Subluminal Cliff Mostly climbing

21 routes in crag

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Description

Subluminal is the place everybody heads to for a first taste of Swanage steepness. The main reason for its popularity is the good selection of solid, short and amenably graded routes. Access is quick and there is a good ledge system running beneath the climbs that is well clear of the waves giving the place a friendly atmosphere. It lies just west of the lighthouse and the Black Zawn beneath open grass slopes. There is a clean-cut ledge above the climbs for gearing up and socialising, along with plentiful stakes for belays. Many of the climbs offer technical and fingery exercises as well as some bulging test-pieces in the Avernus Area.

Approach

Park at Durleston Country Park (£5 per day) and walk down the nearby path towards the lighthouse. Subliminal can be found by walking straight ahead towards the sea to the right of the lighthouse.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
VD Thompson Chimney Unknown
2
VS Botany Bay Unknown
3
VS Battleship Bow Unknown
4
VS Skin Head Unknown
5
S S Birds Nest Unknown
6
S * First Corner Unknown
7
S 4a S * Second Corner Unknown 10m
8
VS 5a *** Freda Unknown 10m
9
HVS Tangerine Dream Unknown
10
HS * Balcony Unknown
11
E1 5c stroof Unknown
12
VS Back Street Unknown
13
S S * Bypass Trad

Engaging, varied and well protected. Climb direct up the rounded rib to a prominent left-facing layback flake.

14
S 4a Suspension Unknown 10m
15
VS 4c Grandpas Grope Unknown 10m

FA: Tim Dunsby, 1971

16
D Pedestal Crack Trad 10m

Eastern descent or escape route

17
D High Street Trad 10m

A good route for first trad lead

18
UK VD Scotsmans chimney Unknown 20m
19
4a * Face Unknown 10m
20
US VS VS Central Face Unknown 15m
21
UK HS Dolphin Unknown 15m

Open trips

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