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Summary

It has the name for a reason. With one prominent buttress after another there are enough classics here to keep one busy for a lifetime.

Description

Covers the 'B.A.W.'s Area' through to the 'Black Hawk Area'.

Approach

Park in the designated bay's at the Hook's Car Park. Do not park on the curb/verge.

Routes

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Grade Route

An eliminate of sorts. Climb the rock between 'Dover's Wall, Route 1' and 'Dover's Wall, Route 2', avoiding holds on both.

Traverses the break above 'The Punk'.

A variant of 'Public Image' that finishes direct.

A variant of 'Pedlar's Rib' that heads left at the break.

FA: 1922

Layback the flake just left of the descent gully. Tricky move to finish.

With a collection of classic routes across a range of grades this is certainly one of Stanage's best buttresses.

FFA: 1950

Start in leaning groove, climb to bridge below bulges then follow flake crack which eases off towards the top.

FA: Roy Horseman, 1927

FA: 2003

FA: 2004

FA: 1932

A link up of CI start and Harding finish. Best of both worlds.

FA: 1999

The chimney. Climbed either deep inside through chock stones (secure) or towards the outside (less so).

The long crack in the wall is started at a small rightward facing corner then direct up.

Climb the nice jamming crack, round a slight overhang to the ledge then up the rounded face to top out.

The clean crack in the right facing corner. The lower section is somewhat polished and is the crux while the upper section is a bit more juggy but still interesting. Good gear throughout.

FA: George Bower, 1926

The long groove on the right side of the pillar. Good pro throughout.

FA: 2004

Climb the crack to the narrow chimney and grunt past the chockstone

S if lead over the capping block. VD if lead under and through the hole. Nice little route for those who like chimneys and bridging a lot.

6m left of Malarete. the left pillar of the 3 pillars.side by side.

FA: Harvey Portier Age 8, 2011

Starts in a small cave that faces 'Higgar Tor', approx. 25m below 'Moriarty'.

Climb the right hand corner moving awkwardly left at the overhang.

A direct finish to 'Anatomy'. Follow the right-hand upper cracks.

A variation of 'Manchester United'. Follow the face to the right of the initial crack before going direct to the high ledge.

Climb the narrow buttress to a narrow ledge then finish up the rounded buttress to the top, or try the easier (VD) corner.

Climb the open groove to the crux, a bulge/overhang

The original route on this buttress. Starts up 'Niche Wall Direct' before finishing up 'Nicheless Climb'.

Finish directly, staying right of the crack.

The grade drops to VS 5b if you use holds/protection on 'Gashed Crack'.

A variation on 'Finale' that stays to the right of the arete.

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