A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our Usage policy
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
Long/Lat: -3.191759, 55.921637
- Unique Features And Strengths:
Great crack climbs, overhangs and slabs make this a versatile location for emerging leaders and top-ropers alike.
Lying on the south side of Blackford Hill and formed from volcanic rock this crag is quick drying and warm even on the coldest of winter days. A forgotten favourite of Edinburgh locals in the 60s and 70s, the crag is undergoing a clean up and new routes are being opened up all along it.
From the Midmar Drive car park, head through the field and turn right out of the gate. Head along the path about 150m and you'll see the crag on the left. The approach is steep scree but stable once you've reached the bottom of the cliff.
From the Observatory car park head up along the road towards the telephone mast. The crag is on the south side of the knoll 150m south west of the mast and can be approached from either the north-east along a gorse path or the north-west along the cliff side.
Follow the crack up and left under the overhang for 5m. Round the corner to come out above the overhang and head up through the V in the rock for a few nice restful footholds. The direct line takes you over a mantle or you can traverse across to the right for a finish up a juggy spine.
Great route for your first HVS and to progress your crack leading skills. Micros and slings a must.
There's plenty of exposure on this route, but the protection is there if you know where to look.
FA: Euan Moir, Ricki Barclay, 2013