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Description

As you look up across NY 73 from Chapel Pond, this is the large solid bare impressive looking face that rises above the trees and talus.

At 350ft (115m) tall, this is one of the larger non-slab cliffs in the area with a reasonable approach, and provides a number of excellent moderate and hard multi-pitch climbs.

Approach

Park in the pull-out for Giant Mountain, or if that is full, the pull-out for Chapel Pond slab just to the west. Look for an obvious trail that starts just right (east) of the start (from Giant/end from Chapel Pond pullout) and which drops off the embankment down into a swampy area.

Follow this trail to the "Creature Wall", at which point turn left and climb the talus up the left side of this wall, past a couple subsidiary minor cliffs. As you approach the base of the main wall, the trail will branch with the right branch going to "Hesitation" and climbs right of this, and the left branch going to "Wiessner Route" and climbs to the left.

Descent Notes

It is possible to hike off either end of the cliff.

Right end rappel. Hike climber's right along the top of the cliff, drop down about 40' to a treed ledge, continue skier's left along this to a facing wall, down a slab in front of this wall to a 2nd treed ledge, at the (skier's) left end of this slab is a rappel tree. The rappel just barely goes with a 60m rope. From the base of the rappel go skiers right down under the lip and continue along the base of the cliff.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
5.7 BBC Trad 180ft

P1: 5.7 PG, 90ft P2: 5.2G, 60ft P3: 5.6 G, 30ft

2
5.7 Cul-de-Sac Trad 25ft
3
5.11a * Mastercraft Trad 120ft
4
5.11b * Mastercharge Trad 150ft
  1. 5.9- G, 90ft

  2. 5.11b G, 60ft variant P2: 5.8 G. (giving a good 5.9 2-pitch climb)

5
5.9 *** Partition Trad 200ft

From large ledge on wiessner's route it is the large left facing bookend. Thin to good hands, laybacking mostly. Excellent route with a wild exit move.

6
5.8 Whoops Trad 350ft

Start 20ft left of Wiessner route.

  1. 5.8 G, 80ft.

  2. 5.8 PG, 90ft.

  3. Slanting ledge 3rd class, 150ft.

  4. 5.8 G, 30ft.

7
5.6 ** Wiessner route Trad 350ft

One of the classic easy routes up the cliff.

Start about 150 left of where the approach trail meets the cliff, with a deep right-facing corner.

  1. 5.6 climb chimney to block, pull over left side and onto it (crux) and belay there, or ledge 20ft higher. 75ft (95 ft)

  2. 5.4 head up and left in the depression between the main wall to the right and corner to the left, going left when the depression ends. Belay at the upper of a pair of cedars.

  3. 3rd class. Traverse up and left up the slanting ramp until the head wall is reached. 150ft.

  4. Climb the right-facing corner, exit left. 35ft.

FA: Fritz Wiessner, M Becket Howorth, Bob Notman, 1938

8

Finishes at end of P1 belay of Hesitation.

9
5.10b Weekend Warrior Trad 360ft

Starts up the bolted face going diagonally up and left from "Hesitation", then up the main prow of the cliff.

10
5.8 ** Hesitation Trad 360ft

Near the base of the cliff, hike right under a low cliff, then up and left to the base of the main wall, where a small boulder sits below a large corner with a crack at the back, a small roof 40ft up and large roofs about 90ft up.

Pitches 1 and 4 are excellent.

  1. 5.8 G: Climb the crack & corner to the small roof, pass it on the right, then up to just below the large roofs, belay. 90ft.

  2. 5.7 PG (5.5 R). Hand traverse out right on an obvious crack/rail, until you reach a nose with a notch in it (and piton in the corner), pull up onto a left-rising ramp, and run it out back to a ledge with a vertical crack directly above the previous belay. 75ft.

  3. 5.5 G. Climb the broken crack/groove directly above the anchor, past a perched block on the right to a bit of slab then a ledge with a vertical crack. Be careful for loose rock and shrubbery. Much better than it looks from below, but would be still better if less vegetated. 90ft.

  4. 5.6 G. Climb directly up the imposing crack and roofs overhead to the top. It sure doesn't look like 5.6 from the anchor, but there are useful holds on the right wall. 70ft.

FA: John Tucker, Brian Rothery, Irwin Hodgson, 1958

11
5.10c ** Flashdance Trad 280ft
  1. 5.9 G, 75ft.

  2. 5.9+ G, 60ft.

  3. 5.6 G, 70ft.

  4. 5.10c PG, 70ft.

12
5.10a ** Overture Trad 300ft
  1. 5.10a G (5.8 PG), 100ft.

  2. 5.6 G, 100ft.

  3. 5.8 G, 100ft.

13
5.8 ** Prelude to an Overture Trad 300ft

Linkup:

  1. 5.8 G first pitch of Prelude.

  2. 5.6 G pitch 2 of Overture.

  3. 5.8 G pitch 3 of Overture.

This linkup provides an excellent 5.8 route up the right end of the cliff.

14
5.8 Prelude Trad 230ft
  1. 5.8 G, 100ft.

  2. 5.6 G, 60ft.

  3. 5.7 G, 70ft.

15
5.5 Buffalo Soldier Trad 160ft
  1. 5.5 G, 110ft.

  2. 5.5 G, 50ft.

The following routes (Mann Act to "Too Wet to Plow") all start from the large slanting ledge that runs along the left side of the cliff. Approach via any of the routes that reach this ledge - Wiessner Route or most left of it.

16
5.9 R Mann Act Trad 90ft
17
5.11d R Feet of Fire Trad 90ft
18
5.11a * Flight into Emerald City Trad 90ft
19
5.11b * Till the Fat Lady Sings Trad 120ft
20
5.12a Too Wet to Plow Trad 100ft