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Table of contents

1. Upper Washbowl 20 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Trad
Description:

As you look up across NY 73 from Chapel Pond, this is the large solid bare impressive looking face that rises above the trees and talus.

At 350ft (115m) tall, this is one of the larger non-slab cliffs in the area with a reasonable approach, and provides a number of excellent moderate and hard multi-pitch climbs.

Approach:

Park in the pull-out for Giant Mountain, or if that is full, the pull-out for Chapel Pond slab just to the west. Look for an obvious trail that starts just right (east) of the start (from Giant/end from Chapel Pond pullout) and which drops off the embankment down into a swampy area.

Follow this trail to the "Creature Wall", at which point turn left and climb the talus up the left side of this wall, past a couple subsidiary minor cliffs. As you approach the base of the main wall, the trail will branch with the right branch going to "Hesitation" and climbs right of this, and the left branch going to "Wiessner Route" and climbs to the left.

Descent Notes:

It is possible to hike off either end of the cliff.

Right end rappel. Hike climber's right along the top of the cliff, drop down about 40' to a treed ledge, continue skier's left along this to a facing wall, down a slab in front of this wall to a 2nd treed ledge, at the (skier's) left end of this slab is a rappel tree. The rappel just barely goes with a 60m rope. From the base of the rappel go skiers right down under the lip and continue along the base of the cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 BBC

P1: 5.7 PG, 90ft P2: 5.2G, 60ft P3: 5.6 G, 30ft

5.7Trad 180ft
2 Cul-de-Sac 5.7Trad 25ft
3 * Mastercraft 5.11aTrad 120ft
4 * Mastercharge
  1. 5.9- G, 90ft

  2. 5.11b G, 60ft variant P2: 5.8 G. (giving a good 5.9 2-pitch climb)

5.11bTrad 150ft
5 *** Partition

From large ledge on wiessner's route it is the large left facing bookend. Thin to good hands, laybacking mostly. Excellent route with a wild exit move.

5.9Trad 200ft
6 Whoops

Start 20ft left of Wiessner route.

  1. 5.8 G, 80ft.

  2. 5.8 PG, 90ft.

  3. Slanting ledge 3rd class, 150ft.

  4. 5.8 G, 30ft.

5.8Trad 350ft
7 ** Wiessner route

One of the classic easy routes up the cliff.

Start about 150 left of where the approach trail meets the cliff, with a deep right-facing corner.

  1. 5.6 climb chimney to block, pull over left side and onto it (crux) and belay there, or ledge 20ft higher. 75ft (95 ft)

  2. 5.4 head up and left in the depression between the main wall to the right and corner to the left, going left when the depression ends. Belay at the upper of a pair of cedars.

  3. 3rd class. Traverse up and left up the slanting ramp until the head wall is reached. 150ft.

  4. Climb the right-facing corner, exit left. 35ft.

FA: Fritz Wiessner, M Becket Howorth, Bob Notman, 28th May

5.6Trad 350ft
8 Third Time for Mrs. Robinson

Finishes at end of P1 belay of Hesitation.

5.10bTrad 170ft
9 Weekend Warrior

Starts up the bolted face going diagonally up and left from "Hesitation", then up the main prow of the cliff.

5.10bTrad 360ft
10 ** Hesitation

Near the base of the cliff, hike right under a low cliff, then up and left to the base of the main wall, where a small boulder sits below a large corner with a crack at the back, a small roof 40ft up and large roofs about 90ft up.

Pitches 1 and 4 are excellent.

  1. 5.8 G: Climb the crack & corner to the small roof, pass it on the right, then up to just below the large roofs, belay. 90ft.

  2. 5.7 PG (5.5 R). Hand traverse out right on an obvious crack/rail, until you reach a nose with a notch in it (and piton in the corner), pull up onto a left-rising ramp, and run it out back to a ledge with a vertical crack directly above the previous belay. 75ft.

  3. 5.5 G. Climb the broken crack/groove directly above the anchor, past a perched block on the right to a bit of slab then a ledge with a vertical crack. Be careful for loose rock and shrubbery. Much better than it looks from below, but would be still better if less vegetated. 90ft.

  4. 5.6 G. Climb directly up the imposing crack and roofs overhead to the top. It sure doesn't look like 5.6 from the anchor, but there are useful holds on the right wall. 70ft.

FA: John Tucker, Brian Rothery, Irwin Hodgson, 1958

5.8Trad 360ft
11 ** Flashdance
  1. 5.9 G, 75ft.

  2. 5.9+ G, 60ft.

  3. 5.6 G, 70ft.

  4. 5.10c PG, 70ft.

5.10cTrad 280ft
12 ** Overture
  1. 5.10a G (5.8 PG), 100ft.

  2. 5.6 G, 100ft.

  3. 5.8 G, 100ft.

5.10aTrad 300ft
13 ** Prelude to an Overture

Linkup:

  1. 5.8 G first pitch of Prelude.

  2. 5.6 G pitch 2 of Overture.

  3. 5.8 G pitch 3 of Overture.

This linkup provides an excellent 5.8 route up the right end of the cliff.

5.8Trad 300ft
14 Prelude
  1. 5.8 G, 100ft.

  2. 5.6 G, 60ft.

  3. 5.7 G, 70ft.

5.8Trad 230ft
15 Buffalo Soldier
  1. 5.5 G, 110ft.

  2. 5.5 G, 50ft.

5.5Trad 160ft

The following routes (Mann Act to "Too Wet to Plow") all start from the large slanting ledge that runs along the left side of the cliff. Approach via any of the routes that reach this ledge - Wiessner Route or most left of it.

16 Mann Act 5.9 RTrad 90ft
17 Feet of Fire 5.11d RTrad 90ft
18 * Flight into Emerald City 5.11aTrad 90ft
19 * Till the Fat Lady Sings 5.11bTrad 120ft
20 Too Wet to Plow 5.12aTrad 100ft

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
5.5 Buffalo Soldier Trad 160ft
5.6 ** Wiessner route Trad 350ft
5.7 BBC Trad 180ft
Cul-de-Sac Trad 25ft
5.8 ** Hesitation Trad 360ft
Prelude Trad 230ft
** Prelude to an Overture Trad 300ft
Whoops Trad 350ft
5.9 Mann Act Trad 90ft
*** Partition Trad 200ft
5.10a ** Overture Trad 300ft
5.10b Third Time for Mrs. Robinson Trad 170ft
Weekend Warrior Trad 360ft
5.10c ** Flashdance Trad 280ft
5.11a * Flight into Emerald City Trad 90ft
* Mastercraft Trad 120ft
5.11b * Mastercharge Trad 150ft
* Till the Fat Lady Sings Trad 120ft
5.11d Feet of Fire Trad 90ft
5.12a Too Wet to Plow Trad 100ft