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Description

Subluminal is the place everybody heads to for a first taste of Swanage steepness. The main reason for its popularity is the good selection of solid, short and amenably graded routes. Access is quick and there is a good ledge system running beneath the climbs that is well clear of the waves giving the place a friendly atmosphere. It lies just west of the lighthouse and the Black Zawn beneath open grass slopes. There is a clean-cut ledge above the climbs for gearing up and socialising, along with plentiful stakes for belays. Many of the climbs offer technical and fingery exercises as well as some bulging test-pieces in the Avernus Area.

Approach

Park at Durleston Country Park (£5 per day) and walk down the nearby path towards the lighthouse. Subliminal can be found by walking straight ahead towards the sea to the right of the lighthouse.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
HVS 5a Via Christina Trad 15m

FA: K. Cartwrite, 1966

2
E5 6b Dead Good Trad 15m

FA: Steve Taylor & Mike Robertson, 1992

3
VD Greasy Chimney Trad 9m
4
S 4a Suspension Trad 10m
5
HS 4b Why not Trad

FA: G. Foster & J. Ross, 1990

6
VS 4b Dolphin Trad 15m
7
S 4a Curving Crack Trad 15m
8
S 4a * Face Trad 10m
9
VS 4c VS Face Central Trad 15m
10
VS 4c Face away Trad
11
HVS 5a Tittsworth Trad 15m

FA: Jim Titt & W. Wheeler, 1976

12
E1 5b Dead Man Hunt Trad 15m

FA: Jim Titt, 1976

13
VS 4b Baboon Trad
14
E1 5b The Grobbler Trad 15m

FA: Tony Wilmott, 1965

15
HVS 5a Transcript Direct Trad 15m
16
E2 5c Paralysis Trad 15m

FA: Tony Wilmott, 1965

Stroof Area

17
HS 4b * Balcony Trad 10m
18
S 4a * Gangway Trad 15m

A fun route that swallows small nuts. Getting established on the wall takes a bit of effort. Once on follow the rightward trending ramp. Exit directly before the climbing gets too hard.

19
VS 5a Joker Trad 15m

FA: A. Blakely, 1988

20
E1 5b Juggler Trad 15m

FA: Juggler, 1970

21
E1 5c * Stroof Trad
22
E1 5b Graunchey Grippers Trad 15m

FA: Kevin Turner, 1977

23
VS 5a Spreadeagle Trad 10m
24
VS 4c Back Street Trad
25
D High Street Trad 10m

A good route for first trad lead

26
HS 4b Station Road Trad 15m

FA: Jim Titt & Frank Farrell, 1976

27
S 4b S * Bypass Trad

Engaging, varied and well protected. Climb direct up the rounded rib to a prominent left-facing layback flake.

28
VS 4b Slip Road Trad
29
E2 6a Republic Trad 15m

FA: Scott Titt & Nigel Coe, 1992

30
HS 4b Thompson Chimney Trad
31
E3 6a Straights of Hormuz Trad 16m

FA: Pete Oxley, Brian Tilley & Steve Williams, 1987

32
VS 4c Botany Bay Trad
33
HVS 4c Battleship Bow Trad
34
HVD Double Chockstone Trad 9m
35
HVS 5a Skin Head Trad

FA: M. Hunt & A. Gilbert, 1977

36
S 4a S Birds Nest Trad
37
VS 5a Puffin Trad

FA: R. C. White, 1965

38
E1 5b The Indirect Route Trad 16m

FA: Jim Titt & Scott Titt, 1976

39
S 4b First Corner Trad 9m
40
E3 5c Philatus Trad 16m

FA: Tony Wilmott, 1965

41
E3 6a Poetry in Motion Trad 16m

FA: Pete Oxley, 1984

42
S 4a S * Second Corner Trad 10m
43
VS 5a ** Freda Trad 16m
44
E2 5c Grandma's Groove Trad 16m

FA: Tony Wilmott, 1965

45
VS 4c Grandpas Grope Trad 10m

FA: Tim Dunsby, 1971

46
D Pedestal Crack Trad 10m

Eastern descent or escape route

47
VS 4b Pedestal Face Trad 16m
48
VD Pedestal Chimney Trad 16m

Avernus Area

49
S 4a Avernus Trad
50

Lighthouse Cliff

51
UK VD Scotsmans chimney Trad 20m

Open trips

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