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Routes

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Grade Route
1
HVS 5b Black Wall Direct Trad 8m
2
VS 5a * Black Wall Trad 10m
3
E1 5b * Blackpool Promenade Trad 20m
4
E2 5c *** Black Wall Eliminate Trad 15m
5
E4 6c Blackhead Trad 10m
6
E4 6a ** 'Arries' Ook Trad 13m
7
8
E3 6b Kitson Did It First Trad 10m
9
HVS 5a *** Birdlime Traverse Trad 19m
10
VS 4c * South Wall Traverse Trad 13m
11
E1 5b South Wall Direct Trad 11m
12
MVS 4c * South Face Climb Trad 12m

Pre 1912.

13
D South Chimney Trad 11m
14
E2 5c * Yellow Wall Trad 14m
15
E4 6a Yellow Peril Trad 12m
16
S 4b * South Chimney Layback Trad 15m
17
E1 5c Shuffle Crack Trad 12m
18
E5 7a China Syndrome Trad 12m
19
VS 5b Fence Butress Trad 11m
20
VS 4c Stomach Traverse Trad 12m

Strenuous. Takes the undercut hand crack that sadly widens above. Once established above the undercut section, the climbing eases. Finish up slightly right for maximum enjoyment. The climb got its name from starting up the lefthand crack and then traversing across on the big ledge.

21
HVS 5b Jacob's Ladder Trad 11m
22
HS 4b Central Crack Trad 11m
23
E3 6b * Rectum Rift Trad 10m
24
5c *** The Crucifix Trad 5m

One of Almscliff's more famous problems. It takes the inverted cross round the LH end of the wall containing Central Crack

25
HS 4b Crack and Wall Trad 12m
26
E1 5c Acetabulum Trad 11m
28
E1 5b * Dolphinian Trad 10m
29
HVS 5a *** Demon Wall Trad 10m
30
MVS 4c * Bird's Nest Variation Trad 10m
31
HS 4b ** Bird's Nest Crack Trad 10m

Put up pre 1900. Straight up the crack, move right to grab the strange protruberance and up again. Becoming more and more polished.

FA: Herbert Ingle and Edward Calvert.

32
E5 6c Forgotten Wall Trad 10m
33
VS 4c ** The Traditional Climb Trad 10m
34
HVS 6a * Traditional Eliminate Trad 10m
35
VS 5b * Pothole Direct Trad 10m
36
VD The Pothole Trad 13m
37
HVS 5b * Thompson's Traverse Trad 18m
38
VS 4c * High Level Traverse Trad 15m
39
M Tight Chimney Trad 8m
40
VS 5a * Rift Crack Trad 7m
41
E3 6b Daisy Chain Trad 8m
42
E2 6a * Oublette Trad 8m
43
E2 5c * Clematis Trad 10m
44
E2 5c Hobgoblin Trad 10m
45
HS 4b ** The Goblin Trad 11m
46
E5 6b * Orchrist Trad 11m
47
E2 6b Bancroft's Roof Trad 9m
48
HS 4b * The Zig Zag Trad 11m

Pre 1912.

49
VS 4c Zig Zag Direct Trad 11m
50
E3 6b ** Syrett's Roof Trad
51
HVS 5b The Nose Direct Trad 9m
52
VS 4c The Nose Trad 9m

Pre 1912. Described as "fancy gymnastics" by the Yorkshire Ramblers President Claude Benson.

53
HVS 5b West Chimney Rib Trad 6m
55
M West Chimney Trad 11m
56
7a Jess's Roof Trad 8m
57
E2 5b Retribution Rib Trad 11m
58
E5 5c ** Retribution Rib Direct Trad 10m
59
VS 4c ** Crack of Doom Trad 11m

Up the corner crack to the overhang and follow the rightward traverse . Good holds to finish.

FA: Arthur Dolphin & Robert Heap. 30/8/41

60
E4 6a * Impending Doom Trad 12m
61
E5 6b ** Megadoom Trad 12m
62
HVS 5a *** Great Western Trad 15m

A 4 star route in the guide. Climb 'Crack of Doom' to the roof, then traverse leftwards to a hard pull into a rest in the niche. Finish either direct or up right via 'The Five Star Finish'. Is generally considered THE best climb on grit, some disagree.

FA: Arthur Dolphin, Robert Heap. 19/09/43.

63
E2 5b * No Mans Land Trad 20m
64
E4 5c *** Grand Illusion Trad 13m
65
E3 5c *** Western Front Trad 14m

FA: A Austin (solo)

66
VD Leaf Climb Trad 20m
67
E4 6b Everyman Has His Niche Trad 16m
68
E5 6b ** The Ems Telegram Trad 20m
69
E3 6a *** The Wall of Horrors Trad 18m

Boulder problem start, then Friend 4 or Hex 11 for the vertical crack and another large friend in the horizontal break to protect the top moves

FA: Allan Austin (solo); A Austin (solo), 28th Jun

70
E4 6a ** All Quiet Trad 28m
71
HVD ** Long Chimney Trad 18m

Originally known as 'The Great Chimney'. Well polished chimney. Climbed direct, but better and more exposed to go out to the left near the top.

FA: Herbert Ingle & Thomas Gray. 1893.

72
M The Easy Way Trad 8m
73
E1 5b * Pulpit Corner Trad 18m
74
E4 6b Al Says 6a Trad 8m
75
76
VS 4c *** Frankland's Green Crack Trad 18m

Put up in 1919. Possibly the best known climb at Almscliff, along with Great Western. Follow the green crack to a small ledge below the overhang. Step right and pull up into the upper crack. The final overhang keeps things interesting.

FA: Claude Dean Frankland

77
E3 5c Merlin Trad 14m
78
E3 6a *** The Big Greeny Trad 14m
79
E4 6a Fungus The Bogeyman Trad 16m
80
HS 4b *** Parsons' Chimney Trad 17m

Put up circa 1900! Climb the overhanging V corner directly to the cave. Chimney up from there with increasing exposure to exit outwards on good holds. A vintage classic, as the guide book says.

FA: William Parsons

81
HVS 5a *** Overhanging Groove Trad 17m
82
VS 4c ** Central Climb Trad 15m
83
E3 6a WASC Trad 15m
84
VS 4c ** Z Climb Trad 15m
85
E1 5b *** Z Climb Eliminate Trad 14m
86
E3 6a Why Climb Trad 10m
87
VD Cup and Saucer Trad 13m
88
E2 6a First Night Trad 10m
89
E2 5c * Encore Trad 10m
90
HVS 5b ** Finale Slab Trad 13m
91
E4 6a Penny Pip Trad 11m
92
E4 6b Exit Stage Left Trad 11m
93
E5 6a ** All Our Yesterdays Trad 16m
94
E2 5c * Twelfth Night Trad 15m
95
96
S 4b * Fisher's Traverse Trad 16m
97
E1 5b *** North West Girdle Trad 65m
98
S Lovat Strides Trad 6m

FA: Jamie Moss, 2002

99
HS Tudor Rose Trad 6m

FA: Matthew Kilner, 2001

100

FA: Jamie Moss, 2001

101
D Corner Crack Trad 7m
102
S Green Wall Trad 8m
103
S Lichen Wall Trad 7m
104
HVS 5a * Green Gully Wall Trad 8m
105
VS 4c Green Gully Rib Trad 7m
106
HVD 5a The Final Finale Trad 20m
107
108
VS 5a Eastern Exit Trad

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