, the crag is undergoing a clean up and new routes are being opened up all along it.

Approach

From the Midmar Drive car park, head through the field and turn right out of the gate. Head along the path about 150m and you'll see the crag on the left. The approach is steep scree but stable once you've reached the bottom of the cliff.

From the Observatory car park head up along the road towards the telephone mast. The crag is on the south side of the knoll 150m south west of the mast and can be approached from either the north-east along a gorse path or the north-west along the cliff side.

Routes

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HVS ** Golf Balls Trad Project 20m

Follow the crack up and left under the overhang for 5m. Round the corner to come out above the overhang and head up through the V in the rock for a few nice restful footholds. The direct line takes you over a mantle or you can traverse across to the right for a finish up a juggy spine.

Great route for your first HVS and to progress your crack leading skills. Micros and slings a must.

There's plenty of exposure on this route, but the protection is there if you know where to look.

FA: Euan Moir, Ricki Barclay, 2013

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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