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Description

The south face of the Gothics. A 600' (200m) or so south-facing cliff on the Gothics. Generally slab, with the occasionally steeper section and headwall or overlap to add excitement.

Approach

The approach is long and involved. (The Adirondack Rock guide book says "3.5 hours, difficult". Maybe you could do it in 3.5 hours if you were super-fit.)

Parking is at the juncture of the Ausauble Club road and highway 73. Walk up the Ausauble club road, to the tennis courts and turn left on there to Lake Road (private road, gravel) and hike up to Ausauble lake. (About 3.5 miles, 800' altitude gain.) From there, cross the river and follow the trail for Gothics (or Gothics by way of Pyramid peak). This takes you up 2500' to Pyramid peak in about 2 more miles. (From the peak, you will have an excellent view of Gothics peak south face (to the left of the peak) and the Rainbow Slide (to the right of the peak). Hike down the trail into the col between the two peaks, and then in the 15' or so flat section, turn left of the trail and bushwhack into a drainage gully. Descend this gully through some 4th class sections (steep, mossy, and wet), and as the gulley starts to peter out, turn right and traverse to the base of the north face.

Descent notes

Bushwhack from the top of the cliff to the hiking trail.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
5.4 PG Original Route Trad 400ft

Mostly 3rd and 4th class climbing up a long left-leaning crack then slabs with a 5.4 crux (getting from the crack up onto the slabs).

2
5.10a ** Tea and Biscuits Trad 120ft
3
5.10a South Face Direct Sport 260ft, 3, 8
4
5.6 X *** Gothic Arch Trad 800ft, 6
5
5.6 PG Goodwin Route Trad 680ft, 6

Climbs the right edge of the south face, up easy slabs to a narrow slide that ends a bit beneath the hiking trail. Shares the last 3 pitches with "Gothic Arch".

  1. 200' (65m) 3rd class.
  2. 200' (65m) 3rd class.
  3. 60' (20m) 5.4 PG
  4. 60' (20m) 5.4 PG
  5. 80' (26m) 5.6 PG
  6. 80 (26m) 5.6 PG

Activity

Check out what is happening in South Face.