A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide.

For more information refer to our Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Lulworth 114 routes in Area

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Deep Water, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: -2.221172, 50.618019

Description:

Access to Lulworth for climbers is restricted, best to check the BMC website for the latest details.

Access Issues:

Access for climbers is prohibited in Lulworth. Check the BMC website for the latest information.

1.1. Durdle Door 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -2.274355, 50.621350

Approach:

A 10 minute walk from the car park and then you really need to abseil in.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Arcwelder {FR} 7b Sport
2 Riding to Babylon {FR} 7a+ Sport
3 They Call Me Tall Man {FR} 6b Sport
4 Unleash the Veins {FR} 7b+ Sport
5 Sardine Liberation Front {FR} 6c+ Sport

1.2. Dungy Head 16 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -2.259214, 50.618882

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pickpocket {FR} 5a Sport
2 Morris the Carnivore {FR} 6a+ Sport
3 Beavis and Butthead {FR} 6a Sport
4 Beers, Steers and Queers {FR} 6c+ Sport
5 Dungeons and Dragons {FR} 7a+ Sport
6 Shoes for my Friends {FR} 6a+ Sport
7 Lost Souls {FR} 6a+ Sport
8 Looking Through the Infinity Window {FR} 6c+ Sport
9 Closing Time {FR} 7a+ Sport
10 The Debt Collector {FR} 6b Sport
11 Wall of Feedback {FR} 6c+ Sport
12 Blow Me! {FR} 7a Sport
13 Blow Daddy-O {FR} 5c Trad
14 House Nation {FR} 6c Sport
15 Jugmaster Funk Meets M.C. Lane {FR} 6b Sport
16 Turn It On {FR} 7b Sport

1.3. Stair Hole West Cave 22 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Deep Water

Long/Lat: -2.252822, 50.617919

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Laws Traverse

FA: Pete Oxley, 1993

E1 6a DWS
2 Trashy's Arete VS 4c DWS
3 The Brotherhood E5 6b DWS
4 The Walkin' Dude E4 5c DWS
5 Skillfish E3 5b DWS
6 ** The Maypole

80m - Circular traverse of righthand pillar

HVS 5a to 5b DWS
7 Thieving Gypsy E5 6b DWS
8 Imp of the Perverse E6 6b DWS
9 Cheddar Direct VS 4c DWS
10 Truth, Justice and the Raggamuffin Way E2 5c DWS
11 Crazy Notion E5 6b DWS
12 *** Animal Magnetism

FA: Pete Oxley, 1992

{FR} 7a+ DWS 15m
13 Journey to Eternia 7c DWS
14 Never Kneel to Skeletor

FA: Pete Oxley, 1992

7c DWS
15 Never Kneel to an Eternity of Mediocracy FR:8a DWS
16 Hurbot the Turbot E4 6b DWS
17 Skullthugery E6 6b DWS
18 Gates of Greyskull

FA: Pete Oxley, 1992

7b DWS
19 Magnetic Gates 7c DWS
20 Magnetic Skulls E6 6b DWS
21 The Honorary Society of Self-Publicising Water Rats E4 6a DWS
22 Hairy Clamber VS 4c DWS

1.4. Inner West Cave 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Deep Water

Long/Lat: -2.252822, 50.617919

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Route 66 6a BLDS:S1 DWS
2 Escobar 7a DWS
3 Contortions 7a BLDS:S1 DWS
4 El Guapo 7b DWS
5 El Diablo Suelto 7c BLDS:S1 DWS
6 Old Timer's Club 7b BLDS:S1 DWS
7 Lower than Whale Shit 6c DWS
8 Last Season's Loozas 5a BLDS:S1 DWS

1.5. Stair Hole East Cave 28 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Deep Water

Long/Lat: -2.252822, 50.617919

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Captain Bastard Got There First E2 5c DWS
2 Despicable Terrier E3 6a DWS
3 Anarchy Stampede E3 6a DWS
4 Stagedivin'

FA: Pete Oxley, 1992

7a DWS
5 I Love Eszter E3 5c DWS
6 Window of Opportunity E5 6b DWS
7 Hornier Than Thou E6 6b DWS
8 Thieving Gypsy E5 6b DWS
9 Sliding Down the Banister

FA: Pete Oxley, 1992

E4 6a DWS
10 *** Horny Lil' Devil / Horny Lil Devil

FA: Pete Oxley, 1992

FR:7a DWS 12m
11 *** Adrenochrome

FA: Pete Oxley, 1992

FR:8a DWS
12 Lord of Darkness

FA: Pete Oxley, 1992

7c DWS
13 *** Mark of the Beast

FA: Pete Oxley, 1987

FR:7c DWS
14 *** Burn Hollywood Burn

FA: Pete Oxley, 1992

FR:8a DWS
15 *** Lulworth Arms Treaty

FA: Pete Oxley, 1987

FR:7b DWS
16 Freed from Desire

FA: Pete Oxley, 1992

7a DWS
17 Grimly Fiendish

FA: Pete Oxley, 1987

7a DWS
18 Pump up the Beast E7 6b DWS
19 Windowchrome E7 6c DWS
20 Stage Fright

FA: Pete Oxley, 2000

7b DWS
21 Centre Stage

FA: Pete Oxley, 1990

7b DWS
22 Z-Cars E6 6b DWS
23 The Beast of Lulworth

FA: Pete Oxley, 2000

7c Sport
24 The Beast Goes East 7c DWS
25 Taming the Beast 7b DWS
26 Beast Club

FA: Pete Oxley, 1992

7c Sport
27 Burning Arms

FA: Pete Oxley, 1992

7c Sport
28 The Roof Predator

FA: Pete Oxley, 1992

7c Sport

1.6. Mojo-Pin Area 11 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: -2.241857, 50.616333

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Stalinist Regime HVS 5a Unknown
2 Southern Stutter E1 5a Unknown
3 The Poet and the Thief VS 4b Unknown
4 Mojo-Pin VS 4a Unknown
5 Mansion Pond E2 5b Unknown
6 Mankini Biscuit E2 5c Unknown
7 4 Years, 5 Months and 15 Days and Still Missing You... E2 5c Unknown
8 Fear of Litigation E1 5b Unknown
9 Extraordinary Rendition E1 5c Unknown
10 Hyperbole HVS 5a Unknown
11 MC Hammer VS 4c Unknown

1.7. Il Pirata Area 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: -2.238695, 50.616319

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Too Driven HS Unknown
2 Pussy Galore VS 4c Unknown
3 Bad to the Bone 7b Unknown
4 Il Pirata 7c Unknown
5 Jurrasic Coast Pimps E1 5b Unknown
6 Svengali E3 6a Unknown
7 Bolt Free VS 4c Unknown
8 Carbon Footprint HVS 5b Unknown
9 The Gift HVS 5b Unknown
10 Dry Your Eyes Mate 7c Unknown
11 Jay Kay Unknown

1.8. Amphitheatre Roofs 13 routes in Unknown

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: -2.235719, 50.616344

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Lemon Express 7b Unknown
2 Breathe the Pressure 7b Unknown
3 Ramases Cubed 7b Unknown
4 Granny Lifts Car 7b Unknown
5 Let Ya Bones Hang 7a Unknown
6 Rigor Mortise 7a Unknown
7 A Storm in Heaven 7c Unknown
8 Eye of the Storm 7b Unknown
9 Language of Nature 7b Unknown
10 Weld's Mother 4c Unknown
11 Monolith Monsters 7b Unknown
12 Mirrorball 7c Unknown
13 Shining Path 7a Unknown

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
HS Too Driven Unknown 1.7. Il Pirata Area
5a Pickpocket Sport 1.2. Dungy Head
4c Weld's Mother Unknown 1.8. Amphitheatre Roofs
VS 4a Mojo-Pin Unknown 1.6. Mojo-Pin Area
VS 4b The Poet and the Thief Unknown 1.6. Mojo-Pin Area
VS 4c Cheddar Direct DWS 1.3. Stair Hole West Cave
Hairy Clamber DWS 1.3. Stair Hole West Cave
Trashy's Arete DWS 1.3. Stair Hole West Cave
MC Hammer Unknown 1.6. Mojo-Pin Area
Bolt Free Unknown 1.7. Il Pirata Area
Pussy Galore Unknown 1.7. Il Pirata Area
5c Blow Daddy-O Trad 1.2. Dungy Head
HVS 5a Hyperbole Unknown 1.6. Mojo-Pin Area
Stalinist Regime Unknown 1.6. Mojo-Pin Area
6a Beavis and Butthead Sport 1.2. Dungy Head
6a+ Lost Souls Sport 1.2. Dungy Head
Morris the Carnivore Sport 1.2. Dungy Head
Shoes for my Friends Sport 1.2. Dungy Head
5a S1 Last Season's Loozas DWS 1.4. Inner West Cave
E1 5a Southern Stutter Unknown 1.6. Mojo-Pin Area
6b They Call Me Tall Man Sport 1.1. Durdle Door
Jugmaster Funk Meets M.C. Lane Sport 1.2. Dungy Head
The Debt Collector Sport 1.2. Dungy Head
HVS 5a to 5b ** The Maypole DWS 1.3. Stair Hole West Cave
HVS 5b Carbon Footprint Unknown 1.7. Il Pirata Area
The Gift Unknown 1.7. Il Pirata Area
E1 5b Fear of Litigation Unknown 1.6. Mojo-Pin Area
Jurrasic Coast Pimps Unknown 1.7. Il Pirata Area
E2 5b Mansion Pond Unknown 1.6. Mojo-Pin Area
6c House Nation Sport 1.2. Dungy Head
E1 5c Extraordinary Rendition Unknown 1.6. Mojo-Pin Area
E2 5c Truth, Justice and the Raggamuffin Way DWS 1.3. Stair Hole West Cave
Captain Bastard Got There First DWS 1.5. Stair Hole East Cave
4 Years, 5 Months and 15 Days and Still Missing You... Unknown 1.6. Mojo-Pin Area
Mankini Biscuit Unknown 1.6. Mojo-Pin Area
6c+ Sardine Liberation Front Sport 1.1. Durdle Door
Beers, Steers and Queers Sport 1.2. Dungy Head
Looking Through the Infinity Window Sport 1.2. Dungy Head
Wall of Feedback Sport 1.2. Dungy Head
E3 5b Skillfish DWS 1.3. Stair Hole West Cave
E3 5c I Love Eszter DWS 1.5. Stair Hole East Cave
7a Blow Me! Sport 1.2. Dungy Head
E1 6a The Laws Traverse DWS 1.3. Stair Hole West Cave
6a S1 Route 66 DWS 1.4. Inner West Cave
E4 5c The Walkin' Dude DWS 1.3. Stair Hole West Cave
E3 6a Anarchy Stampede DWS 1.5. Stair Hole East Cave
Despicable Terrier DWS 1.5. Stair Hole East Cave
Svengali Unknown 1.7. Il Pirata Area
E4 6a The Honorary Society of Self-Publicising Water Rats DWS 1.3. Stair Hole West Cave
Sliding Down the Banister DWS 1.5. Stair Hole East Cave
7a+ Riding to Babylon Sport 1.1. Durdle Door
Closing Time Sport 1.2. Dungy Head
Dungeons and Dragons Sport 1.2. Dungy Head
*** Animal Magnetism DWS 15m 1.3. Stair Hole West Cave
7b Arcwelder Sport 1.1. Durdle Door
Turn It On Sport 1.2. Dungy Head
7b+ Unleash the Veins Sport 1.1. Durdle Door
E4 6b Hurbot the Turbot DWS 1.3. Stair Hole West Cave
E5 6b Crazy Notion DWS 1.3. Stair Hole West Cave
The Brotherhood DWS 1.3. Stair Hole West Cave
Thieving Gypsy DWS 1.3. Stair Hole West Cave
Thieving Gypsy DWS 1.5. Stair Hole East Cave
Window of Opportunity DWS 1.5. Stair Hole East Cave
E6 6b Imp of the Perverse DWS 1.3. Stair Hole West Cave
Magnetic Skulls DWS 1.3. Stair Hole West Cave
Skullthugery DWS 1.3. Stair Hole West Cave
Hornier Than Thou DWS 1.5. Stair Hole East Cave
Z-Cars DWS 1.5. Stair Hole East Cave
8a Never Kneel to an Eternity of Mediocracy DWS 1.3. Stair Hole West Cave
*** Adrenochrome DWS 1.5. Stair Hole East Cave
*** Burn Hollywood Burn DWS 1.5. Stair Hole East Cave
6c Lower than Whale Shit DWS 1.4. Inner West Cave
E7 6b Pump up the Beast DWS 1.5. Stair Hole East Cave
E7 6c Windowchrome DWS 1.5. Stair Hole East Cave
7a S1 Contortions DWS 1.4. Inner West Cave
7a *** Horny Lil' Devil DWS 12m 1.5. Stair Hole East Cave
Escobar DWS 1.4. Inner West Cave
Freed from Desire DWS 1.5. Stair Hole East Cave
Grimly Fiendish DWS 1.5. Stair Hole East Cave
Stagedivin' DWS 1.5. Stair Hole East Cave
Let Ya Bones Hang Unknown 1.8. Amphitheatre Roofs
Rigor Mortise Unknown 1.8. Amphitheatre Roofs
Shining Path Unknown 1.8. Amphitheatre Roofs
7b S1 Old Timer's Club DWS 1.4. Inner West Cave
7b *** Lulworth Arms Treaty DWS 1.5. Stair Hole East Cave
Gates of Greyskull DWS 1.3. Stair Hole West Cave
El Guapo DWS 1.4. Inner West Cave
Centre Stage DWS 1.5. Stair Hole East Cave
Stage Fright DWS 1.5. Stair Hole East Cave
Taming the Beast DWS 1.5. Stair Hole East Cave
Bad to the Bone Unknown 1.7. Il Pirata Area
Breathe the Pressure Unknown 1.8. Amphitheatre Roofs
Eye of the Storm Unknown 1.8. Amphitheatre Roofs
Granny Lifts Car Unknown 1.8. Amphitheatre Roofs
Language of Nature Unknown 1.8. Amphitheatre Roofs
Monolith Monsters Unknown 1.8. Amphitheatre Roofs
Ramases Cubed Unknown 1.8. Amphitheatre Roofs
The Lemon Express Unknown 1.8. Amphitheatre Roofs
7c S1 El Diablo Suelto DWS 1.4. Inner West Cave
7c *** Mark of the Beast DWS 1.5. Stair Hole East Cave
Journey to Eternia DWS 1.3. Stair Hole West Cave
Magnetic Gates DWS 1.3. Stair Hole West Cave
Never Kneel to Skeletor DWS 1.3. Stair Hole West Cave
Beast Club Sport 1.5. Stair Hole East Cave
Burning Arms Sport 1.5. Stair Hole East Cave
Lord of Darkness DWS 1.5. Stair Hole East Cave
The Beast Goes East DWS 1.5. Stair Hole East Cave
The Beast of Lulworth Sport 1.5. Stair Hole East Cave
The Roof Predator Sport 1.5. Stair Hole East Cave
Dry Your Eyes Mate Unknown 1.7. Il Pirata Area
Il Pirata Unknown 1.7. Il Pirata Area
A Storm in Heaven Unknown 1.8. Amphitheatre Roofs
Mirrorball Unknown 1.8. Amphitheatre Roofs
? Jay Kay Unknown 1.7. Il Pirata Area