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Subluminal Cliff 21 routes in Crag

  • Avg. Height: 12m
  • Style: Mostly Unknown
  • Approach time: 10 Minutes
  • Ascents: 65

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Description:

Subluminal is the place everybody heads to for a first taste of Swanage steepness. The main reason for its popularity is the good selection of solid, short and amenably graded routes. Access is quick and there is a good ledge system running beneath the climbs that is well clear of the waves giving the place a friendly atmosphere. It lies just west of the lighthouse and the Black Zawn beneath open grass slopes. There is a clean-cut ledge above the climbs for gearing up and socialising, along with plentiful stakes for belays. Many of the climbs offer technical and fingery exercises as well as some bulging test-pieces in the Avernus Area.

Approach:

Park at Durleston Country Park (£5 per day) and walk down the nearby path towards the lighthouse. Subliminal can be found by walking straight ahead towards the sea to the right of the lighthouse.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Thompson Chimney
VD
Unknown
2 Botany Bay
VS
Unknown
3 Battleship Bow
VS
Unknown
4 Skin Head
VS
Unknown
5 Birds Nest
S S
Unknown
6 * First Corner
S
Unknown
7 * Second Corner
S 4a S
Unknown 10m
8 *** Freda
VS 5a
Unknown 10m
9 Tangerine Dream
HVS
Unknown
10 Balcony
HS
Unknown
11 stroof
E1 5c
Unknown
12 Back Street
VS
Unknown
13 * Bypass

Engaging, varied and well protected. Climb direct up the rounded rib to a prominent left-facing layback flake.

S S
Trad
14 Suspension
S 4a
Unknown 10m
15 Grandpas Grope

FA: Tim Dunsby, 1971

VS 4c
Unknown 10m
16 Pedestal Crack

Eastern descent or escape route

D
Trad 10m
17 High Street

A good route for first trad lead

D
Trad 10m
18 Scotsmans chimney
VD
Unknown 20m
19 * Face
4a
Unknown 10m
20 Central Face
VS VS
Unknown 15m
21 Dolphin
HS
Unknown 15m

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