A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Table of contents
As you look up across NY 73 from Chapel Pond, this is the large solid bare impressive looking face that rises above the trees and talus.
At 350ft (115m) tall, this is one of the larger non-slab cliffs in the area with a reasonable approach, and provides a number of excellent moderate and hard multi-pitch climbs.
Park in the pull-out for Giant Mountain, or if that is full, the pull-out for Chapel Pond slab just to the west. Look for an obvious trail that starts just right (east) of the start (from Giant/end from Chapel Pond pullout) and which drops off the embankment down into a swampy area.
Follow this trail to the "Creature Wall", at which point turn left and climb the talus up the left side of this wall, past a couple subsidiary minor cliffs. As you approach the base of the main wall, the trail will branch with the right branch going to "Hesitation" and climbs right of this, and the left branch going to "Wiessner Route" and climbs to the left.
- Descent Notes:
It is possible to hike off either end of the cliff.
Right end rappel. Hike climber's right along the top of the cliff, drop down about 40' to a treed ledge, continue skier's left along this to a facing wall, down a slab in front of this wall to a 2nd treed ledge, at the (skier's) left end of this slab is a rappel tree. The rappel just barely goes with a 60m rope. From the base of the rappel go skiers right down under the lip and continue along the base of the cliff.
P1: 5.7 PG, 90ft P2: 5.2G, 60ft P3: 5.6 G, 30ft
From large ledge on wiessner's route it is the large left facing bookend. Thin to good hands, laybacking mostly. Excellent route with a wild exit move.
Start 20ft left of Wiessner route.
One of the classic easy routes up the cliff.
Start about 150 left of where the approach trail meets the cliff, with a deep right-facing corner.
FA: Fritz Wiessner, M Becket Howorth, Bob Notman, 28th May
Third Time for Mrs. Robinson
Finishes at end of P1 belay of Hesitation.
Starts up the bolted face going diagonally up and left from "Hesitation", then up the main prow of the cliff.
Near the base of the cliff, hike right under a low cliff, then up and left to the base of the main wall, where a small boulder sits below a large corner with a crack at the back, a small roof 40ft up and large roofs about 90ft up.
Pitches 1 and 4 are excellent.
FA: John Tucker, Brian Rothery, Irwin Hodgson, 1958
Prelude to an Overture
This linkup provides an excellent 5.8 route up the right end of the cliff.
The following routes (Mann Act to "Too Wet to Plow") all start from the large slanting ledge that runs along the left side of the cliff. Approach via any of the routes that reach this ledge - Wiessner Route or most left of it.
|16||Mann Act||5.9 R||90ft|
|17||Feet of Fire||5.11d R||90ft|
|18||Flight into Emerald City||5.11a||90ft|
|19||Till the Fat Lady Sings||5.11b||120ft|
|20||Too Wet to Plow||5.12a||100ft|
|Prelude to an Overture||300ft|
|5.10b||Third Time for Mrs. Robinson||170ft|
|5.11a||Flight into Emerald City||90ft|
|Till the Fat Lady Sings||120ft|
|5.11d||Feet of Fire||90ft|
|5.12a||Too Wet to Plow||100ft|