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Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.8 Trotsky Trad
2

Start as for Trotsky. Head up & left after triangular hole @ 15 feet, avoid using right facing flake next to short left facing corner. Using this flake & corner makes the climb considerably easier (it's the crux of Trotsky). Pull over slightly overhanging juggy flakes to a no-hands rest just below the slab crux. Follow shallow corner to crack to large ledge. Build belay in horizontal crack at back of ledge OR place a directional, traverse right along ledge and finish up 6 foot tall wide crack to ledge. Build anchor in vertical crack.

3
5.12b Pipe Dreams Mixed 5

5 pins, with hand to finger sized pieces to protect upper 20 feet. 2 bolt anchor with rap rings.

4
5.11c Juvenile Sport 4

1 optional small piece (blue alien sized, about 20 feet off the ground) to protect thin moves leading to first bolt. 2 bolt anchor with rap rings.

6
5.11d Galeface Unknown 2

Widely spaced bolts (drilled by hand on lead) protect hard face moves. Follow right arching overlap protected by badly rusted, badly placed pins.

7

Start at van sized boulder to left of Galeface & Maniacal Depression. Climb easy broken left angling ramp. Clip a pin, step down, traverse right for 4 feet, then continue up to a large tree ledge. Build anchor at the far right end of the ledge. Second pitch (30') follows a wide chimney. Step right at the end of the chimney, supplementing 2 in situ pins with 1 or 2 pieces for the belay anchor. Walk right along really wide ledge to 2 bolt anchor with rap rings. Rappel can be done in 1 rap with a 70m rope, or in 2 (using anchor for 1st pitch of Maniacal Depression).

8
5.10a Fear Of Flying Trad

Route does not have an easy rappel descent. Either rap off a tree (being careful that the rope doesn't get stuck when you try to retrieve it) or climb the last pitch of Standard or Story of O.

9
5.6 ** The Story Of O Trad
10
5.10d Dynamo Hum Trad

From 1st pitch belay for Story of O, climb upside-down J shaped flaring crack (to right of belay). Finishes on same ledge as Fear of Flying, Standard Route, etc. Same descent info as for Fear of Flying.

11
5.7 * Gunklandia Trad

1st pitch climbs thin fingers to wide hands. Ends at large ledge with dead looking tree at same level as anchor for Old Town. 2nd pitch climbs awkwardly sized chimney to finger/hand sized crack to ledge. Belay from here, then traverse up & left to anchor for Return to Forever for descent. Make 2 raps to ground.

12
5.9 Birch Ade Trad

From 1st pitch belay for Gunklandia, climb straight up, aiming for 15' tall right facing corner with hand crack (crux). Climb big undercling flake to large wedged block at start of short left facing corner. Climb carefully past this block (it shifts on occasion), to belay ledge. Make 2 raps to ground.

13
5.10b *** Emigrant Crack Trad

From 1st pitch belay for Gunklandia, climb up and right to finger sized crack that splits the vertical wall to the right of the 2nd pitch of Gunklandia. Belay from ledge, follow descent directions for Gunklandia.

14
5.7 ** Old Town Trad

2 bolt anchor with rap rings.

15
5.10a Michael's Pin Unknown
16
5.9 * Return To Forever Unknown
17

off-width corner

18
19
5.11b ** Connecticut Cracks Unknown
20
5.11c Selfless Bastard Unknown
21
5.10a Chitlin' Corner Unknown
23
5.11c Jaws Unknown
24
5.10d Pressure Drop Unknown
25
5.10a Sea Gypsy Unknown
27
5.5 *** Wafer Step Unknown
28
5.11b Road to Nowhere Unknown
29
5.4 Precipice Ledges Unknown

Areas

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Style
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Grades

Routes

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Grade Route
31
5.7 Midnight Delight Unknown
32
5.10d Pecos Sandwiches Unknown
33
5.10d Mancheppi Soup Unknown
34
5.7 Boys From Bangor Unknown
35
5.10a The Reach Unknown
36
5.8 Schooner Unknown
37
5.10c Adrift Unknown
38
5.10b Smooth Sailing Unknown
39
5.10d Blackbeard's Arete Unknown

Areas

Add subarea(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
41
5.6 Dike Gully Unknown
42
5.8 Fat Back Crack Unknown
43
5.11a Gypsy Arete Unknown
44
45
5.11b Rusticator Unknown
46
5.11a High Plains Drifter Unknown
47
5.10a Exit Laughing Unknown
48
5.10b The Wet Lithuanian Unknown
49
5.10c Roomful of Blues Unknown
50
5.9 Connecticut Arete Unknown
51
5.11a Chopped Face Unknown
52
5.11c Work'n on My Tan Unknown
53
5.11d Swept Away Unknown
54
5.9 Wagger Unknown
55
5.6 Grendal Unknown
56
5.9 Gunklandia Direct Unknown
57
5.10d Scaramouche Unknown
58
5.11d Scaramouche Arete Unknown
59
60
5.11d Popeye's Arete Unknown
61
5.10 Morning Thunder Unknown
62
5.10 Byzantine Unknown
63
5.11a Impalpable Cracks Unknown
64
5.7 Country Corner Unknown
65
5.11c Eclipse Unknown
66
5.10a Tempest Unknown
67
5.10d Toxic Shock Syndrome Unknown
69
5.7 Vacation Cracks Unknown
70
5.10a Scrimshaw Unknown
71
5.10b Shark Tank Unknown
72
5.12a Small Crack Warning Unknown
73
5.10a Rainbow Warrior Unknown
74
5.9 Conan Unknown
75
5.11c High Wire Unknown
76
5.10c Offshore Crack Unknown
77
5.10c Crosswind Unknown
78
5.11a Pirates of Penzance Unknown
79
5.11b Crossbones Unknown