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Routes

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Grade Route
1
E4 6b Arabian Nights Trad
2
3
{FR} 7a+ Koran Direct Sport
4
{FR} 6c+ * Ayatolla Sport
5
E5 6a Hubris Trad
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{FR} 7a+ Barely Decent Sport
8
{FR} 7c Balls Out Sport
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{FR} 7b+ *** Indescent Exposure Sport
11
{FR} 7c+ The Full Monty Sport
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{FR} 7c Half Decent Sport
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{FR} 8a Unzipped Sport
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{FR} 7c *** Body Machine Sport
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{FR} 7c+ Body Machine Direct Sport
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{FR} 8a+ Bodybuilder Sport
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{FR} 8a Anger Management Sport
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{FR} 8a+ Cross 'n Angry Sport
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{FR} 7c The Prow (Classic) Sport
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{FR} 8a The Prow Sport
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{FR} 8a The Crucifixion Sport
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{FR} 7c+ Proud Whore Sport
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{FR} 8a Brazen Strumpet Sport
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{FR} 8b+ ** JehovahKill Sport
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{FR} 8b *** Revelations Sport
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{FR} 8b *** Rage Sport
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{FR} 8c+ *** Hubble Sport

Old school grading... Hard.

FA: Ben Moon, 1990

30
{FR} 8a The Whore of Babylon Sport
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Brandenburg Gate Sport Project
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{FR} 8c *** Make It Funky Sport
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{FR} 8c Mega Whore Sport
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{FR} 8b+ *** Mecca - The Mid-life Crisis Sport 12m

A fine, historic route from the 80s, which has some stopper moves and regularly repels redpoint attempts. Start in the cave and swing out to gain the wall. Reaching the hanging groove up and left is taxing, climbing it is only marginally easier. Finish by stretching left to the big flake and lower-off, or try the next route.

FA: Martin Atkinson, 1988

36
{FR} 8c *** Mecca Extension Sport 25m

The full version is an incredible stamina test which packs an 8a+ on top of the already desperate 8b+. There is a rest at the Mecca flake and a breather higher up before the upper crux.

FA: Steve McClure, 1998

37
{FR} 8c ** Hajj Sport
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{FR} 8c+ *** Kaabah Sport
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{FR} 8c+ *** Evolution Sport 12m

Moffatt's last significant route at the Tor was a major achievement in every respect, although it has now been over-shadowed by Mutation. Lower-off above the small flake which is reached after a crucial span left.

FA: Jerry Moffatt, 1995

40
{FR} 9a *** Mutation Sport 25m

The most impressive of McClure's awesome additions to the crag and the current hardest in the Peak. Before the hard span near the top of Evolution gain a pinch after a hideous cross-over move. Continue up the wall above to the lower-off on Chimes.

FA: Steve McClure, 1998

41
{FR} 9a Stevolution Sport
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{FR} 8b+ Devolution Sport
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{FR} 9a Roofolution Sport
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{FR} 8a+ *** Chimes of Freedom Sport 25m

One of the more popular hard routes at the Tor. There are several methods to pull around the bottom roof, all are hard and powerful. Some lower-off at the first break above the roof for an 8a tick, but the wall above is superb and considerably easier (7c), to finish at a lower-off in a scoop. The initial roof had a huge block on it which made the route much easier. Reclimbed in 1990 by Ben Moon after this block had fallen off.

FA: Andy Pollitt, 1986

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{FR} 8a+ Boot Boys Sport
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{FB} 6C ** Boot Boys Start Boulder
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{FB} 7C *** Powerband Boulder
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{FB} 8A *** Staminaband Boulder
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{FB} 7C+ ** Strict Blueband Boulder
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{FB} 7C+ *** Ben's Roof Boulder
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{FB} 8B *** Keen Roof Boulder

The centre of the cave from back left.

FA: James Pearson

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{FB} 7B *** The Weedkiller Traverse Boulder
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{FR} 7b+ *** Sardine Sport 22m

A classic polished Peak landmark which is still a tough route to onsight. There are a few ways of doing the lower crux and the upper wall is not to be underestimated either, with a tricky move or two moving right near the top.

FA: Ron Fawcett, 1981

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{FB} 7B Out of my Tree Start Boulder
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{FB} 7A+ Rattle & Hump Start Boulder
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{FB} 7A Saline Drip start Boulder

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