From large ledge on wiessner's route it is the large left facing bookend. Thin to good hands, laybacking mostly. Excellent route with a wild exit move.
Near the base of the cliff, hike right under a low cliff, then up and left to the base of the main wall, where a small boulder sits below a large corner with a crack at the back, a small roof 40ft up and large roofs about 90ft up. Pitches 1 and 4 are excellent. 1. 5.8 G: Climb the crack & corner to the small roof, pass it on the right, then up to just below the large roofs, belay. 90ft. 2. 5.7 PG (5.5 R). Hand traverse out right on an obvious crack/rail, until you reach a nose with a notch in it (and piton in the corner), pull up onto a left-rising ramp, and run it out back to a ledge with a vertical crack directly above the previous belay. 75ft. 3. 5.5 G. Climb the broken crack/groove directly above the anchor, past a perched block on the right to a bit of slab then a ledge with a vertical crack. Be careful for loose rock and shrubbery. Much better than it looks from below, but would be still better if less vegetated. 90ft. 4. 5.6 G. Climb directly up the imposing crack and roofs overhead to the top. It sure doesn't look like 5.6 from the anchor, but there are useful holds on the right wall. 70ft.
1. 5.10a G (5.8 PG), 100ft. 2. 5.6 G, 100ft. 3. 5.8 G, 100ft.
|17|| Mann Act
|18|| Feet of Fire
|19|| Flight into Emerald City
|20|| Till the Fat Lady Sings
|21|| Too Wet to Plow