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Summary

It has the name for a reason. With one prominent buttress after another there are enough classics here to keep one busy for a lifetime.

Description

Covers the 'B.A.W.'s Area' through to the 'Black Hawk Area'.

Approach

Park in the designated bay's at the Hook's Car Park. Do not park on the curb/verge.

Routes

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Grade Route

Pal Buttress

1
VS 4b Old Pal Trad 7m
2
S 5a Pal Trad 7m
3
VD Palermo Trad 7m
4
VD Pal Joey Trad 7m
5
VS 4c Kangaroo Trad 7m
6
VS 4c Skippy Trad

Dover's Wall

7
M Bumbler's Arete Trad 7m
9
HS 5a Beady Eye Trad 6m
10
HVS 5c Long Reaches? Trad 7m
11
HD * Newhaven Trad 7m
12
S 4b Ramsgate Trad 7m
13
S 4b Dieppe Trad 7m
14
VS 4b Dover's Wall, Route 3 Trad 12m
15
VS 4c Falaise de Douvre Trad 7m
16
HVS 5a * Nothing to do with Dover Trad 12m
17
HVS 5a * Dover's Wall, Route 2 Trad 12m
18

An eliminate of sorts. Climb the rock between 'Dover's Wall, Route 1' and 'Dover's Wall, Route 2', avoiding holds on both.

19
S 4a * Dover's Wall, Route 1 Trad 12m
20
VS 4b Dover's Wall, Route 4 Trad 11m
21
HVS 5b The Grey Cliffs of ... Trad 12m
22
23
E1 5c On a Wing and Prayer Trad 12m
24
E1 5b * 5.9 Finish Trad 12m
25
VS 5b * Wing Buttress Trad 13m
26
VS 5b * Cleft Wing Trad 12m
27
VS 4c * Cleft Wing Superdirect Trad 12m
28
E3 6a Trimming the Beard Trad 11m
29
30
E1 5b Taking a Winger Trad 12m
31
VD Wing Wall Trad 11m

B.A.W.'s Crawl Buttress

32
S 5a Bouldering Matt Trad 5m
33
HS 4c Blue December Sky Trad 5m
34
D The Nays Trad 8m
35
S 4a Jon's Route Trad 9m
36
VS 4c Eyes Trad 9m
37
HVS 5a Little Pete Trad 8m
40
VS 4b * The Punk Trad 10m
41
VS 4c Old Smoothie Trad 15m

Traverses the break above 'The Punk'.

42
E6 6c ** Cemetery Waits Trad 9m
43
E7 6c *** Shine On Trad 9m
44
HVS 5a *** B.A.W.'S Crawl Trad 10m
45
E1 6a * Punklet Trad 9m
46
V9 The Golden Path Boulder
47
VS 5a Public Image Trad 15m
48
VS 5a Public Face Trad

A variant of 'Public Image' that finishes direct.

49
VD Green Chimney Trad 10m
50
HVS 5c Paste Trad 10m
51
E1 5c ** Pedlar's Rib Trad 11m
52
E2 5c Non-stop Pedalling Trad 11m

A variant of 'Pedlar's Rib' that heads left at the break.

53
HVS 5a * Pedlar's Arete Trad 11m
54
E1 5b Keep Pedalling Trad 10m
55
HVS 5c ** Pedlar's Slab Trad 11m
56
HVS 5b Pedlar's Wall Trad 10m
57
S Top Block Rock Trad 10m
58
VS 4c Elastic Trad 10m
59
D Corner Crack Trad 8m
60
VD Recess Rib Trad 8m
61
VS 5a Topo Mania Trad 8m
62
HVD Viridescent Corner Trad 8m
63
M Left Flank Trad 8m
64
HS 4b Pisa Pillar Trad 10m
65
HVS 5c Right Side Trad 10m
66
VD Hidden Crack Trad 10m
67
VS 4c Pisa Crack Trad 11m

Verandah Buttress

68
E3 6a * Plastic Dream Trad 10m
69
E3 6a Tarzan Boy Trad 10m
70
E5 6b ** Headless Chicken Trad 13m
71
E4 6b *** Off With His Head Trad 14m
72
E3 5c ** The Guillotine Trad 16m
73
E4 6b *** Guillotine Direct Trad 14m
74
E2 5b * The Old Dragon Trad 14m
75
E3 6b Mary Whitehouse Trad
77
E1 5c Fit as a Butcher's Dog Trad 12m
78
HVD 5b * Verandah Buttress Trad 14m
79
HVS 5b * Butcher Crack Trad 12m
80
E1 6a One Stop Shopping Trad 10m
81
E1 5c * Greengrocer Wall Trad 10m
82
D Verandah Crack Trad 8m
83
VS 4c Verandah Wall Trad 10m
84
VS 4c * Cocktails Trad 9m
85
HS 4b * Verandah Pillar Trad 10m
86
VS 5a The Confectioner Trad 8m

Roundabout Buttress

87
VS 5a 5 See Plus Trad 10m
90
HVS 5a * Jaygo's Pipe Trad 10m
91
HVS 5c Second Wind Trad 11m
92
E1 5c * Swings Trad 11m
93
HVS 5b The Roundabout Trad 12m
94
VD * Turf Crack Trad 10m
95
HS 4b * Little Tower Trad 8m
96
HVS 5a 49 Bikinis Trad 9m
97
S Beads Trad 7m
98
S Trinket Trad 7m
99
100
VS 4c Vanishing Point Trad 10m

Martello Buttress

101
HVS 4c Zel Trad 13m
102
VS 4c ** Byne's Route Trad 15m
103
E2 6a Choux Trad 15m
104
E1 5c Choux Fleur Trad 15m
106
HVS 5a *** The Scoop/Ozymandias Trad 15m
107
HS 4b *** Martello Buttress Trad 17m

FA: 1922

108
E3 5c * Bloodshot Trad 15m
109
HVS 5a Hebden's Heights Trad
110
VS 4b * The Old Scoop Trad 15m
112
M * Martello Cracks Trad 10m

Saliva Buttress

113
VD * Mistella Trad 12m
114
HVS 5c Wax Museum Trad 12m
115
E1 5c * Phlegethoa Trad 12m
117
E2 6a ** Fading Star Trad 13m
118
E1 5b ** Saliva Trad 15m
119
E3 5c * Ashes Trad 12m
120
HD ** Devil's Chimney Trad 13m
121
HS Stay in the Light Trad 13m
122
VS 5a ** Step-ladder Crack Trad 15m
123
E3 6b Dark Water Trad 14m
124
VS 4c ** Hell Crack Trad 13m
125
E1 5b Still in Limbo Trad 13m
126
VD *** Heaven Crack Trad 10m

Layback the flake just left of the descent gully. Tricky move to finish.

127
HVS 5a Lethe Trad 10m
128
VS 5a * The Aeneid Trad 35m
129
HS 4a Jean's Line Trad 10m

Mississippi Buttress

With a collection of classic routes across a range of grades this is certainly one of Stanage's best buttresses.

130
E1 5c Gathering Gloom Trad 10m
131
E1 5b ** Acheron Trad 17m
132
VS 4c The Louisiana Rib Trad 18m

FFA: 1950

133
HVS 5b * Ferryboat Highway Trad 32m
134
HVS 5a * Finger Licking Good Trad 18m
135
HVS 5b The Levee Trad 17m
136
137
E3 5c African Herbs Trad 18m
138
E1 5c ** Dark Continent Trad 18m
139
E4 6a Nairobi Trad 18m
140
HVS 5b *** Congo Corner Trad 24m
141
E1 5b ** The Link Trad 22m
142
E2 5c * The Mersey Variant Trad 22m
143

Start in leaning groove, climb to bridge below bulges then follow flake crack which eases off towards the top.

FA: Roy Horseman, 1927

144
HVS 5a ** The Mississippi Variant Trad 24m
145
E2 5c * Orinoco Flow Trad 22m
147
E4 5c ** Stanleyville Trad 22m
148
E4 6a * Puzzlelock Trad 22m
149
E1 5b ** Morrison's Redoubt Trad 18m
150
E3 6a Melancholy Witness Trad 17m
151
S 4a ** Amazon Crack Trad 12m
152
HVS 5b Tributary Trad 12m
153
154
155
VS 5a Pixie Trad 12m
156
D Fairy Chimney Trad 11m

Balcony Buttress

157
VS 4c Polyfilla Trad 14m
159
HVD Balcony Climb Trad 12m
160
S 4a * Balcony Cracks Trad 14m
161
E2 5c Nine-Eleven Trad 14m

FA: 2003

162
E1 5b * Exit Stage Left Trad 20m
163
HVS 5a ** Centre Stage Trad 18m
164
HVS 5a Balcony Bulge Trad
165
S 4a *** Balcony Buttress Trad 20m
166
HVS 5a Balcony Balustrade Trad 16m
167
VD The Flue Trad 14m
168
VS 4c Big Yin Trad 14m
169
HS 4b * Scoop Crack Trad 14m
170
VS 4c Rib and Face Trad 12m
171
D Balcony Corner Trad 9m
172
VS 5b Upanover Trad 8m
173
S Upanover Crack Trad 8m
174
M Twinkle Toes Trad 8m

Twin Chimneys Area

175
E1 5b Savage Amusement Trad 10m
176
VS 4c M Route Trad 11m
177
HS 4a * N Route Trad 10m
178
E4 6a Regret Trad 11m
179
HVS 5a ** Agony Crack Trad 11m
180
E3 6a * Big Dave's Wall Trad 11m
181
VS 4c * Thrombosis Trad 11m
182
HS 4b Rigor Mortis Trad 12m
183

FA: 2004

184
VS 4c Paralysis Trad 12m
185
VS 4c Boris the Bold Trad 10m
186
VS 5a * Via Roof Route Trad 8m
187
E1 5c Don't Bark, Bite Trad 18m
188
E1 5c Rabies Trad
189
VD ** Crack and Cave Trad 18m
190
E3 5c Bill & Ted's Lobotomy Trad 16m
191
HVS 5a ** Twin Chimneys Buttress Trad 17m
192
E1 5b Lucy's Joy Trad 15m
193
VS 4b Lucy's Delight Trad 15m
194
M ** Left Twin Chimney Trad 15m
195
VS 4b Triplet Trad 17m
196
VD ** Right Twin Chimney Trad 11m
197
E1 5a Bobsnob Trad 14m
198
S 4b * Little John's Step Trad 25m
199
200
S Little Slab Trad 12m
201
VD Awl Trad 12m
202
VS 5a Bean Trad 15m
203
HS Dun Trad 15m
204
D ** Bee Trad 12m
205
VS 4c * Four Trad 12m

Wuthering Buttress

207
E3 6a *** The Asp Trad 10m
208
E5 6a * Boc No Buttress Trad 14m
209
E5 6c * Boc No Buttress Direct Trad 12m
210
E2 5b *** Wuthering Trad 20m
211
E2 5b * Dithering Frights Trad 18m
212
HVS 5a Premier Trad 18m
216
E2 6b * Withered Thing Trad 17m
218
HVS 5b ** Paucity Trad 18m
219
E2 6a Wearing Thin Trad
220
HVD ** Robin Hood's Crack Trad 18m
222
VD * Tea- Leaf Crack Trad 15m

Robin Hood's Cave Buttress

224
E2 5c * Last Ice Cream Trad 8m
225
E2 5c * Just One Cornetto Trad 8m
226
HVS 5a ** Cave Gully Wall Trad 14m
227
E4 6a * Sands of Time Trad 22m
228
VS 5a ** Cave Innominate Trad 14m

FA: 1932

229

A link up of CI start and Harding finish. Best of both worlds.

231
E6 6c ** Carpe Diem Trad 15m
232
E3 5c Last Bolt Trad 20m
233
E3 6a ** Cave Eliminate Trad 16m
234
HVS 5a ** Cave Arete Trad 16m
236
E1 5b Broken Arrow Trad 5m

FA: 1999

237
E4 6a * Constipation Trad 14m
238
E5 6b ** Pacific Ocean Wall Trad 14m
239
E1 5c *** Desperation Trad 12m
241
242
VS 4b * Rubber Band Trad 20m
243
VS 4b Kenneth Trad 11m
244
HS 4b Stringer Trad 10m

Boot Buttress

245
VS 4c * Titbit Trad 8m
246
HS 4c Muesli Trad 10m
247
VS 4c Cornflakes Trad 10m
248
HD * Boot Crack Trad 10m
249
VS 5a Soft Shoe Trad 10m
250
VD Shuffle Trad 10m
251
HVS 5c Before Dunne Trad 6m
253
E4 6a Madhouse Trad 12m
254
VD * Twin Cracks Trad 11m
255
S Left Twin Crack Trad 10m
256
VS 4c * Right Twin Crack Trad 11m
257
VS 4c ** Ellis's Eliminate Trad 20m
258
HVS 5b ** Good Friday Trad 15m
259
E4 6a Bob's Jolly Jape Trad 15m
260
E1 5c Introversion Trad 18m
261
VS 4b *** Inverted V Trad 22m
262
HVS 4c ** Retroversion Trad 21m
263
E3 6a Our Version Trad 21m
265
E5 6a Thunder Road Trad 21m
266
HVS 5a * Cold Turkey Trad 20m
267
VS 4c ** Straight Crack Trad 20m
268
S 4a ** Robin Hood Zigzag Trad 24m
269
HVS 5b * Spring into Action Trad 20m
270
E3 6b Stage Fright Trad 9m
271
E2 5c The Actress Trad 9m
272
S 4a *** Bishop's Route Trad 25m
273
VS 4b ** Zagrete Trad 20m
274
E3 5c Brittle Star Trad 18m
275
VS 4a ** Zigzag Flake Crack Trad 18m
276
E2 5b Coconut Ice Trad 18m
277
E1 5c * Ice Boat Trad 20m
278
VS 5a * The Little Flake Crack Trad 18m
279
S ** Flake Chimney Trad 16m

The chimney. Climbed either deep inside through chock stones (secure) or towards the outside (less so).

280
HVS 5b Hybrid Trad 15m
281
D * Pedestal Chimney Trad 15m
282
VS 4c * Wright's Route Trad 17m
283
E6 6b *** Wall of Sound Trad 17m

Black Slab Buttress

284
HVS 5b ** Black Magic Trad 15m
285
HVS 5b * Whillans' Pendulum Trad
286
E3 5c * Echoes Trad 18m
288
HS 4b ** Macleod's Variation Trad 18m
289
HVS 5b ** The Flange Trad 15m
290
HS 4b ** April Crack Trad 15m
291
HVS 5b Spring Wall Trad 15m
292
E1 5b ** Easter Rib Trad 15m
293
HS 4b *** Christmas Crack Trad 15m
294
HVS 5b Holiday Quartet Trad 14m
295
VS 4c *** Central Trinity Trad 15m
296
E1 5c Twintrin Trad 14m
297
HVS 5b * Meiosis Trad 14m
298
HS 4a *** Right Hand Trinity Trad 13m

The long crack in the wall is started at a small rightward facing corner then direct up.

299
300
E2 5c Well Right Trad 13m
301
E4 6a * Topaz Trad 10m
302
E1 5b Topaz Copout Trad

Rugosity Wall

303
VS 4b * Green Crack Trad 11m
304
HVS 5c * Rugosity Wall Trad 11m
305
HVS 6a * Rusty Wall Trad 11m
306
HVS 5b * Rusty Crack Trad 11m
307
VS 4c * Via Media Trad 11m
308
HVS 5b Via Trivia Trad
309
E2 5c * Via Dexter Trad 11m
310
S Oblique Crack Trad 11m

Climb the nice jamming crack, round a slight overhang to the ledge then up the rounded face to top out.

311
VS 5b Oblique Buttress Trad 11m
312
VD Straight Chimney Trad 11m
313
HS 4c Albert's Pillar Trad 11m
314
HVD Albert's Amble Trad 11m

Hollybush Crack Area

315
VS 4c ** Narrow Buttress Trad 14m
316
HVS 5a Straight and Narrow Trad 14m
317
VD *** Hollybush Crack Trad 14m

The clean crack in the right facing corner. The lower section is somewhat polished and is the crux while the upper section is a bit more juggy but still interesting. Good gear throughout.

FA: George Bower, 1926

318
E2 5b Straightsville Trad 15m
319
HVS 5a ** Queersville Trad 15m
320
E3 6a * The Nose Trad 15m
321
E2 5b * Yosemite Wall Trad 16m
322
E2 5b The El Cap Finish Trad
323
VS 4c Leaning Buttress Gully Trad 15m
324
VS 4c * Hangover Trad 16m
325
E4 6a The Old Bag's Head Trad 16m
326
HVS 5b * Leaning Buttress Direct Trad 16m
328

The long groove on the right side of the pillar. Good pro throughout.

Garden Wall Area

330
S Right On Trad 15m
331
E2 5c That Sad Man Trad 14m
332
HS 4a Garden Fence Trad 14m

FA: 2004

333
HVS 5b Space Junk Trad 14m
335
HVD * Garden Wall Trad 14m

Climb the crack to the narrow chimney and grunt past the chockstone

336
E1 5b Armchair Buccaneer Trad 14m
338
S Wild West Wind Trad 14m
339
D Scappy Corner Trad 13m

The Flying Buttress

340
E2 6b Mini Micro Trad 6m
341
E1 5b Little Sarah Trad 8m
342
VS 5a The Wedge Trad 14m
343
HVS 5c Heliotrope Trad 8m
344
S 4a Wedge Gully Trad 12m

S if lead over the capping block. VD if lead under and through the hole. Nice little route for those who like chimneys and bridging a lot.

345
VS 5a Wedge Rib Trad 14m
347
E1 5b ** Goodbye Toulouse Trad 18m
348
E1 5b *** Flying Buttress Direct Trad 16m
349
E3 5c * Flying Butt Trad 25m
350
E1 5b ** Kirkus's Corner Trad 16m
351
E4 5c Spasticus Artisticus Trad 10m

Tippler Buttress

352
S 4a * Jitterbug Buttress Trad 12m
353
VS 4c Malarete Trad
354
HVS 4c * The Kirkus Original Trad 12m
355
S ** Jitter Face Trad 13m
356
HVS 4c ** Townsend's Variation Trad 13m
357
M Cracking Eel Trad 5m

6m left of Malarete. the left pillar of the 3 pillars.side by side.

FA: Harvey Portier Age 8, 2011

358
E3 5c Anxiety Attack Trad 15m
359
E3 5c ** Censor Trad 15m
360
E4 6a The Cutting Room Floor Trad 15m
361
E1 5b ** The Unprintable Trad 16m
362
E2 5c *** The Dangler Trad 16m
363
E3 6a *** Tippler Direct Trad 16m
364
E6 6b ** Paranoid Trad 17m
365
E1 5b *** The Tippler Trad 20m
366
E6 6c ** The 9 o'clock Watershed Trad 15m
367
E6 6c * The Muted Trumper Trad 14m
368
VS 4b * The Y Crack Trad 18m
369
VS 4c * The Z Crack Trad 18m
370
E4 6b The Go Player Trad 8m

Castle Buttress

371
M ** Castle Chimney Trad 20m
372
VD * Black Hawk Tower Trad 24m
373
E1 5b The Famous Ed Wood Trad 20m
374
E6 6a ** Master of Disguise Trad 16m
375
E4 6a *** Chameleon Trad 16m
376
E3 6a ** Black Hawk Bastion Trad 16m
378
HVS 5b ** Eliminator Trad 15m
379
HS 4b * Castle Crack Trad 18m
380
HS 4c * Elliot's Eliminate Trad 17m
381
HS 4c * Black Hawk Trad 15m
382
HVS ** Prudence Trad
383
HVS 5b * Divine Providence Trad 16m
385
S 4a ** Burgess's Variation Trad 17m
386
E1 5c Providence Trad 15m
387
E6 6a * Tribute to Kitty Trad 15m
388
S 4a Black Hawk Hell Crack Trad 14m

Manchester Buttress Area

390
VS 4c Ugly Mugs Trad 15m
391
E3 6a Moriarty Trad 16m
392
6a V2 Bump Reader Boulder

Starts in a small cave that faces 'Higgar Tor', approx. 25m below 'Moriarty'.

393
HS 4b * Gargoyle Variant Trad
394
VS 4b * Gargoyle Buttress Trad 14m
395
E2 5b * Dry Rot Trad 13m
396
VD * Physiology Trad 13m
397
S Sociology Trad 13m
398
VD Anatomy Trad 13m

Climb the right hand corner moving awkwardly left at the overhang.

399
HS 4b Another Ology Trad 13m

A direct finish to 'Anatomy'. Follow the right-hand upper cracks.

400
VS 4c * Tinker's Crack Trad 13m
401
VS 5a Beggar's Crack Trad 13m
402
E2 5c Tip Off Trad 14m
403
E1 5b Tip Off Right Trad 14m
404
E4 6a Moss Side Trad 13m
405
HS 4b ** Manchester Buttress Trad 16m
406
HVS 5b Manchester United Trad

A variation of 'Manchester United'. Follow the face to the right of the initial crack before going direct to the high ledge.

407
S Tier Climb Trad 12m
408
VS 5a Two Tier Climb Trad 12m

Heather Butress

409
S 4b Cakestand Trad 9m

Climb the narrow buttress to a narrow ledge then finish up the rounded buttress to the top, or try the easier (VD) corner.

410
S Cool Groove Trad 10m

Climb the open groove to the crux, a bulge/overhang

411
HVS 5a * Lancashire Wall Trad 12m
412
S 4b ** Crack and Corner Trad 16m
413
E1 6a War Zone Trad
414
VS 4c ** Heather Wall Trad 14m
415
416
VS 5b Chimp's Corner Trad 12m
417
M Grotto Slab Trad 18m
418
E1 5a Jersey Boys Trad 14m
419
HVS 4c * Grotto Wall Trad 14m
420
E5 6a Reagent Trad 12m
421
VS 4b * Green Wall Trad 10m
422
D * Capstone Chimney Trad 10m
423
S 4b Little Ernie Trad 8m
424
E1 5b Big Chris Trad 10m
425
HVS 5a In Earnest Trad 10m
426
HVD Recess Wall Trad 10m
427
HVD Right Wall Route Trad 10m

Rugosity Crack Area

428
E3 6a Randolph Cheerleader Trad 10m
429
E1 5b * Gullible's Travels Trad 10m
430
E4 5c Al Trad 8m
431
E2 6a The 3-D Wall Trad 8m
432
D Black Chimney Trad 9m
433
HVS 5b * South Sea Charmer Trad 9m
434
HVS 5b ** Rugosity Crack Trad 9m
436
S 4b The Christiania Swing Trad 10m

The original route on this buttress. Starts up 'Niche Wall Direct' before finishing up 'Nicheless Climb'.

437
S 4b Nicheless Climb Trad 9m
438

Finish directly, staying right of the crack.

439
S Right Edge Trad 9m
440
VS 4b Hoaxer's Crack Trad 7m
442
VD Small Crack Trad 6m

Plate Glass Slab

443
HVS 4c * Ground Glass Trad 7m
444
VS 4c * Plate Glass Slab Trad 7m
445
VS 5a Carborundum Trad 7m
446
450
E2 5c Mental Peace Trad 8m
452
VS 5a Fragile Mantle Trad 7m
453
HVD Mantelpiece Right Trad 7m
454
M Zip Crack Trad 7m

Square Buttress Area

455
VD Button Wall Trad 6m
456
S Toggle Trad 8m
457
VD Velcro Arete Trad 6m
458
D Blizzard Chimney Trad 16m
459
S 4b Square Chimney Arete Trad 6m
460
M Square Chimney Trad 6m
461
VD Monkey Crack Trad 6m
462
HVS 5b Square Buttress Direct Trad 7m
463
VS 4c Square Buttress Arete Trad 6m
464
S 4a * Square Buttress Wall Trad 6m
466
VS 5a Gashed Knee Trad 7m
467
VS 5a Gashed Crack Trad 7m
468
HVS 5b Ding Dong Trad 8m

The grade drops to VS 5b if you use holds/protection on 'Gashed Crack'.

469
HVS 6a * Suzanne Trad 8m
470
6a V3 Finale Direct Boulder
471
HVS 5b Finale Trad 8m
472
HVS 5b Happy Hips Trad 8m

A variation on 'Finale' that stays to the right of the arete.

473
VD Fire Curtain Trad 8m