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Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.5 * Empress Trad 700ft
2
5.6 Greensleeves Trad 350ft

This route is a variant finish for Empress.

P1 At the top of Pitch 4 of Empress, traverse right about 15' across a steep slab to a left-facing corner. Go up the left-facing corner until it becomes right-facing. Belay at a bulge where the corner steepens. 150'.

P2. Continue up the corner and crack above to its end. Friction up and left to a tree island. (Or build an anchor about 20' above it.) 140'

P3 4th class -- either straight up to the trees for south descent gully, or straight right along a ledge to the trees for the north descent. 60'

FA: Alpine Club of Canada

3
5.6 R Victoria Trad 410ft

Another variation for the upper pitches that starts up Empress, then splits off heading for the left side of a prominent roof in the upper slabs.

4
5.7 X ** Thanksgiving Trad 540ft

Another variation for the upper pitches, heads up towards the right side of the same prominent roof that Victoria passes on the left, then through a roof at the top of Bob's Knob - the blocky section in the upper right part of the slab.

5

The most popular and best-protect route on the slab.

P1 5.0 G - 150' P2 5.4 G - 140' P3 5.5 PG - 165' P4 5.5 PG - 120' P5 5.5 G - 50' P6 5.2 G 150'

(Several described, and many possible, variants exist.)

6
5.3 Bob's Knob Standard Trad 840ft

This route, the original on the slab, begins as for Regular Route and then veers right to climb easy rock, avoiding most major difficulties or exposed features.

The following three routes climb Bob's Knob, a steep buttress of rock in the upper right section of the slab.

They face the road, and are reached from the gravel ledge to the right on P4 of "Regular Route" or from "Bob's Knob Standard" which traverses the ledge as part of P4.

7
5.11 A0 Dog's Breakfast Trad 120ft
8
5.9 Hamburger Helper Trad 120ft
9
5.7 Eagle Crack Trad 120ft
10
WI2 to WI3 * Chapel Pond Slab - ICE Ice 700ft