Upper Washbowl All trad climbing20 routes in cliff
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As you look up across NY 73 from Chapel Pond, this is the large solid bare impressive looking face that rises above the trees and talus.
At 350ft (115m) tall, this is one of the larger non-slab cliffs in the area with a reasonable approach, and provides a number of excellent moderate and hard multi-pitch climbs.
Park in the pull-out for Giant Mountain, or if that is full, the pull-out for Chapel Pond slab just to the west. Look for an obvious trail that starts just right (east) of the start (from Giant/end from Chapel Pond pullout) and which drops off the embankment down into a swampy area.
Follow this trail to the "Creature Wall", at which point turn left and climb the talus up the left side of this wall, past a couple subsidiary minor cliffs. As you approach the base of the main wall, the trail will branch with the right branch going to "Hesitation" and climbs right of this, and the left branch going to "Wiessner Route" and climbs to the left.
It is possible to hike off either end of the cliff.
Right end rappel. Hike climber's right along the top of the cliff, drop down about 40' to a treed ledge, continue skier's left along this to a facing wall, down a slab in front of this wall to a 2nd treed ledge, at the (skier's) left end of this slab is a rappel tree. The rappel just barely goes with a 60m rope. From the base of the rappel go skiers right down under the lip and continue along the base of the cliff.
Near the base of the cliff, hike right under a low cliff, then up and left to the base of the main wall, where a small boulder sits below a large corner with a crack at the back, a small roof 40ft up and large roofs about 90ft up.
Pitches 1 and 4 are excellent.
5.8 G: Climb the crack & corner to the small roof, pass it on the right, then up to just below the large roofs, belay. 90ft.
5.7 PG (5.5 R). Hand traverse out right on an obvious crack/rail, until you reach a nose with a notch in it (and piton in the corner), pull up onto a left-rising ramp, and run it out back to a ledge with a vertical crack directly above the previous belay. 75ft.
5.5 G. Climb the broken crack/groove directly above the anchor, past a perched block on the right to a bit of slab then a ledge with a vertical crack. Be careful for loose rock and shrubbery. Much better than it looks from below, but would be still better if less vegetated. 90ft.
5.6 G. Climb directly up the imposing crack and roofs overhead to the top. It sure doesn't look like 5.6 from the anchor, but there are useful holds on the right wall. 70ft.
FA: John Tucker, Brian Rothery, Irwin Hodgson, 1958
5.9 G, 75ft.
5.9+ G, 60ft.
5.6 G, 70ft.
5.10c PG, 70ft.
5.10a G (5.8 PG), 100ft.
5.6 G, 100ft.
5.8 G, 100ft.
5.8 G, 100ft.
5.6 G, 60ft.
5.7 G, 70ft.
5.5 G, 110ft.
5.5 G, 50ft.