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Start as for Trotsky. Head up & left after triangular hole @ 15 feet, avoid using right facing flake next to short left facing corner. Using this flake & corner makes the climb considerably easier (it's the crux of Trotsky). Pull over slightly overhanging juggy flakes to a no-hands rest just below the slab crux. Follow shallow corner to crack to large ledge. Build belay in horizontal crack at back of ledge OR place a directional, traverse right along ledge and finish up 6 foot tall wide crack to ledge. Build anchor in vertical crack.
5 pins, with hand to finger sized pieces to protect upper 20 feet. 2 bolt anchor with rap rings.
1 optional small piece (blue alien sized, about 20 feet off the ground) to protect thin moves leading to first bolt. 2 bolt anchor with rap rings.
Widely spaced bolts (drilled by hand on lead) protect hard face moves. Follow right arching overlap protected by badly rusted, badly placed pins.
Start at van sized boulder to left of Galeface & Maniacal Depression. Climb easy broken left angling ramp. Clip a pin, step down, traverse right for 4 feet, then continue up to a large tree ledge. Build anchor at the far right end of the ledge. Second pitch (30') follows a wide chimney. Step right at the end of the chimney, supplementing 2 in situ pins with 1 or 2 pieces for the belay anchor. Walk right along really wide ledge to 2 bolt anchor with rap rings. Rappel can be done in 1 rap with a 70m rope, or in 2 (using anchor for 1st pitch of Maniacal Depression).
Route does not have an easy rappel descent. Either rap off a tree (being careful that the rope doesn't get stuck when you try to retrieve it) or climb the last pitch of Standard or Story of O.
From 1st pitch belay for Story of O, climb upside-down J shaped flaring crack (to right of belay). Finishes on same ledge as Fear of Flying, Standard Route, etc. Same descent info as for Fear of Flying.
1st pitch climbs thin fingers to wide hands. Ends at large ledge with dead looking tree at same level as anchor for Old Town. 2nd pitch climbs awkwardly sized chimney to finger/hand sized crack to ledge. Belay from here, then traverse up & left to anchor for Return to Forever for descent. Make 2 raps to ground.
From 1st pitch belay for Gunklandia, climb straight up, aiming for 15' tall right facing corner with hand crack (crux). Climb big undercling flake to large wedged block at start of short left facing corner. Climb carefully past this block (it shifts on occasion), to belay ledge. Make 2 raps to ground.
From 1st pitch belay for Gunklandia, climb up and right to finger sized crack that splits the vertical wall to the right of the 2nd pitch of Gunklandia. Belay from ledge, follow descent directions for Gunklandia.
2 bolt anchor with rap rings.
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Old Town 5.7 - taken 13 years ago
Kyle Warren on Old Town 5.7 - oldtown.jpg - uploaded 6 years ago
Matt Swartz on The Story Of O 5.6 - Me cleaning the final pitch of Story Of O - taken 13 years ago
Matt Swartz on Old Town 5.7 - me cleaning - taken 13 years ago