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Description

The south face of the Gothics. A 600' (200m) or so south-facing cliff on the Gothics. Generally slab, with the occasionally steeper section and headwall or overlap to add excitement.

Approach

The approach is long and involved. (The Adirondack Rock guide book says "3.5 hours, difficult". Maybe you could do it in 3.5 hours if you were super-fit.)

Parking is at the juncture of the Ausauble Club road and highway 73. Walk up the Ausauble club road, to the tennis courts and turn left on there to Lake Road (private road, gravel) and hike up to Ausauble lake. (About 3.5 miles, 800' altitude gain.) From there, cross the river and follow the trail for Gothics (or Gothics by way of Pyramid peak). This takes you up 2500' to Pyramid peak in about 2 more miles. (From the peak, you will have an excellent view of Gothics peak south face (to the left of the peak) and the Rainbow Slide (to the right of the peak). Hike down the trail into the col between the two peaks, and then in the 15' or so flat section, turn left of the trail and bushwhack into a drainage gully. Descend this gully through some 4th class sections (steep, mossy, and wet), and as the gulley starts to peter out, turn right and traverse to the base of the north face.

Descent Notes

Bushwhack from the top of the cliff to the hiking trail.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
5.4 Original Route Trad 400ft

Mostly 3rd and 4th class climbing up a long left-leaning crack then slabs with a 5.4 crux (getting from the crack up onto the slabs).

2
5.10a ** Tea and Biscuits Trad 120ft
3
5.10a South Face Direct Sport 260ft, 8
4
5.6 X ** Gothic Arch Trad 800ft

This ascends the longest line on the south face, with long pitches, no fixed anchors, and some very good climbing. A 70m rope is strongly recommended.

Find the obvious long arch about 70' (20m) above the base, and the long black streak running all the way down the cliff and over the arch (for which the climb is named). The climb starts up a short slab just to the left of the arch.

  1. 80' (26m) 5.6 PG. Climb the slab to a vegetated ledge, then up and right to a wide ledge with a big crack to its right.
  2. 200' (65m) 5.5 PG. Ascend the wide crack, then traverse right on ledges (and accross the black streak) then up and right on flakes towards the right end of the headwall. Setup a semi-hanging belay in the featured rock of the headwall (lots of places along the headwall work).
  3. 210' (70m) 5.6 G (5.2X). Climb the headwall where it goes (lots of choices) and onto a broad pock-marked slab. Up the slab past a short vertical crack (optional belay if running short of rope), then more easy climbing to a tree belay on the left side of the tree peninsula. (I had problem finding a belay anywhere near the low points of this tree peninsula, given that the route goes right, it might be better to look for a tree belay on the right side of the island.
  4. 150' (50m) 5.4 PG. Step right (or is that bushwhack right through the trees?) and go up vegetation to the right of the tree peninsula to a slab beneath an overlap. Up the slab and belay at the overlap.
  5. 80' (26m) 5.6 PG. Step left, and climb the overlap to a crack and then up to the next overlap. Move left 30' (10m), then up a small flake and continue to a 3rd overlap. Climb the overlap then move up and right to the trees for a belay.
  6. 80' (26m) 5.6 PG. Up a slab to an overlap, then climb the overlap to a left-arching crack. Follow the crack left, then climb up and right to the top of the slide. Belay from the trees.

Exit by bushwhacking up and right to the trail between Gothics and Pyramid peaks. (About 50-100' of bushwhacking.)

5
5.6 Goodwin Route Trad 680ft

Climbs the right edge of the south face, up easy slabs to a narrow slide that ends a bit beneath the hiking trail. Shares the last 3 pitches with "Gothic Arch".

  1. 200' (65m) 3rd class.
  2. 200' (65m) 3rd class.
  3. 60' (20m) 5.4 PG
  4. 60' (20m) 5.4 PG
  5. 80' (26m) 5.6 PG
  6. 80 (26m) 5.6 PG