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Routes

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Grade Route
1
E4 6b Arabian Nights Trad
3
FR 7a+ Koran Direct Sport
4
FR 6c+ * Ayatolla Sport
5
E5 6a Hubris Trad
6
FR 7a+ Barely Decent Sport
8
FR 7c Balls Out Sport
9
FR 7b+ *** Indescent Exposure Sport
11
FR 7c+ The Full Monty Sport
12
FR 7c Half Decent Sport
13
FR 8a Unzipped Sport
14
FR 7c *** Body Machine Sport
15
FR 7c+ Body Machine Direct Sport
17
FR 8a+ Bodybuilder Sport
18
FR 8a Anger Management Sport
19
FR 8a+ Cross 'n Angry Sport
20
FR 7c The Prow (Classic) Sport
21
FR 8a The Prow Sport
22
FR 8a The Crucifixion Sport
24
FR 7c+ Proud Whore Sport
25
FR 8a Brazen Strumpet Sport
26
FR 8b+ ** JehovahKill Sport
27
FR 8b *** Revelations Sport
28
FR 8b *** Rage Sport
29
FR 8c+ *** Hubble Sport

Old school grading... Hard.

FA: Ben Moon, 1990

30
31
Brandenburg Gate Sport Project
33
FR 8c *** Make It Funky Sport
34
FR 8c Mega Whore Sport
35

A fine, historic route from the 80s, which has some stopper moves and regularly repels redpoint attempts. Start in the cave and swing out to gain the wall. Reaching the hanging groove up and left is taxing, climbing it is only marginally easier. Finish by stretching left to the big flake and lower-off, or try the next route.

FA: Martin Atkinson, 1988

36
FR 8c *** Mecca Extension Sport 25m

The full version is an incredible stamina test which packs an 8a+ on top of the already desperate 8b+. There is a rest at the Mecca flake and a breather higher up before the upper crux.

FA: Steve McClure, 1998

37
FR 8c ** Hajj Sport
38
FR 8c+ *** Kaabah Sport
39
FR 8c+ *** Evolution Sport 12m

Moffatt's last significant route at the Tor was a major achievement in every respect, although it has now been over-shadowed by Mutation. Lower-off above the small flake which is reached after a crucial span left.

FA: Jerry Moffatt, 1995

40
FR 9a *** Mutation Sport 25m

The most impressive of McClure's awesome additions to the crag and the current hardest in the Peak. Before the hard span near the top of Evolution gain a pinch after a hideous cross-over move. Continue up the wall above to the lower-off on Chimes.

FA: Steve McClure, 1998

41
FR 9a Stevolution Sport
42
FR 8b+ Devolution Sport
44
FR 9a Roofolution Sport
45
FR 8a+ *** Chimes of Freedom Sport 25m

One of the more popular hard routes at the Tor. There are several methods to pull around the bottom roof, all are hard and powerful. Some lower-off at the first break above the roof for an 8a tick, but the wall above is superb and considerably easier (7c), to finish at a lower-off in a scoop. The initial roof had a huge block on it which made the route much easier. Reclimbed in 1990 by Ben Moon after this block had fallen off.

FA: Andy Pollitt, 1986

46
FR 8a+ Boot Boys Sport
47
FB 6C ** Boot Boys Start Boulder
48
FB 7C *** Powerband Boulder
49
FB 8A *** Staminaband Boulder
50
FB 7C+ ** Strict Blueband Boulder
51
FB 7C+ *** Ben's Roof Boulder
52
FB 8B *** Keen Roof Boulder

The centre of the cave from back left.

FA: James Pearson

53
54
FR 7b+ *** Sardine Sport 22m

A classic polished Peak landmark which is still a tough route to onsight. There are a few ways of doing the lower crux and the upper wall is not to be underestimated either, with a tricky move or two moving right near the top.

FA: Ron Fawcett, 1981

55
FB 7B Out of my Tree Start Boulder
56
FB 7A+ Rattle & Hump Start Boulder
57
FB 7A Saline Drip start Boulder

Open trips

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