Adirondacks Rock climbing498 routes in crag
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Huge state park with lots of rock, from easily approachable to back country.
Adirondack state park is the largest state in the contiguous 48 states, and covers some 6.1 million acres of land in north-eastern New York state. There is climbing scattered throughout the park, but the concentration is greatest in the north-east centered around Keene.
The guidebook for the area is Adirondack Rock: A Rock Climber's Guide by Jim Lawyer and Jeremy Haas. This is an excellent and exhaustive guide to the climbing in the park. They also supply excellent ongoing support on their website, http://www.adirondackrock.com/ . Along with errata, they supply PDFs of the topos for most of the larger cliffs so you don't have to photocopy or rip-out the topos for the multi-pitch climbs, as well as updates on new development (e.g. some 145 routes on 15 cliffs in the Silver Lake and Potter mountain areas).
Varies from cliff to cliff and crag to crag. At the short end, e.g. "Chapel Pond Slab" it is about a minute -- and most people rack up at their car. At the long end, with some of the back-country cliffs, you would be looking at several hours to a day for the approach. And, some cliffs have water approaches.
Where to stay
Camping in the park is one option -- groups of up to 10 people can camp anywhere as long as it is more than 150ft from a road, water path, or trail. Camping is allowed up to 3 days without a permit, and no more than 2 weeks at any one location even with a permit (available by phone from the Forest Ranger Office.)
There are, also, numerous small towns throughout the park, and this is holiday and cottage country. So, there are also numerous hotels and motels at various levels of fancy -- especially in the Lake Placid area -- as well as cottage rentals around.
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