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Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Black Wall Direct
HVS 5b
Unknown 8m
2 * Black Wall
VS 5a
Unknown 10m
3 * Blackpool Promenade
E1 5b
Unknown 20m
4 *** Black Wall Eliminate
E2 5c
Unknown 15m
5 Blackhead
E4 6c
Unknown 10m
6 ** 'Arries' Ook
E4 6a
Unknown 13m
7 'Arries' Ook Direct
6c
Unknown 13m
8 Kitson Did It First
E3 6b
Unknown 10m
9 *** Birdlime Traverse
HVS 5a
Unknown 19m
10 ** South Wall Traverse
VS 4c
Unknown 13m
11 South Wall Direct
E1 5b
Unknown 11m
12 * South Face Climb

Pre 1912.

MVS 4c
Unknown 12m
13 South Chimney
D
Unknown 11m
14 * Yellow Wall
E2 5c
Unknown 14m
15 Yellow Peril
E4 6a
Unknown 12m
16 * South Chimney Layback
S 4b
Unknown 15m
17 Shuffle Crack
E1 5c
Unknown 12m
18 China Syndrome
E5 7a
Unknown 12m
19 Fence Butress
VS 5b
Unknown 11m
20 Stomach Traverse

Strenuous. Takes the undercut hand crack that sadly widens above. Once established above the undercut section, the climbing eases. Finish up slightly right for maximum enjoyment. The climb got its name from starting up the lefthand crack and then traversing across on the big ledge.

VS 4c
Unknown 12m
21 Jacob's Ladder
HVS 5b
Unknown 11m
22 Central Crack
HS 4b
Unknown 11m
23 * Rectum Rift
E3 6b
Unknown 10m
24 *** The Crucifix

One of Almscliff's more famous problems. It takes the inverted cross round the LH end of the wall containing Central Crack

5c
Unknown 5m
25 Crack and Wall
HS 4b
Unknown 12m
26 Acetabulum
E1 5c
Unknown 11m
27 Three Chockstones Chimney
E
Unknown 10m
28 * Dolphinian
E1 5b
Unknown 10m
29 *** Demon Wall
HVS 5a
Unknown 10m
30 * Bird's Nest Variation
MVS 4c
Unknown 10m
31 ** Bird's Nest Crack

Put up pre 1900. Straight up the crack, move right to grab the strange protruberance and up again. Becoming more and more polished.

FA: Herbert Ingle and Edward Calvert.,

HS 4b
Unknown 10m
32 Forgotten Wall
E5 6c
Unknown 10m
33 ** The Traditional Climb
VS 4c
Unknown 10m
34 * Traditional Eliminate
HVS 6a
Unknown 10m
35 * Pothole Direct
VS 5b
Unknown 10m
36 The Pothole
VD
Unknown 13m
37 * Thompson's Traverse
HVS 5b
Unknown 18m
38 * High Level Traverse
VS 4c
Unknown 15m
39 Tight Chimney
M
Unknown 8m
40 * Rift Crack
VS 5a
Unknown 7m
41 Daisy Chain
E3 6b
Unknown 8m
42 * Oublette
E2 6a
Unknown 8m
43 * Clematis
E2 5c
Unknown 10m
44 Hobgoblin
E2 5c
Unknown 10m
45 ** The Goblin
HS 4b
Unknown 11m
46 * Orchrist
E5 6b
Unknown 11m
47 Bancroft's Roof
E2 6b
Unknown 9m
48 * The Zig Zag

Pre 1912.

HS 4b
Unknown 11m
49 * Zig Zag Direct
VS 4c
Unknown 11m
50 ** Syrett's Roof
E3 6b
Unknown
51 The Nose Direct
HVS 5b
Unknown 9m
52 The Nose

Pre 1912. Described as "fancy gymnastics" by the Yorkshire Ramblers President Claude Benson.

VS 4c
Unknown 9m
53 West Chimney Rib
HVS 5b
Unknown 6m
54 West Chimney Rib L/H Finish
VS 4c
Unknown 6m
55 West Chimney
M
Unknown 11m
56 Jess's Roof
7a
Unknown 8m
57 Retribution Rib
E2 5b
Unknown 11m
58 ** Retribution Rib Direct
E5 5c
Unknown 10m
59 ** Crack of Doom

Up the corner crack to the overhang and follow the rightward traverse . Good holds to finish.

FA: Arthur Dolphin & Robert Heap. 30/8/41,

VS 4c
Unknown 11m
60 * Impending Doom
E4 6a
Unknown 12m
61 ** Megadoom
E5 6b
Unknown 12m
62 *** Great Western

A 4 star route in the guide. Climb 'Crack of Doom' to the roof, then traverse leftwards to a hard pull into a rest in the niche. Finish either direct or up right via 'The Five Star Finish'. Is generally considered THE best climb on grit, some disagree.

FA: Arthur Dolphin, Robert Heap. 19/09/43.,

HVS 5a
Unknown 15m
63 * No Mans Land
E2 5b
Unknown 20m
64 *** Grand Illusion
E4 5c
Unknown 13m
65 *** Western Front

FA: A Austin (solo),

E3 5c
Unknown 14m
66 Leaf Climb
VD
Unknown 20m
67 Everyman Has His Niche
E4 6b
Unknown 16m
68 ** The Ems Telegram
E5 6b
Unknown 20m
69 *** The Wall of Horrors

Boulder problem start, then Friend 4 or Hex 11 for the vertical crack and another large friend in the horizontal break to protect the top moves

FA: Allan Austin (solo); A Austin (solo), 1961

E3 6a
Unknown 18m
70 ** All Quiet
E4 6a
Unknown 28m
71 ** Long Chimney

Originally known as 'The Great Chimney'. Well polished chimney. Climbed direct, but better and more exposed to go out to the left near the top.

FA: Herbert Ingle & Thomas Gray. 1893.,

HVD
Unknown 18m
72 The Easy Way
M
Unknown 8m
73 * Pulpit Corner
E1 5b
Unknown 18m
74 Al Says 6a
E4 6b
Unknown 8m
75 Fat Man's Misery
S
Unknown 8m
76 *** Frankland's Green Crack

Put up in 1919. Possibly the best known climb at Almscliff, along with Great Western. Follow the green crack to a small ledge below the overhang. Step right and pull up into the upper crack. The final overhang keeps things interesting.

FA: Claude Dean Frankland,

VS 4c
Unknown 18m
77 Merlin
E3 5c
Unknown 14m
78 *** The Big Greeny
E3 6a
Unknown 14m
79 Fungus The Bogeyman
E4 6a
Unknown 16m
80 *** Parsons' Chimney

Put up circa 1900! Climb the overhanging V corner directly to the cave. Chimney up from there with increasing exposure to exit outwards on good holds. A vintage classic, as the guide book says.

FA: William Parsons,

HS 4b
Unknown 17m
81 *** Overhanging Groove
HVS 5a
Unknown 17m
82 ** Central Climb
VS 4c
Unknown 15m
83 WASC
E3 6a
Unknown 15m
84 ** Z Climb
VS 4c
Unknown 15m
85 *** Z Climb Eliminate
E1 5b
Unknown 14m
86 Why Climb
E3 6a
Unknown 10m
87 Cup and Saucer
VD
Unknown 13m
88 First Night
E2 6a
Unknown 10m
89 * Encore
E2 5c
Unknown 10m
90 ** Finale Slab
HVS 5b
Unknown 13m
91 Penny Pip
E4 6a
Unknown 11m
92 Exit Stage Left
E4 6b
Unknown 11m
93 ** All Our Yesterdays
E5 6a
Unknown 16m
94 * Twelfth Night
E2 5c
Unknown 15m
95 The True Two Ton Sardine
E3 6a
Unknown 10m
96 * Fisher's Traverse
S 4b
Unknown 16m
97 *** North West Girdle
E1 5b
Unknown 65m
98 Lovat Strides

FA: Jamie Moss, 2002

S
Unknown 6m
99 Tudor Rose

FA: Matthew Kilner, 2001

HS
Unknown 6m
100 Green Gully Left Arete

FA: Jamie Moss, 2001

S
Unknown 5m
101 Corner Crack
D
Unknown 7m
102 Green Wall
S
Unknown 8m
103 Lichen Wall
S
Unknown 7m
104 * Green Gully Wall
HVS 5a
Unknown 8m
105 Green Gully Rib
VS 4c
Unknown 7m
106 The Final Finale
HVD 5a
Unknown 20m
107 Constipation Crack
VS 5a
Unknown
108 Eastern Exit
VS 5a
Unknown

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