Route as unknown in South Wales

16m, 6b. From the base of the rift reach and follow jugs left to the arête at the foot of the crack (a sling flicked onto a spike protects the start). Power up the crack to massive holds over the lip. Scramble 6m to belay at the base of the inset headwall. Almost as hard as Undercut Crack at Bamford.

15m, 5b. Climb totally direct up the fawn coloured leaning wall to a ledge at 5m. Continue straight up, keeping about 2-3m right of a broken black crackline to easier ground and a belay in the niche. Traverse right and climb down the ledge to the usual descent.