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Description

The climbs around the classic Hangover buttress and Long-layback climb.

Access issues inherited from Harrison's Rocks

Harrison's Rocks is owned by climbers and is managed on their behalf by the British Mountaineering Council with funding from the English Sports Council. Please leave a donation at the car park charity box. If approaching forma the train station, do not trespass the private property to get to zig-zag wall, instead follow the path to the left.

Ethic inherited from Harrison's Rocks

The Sandstone is very soft -- leading is not allowed. Most climbs are top-roped, and ropes should be extended over the edge and set up in a way such as to minimize the wear on the rock. Top-out and down-climb is preferred to lowering. Abseiling is, also, forbidden.

More details: https://www.thebmc.co.uk/southern-sandstone-guidelines https://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmcNews/media/u_content/File/access_conservation/access_publications/Sandstone%20Code%20of%20Practice.pdf

Routes

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Grade Route

Climb the arete, starting on the left side, but using either side as needed.

Not a slab climb at all, of course.

Climb the crack and edge up the left side of the triangular slab.

Step onto the large foothold, then go directly up on slopers.

Start on the right edge of the wall, climb up to the horizontal break, then step left, and finish (more easily) up the crack.

Climb Celestial's Reach to the break, then move right and pull over the bulge to finish up a shallow groove.

THE route on which to look impressive at Harrison's.

Climb long layback to the big shelf, traverse left, then stop and have lunch. Finish up cracks above.

Lay-back up the crack in the corner. There's a tree-root at the base of the crack, and the start is somewhat polished.

Climbs up the thin crack just right of Long Layback. Holds on Long Layback are out.

Pull into the niche at the start as per "Flakes Direct", then move up and right on thin flakes to the roof. Hand-traverse right, then up the crack up and left.

Climb the the thin crack up the middle of the wall, then finish up the same diagonal crack as "The Flakes"

Climb the wall between "Coronation Crack" and "The Limpet"

Climb the face and arete left of "Dark Chimney".

Climb "Dark Chimney" to the high-level break, then traverse to leftwards, finishing up "Long Layback".

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