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Summary

Sheltered short sandstone with several short routes and some excellent hard bouldering

Description

A short walk from the car park at Powillimount, this crag provides an excellent location for bouldering in the central cave. It is also home to some pleasant lead climbs and has a convenient tree for setting up top ropes

Access issues

No access issues, but the local estate has a sign saying no overnight camping in the car park.

Approach

Travelling from Dumfries/New Abbey, turn off the A710 south of Kirkbean towards Southerness, then turn L (signposted Arbigland 1 1/2), follow this road past where it turns sharply left for about 200 yards to a sign that says John Paul Jones cottage straight on. At this point turn right and follow the road all the way to the beach, passing signs about no overnight parking. At the end of the road, turn left and park at the north end of the car park. Walk north along the beach for less than five minutes to reach the crag.

Where to stay

Plenty of rental cottages locally or the caravan parks at Southerness or the caravan/camping site at Sandyhills, where there is also good bouldering.

Ethic

No bolts. All climbs have either been led or soloed. For the harder climbs a top rope can be easily set up.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
VD *** Left Arete Trad 9m
2
E2 5c ** Godnight Irene Trad 10m
3
E4 6b ** Thankyou Irene Trad 9m
4
S Cave Route Trad 14m
5
MVS 4b * Zig-Zag Trad 12m
6
MS Catechumen Groove Trad 10m
7
HVS 5b The Overhang Trad 10m
8
D The Ramp Trad 10m
9
10
HVS 5a Short and Curly Trad 8m
11
VD Rough Buttress Trad 7m

Activity

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