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Description

A smaller crag in the woods below Upper Washbowl.

Approach

Approach as per Upper Washbowl, but stop at Creature Wall, a wall about 25m tall full of left-leaning cracks.

Descent Notes

Fixed anchors, or walk-off left.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.5 Fire Starter Trad
2
5.8 G Night Mare Trad 70ft
3
5.7 G Octo-Pussy Trad 70ft
4
5.8 G Jump Bat Crack Trad 80ft
5
5.8 Arachnid Traction Trad 80ft
6
5.10c PG Arachnophobic Reaction Trad 100ft
7
5.8 PG Diamondback Trad 90ft
8
5.8 PG Black Moriah Trad 90ft
9
5.10a PG The Shining Trad 90ft
10
5.10 Christine Trad 90ft
11
5.7 Gob Hoblin Trad

The approach trail reaches the crag at the base of a 3m or so high triangular block at the base of the crag. This climb starts up the crack forming the right side of the block, then continues up the left-angling crack past a stump about 2/3s of the way and finishes at a tree that usually has slings & rings for a rappel/lower-off anchor.

12
5.8 Pet Cemetary Trad 90ft

Start either at a left leaning crack or in a chimney slot formed by a right facing corner and a low roof on the right. Chimney start was easier to me. Follow the left leaning crack until it disappears then straight up to another crack leading to an (awkward for me) alcove. Follow a diagonal crack across the block face (crux for me) to join the end of Cujo. Tree at the top with a fixed anchor (same anchor for Cujo)

FA: Tom Rosecrans & Mike Hay, 1984

13
5.8 G Cujo Trad 90ft
14
5.11a G Crispy Critter Trad 80ft