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A pleasant granite slab with an easy approach.


A minute or two -- walk through the trees to the obviously visible slab.

Descent notes

Usually done by a walk-off along the (climber's) right of the slab. There is a braid of paths down, some better than others, and often requiring one rappel.


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Grade Route
5.5 X ** Empress Trad 800ft, 7

There is an obvious open area at the base of the cliff. Along the right side is a low-lying roof, that ends at a left-facing corner, with slab to the left. Empress starts up the left-facing corner.

  1. 45m (5.3 G) Climb the left-facing corner until almost at some bushes; step right onto the slab and belay in cracks just above.

  2. 40m (5.2G) Traverse right to stepped rock, up this, then left on some pock-marked white rock then up to a ledge at the base of left-facing left-arching corner and belay. (Overlaps part of Regular Route).

  3. 45m (5.4 G) Follow the corner and arching roof until it overhangs, then head left across the slab to a groove. Cross the pace of a large pancake flake, then across towards a series of 3 hummocks; over the first, under the 2nd, and belay on the top of the 3rd. (Overlaps part of Regular Route).

  4. 40m (5.5 X) Climb straight up the slab with no protection to a left-rising groove. Then follow several small cracks up and left to a large belay ledge below an obvious off-width.

  5. 40m (5.5 G, 5.4 R) Climb the offwidth. At the top, step left onto a small foot ledge, then run it out up the slab to a small stance with a crack for the belay.

  6. 35m (5.3 G, 5.1 R) Climb the crack until it peters out (a few meters) then run it out up the easy friction to the perched block, or tree island to its right.

  7. 4th class. Either straight up to trees above (for south descent gully) or straight right to a break in the trees & path (for the north descent gully, recommended.)

Variation 1: if P1 is wet, climb P1 of Regular Route, then switch back to this.

Variation 2: for a more direct climb, or to avoid the (common) crowds on Regular Route (combines P2 and P3 into one long more direct pitch):

P2. 55m (5.4G) Continue straight up right-facing corners to the regular P3 belay on the top of the hummock.

FA: Fritz Wiessner & George Austin, 1933

5.6 G ** Greensleeves Trad 350ft, 3

This route is a variant finish for Empress.

P1 At the top of Pitch 4 of Empress, traverse right about 15' across a steep slab to a left-facing corner. Go up the left-facing corner until it becomes right-facing. Belay at a bulge where the corner steepens. 150'.

P2. Continue up the corner and crack above to its end. Friction up and left to a tree island. (Or build an anchor about 20' above it.) 140'

P3 4th class -- either straight up to the trees for south descent gully, or straight right along a ledge to the trees for the north descent. 60'

FA: Alpine Club of Canada

5.6 R Victoria Trad 410ft, 3

Another variation for the upper pitches that starts up Empress, then splits off heading for the left side of a prominent roof in the upper slabs.

5.7 X ** Thanksgiving Trad 540ft

Another variation for the upper pitches, heads up towards the right side of the same prominent roof that Victoria passes on the left, then through a roof at the top of Bob's Knob - the blocky section in the upper right part of the slab.


The most popular and best-protect route on the slab.

Start as per Empress.

  1. 45m (5.0 G) Climb about 5m up the corner, to just above a block where there is an obvious crack heading right angled slightly up. Follow this crack to its end, then zag left up a groove. When it ends, walk easily up gentle rock to belay somewhere. Lots of choices in the area, look for a decent ledge with some good cracks.

  2. 42m (5.4 G) Head up and right on some steps of rock with cracks, until you reach a section of whiter pock-marked rock. Climb up this to a ledge at the base of left-facing corner that turns into a left-arching roof. Climb up this corner a few feet (old ring piton), then step up and right onto low-angle face and up to a good ledge. Belay.

  3. 50m (5.5 G) Climb a shallow left-facing corner until there is a break in the bulge above, then step up and right to a scooped ledge with a crack at the back. (Optional P2 belay here instead.) Climb up and right on featured rock then angle leftwards to an obvious left-facing corner with a crack in the back. Climb the excellent crack until the corner ends, then step right to a twin-cracks belay a small headwall.

  4. 35m (5.5 PG) Above the head wall, two cracks angle up and rightwards. Climb the right-hand (more right than up) until it ends; friction right to a gravel ledge at the base of Bob's Knob (the large blocky section of rock at the top-right of the cliff, where it isn't slabby), then up beside a large boulder, or up the slab to its left, to a slot-belay with a birch tree at the back.

  5. 15m (5.5 G) Climb the corner above the tree until about 8m below a dark cave, then angle up and right on good holds to reach a large ledge. Belay on the ledge, consider taking the belay as far right as possible, to reduce rope drag on the last pitch.

  6. 55m (5.2G) Go right along the ledge until you can easily step up a couple ledge to the base of a wide S-curved crack. Follow the crack up, then continue directly up over faces and slab to the top.

(Several described, and many possible, variants exist.)

5.3 * Bob's Knob Standard Trad 840ft, 6

This route, the original on the slab, begins as for Regular Route and then veers right to climb easy rock, avoiding most major difficulties or exposed features.

The following three routes climb Bob's Knob, a steep buttress of rock in the upper right section of the slab.

They face the road, and are reached from the gravel ledge to the right on P4 of "Regular Route" or from "Bob's Knob Standard" which traverses the ledge as part of P4.

5.11 A0 G Dog's Breakfast Trad 120ft
5.9 PG Hamburger Helper Trad 120ft
5.7 G Eagle Crack Trad 120ft
WI2 to WI3 * Chapel Pond Slab - ICE Ice 700ft


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