A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Adirondacks 422 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: -74.381490, 43.911773

Unique Features And Strengths:

Huge state park with lots of rock, from easily approachable to back country.

Description:

Adirondack state park is the largest state in the contiguous 48 states, and covers some 6.1 million acres of land in north-eastern New York state. There is climbing scattered throughout the park, but the concentration is greatest in the north-east centered around Keene.

The guidebook for the area is Adirondack Rock: A Rock Climber's Guide by Jim Lawyer and Jeremy Haas. This is an excellent and exhaustive guide to the climbing in the park. They also supply excellent ongoing support on their website, http://www.adirondackrock.com/ . Along with errata, they supply PDFs of the topos for most of the larger cliffs so you don't have to photocopy or rip-out the topos for the multi-pitch climbs, as well as updates on new development (e.g. some 145 routes on 15 cliffs in the Silver Lake and Potter mountain areas).

Approach:

Varies from cliff to cliff and crag to crag. At the short end, e.g. "Chapel Pond Slab" it is about a minute -- and most people rack up at their car. At the long end, with some of the back-country cliffs, you would be looking at several hours to a day for the approach. And, some cliffs have water approaches.

Where To Stay:

Camping in the park is one option -- groups of up to 10 people can camp anywhere as long as it is more than 150ft from a road, water path, or trail. Camping is allowed up to 3 days without a permit, and no more than 2 weeks at any one location even with a permit (available by phone from the Forest Ranger Office.)

There are, also, numerous small towns throughout the park, and this is holiday and cottage country. So, there are also numerous hotels and motels at various levels of fancy -- especially in the Lake Placid area -- as well as cottage rentals around.

1.1. Keene 178 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: -73.752319, 44.142373

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Roaring Brook Falls WI3+Ice 350ft

1.1.1. Jewels and Gems 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:

A small cliff on the North side of highway 73, just a bit east of Chapel Pond. With easy top of cliff access, this is a popular area for top-roping.

Approach:

Park about 800m east of the Chapel Pond Pool out on the right (south) side of highway 73, just before the start of a guard rail. Cross the highway, and hike up the obvious, short, trail to the cliff.

Descent Notes:

Fixed anchors on several trees, or walk off (climber's) right.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Little Black Book 5.10aTrad 60ft
2 * Family Jewels 5.8Mixed 65ft, 1
3 Coal Miner 5.9Trad 65ft
4 Pearl Necklace 5.8 RTrad 65ft
5 D1 5.11Top rope 65ft
6 ** North Country Club Crack

Climb the obvious right-angling crack that is just in front of the approach path. Finish to the right of the tree cluster that is above the right-end of the crack.

5.6Trad 70ft
7 NCCC - V1

Start about 8ft right of the crack at a small seam. Climb up this past a small roof, then on to the ledge.

A bit farther right, is another seam that could also be top-roped.

5.10aTop rope 70ft
8 * Diamond and Coal 5.6Trad 70ft
9 In the Buff 5.9Trad 70ft
10 In the Rough 5.7Trad 70ft
11 Shaky Spider 5.10b RTrad 70ft

1.1.2. Noonmark Mountain 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Far Left 5.0Unknown 40ft
2 Chimney Crack 5.3Unknown 40ft
3 *** Wiessner Crack 5.8Unknown 90ft

1.1.3. Creature Wall 5 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and Top Rope
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fire Starter 5.5Unknown
2 Gob Hoblin 5.7Trad
3 Pet Cemetary

Start either at a left leaning crack or in a chimney slot formed by a right facing corner and a low roof on the right. Chimney start was easier to me. Follow the left leaning crack until it disappears then straight up to another crack leading to an (awkward for me) alcove. Follow a diagonal crack across the block face (crux for me) to join the end of Cujo. Tree at the top with a fixed anchor (same anchor for Cujo)

FA: Tom Rosecrans, Mike Hay, 1984

5.8Trad 90ft
4 Arachnid Traction 5.8Unknown 80ft
5 Christine 5.10Unknown 90ft

1.1.4. Chapel Pond Slab 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: -73.744302, 44.135526

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Empress 5.5Trad 700ft
2 Greensleeves

This route is a variant finish for Empress.

P1 At the top of Pitch 4 of Empress, traverse right about 15' across a steep slab to a left-facing corner. Go up the left-facing corner until it becomes right-facing. Belay at a bulge where the corner steepens. 150'.

P2. Continue up the corner and crack above to its end. Friction up and left to a tree island. (Or build an anchor about 20' above it.) 140'

P3 4th class -- either straight up to the trees for south descent gully, or straight right along a ledge to the trees for the north descent. 60'

FA: Alpine Club of Canada

5.6Trad 350ft
3 Victoria

Another variation for the upper pitches that starts up Empress, then splits off heading for the left side of a prominent roof in the upper slabs.

5.6 RTrad 410ft
4 ** Thanksgiving

Another variation for the upper pitches, heads up towards the right side of the same prominent roof that Victoria passes on the left, then through a roof at the top of Bob's Knob - the blocky section in the upper right part of the slab.

5.7 XTrad 540ft
5 ** Regular Route / Standard Route

The most popular and best-protect route on the slab.

P1 5.0 G - 150' P2 5.4 G - 140' P3 5.5 PG - 165' P4 5.5 PG - 120' P5 5.5 G - 50' P6 5.2 G 150'

(Several described, and many possible, variants exist.)

5.5Trad 780ft
6 Bob's Knob Standard

This route, the original on the slab, begins as for Regular Route and then veers right to climb easy rock, avoiding most major difficulties or exposed features.

5.3Trad 840ft

The following three routes climb Bob's Knob, a steep buttress of rock in the upper right section of the slab.

They face the road, and are reached from the gravel ledge to the right on P4 of "Regular Route" or from "Bob's Knob Standard" which traverses the ledge as part of P4.

7 Dog's Breakfast 5.11 A0Trad 120ft
8 Hamburger Helper 5.9Trad 120ft
9 Eagle Crack 5.7Trad 120ft
10 * Chapel Pond Slab - ICE WI2 to WI3Ice 700ft

1.1.5. Upper Washbowl 20 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

As you look up across NY 73 from Chapel Pond, this is the large solid bare impressive looking face that rises above the trees and talus.

At 350ft (115m) tall, this is one of the larger non-slab cliffs in the area with a reasonable approach, and provides a number of excellent moderate and hard multi-pitch climbs.

Approach:

Park in the pull-out for Giant Mountain, or if that is full, the pull-out for Chapel Pond slab just to the west. Look for an obvious trail that starts just right (east) of the start (from Giant/end from Chapel Pond pullout) and which drops off the embankment down into a swampy area.

Follow this trail to the "Creature Wall", at which point turn left and climb the talus up the left side of this wall, past a couple subsidiary minor cliffs. As you approach the base of the main wall, the trail will branch with the right branch going to "Hesitation" and climbs right of this, and the left branch going to "Wiessner Route" and climbs to the left.

Descent Notes:

It is possible to hike off either end of the cliff.

Right end rappel. Hike climber's right along the top of the cliff, drop down about 40' to a treed ledge, continue skier's left along this to a facing wall, down a slab in front of this wall to a 2nd treed ledge, at the (skier's) left end of this slab is a rappel tree. The rappel just barely goes with a 60m rope. From the base of the rappel go skiers right down under the lip and continue along the base of the cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 BBC

P1: 5.7 PG, 90ft P2: 5.2G, 60ft P3: 5.6 G, 30ft

5.7Trad 180ft
2 Cul-de-Sac 5.7Trad 25ft
3 * Mastercraft 5.11aTrad 120ft
4 * Mastercharge
  1. 5.9- G, 90ft

  2. 5.11b G, 60ft variant P2: 5.8 G. (giving a good 5.9 2-pitch climb)

5.11bTrad 150ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 *** Partition

From large ledge on wiessner's route it is the large left facing bookend. Thin to good hands, laybacking mostly. Excellent route with a wild exit move.

5.9Trad 200ft
6 Whoops

Start 20ft left of Wiessner route.

  1. 5.8 G, 80ft.

  2. 5.8 PG, 90ft.

  3. Slanting ledge 3rd class, 150ft.

  4. 5.8 G, 30ft.

5.8Trad 350ft
7 ** Wiessner route

One of the classic easy routes up the cliff.

Start about 150 left of where the approach trail meets the cliff, with a deep right-facing corner.

  1. 5.6 climb chimney to block, pull over left side and onto it (crux) and belay there, or ledge 20ft higher. 75ft (95 ft)

  2. 5.4 head up and left in the depression between the main wall to the right and corner to the left, going left when the depression ends. Belay at the upper of a pair of cedars.

  3. 3rd class. Traverse up and left up the slanting ramp until the head wall is reached. 150ft.

  4. Climb the right-facing corner, exit left. 35ft.

FA: Fritz Wiessner, M Becket Howorth, Bob Notman, 28th May

5.6Trad 350ft
8 Third Time for Mrs. Robinson

Finishes at end of P1 belay of Hesitation.

5.10bTrad 170ft
9 Weekend Warrior

Starts up the bolted face going diagonally up and left from "Hesitation", then up the main prow of the cliff.

5.10bTrad 360ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 ** Hesitation

Near the base of the cliff, hike right under a low cliff, then up and left to the base of the main wall, where a small boulder sits below a large corner with a crack at the back, a small roof 40ft up and large roofs about 90ft up.

Pitches 1 and 4 are excellent.

  1. 5.8 G: Climb the crack & corner to the small roof, pass it on the right, then up to just below the large roofs, belay. 90ft.

  2. 5.7 PG (5.5 R). Hand traverse out right on an obvious crack/rail, until you reach a nose with a notch in it (and piton in the corner), pull up onto a left-rising ramp, and run it out back to a ledge with a vertical crack directly above the previous belay. 75ft.

  3. 5.5 G. Climb the broken crack/groove directly above the anchor, past a perched block on the right to a bit of slab then a ledge with a vertical crack. Be careful for loose rock and shrubbery. Much better than it looks from below, but would be still better if less vegetated. 90ft.

  4. 5.6 G. Climb directly up the imposing crack and roofs overhead to the top. It sure doesn't look like 5.6 from the anchor, but there are useful holds on the right wall. 70ft.

FA: John Tucker, Brian Rothery, Irwin Hodgson, 1958

5.8Trad 360ft
11 ** Flashdance
  1. 5.9 G, 75ft.

  2. 5.9+ G, 60ft.

  3. 5.6 G, 70ft.

  4. 5.10c PG, 70ft.

5.10cTrad 280ft
12 ** Overture
  1. 5.10a G (5.8 PG), 100ft.

  2. 5.6 G, 100ft.

  3. 5.8 G, 100ft.

5.10aTrad 300ft
13 ** Prelude to an Overture

Linkup:

  1. 5.8 G first pitch of Prelude.

  2. 5.6 G pitch 2 of Overture.

  3. 5.8 G pitch 3 of Overture.

This linkup provides an excellent 5.8 route up the right end of the cliff.

5.8Trad 300ft
14 Prelude
  1. 5.8 G, 100ft.

  2. 5.6 G, 60ft.

  3. 5.7 G, 70ft.

5.8Trad 230ft
15 Buffalo Soldier
  1. 5.5 G, 110ft.

  2. 5.5 G, 50ft.

5.5Trad 160ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

The following routes (Mann Act to "Too Wet to Plow") all start from the large slanting ledge that runs along the left side of the cliff. Approach via any of the routes that reach this ledge - Wiessner Route or most left of it.

16 Mann Act 5.9 RTrad 90ft
17 Feet of Fire 5.11d RTrad 90ft
18 * Flight into Emerald City 5.11aTrad 90ft
19 * Till the Fat Lady Sings 5.11bTrad 120ft
20 Too Wet to Plow 5.12aTrad 100ft

1.1.6. Chapel Pond Area 4 routes in Area

Summary:
Ice and Trad

Long/Lat: -73.748103, 44.138853

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Crystal Ice Tower WI4Ice
2 *** Tilman's Arete

1st pitch: Climb up the crack on the rightmost side of the face. reach the belay ledge with fixed anchor + extra party bolt. 2nd pitch: Gain the arete and climb up to the bolt, traverse to the right face and run it out to a small nut crack, follow the arete to the ledge with the fixed anchor.

FA: Karen Stoltz, Cindy Dohl, 1988

5.7Mixed 150ft, 1
3 *** Chouinards Gully WI3Ice 300ft
4 Power Play WI5Ice

1.1.7. Chapel Pond Canyon 4 routes in Area

Summary:
Ice and Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Positive Reinforcement WI3+Ice
2 Haggis and Cold Toast WI3+Ice
3 Ice Slot Unknown
4 Lions on the Beach WI4Ice

1.1.8. Beer Walls 101 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: -73.757299, 44.144298

Unique Features And Strengths:

A good variety of (mostly) single-pitch routes with a short, generally easy, approach. And, many routes have cliff-top access for easy top-roping.

Description:

A small crag in itself, with some 100 routes. This is a set of walls on the south side of NY 73 as it goes through Chapel Pond pass, about 1/2 a mile west of the Chapel Pond pull out. Unlike many of the walls in the pass, these (mostly) face away from the road, over a ridge, and tend to be far more isolated from road noise.

Access Issues:

On Adirondack state park land, and follows those (really quite generous) access rules.

Approach:

Depends on the exact wall, but generally park at the pull-off about 1/2 mile west of the Chapel Pond (park labelled) pullout, then walk a bit farther west to the obvious log bridge and trail. Then follow the trail (through various branchings to different cliffs) generally up and over the ridge to the cliffs.

10-15 minutes and generally easy going.

1.1.8.1. Entrance Wall 3 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
Description:

Small cliff to the left of the approach trail.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 5.58 5.5 RTrad 40ft
2 Zig-Zag 5.9Trad 60ft
3 Tie Me Up 5.8Trad 40ft
1.1.8.2. Near Beer Wall 2 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
Description:

Small cliff above "Upper Beer Wall"

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Teetotaler 5.6Trad 25ft
2 Diet Coke Crack 5.7Trad 25ft
1.1.8.3. Upper Beer Wall 28 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:

The more upstream of the two main beer walls.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Underage Drinking 5.9 RTrad 35ft
2 ** Seven Ounces 5.7Trad 40ft
3 * Bouncer 5.10 RTrad 40ft
4 3.2 5.4Trad 40ft
5 Red Hill Mining Town

A top-rope route.

5.11Unknown 40ft
6 40 Oz. to Freedom

FA: Dave Lent (solo), 1997

5.8 XTrad 45ft
7 * Guinness 5.5Trad 40ft
8 Fake ID 5.8Trad 90ft
1.1.8.3.1. Cover Charge Area 4 routes in Sector
Summary:
All Trad
Description:

A set of routes on the main Upper Beer wall that start from an upper ledge about 40' off the ground.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Spur of the Moment 5.7 RTrad 35ft
2 ** Day's End 5.9Trad 45ft
3 ** Twist Off 5.9 RTrad 50ft
4 ** Cover Charge 5.11aTrad 70ft
1.1.8.3.2. The 5.10 Wall 10 routes in Sector
Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Center Stage 5.12aMixed 150ft, 2
2 The Mouth That Roared 5.11aTrad 150ft
3 ** Roaring Twenties 5.10bTrad 150ft
4 *** Radioactive 5.10bTrad 130ft
5 *** No Comments from the Peanut Gallery 5.10cTrad 130ft
6 *** Neutron Brew 5.10bTrad 130ft
7 *** Tequila Mockingbird 5.10bTrad 130ft
8 * Standard 5.10cTrad 130ft
9 ** Prohibition 5.11bTrad 130ft
10 * Dark Horse Ail

Yes, "Ail" is not a spelling mistake or typo.

5.11cTrad 130ft
1.1.8.3.3. Frosted Mug Area 6 routes in Sector
Summary:
Mostly Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Frosted Mug

A megaclassic corner climb, one of the best at its grade in the Adirondacks.

5.9 RTrad 100ft
2 Flying & Drinking and Drinking & Driving 5.10a RTrad 100ft
3 ** Labatt-Ami 5.7Trad 120ft
4 Twelve-Step Program

A top-rope route.

5.11dUnknown 100ft
5 Boiler Maker 5.10bTrad 80ft
6 Lager-Rhythm 5.9 RTrad 150ft
1.1.8.4. Flailing Wall 2 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
Description:

A small cliff upstream from "Upper Beer Wall"

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Pete's Wicked Flail 5.11dTrad 50ft
2 * Tuesdays 5.11bTrad 60ft
1.1.8.5. Lower Beer Wall 52 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:

The more downstream of the two main beer walls.

1.1.8.5.1. Afternoon Delight Area 5 routes in Sector
Summary:
Trad, Unknown and Top Rope
Description:

Far left end of the cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 (left of CWI)

Top-rope route. Climb the face left of CWI, basically as the rope hangs after leading and anchoring from CWI. (Use the crack as a side-pull for the upper bulge.)

5.9Top rope 50ft
2 * CWI

The acronym is short for "Climbing While Intoxicated".

A nice crack climb -- part way up the gully is an obvious left-leaning crack. Climb up this crack in the corner over a couple small ceilings.

5.6Trad 50ft
3 * Afternoon Delight

A lovely climb up a wide, fairly steep face -- but there are continually good holds all the way up. Sustained at the 5.5 grade. Gear can be odd, but there are generally good placements and good stances for placing.

5.5Trad 60ft
4 Duty Free

Top-rope the left arete of the buttress that is just downhill and to the right of "Afternoon Delight".

5.10bUnknown 50ft
5 Delirium Tremens

Top-rope the right arete of the buttress.

5.10cUnknown 50ft
1.1.8.5.2. Rockaholic Area 7 routes in Sector
Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:

Area around the obvious crack of "Rockaholic".

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dos

This is a girdle traverse of the Rockaholic area.

5.7Trad 170ft
2 * Detoxification 5.8 RTrad 90ft
3 ** Rockaholic 5.8Trad 80ft
4 Don's Top Rope

A top-rope route.

5.10bUnknown 100ft
5 Equis

Climbs the right-facing crescent above and right of 'Rockaholic'.

Start 15' right of Rockaholic at a low-point in the trail, below the center of a head-high arching overlap.

Make a series of bouldery unprotected moves off the ground (harder than 5.8?, closer to the 5.9 of 'On Tap: Special Brew' which shares the start) and proceed through the overlap to the base of a right-facing left-rising ramp with a cedar tree about 15' up. Climb up the ramp, bypassing the tree, to the right facing crescent. Climb up the face on on good flakes to a point where a crack meets the top of the crescent in an A-shape. Pull through this. Above climb the lovely lay-back flake (hollow, but seems solid) to a cedar tree, and then to the top.

5.8 RTrad 100ft
6 On Tap: Special Brew 5.9Trad 110ft
7 Rolling Rock 5.9Trad 140ft
1.1.8.5.3. Dihedrals Area 11 routes in Sector
Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Octoberfast 5.9Trad 120ft
2 Draught Dodger 5.9Trad 100ft
3 Another Beer Walls Black Streak 5.9Trad 100ft
4 Passion Corner 5.10cTrad 60ft
5 Coors Corner

Pitch 1, 5.2G Go up ramp and and take a left up to a 2 tree belay ledge below the Sword. Pitch 2, 5.5 Anyone does it?

5.5Trad 120ft
6 *** Sword 5.6Trad 60ft
7 * Wandering Lunatic 5.10dTrad 90ft
8 ** Redrum 5.5Trad 110ft
9 Block Party 5.7Trad 150ft
10 Death Trap 5.10c XTrad 150ft
11 Quest 5.8 XTrad 150ft
1.1.8.5.4. Pegasus Area 12 routes in Sector
Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:

Routes around the sheer black shield that dominates the center of Lower Beer wall

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Turbocharge 5.10aTrad 150ft
2 Supercharged 5.10c XTrad 80ft
3 Mother Mantel 5.9Trad 100ft
4 Diagonal Chockstone Chimney 5.4Trad 140ft
5 * Anteater 5.8Trad 150ft
6 * Pine Shadows 5.10a RTrad 140ft
7 A-Frame

A top-rope route.

5.8Unknown 100ft
8 ** Pegasus

FA: Rich Leswing, Jim Cunningham, Peffy Collins

5.9 RTrad 140ft
9 Pegasus Direct 5.10d RTrad 40ft
10 *** Blacksmith 5.10aTrad 140ft
11 ** Lichenbrau 5.7Trad 170ft
12 * Pat Tricks 5.10dTrad 150ft
1.1.8.5.5. Clutch and Cruise Cave 6 routes in Sector
Summary:
Mostly Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Backs Against the Wall 5.5Trad 150ft
2 * The Never Recognized Me 5.12dTrad 60ft
3 ** Miller Light 5.12cTrad 60ft
4 Clutch and Cruise 5.8Trad 160ft
5 Sumo Fly

This is listed as a top-rope route. Looking at the length, better be a belay from the top route.

5.9Unknown 150ft
6 Joey Baggadonuts 5.8 RTrad 150ft
1.1.8.5.6. Right End 3 routes in Sector
Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Moosehead 5.5Trad 130ft
2 Barstool Direct 5.9 RTrad 50ft
3 Cue Ball 5.9Trad 110ft
1.1.8.5.7. Live Free or Die Area 8 routes in Sector
Summary:
All Trad
Description:

The actual right end of the cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Crazy Fingers 5.11bTrad 60ft
2 * Fast and Furious 5.7Trad 55ft
3 Jugs of Beer

FA: Jim Cunningham and Pete Benson

5.3Trad 40ft
4 ** Live Free or Die 5.9Trad 40ft
5 Watch Crystal 5.11dTrad 40ft
6 Time Piece 5.11aTrad 35ft
7 No Fear Is Queer 5.9Trad 25ft
8 Thrash 5.7Trad 20ft
1.1.8.6. Corner Pocket 3 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
Description:

A small wall facing NY 73.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Natural English 5.7Trad 50ft
2 Scratch 5.5Trad 50ft
3 Snooker 5.6Trad 50ft
1.1.8.7. Dry Wall 2 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
Description:

Another small wall facing NY 73.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cold Stone Sober 5.10bTrad 70ft
2 Speakeasy 5.10bTrad 70ft
1.1.8.8. Case Wall 8 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Trad and Unknown
Description:

A pair of smaller walls downstream from Lower Beer Wall

1.1.8.8.1. Lives of the Hunted Area 4 routes in Sector
Summary:
Trad and Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tita U. Assol 5.8Trad 40ft
2 Lives of the Hunted 5.8Trad 50ft
3 Mule Kick

A top-rope route.

5.10bUnknown 75ft
4 Climb Free or Die Trying 5.7Trad 50ft
1.1.8.8.2. Shotgun Face 4 routes in Sector
Summary:
Trad and Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Standing Room Only 5.7Trad 140ft
2 Gunpowder Corner

A top-rope route.

5.5Unknown 90ft
3 * Last Swim or Dive 5.7 RTrad 140ft
4 Amateur's Edge 5.5Trad 140ft
1.1.8.9. Crack in the Woods Cliff 1 route in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
Description:

A small outcropping facing NY 73.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Crack in the Woods 5.10dTrad 40ft

1.1.9. Spider's Web 8 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 It's Only Entertainment 5.11+Unknown 100ft
2 Esthesia 5.9Unknown 90ft
3 Slim Pickens 5.9Unknown 90ft
4 TR 5.10-Unknown 100ft
5 Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley 5.11Unknown 120ft
6 Mr. Roger's Neighborhood 5.8Unknown 150ft
7 The Keye 5.8Unknown 160ft
8 * Yvonne 5.9Unknown 110ft

1.1.10. Giant Mountain 0 routes in Area

1.1.11. Bark Eater Cliffs 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mr. Clean 5.8Unknown 60ft
2 Yakapodu 5.6Unknown 90ft
3 Barking up the Wrong Climb 5.8Unknown 90ft
4 Good Dough 5.5Unknown 80ft
5 *** Eat Yourself a Pie 5.8Unknown 130ft
6 *** Big Bertha 5.6Unknown 60ft
7 *** Fun City 5.7Unknown 100ft

1.1.12. Hurricane 3 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Quadrophenia 5.7Trad 350ft
2 Xenolith 5.8Unknown 350ft
3 Old Route 5.4Unknown 350ft

1.2. Cascade Pass 43 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: -73.855835, 44.238853

Description:

route 73 between Keene and Lake Placid

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * The Cascade WI2Ice 250ft

1.2.1. Pitchoff Chimney Cliff 42 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:

Amazing pitch on North side of the 73 in Cascade pass between Lake Placid and Keene.

It close to the road, with easy acces, and so has well developed climbing on it.

Approach:

Park at the pull-out near the left end of the cliff -- it will have a sign that says "Pitchoff Walls" with a symbol of a rock climber. The trail starts directly opposite the east-end of this pull-out.

If this pull-out is full, not uncommon as this is a popular cliff, any of the other pull-outs can be used as there are several along this section.

Descent Notes:

Rap station at the chimney edge or walk-off on the left

1.2.1.1. Roaches Terrace 15 routes in Sector
Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:

This is a tree-covered ledge at the left end of the cliff, above an area of vegetated (and not generally climbed) cliffs.

Approach:

Take the left fork of the approach trail, hike to the waterfall, then back right along the base of the cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Vermontville Redneck 5.10cTop rope 60ft
2 Anniversary Waltz 5.10cTrad 75ft
3 Uncontrollable Desires 5.8Trad 100ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 * Rock and Roll Star 5.10cTrad 100ft
5 ** Flying Squirrels 5.11b RTrad 100ft
6 *** Roaches on the Wall 5.10Trad 100ft
7 Waiting for the Son 5.11b RTrad 110ft
8 Roof

This climb starts at the anchors above the triple cracks where several of the previous routes ("Uncontrollable Desires" to "Waiting for the Son" end. Or, it can be approached by trail from below by hiking up the left side of the cliff.

Walk right along the ledge to a large left-facing corner capped by a roof. Climb up the corner to the roof, then out through a crack to block terrain above it.

5.9Trad 40ft
9 * Walder-Calder Route

Up then a long (slightly rising) traverse right, then up again.

5.9Trad 190ft

The next three climbs (Too Early Spring through Rainy Night Toads) all branch off from "Walder-Calder Route" at various points along it, all branching up as Walder-Calder continues rightwards.

10 Too Early Spring 5.9Trad 140ft
11 Easy Off 5.8Trad 140ft
12 Rainy Night Toads 5.8Trad 140ft
13 Too Burly Bulls 5.10bTrad 140ft
14 Slash and Burn 5.11+Top rope 150ft
15 *** Running of the Bulls 5.11bTrad 140ft
1.2.1.2. Low Center 3 routes in Sector
Summary:
All Trad
Description:

A few routes start low in the center of the wall -- right of Roaches Terrace, and left of the Practice Wall.

Approach:

Take the right fork in the trail, then at the base of the cliff, walk back left along the cliff to the routes.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Walking the Tightrope 5.12aTrad 65ft
2 ** Raging Raven 5.11bTrad 70ft
3 Widow Maker 5.12b RTrad 140ft
1.2.1.3. Practice Wall 1 route in Sector
Summary:
Top Rope and Trad
Description:

This is an area of low-angle slab along the base of the cliff. Top of the slab is easily accessible from the right, and this is often used for top-ropes and easy/practice leads. Most anywhere along the wall goes at about 5.3.

Approach:

Take the right fork in the approach trail, then continue right along the base until you are below obvious easy slabs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Practice Wall / Practice Slab

At the centre of the base of the cliff is a short slab with a variety of cracks in it. Many variations are possible, most in the 5.3-5.4 range. This area is, also, often top-roped because of easy access to the ledge at the top (from either end) and a number of convenient trees for anchoring off.

As the main trail reaches the wall, take the right branch, and this will descend a bit and lead under the Practice Wall. If you continue far enough to reach a section of talus with water running down it, that is past the end -- but hiking up this then a bit of scramble up and left will give access for top-ropes. (And, to the start of "Pete's Farewell", etc.

5.4Trad
1.2.1.4. Above the Practice Wall 17 routes in Sector
Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:

These are a set of routes that start from the wide treed ledge above the "Practice Wall".

Many of the climbs from here start up the first pitch of "Pete's Farewell" and then branch from there, or from various places along the traverse pitch.

Approach:

Take the right branch of the approach trail, then continue along the base of the cliff across the base of the Practice Wall, at the end where the ground gets damp, turn left, and scramble up and onto the ledge above the practice wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Dynamo Hum 5.9Trad 190ft
2 ** Run Higher, Jump Faster 5.11bTrad 160ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 PF Flyers' Flying Circus

Ends at belay 2 of "Pete's Farewell".

5.7 A2Aid 100ft
4 Chuting Star

Ends at the traverse on "The El", not really a complete route in and of itself.

5.7 A2Aid 40ft
5 ** The Lonely

This "route" is more of a direct start to the routes in the "Above the Practice Wall Area" of Pitchoff. It starts in the same spot that Pete's Farewell does, but essentially goes left instead of right and ends up spitting you out right around the middle of the traverse line of the second pitch of every climb in this area. From there you can link it up to whatever your heart desires. In more detail, you start by scrambling on to the first big ledge in the first pitch of Pete's Farewell. From here, break left into a series of left rising, right facing corners. Work up to and overhang which you clear on the far left side. Find and climb up the gently left rising crack which eventually puts out on the traverse line.

5.6Trad 60ft
6 *** The El
  1. 5.2 G. 40ft. Same as first pitch of "Pete's Farewell".

  2. 5.7 G. 60ft. Traverse left, then more left, then still more left, until below a vertical crack.

  3. 5.8 G. 80ft. Climb up the vertical crack then up corner to top.

FA: Grant Calder, John Wald

5.8Trad 200ft
7 *** Pete's Farwell

This climb starts on the ledge above the "Practice Wall", and is generally approached from the scramble up the right side. Once reaching the top of the ledge, the route starts at the left end of a short wall, just right of a low roof about 8ft up.

  1. 5.2 G. Boulder up the left side of the short wall to a ledge, walk back along the ledge to a deep right-facing corner, and climb the left face of this for a short way, traverse left to the corner and belay on the good ledge. 40ft.

  2. 5.6 G. Traverse left from the belay, then diagonally up and left towards the obvious right-facing corner, then up that corner to a good ledge with a small tree. 75ft.

  3. 5.7 G. Traverse left from to a hand crack that angles up and left. Climb up this crack (crux is the first couple meters) to the top. 50ft.

FA: Pete Gibb, Dave Gilyeat

5.7Trad 150ft

The next 5 climbs all start somewhere along the traverse section of "Pete's Farewell", all branching upwards while Pete's continues to traverse.

8 Eurotech

Starts at the P2 belay for "Pete's Farewell". Walk a short bit left from the belay, then head up to a horizontal with a bolt above it. Up this face, then crack above it.

5.11cTrad 60ft
9 * PF Flyers

Start at the pitch 2 belay for "Pete's Farewell". Looking up there is an obvious bolt... climb the face and flake past the bolt to a hand-crack to the top.

5.10aTrad 60ft
10 ** Hidden Constellations

From the P1 belay for "Pete's Farewell", follow the traverse until it starts to rise. At this point climb up the right-facing corner to a thin crack and upwards zig-zagging left, then right, at horizontals.

5.11dTrad 100ft
11 * Star Sailor

From the P1 belay for "Pete's Farewell", only traverse left a few feet, then go up the face to a finger-crack, and follow discontinuous cracks to the top.

5.10cTrad 60ft
12 Disputed

From the P1 belay of "Pete's Farewell", go directly up from the belay to find a hand crack that parallels the big corner a bit left of it. Follow this to anchors.

5.8Trad 60ft
13 * Great Chimney

Start as for "Pete's Farewell".

  1. 5.6 G Continue up into the obvious chimney, and up past chock-stones to an anchor in the right wall.

  2. 5.5 G Scramble up and left over blocks (3rd class) to a thin vertical crack on the left (highway-) side of the wall. Stem up the chimney to a notch in the outside wall, and step left to the (fixed) anchor for "Disputed".

  3. 5.2 G. Optional. Go back up the notch, then up the step wall to its top. Continue along the rim, then down-climb to the boulders at the top of "Pete's Farewell". (Most don't bother as this is more scramble than climb.)

5.6Trad 100ft

The following 4 routes follow "Pete's Farewell"/'Great Chimney" until the ledge that is at the base of the chimney, then branch off rightwards from there.

14 Crack Mechanic 5.11cTrad 100ft
15 ** Coffee Achievers 5.10bTrad 100ft
16 Wild Man from Borneo

(finishes with P2 of "Brrright Star")

5.10bTrad 130ft
17 Upright and Locked

(finishes with P2 of "Brrright Star")

5.10c RTrad 120ft
1.2.1.5. Right End 6 routes in Sector
Summary:
Trad, Top Rope and Ice
Description:

Climbs starting from the right end of the wall.

A few climbs share the start of Rugosity.

Approach:

Take the right branch on the approach trail, and then continue along the base of the cliff, past the Practice Wall and the wet area to the base of these climbs.

Or, possibly, approach from a trail from the pull-out near the eastern end of the cliff. (Not in the guide. But there was some evidence people had done this.)

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rugusity 5.8 RTrad 120ft
2 ** Bogosity

A link-up. P1 of "Rugosity" to P2 of "Bogeyman", giving a far better route than either of the other two.

5.8Trad 120ft
3 Etiquette

Climbs a crack up a short buttress to a tree.

5.6Trad 30ft
4 Rules

Somewhat contrived -- climb the face between the crack to the left "Etiquette" and the arete to the right, strictly without using either.

Probably best as a top-rope after leading "Etiquette".

5.9 RTrad 30ft
5 Bogeyman 5.8Trad 160ft
6 Pitchoff Right WI3Ice

1.2.2. Owl's Head Mountain 0 routes in Crag

Unique Features And Strengths:

nice cliff, easy walk up, nice sunny cracks

Description:

A nice little nob that has some great views, relaxed ambiance, and some nice clean (albeit short/easy) crack climbs right at the summit. The vantage point here may be the best part...as one is climbing on the cliff they can expect great views of Pitchoff, Cascade, Hurricane, and Giant mountains. A very popular hiking trail, so expect some curious glances when you top out on the summit.

Rock is clean for the most part, a little lichen here and there to keep things interesting. Top-roping may be done with prodigious use of static line (trees are far back), or by building a gear anchor.

Given the sunny exposure, I can imagine warm rock climbing can take place here well into the early winter and in the spring.

Access Issues:

Trail crosses private land, take care so that we keep access

Approach:

Park at Owl's Head Lane, located 3.1 miles from the 73/9 intersection (driving from Keene to Lake Placid), on the left. Park at a side road a short distance up the road, next to the trail sign. A quick mile to the summit, and a gully on the right becomes prominent just before the actual summit. The cliff base is down this gully.

1.3. Avalanche Pass 2 routes in Area

Summary:
Ice and Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Trap Dike

Classic historical climb in the Adirondacks. Reputed to be the first technical ascent back in 1850. Ascend the dike then exit to slab, follow slide to the summit. A good Ice and Snow climb as well.

Class 4Unknown 2000ft
2 *** Trap Dike - ICE

FA: Jim Goodwin

WI2Ice 2000ft

1.4. Gothics 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Sport
Description:

The Gothics is a peak of about 4800' in the High Peaks area of the Adirondack park. There are three main climbing zones up Gothics -- the North Face, a 1200' slab, the south face -- about 600' of slab, and the Rainbow Slide on the east face. The approaches tend to be fairly long and involved, and the routes fairly serious for their grade.

The Gothics peak on google maps: http://maps.google.ca/?ll=44.127367,-73.85366&spn=0.026831,0.066047&t=p&z=15

1.4.1. South Face 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad and Sport
Description:

The south face of the Gothics. A 600' (200m) or so south-facing cliff on the Gothics. Generally slab, with the occasionally steeper section and headwall or overlap to add excitement.

Approach:

The approach is long and involved. (The Adirondack Rock guide book says "3.5 hours, difficult". Maybe you could do it in 3.5 hours if you were super-fit.)

Parking is at the juncture of the Ausauble Club road and highway 73. Walk up the Ausauble club road, to the tennis courts and turn left on there to Lake Road (private road, gravel) and hike up to Ausauble lake. (About 3.5 miles, 800' altitude gain.) From there, cross the river and follow the trail for Gothics (or Gothics by way of Pyramid peak). This takes you up 2500' to Pyramid peak in about 2 more miles. (From the peak, you will have an excellent view of Gothics peak south face (to the left of the peak) and the Rainbow Slide (to the right of the peak). Hike down the trail into the col between the two peaks, and then in the 15' or so flat section, turn left of the trail and bushwhack into a drainage gully. Descend this gully through some 4th class sections (steep, mossy, and wet), and as the gulley starts to peter out, turn right and traverse to the base of the north face.

Descent Notes:

Bushwhack from the top of the cliff to the hiking trail.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Original Route

Mostly 3rd and 4th class climbing up a long left-leaning crack then slabs with a 5.4 crux (getting from the crack up onto the slabs).

5.4Trad 400ft
2 ** Tea and Biscuits 5.10aTrad 120ft
3 South Face Direct 5.10aSport 260ft, 8
4 ** Gothic Arch

This ascends the longest line on the south face, with long pitches, no fixed anchors, and some very good climbing. A 70m rope is strongly recommended.

Find the obvious long arch about 70' (20m) above the base, and the long black streak running all the way down the cliff and over the arch (for which the climb is named). The climb starts up a short slab just to the left of the arch.

  1. 80' (26m) 5.6 PG. Climb the slab to a vegetated ledge, then up and right to a wide ledge with a big crack to its right.
  2. 200' (65m) 5.5 PG. Ascend the wide crack, then traverse right on ledges (and accross the black streak) then up and right on flakes towards the right end of the headwall. Setup a semi-hanging belay in the featured rock of the headwall (lots of places along the headwall work).
  3. 210' (70m) 5.6 G (5.2X). Climb the headwall where it goes (lots of choices) and onto a broad pock-marked slab. Up the slab past a short vertical crack (optional belay if running short of rope), then more easy climbing to a tree belay on the left side of the tree peninsula. (I had problem finding a belay anywhere near the low points of this tree peninsula, given that the route goes right, it might be better to look for a tree belay on the right side of the island.
  4. 150' (50m) 5.4 PG. Step right (or is that bushwhack right through the trees?) and go up vegetation to the right of the tree peninsula to a slab beneath an overlap. Up the slab and belay at the overlap.
  5. 80' (26m) 5.6 PG. Step left, and climb the overlap to a crack and then up to the next overlap. Move left 30' (10m), then up a small flake and continue to a 3rd overlap. Climb the overlap then move up and right to the trees for a belay.
  6. 80' (26m) 5.6 PG. Up a slab to an overlap, then climb the overlap to a left-arching crack. Follow the crack left, then climb up and right to the top of the slide. Belay from the trees.

Exit by bushwhacking up and right to the trail between Gothics and Pyramid peaks. (About 50-100' of bushwhacking.)

5.6 XTrad 800ft
5 Goodwin Route

Climbs the right edge of the south face, up easy slabs to a narrow slide that ends a bit beneath the hiking trail. Shares the last 3 pitches with "Gothic Arch".

  1. 200' (65m) 3rd class.
  2. 200' (65m) 3rd class.
  3. 60' (20m) 5.4 PG
  4. 60' (20m) 5.4 PG
  5. 80' (26m) 5.6 PG
  6. 80 (26m) 5.6 PG
5.6Trad 680ft

1.4.2. North Face 0 routes in Sector

Description:

The north face of the Gothics. A large, not very steep slab with a number of scrambles.

1.4.3. Rainbow Slide 0 routes in Sector

Description:

An east-facing slide on the Gothics.

1.5. Wallface 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Alpine
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** The Diagonal 5.8 IIIAlpine 860ft

1.6. Roger's Rock 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 the matrix 5.7Unknown 660ft
2 *** Little Finger

FA: Jim Kolocotronis, Bob Perlee

5.5Unknown 550ft
3 *** Little Finger Direct 5.7Unknown 500ft
4 screamin' meaney 5.7Unknown 520ft

1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine 142 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: -73.503250, 44.396753

Unique Features And Strengths:

Lots of good, longish, routes with easy approaches.

Description:

Poke-O Moonshine is a mountain in the north-east of the Adirondack park. It has a number of cliffs on it, though the main climbing is on the east face of the mountain, the (up to) 400' "Main Face", the south face is less steep, with the 500' Poke-O Moonshine Slab. There are various other cliffs above the main face, and upwards towards the peak.

Access Issues:

Most of the cliffs are on state land, but the land between the Main Face and the highway, as well as much of the northern section of the Main Face are on private land. For this, park at the campground, pay the fee ($1.00 as of 2007) and follow the trails from there.

Approach:

10-25 minutes, generally easy.

Usually park at the campground and take the trails from there, but the slab would be approached from farther south on US 9.

Where To Stay:

Poke-O Moonshine Campground. It is right there.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 High and Dry 5.9Unknown
2 Bushmaster 5.12Unknown
3 Big Buddha 5.12Unknown
4 Bushido 5.11Unknown
5 Bodacious 5.12Unknown
6 Pearly Gates 5.9Unknown
7 Kaibob 5.8Unknown
8 Battle Creek 5.10Unknown
9 Certified Raw 5.10Unknown
10 Mother's Day Variation 5.9Unknown
11 Phase Three 5.9Unknown
12 Bastard 5.11Unknown
13 Ladder 5.7Unknown
14 Discord 5.8Unknown
15 Womb with a View 5.11Unknown
16 Bathtub Virgin 5.9Unknown
17 Gartar 5.7Unknown
18 Snake 5.4Unknown
19 Slime Line 5.9Unknown
20 Firing Line 5.11bUnknown
21 Psychosis 5.9Unknown
22 Microwave 5.10dUnknown
23 Remembering Youth 5.12Unknown
24 Forget Bullet 5.11Unknown
25 Rattlesnake 5.10bUnknown
26 Freedom Flight 5.10bUnknown
27 Pillar 5.7Unknown
28 Autumn Flare 5.10dUnknown
29 Superstition Traverse 5.7Unknown
30 Spooks 5.11dUnknown
31 The Howling 5.12bUnknown
32 Salad Days 5.13aUnknown
33 Pentecostal 5.12bUnknown
34 Verdon 5.11bUnknown
35 Homecoming 5.9Unknown
36 Ukiah 5.9Unknown
37 Raindance 5.7Unknown
38 Libido 5.11aUnknown
39 Snake Slide 5.8Unknown
40 Scorpion 5.11aUnknown
41 Rodeo Man 5.10dUnknown
42 Summer Solstice 5.11aUnknown
43 Wild Blue 5.11aUnknown
44 Home Run Derby 5.11bUnknown
45 Karmic Kickback 5.11bUnknown
46 FM 5.7Trad
47 FM Direct 5.9Unknown
48 Sky Traverse 5.8Unknown
49 Nose Traverse 5.7Trad
50 Silver Streak 5.11bUnknown
51 Spectacular Rising Traverse 5.8Unknown
52 Body Snatcher 5.9Unknown
53 The Snatch

FA: Gary Allen, Geoff Smith, Pat Munn

5.10bUnknown 240ft
54 Knights in Armor 5.10dUnknown
55 Great Dihedral 5.9Unknown
56 Changing of the Guard 5.9Unknown
57 Sea of Seams 5.8Unknown
58 Half Mile 5.7Unknown
59 Sea Tips 5.10dUnknown
60 Mogster 5.12bUnknown
61 Son of Slime 5.10bUnknown
62 Positive Thinking 5.9 WI5Ice
63 P.T. Pillar 5.8Unknown
64 Macho 5.11bUnknown
65 P.T. Pillar Right 5.8Unknown
66 Cooney-Norton Face 5.10bUnknown
67 Cosmopolitan Wall 5.10bUnknown
68 Unnamed 5.11bUnknown
69 Central Rappel Route Unknown
70 Excitable Boy A2Aid
71 Save the Rock for Uncle Sam 5.12bUnknown
72 Ragtime 5.10dUnknown
73 True Grit 5.11bUnknown
74 The Sting 5.8Unknown
75 *** Gamesmanship

FA: John Turner, Brian Rothery, Wilfried Twelker

5.8Trad 510ft
76 Gamesmanship Direct Finish 5.8Unknown
77 Southern Hospitality 5.11dUnknown
78 Psalm 32 5.12bUnknown
79 Bloody Mary 5.9Unknown
80 Gun Control 5.11bUnknown
81 Fastest Gun 5.10bUnknown
82 Fastest Gun Goombay Finish 5.10bUnknown
83 Fastest Gun McCarthy Offwidth 5.10bUnknown
84 Pinhead 5.9Unknown
85 The Cooler 5.8Unknown
86 The Gathering 5.11bUnknown 500ft
87 Extreme Unction 5.11bUnknown 180ft
88 Sailor's Dive 5.11bUnknown 500ft
89 Calvary Hill 5.12bUnknown 250ft
90 Messiah 5.12bUnknown 500ft
91 Foreplay 5.11bUnknown 140ft
92 It Don't Come Easy 5.10dUnknown 500ft
93 Snow Blue 5.11bUnknown 600ft
94 Worse Than Real 5.6Unknown 400ft
95 Raptor's Scream 5.12bUnknown 80ft
96 Neurosis 5.6Unknown 400ft
97 Free Swing 5.10bUnknown 180ft
98 Royal Savage 5.10bUnknown 150ft
99 The Natural 5.10bUnknown 80ft
100 Home Rule 5.10bUnknown 160ft
101 Neurosis Direct A1Aid 180ft
102 Pomme de Terre 5.10bUnknown 180ft
103 Scallion 5.10bTrad 150ft
104 Macintosh 5.10dUnknown 180ft
105 Green Onion 5.9Trad 180ft
106 Grapes of Wrath 5.11bUnknown 150ft
107 A.S. 5.10bUnknown
108 Quo Vadis 5.11bUnknown 80ft
109 La Spirale 5.10dUnknown 80ft
110 Thunderhead 5.10dUnknown 150ft
111 Lightning 5.9Unknown 150ft
112 Cirrhosis 5.9Unknown 150ft
113 End Game 5.10dUnknown 150ft
114 Dicentra 5.10bUnknown 75ft
115 Amongst the Crowd 5.11bUnknown 400ft
116 Paralysis 5.8Trad 480ft
117 Annie's Dilemma 5.11bUnknown
118 Orchestra 5.10bUnknown 150ft
119 Maestro 5.10bUnknown 140ft
120 Macrobiotic 5.10aUnknown
121 Moonshine 5.10dUnknown 350ft
122 Tachycardia 5.12bUnknown 350ft
123 Sunburst Arete 5.8Unknown 300ft
124 The Real 208 5.9Unknown 150ft
125 Paper Walls 5.10dUnknown
126 En Vivo 5.11dUnknown
127 Rare Earth 5.9Unknown 150ft
128 Parabolic Cats 5.12aUnknown
129 Lichenstorm

FA: Mark Meschinelli, Dave Hough

5.9Unknown 150ft
130 The Water Fall WI5Ice

1.7.1. Main Face 0 routes in Area

Description:

The Main, eastern-facing, Face

1.7.2. Poke-O Slab 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: -73.503250, 44.396753

Description:

The south-face slab.

Generally friction routes on lower-angled rock. Protection tends to be moderate.

Approach:

Park about 1/2 mile south of the campground on US 9, and hike the trail accross from the speed limit 55 sign.

Descent Notes:

Rappels on some routes -- or hike accross to the Poke-O Moonshine mountain hiking trail and down to the campground.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Catharsis

On route 9, entrance is at the speed limit sign: http://goo.gl/2k3bJE

5.5 RTrad 490ft
2 * Last Chance 5.7 RTrad 570ft
3 Good Intentions 5.7 XTrad 220ft
4 Arch Traverse 5.8Trad 160ft
5 Hunter's Moon 5.10b XTrad 300ft
6 The Arch 5.9 RTrad 410ft
7 Inner Space 5.11a XTrad 340ft
8 New Star 5.10c RTrad 340ft
9 Twilight 5.11b XTrad 340ft
10 Le Poisson 5.6 RTrad 140ft
11 *** Space Walk 5.9 XTrad 490ft
12 Razor's Edge 5.10aTrad 75ft

1.7.3. Upper Tiers 0 routes in Area

Description:

A variety of cliffs higher up on the mountain.

1.8. baker mtn 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 TB 5.7Unknown 65ft
2 Not TB 5.9Unknown 65ft
3 Cure Cottage 5.8Unknown 70ft

1.9. Mekenzie Pond Boulders 20 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

1.9.1. First Set 20 routes in Area

Summary:
1.9.1.1. Front Boulder 12 routes in Area
Summary:
All Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Hooker V3Boulder
2 Looker V1Boulder
3 Cooker V1Boulder
4 $5 Bet V2Boulder
5 Slabs V0-Boulder
6 Slobadon V5Boulder
7 Tommy the Cat V9Boulder
8 McMidgetson V2Boulder
9 McMidgetson Variation V3Boulder
10 Slice V1Boulder
11 Block Top V2Boulder
12 Providence V5Boulder
1.9.1.2. Sweet Pea 0 routes in Area
1.9.1.3. Makaia 8 routes in Area
Summary:
All Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Zealot V2Boulder
2 Makaia's Problem V1Boulder
3 Carpenter's Daughter V1Boulder
4 Take Off V2Boulder
5 Lift Off V3Boulder
6 Rebar V3Boulder
7 The Blister Bar V3Boulder
8 Straight Bar V3Boulder
1.9.1.4. Satellite 1 0 routes in Area
1.9.1.5. Pathogen 0 routes in Area
1.9.1.6. Super Slab 0 routes in Area
1.9.1.7. IF Boulder 0 routes in Area

1.9.2. Second Set 0 routes in Area

1.9.3. Third Set 0 routes in Area

1.10. Pharoah Mountain 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Ice
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pharoah - Main Flow WI3+Ice

1.11. Notch Mountain Slab 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** And She Was 5.2Unknown 80ft
2 * T.L. 5.5Unknown 80ft
3 Fat-Free Warrior 5.5Unknown 300ft

1.12. Crane Mountain 10 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
Description:

Located off the beaten track (a.k.a. The Northway), Crane Mountain is a popular hiking destination that is also dotted with cliffs, crags, and boulders. Some of these areas are minutes from the trailhead, others lie two hour's strenuous and uncertain bushwhacking to reach. The Boulderwoods are the most convenient and popular locale, and with about a hundred problems recorded, provide plenty of entertainment for boulderers. The Measles Walls lie fifteen mintues east of the trailhead. This collection of short crags has the only cluster of sport routes, along with a few trad lines. It isn't a major destination, but when time is limited or the weather too cold for long routes, these fill the void. Continuing east, several small crags lie along height of land. These have seen recent development, and now hold some excellent short routes, as well as longer, alpine-style meandering lines. The eastern path ends at the Black Arches Wall, where some of the best climbing on Crane Mountain can be found. Following the hiker's trail north toward the summit, climbers will find crags like Tablerock Corner and the Viewpoint Slab to pass some time; or they can head directly to the top for any of dozens of great routes there. With the publishing of the new guidebook, Adirondack Rock, a few of these climbing areas are now visited frequently. Still, none of the crags is ever crowded.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Cornerstone 5.5Unknown 50ft
2 ** Providence 5.6Unknown 260ft
3 *** Straits of Fear 5.8Unknown 320ft
4 *** Thank You Cindy 5.7Unknown 100ft
5 ** Chicken Flake 5.7Unknown 150ft
6 ** Bulwark 5.7Unknown 25ft
7 *** Sun Dogs 5.9Unknown 200ft
8 ** Morning Star 5.3Unknown 270ft
9 ** Vertical Ag and Tech 5.7Unknown 140ft
10 Upper Level Disturbance 5.7Unknown 300ft

1.13. Huckleberry Mountain 0 routes in Area

1.14. Shanty Cliffs 0 routes in Area

1.15. Buck Mountain 0 routes in Area

1.16. Old Forge Region 8 routes in Area

Summary:
Boulder and Trad

Long/Lat: -74.963308, 43.730145

1.16.1. Flatrock Boulders 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: -75.066969, 43.667753

Unique Features And Strengths:

Easy access to clean bouldering

Description:

A collection of boulders found along NY 28.

Access Issues:

The boulder field is in the Flatrock Mountain Demonstration Forest. Although not public land, New York has negotiated public use of the land following the same regulations for state land use.

Approach:

Head north on 28 towards Old Forge. About a tenth of a mile past Scusa road, look for a gravel road on the right. Park on the side of this gravel road.

1.16.1.1. Phone Line Group 6 routes in Field
Summary:

Long/Lat: -75.067417, 43.668150

1.16.1.1.1. Splitrock 6 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: -75.067417, 43.668150

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Santa Maria Boulder Project
2 Waiting for Columbus V2Boulder
3 Pinta Boulder Project
4 Birdfeet V4Boulder 10ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 Freshet Arete V0Boulder 20ft
6 Loopy Hooper V0Boulder 20ft

1.16.2. Bald Mountain 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: -74.918896, 43.735509

Approach:

Park at the turnout at the intersection of CR216 and NY 28. Follow the obvious snowmobile path until you reach the no trespassing signs. Follow the well posted signs to the base of the cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Easy Squeeze

Follow the awkward chimney up to a face to the top.

5.3Trad 120ft
2 Where's the Booty?

Climb the crack and right hand open book left of Zig-Zag. Fixed anchor at the top.

5.5Trad 60ft

1.16.3. Moss Lake Slab 0 routes in Cliff

Description:

A large slab in the middle of a forest.

Approach:

Follow the northern path around the lake and at the western edge bushwhack a half mile in to the slab.

1.17. High Peaks Wilderness 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad

1.17.1. North-West Wright Face 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Description:

A small 60 foot high cliff nestled beneath the summits of Wright and Algonquin. Clean rock and beautiful views.

Approach:

A long 3 mile approach from Adirondack Loj towards the summit of Wright.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Wright Wrong Chimney 5.3Trad 60ft
2 Stratojet

FA: Vincent McLain, 23rd Jun

5.2Trad 40ft

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
Class 4 *** Trap Dike Unknown 2000ft 1.3. Avalanche Pass
5.0 Far Left Unknown 40ft 1.1.2. Noonmark Mountain
5.2 ** And She Was Unknown 80ft 1.11. Notch Mountain Slab
Stratojet Trad 40ft 1.17.1. North-West Wright Face
WI2 * The Cascade Ice 250ft 1.2. Cascade Pass
*** Trap Dike - ICE Ice 2000ft 1.3. Avalanche Pass
5.3 Chimney Crack Unknown 40ft 1.1.2. Noonmark Mountain
Bob's Knob Standard Trad 840ft 1.1.4. Chapel Pond Slab
Jugs of Beer Trad 40ft 1.1.8.5.7. Live Free or Die Area
** Morning Star Unknown 270ft 1.12. Crane Mountain
Easy Squeeze Trad 120ft 1.16.2. Bald Mountain
Wright Wrong Chimney Trad 60ft 1.17.1. North-West Wright Face
5.4 3.2 Trad 40ft 1.1.8.3. Upper Beer Wall
Diagonal Chockstone Chimney Trad 140ft 1.1.8.5.4. Pegasus Area
Old Route Unknown 350ft 1.1.12. Hurricane
Practice Wall Trad 1.2.1.3. Practice Wall
Original Route Trad 400ft 1.4.1. South Face
Snake Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
5.5 Fire Starter Unknown 1.1.3. Creature Wall
* Empress Trad 700ft 1.1.4. Chapel Pond Slab
** Regular Route Trad 780ft 1.1.4. Chapel Pond Slab
Buffalo Soldier Trad 160ft 1.1.5. Upper Washbowl
5.58 Trad 40ft 1.1.8.1. Entrance Wall
* Guinness Trad 40ft 1.1.8.3. Upper Beer Wall
* Afternoon Delight Trad 60ft 1.1.8.5.1. Afternoon Delight Area
Coors Corner Trad 120ft 1.1.8.5.3. Dihedrals Area
** Redrum Trad 110ft 1.1.8.5.3. Dihedrals Area
Backs Against the Wall Trad 150ft 1.1.8.5.5. Clutch and Cruise Cave
Moosehead Trad 130ft 1.1.8.5.6. Right End
Scratch Trad 50ft 1.1.8.6. Corner Pocket
Amateur's Edge Trad 140ft 1.1.8.8.2. Shotgun Face
Gunpowder Corner Unknown 90ft 1.1.8.8.2. Shotgun Face
Good Dough Unknown 80ft 1.1.11. Bark Eater Cliffs
*** Little Finger Unknown 550ft 1.6. Roger's Rock
*** Catharsis Trad 490ft 1.7.2. Poke-O Slab
Fat-Free Warrior Unknown 300ft 1.11. Notch Mountain Slab
* T.L. Unknown 80ft 1.11. Notch Mountain Slab
*** Cornerstone Unknown 50ft 1.12. Crane Mountain
Where's the Booty? Trad 60ft 1.16.2. Bald Mountain
WI2 to WI3 * Chapel Pond Slab - ICE Ice 700ft 1.1.4. Chapel Pond Slab
5.6 * Diamond and Coal Trad 70ft 1.1.1. Jewels and Gems
** North Country Club Crack Trad 70ft 1.1.1. Jewels and Gems
Greensleeves Trad 350ft 1.1.4. Chapel Pond Slab
Victoria Trad 410ft 1.1.4. Chapel Pond Slab
** Wiessner route Trad 350ft 1.1.5. Upper Washbowl
Teetotaler Trad 25ft 1.1.8.2. Near Beer Wall
* CWI Trad 50ft 1.1.8.5.1. Afternoon Delight Area
*** Sword Trad 60ft 1.1.8.5.3. Dihedrals Area
Snooker Trad 50ft 1.1.8.6. Corner Pocket
*** Big Bertha Unknown 60ft 1.1.11. Bark Eater Cliffs
Yakapodu Unknown 90ft 1.1.11. Bark Eater Cliffs
* Great Chimney Trad 100ft 1.2.1.4. Above the Practice Wall
** The Lonely Trad 60ft 1.2.1.4. Above the Practice Wall
Etiquette Trad 30ft 1.2.1.5. Right End
Goodwin Route Trad 680ft 1.4.1. South Face
** Gothic Arch Trad 800ft 1.4.1. South Face
Neurosis Unknown 400ft 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Worse Than Real Unknown 400ft 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Le Poisson Trad 140ft 1.7.2. Poke-O Slab
** Providence Unknown 260ft 1.12. Crane Mountain
WI3 *** Chouinards Gully Ice 300ft 1.1.6. Chapel Pond Area
Pitchoff Right Ice 1.2.1.5. Right End
V0- Slabs Boulder 1.9.1.1. Front Boulder
5.7 In the Rough Trad 70ft 1.1.1. Jewels and Gems
Gob Hoblin Trad 1.1.3. Creature Wall
Eagle Crack Trad 120ft 1.1.4. Chapel Pond Slab
** Thanksgiving Trad 540ft 1.1.4. Chapel Pond Slab
BBC Trad 180ft 1.1.5. Upper Washbowl
Cul-de-Sac Trad 25ft 1.1.5. Upper Washbowl
*** Tilman's Arete Mixed 150ft, 1 1.1.6. Chapel Pond Area
Diet Coke Crack Trad 25ft 1.1.8.2. Near Beer Wall
** Seven Ounces Trad 40ft 1.1.8.3. Upper Beer Wall
* Spur of the Moment Trad 35ft 1.1.8.3.1. Cover Charge Area
** Labatt-Ami Trad 120ft 1.1.8.3.3. Frosted Mug Area
Dos Trad 170ft 1.1.8.5.2. Rockaholic Area
Block Party Trad 150ft 1.1.8.5.3. Dihedrals Area
** Lichenbrau Trad 170ft 1.1.8.5.4. Pegasus Area
* Fast and Furious Trad 55ft 1.1.8.5.7. Live Free or Die Area
Thrash Trad 20ft 1.1.8.5.7. Live Free or Die Area
Natural English Trad 50ft 1.1.8.6. Corner Pocket
Climb Free or Die Trying Trad 50ft 1.1.8.8.1. Lives of the Hunted Area
* Last Swim or Dive Trad 140ft 1.1.8.8.2. Shotgun Face
Standing Room Only Trad 140ft 1.1.8.8.2. Shotgun Face
*** Fun City Unknown 100ft 1.1.11. Bark Eater Cliffs
Quadrophenia Trad 350ft 1.1.12. Hurricane
*** Pete's Farwell Trad 150ft 1.2.1.4. Above the Practice Wall
*** Little Finger Direct Unknown 500ft 1.6. Roger's Rock
screamin' meaney Unknown 520ft 1.6. Roger's Rock
the matrix Unknown 660ft 1.6. Roger's Rock
FM Trad 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Gartar Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Half Mile Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Ladder Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Nose Traverse Trad 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Pillar Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Raindance Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Superstition Traverse Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Good Intentions Trad 220ft 1.7.2. Poke-O Slab
* Last Chance Trad 570ft 1.7.2. Poke-O Slab
TB Unknown 65ft 1.8. baker mtn
** Bulwark Unknown 25ft 1.12. Crane Mountain
** Chicken Flake Unknown 150ft 1.12. Crane Mountain
*** Thank You Cindy Unknown 100ft 1.12. Crane Mountain
Upper Level Disturbance Unknown 300ft 1.12. Crane Mountain
** Vertical Ag and Tech Unknown 140ft 1.12. Crane Mountain
5.7 A2 Chuting Star Aid 40ft 1.2.1.4. Above the Practice Wall
PF Flyers' Flying Circus Aid 100ft 1.2.1.4. Above the Practice Wall
WI3+ *** Roaring Brook Falls Ice 350ft 1.1. Keene
Haggis and Cold Toast Ice 1.1.7. Chapel Pond Canyon
Positive Reinforcement Ice 1.1.7. Chapel Pond Canyon
Pharoah - Main Flow Ice 1.10. Pharoah Mountain
5.8 * Family Jewels Mixed 65ft, 1 1.1.1. Jewels and Gems
Pearl Necklace Trad 65ft 1.1.1. Jewels and Gems
*** Wiessner Crack Unknown 90ft 1.1.2. Noonmark Mountain
Arachnid Traction Unknown 80ft 1.1.3. Creature Wall
Pet Cemetary Trad 90ft 1.1.3. Creature Wall
** Hesitation Trad 360ft 1.1.5. Upper Washbowl
Prelude Trad 230ft 1.1.5. Upper Washbowl
** Prelude to an Overture Trad 300ft 1.1.5. Upper Washbowl
Whoops Trad 350ft 1.1.5. Upper Washbowl
Tie Me Up Trad 40ft 1.1.8.1. Entrance Wall
40 Oz. to Freedom Trad 45ft 1.1.8.3. Upper Beer Wall
Fake ID Trad 90ft 1.1.8.3. Upper Beer Wall
* Detoxification Trad 90ft 1.1.8.5.2. Rockaholic Area
Equis Trad 100ft 1.1.8.5.2. Rockaholic Area
** Rockaholic Trad 80ft 1.1.8.5.2. Rockaholic Area
Quest Trad 150ft 1.1.8.5.3. Dihedrals Area
A-Frame Unknown 100ft 1.1.8.5.4. Pegasus Area
* Anteater Trad 150ft 1.1.8.5.4. Pegasus Area
Clutch and Cruise Trad 160ft 1.1.8.5.5. Clutch and Cruise Cave
Joey Baggadonuts Trad 150ft 1.1.8.5.5. Clutch and Cruise Cave
Lives of the Hunted Trad 50ft 1.1.8.8.1. Lives of the Hunted Area
Tita U. Assol Trad 40ft 1.1.8.8.1. Lives of the Hunted Area
Mr. Roger's Neighborhood Unknown 150ft 1.1.9. Spider's Web
The Keye Unknown 160ft 1.1.9. Spider's Web
Barking up the Wrong Climb Unknown 90ft 1.1.11. Bark Eater Cliffs
*** Eat Yourself a Pie Unknown 130ft 1.1.11. Bark Eater Cliffs
Mr. Clean Unknown 60ft 1.1.11. Bark Eater Cliffs
Xenolith Unknown 350ft 1.1.12. Hurricane
Easy Off Trad 140ft 1.2.1.1. Roaches Terrace
Rainy Night Toads Trad 140ft 1.2.1.1. Roaches Terrace
Uncontrollable Desires Trad 100ft 1.2.1.1. Roaches Terrace
Disputed Trad 60ft 1.2.1.4. Above the Practice Wall
*** The El Trad 200ft 1.2.1.4. Above the Practice Wall
Bogeyman Trad 160ft 1.2.1.5. Right End
** Bogosity Trad 120ft 1.2.1.5. Right End
Rugusity Trad 120ft 1.2.1.5. Right End
Discord Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
*** Gamesmanship Trad 510ft 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Gamesmanship Direct Finish Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Kaibob Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
P.T. Pillar Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
P.T. Pillar Right Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Paralysis Trad 480ft 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Sea of Seams Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Sky Traverse Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Snake Slide Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Spectacular Rising Traverse Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Sunburst Arete Unknown 300ft 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
The Cooler Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
The Sting Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Arch Traverse Trad 160ft 1.7.2. Poke-O Slab
Cure Cottage Unknown 70ft 1.8. baker mtn
*** Straits of Fear Unknown 320ft 1.12. Crane Mountain
5.8 III *** The Diagonal Alpine 860ft 1.5. Wallface
V0 Freshet Arete Boulder 20ft 1.16.1.1.1. Splitrock
Loopy Hooper Boulder 20ft 1.16.1.1.1. Splitrock
5.9 Coal Miner Trad 65ft 1.1.1. Jewels and Gems
In the Buff Trad 70ft 1.1.1. Jewels and Gems
Hamburger Helper Trad 120ft 1.1.4. Chapel Pond Slab
Mann Act Trad 90ft 1.1.5. Upper Washbowl
*** Partition Trad 200ft 1.1.5. Upper Washbowl
Zig-Zag Trad 60ft 1.1.8.1. Entrance Wall
Underage Drinking Trad 35ft 1.1.8.3. Upper Beer Wall
** Day's End Trad 45ft 1.1.8.3.1. Cover Charge Area
** Twist Off Trad 50ft 1.1.8.3.1. Cover Charge Area
*** Frosted Mug Trad 100ft 1.1.8.3.3. Frosted Mug Area
Lager-Rhythm Trad 150ft 1.1.8.3.3. Frosted Mug Area
(left of CWI) Top rope 50ft 1.1.8.5.1. Afternoon Delight Area
On Tap: Special Brew Trad 110ft 1.1.8.5.2. Rockaholic Area
Rolling Rock Trad 140ft 1.1.8.5.2. Rockaholic Area
Another Beer Walls Black Streak Trad 100ft 1.1.8.5.3. Dihedrals Area
Draught Dodger Trad 100ft 1.1.8.5.3. Dihedrals Area
Octoberfast Trad 120ft 1.1.8.5.3. Dihedrals Area
Mother Mantel Trad 100ft 1.1.8.5.4. Pegasus Area
** Pegasus Trad 140ft 1.1.8.5.4. Pegasus Area
Sumo Fly Unknown 150ft 1.1.8.5.5. Clutch and Cruise Cave
Barstool Direct Trad 50ft 1.1.8.5.6. Right End
Cue Ball Trad 110ft 1.1.8.5.6. Right End
** Live Free or Die Trad 40ft 1.1.8.5.7. Live Free or Die Area
No Fear Is Queer Trad 25ft 1.1.8.5.7. Live Free or Die Area
Esthesia Unknown 90ft 1.1.9. Spider's Web
Slim Pickens Unknown 90ft 1.1.9. Spider's Web
* Yvonne Unknown 110ft 1.1.9. Spider's Web
Roof Trad 40ft 1.2.1.1. Roaches Terrace
Too Early Spring Trad 140ft 1.2.1.1. Roaches Terrace
* Walder-Calder Route Trad 190ft 1.2.1.1. Roaches Terrace
* Dynamo Hum Trad 190ft 1.2.1.4. Above the Practice Wall
Rules Trad 30ft 1.2.1.5. Right End
Bathtub Virgin Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Bloody Mary Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Body Snatcher Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Changing of the Guard Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Cirrhosis Unknown 150ft 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
FM Direct Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Great Dihedral Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Green Onion Trad 180ft 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
High and Dry Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Homecoming Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Lichenstorm Unknown 150ft 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Lightning Unknown 150ft 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Mother's Day Variation Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Pearly Gates Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Phase Three Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Pinhead Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Psychosis Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Rare Earth Unknown 150ft 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Slime Line Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
The Real 208 Unknown 150ft 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Ukiah Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
*** Space Walk Trad 490ft 1.7.2. Poke-O Slab
The Arch Trad 410ft 1.7.2. Poke-O Slab
Not TB Unknown 65ft 1.8. baker mtn
*** Sun Dogs Unknown 200ft 1.12. Crane Mountain
WI4 Crystal Ice Tower Ice 1.1.6. Chapel Pond Area
Lions on the Beach Ice 1.1.7. Chapel Pond Canyon
5.10- TR Unknown 100ft 1.1.9. Spider's Web
5.10a Little Black Book Trad 60ft 1.1.1. Jewels and Gems
NCCC - V1 Top rope 70ft 1.1.1. Jewels and Gems
** Overture Trad 300ft 1.1.5. Upper Washbowl
Flying & Drinking and Drinking & Driving Trad 100ft 1.1.8.3.3. Frosted Mug Area
*** Blacksmith Trad 140ft 1.1.8.5.4. Pegasus Area
* Pine Shadows Trad 140ft 1.1.8.5.4. Pegasus Area
** Turbocharge Trad 150ft 1.1.8.5.4. Pegasus Area
* PF Flyers Trad 60ft 1.2.1.4. Above the Practice Wall
South Face Direct Sport 260ft, 8 1.4.1. South Face
** Tea and Biscuits Trad 120ft 1.4.1. South Face
Macrobiotic Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Razor's Edge Trad 75ft 1.7.2. Poke-O Slab
5.10b Shaky Spider Trad 70ft 1.1.1. Jewels and Gems
Third Time for Mrs. Robinson Trad 170ft 1.1.5. Upper Washbowl
Weekend Warrior Trad 360ft 1.1.5. Upper Washbowl
*** Neutron Brew Trad 130ft 1.1.8.3.2. The 5.10 Wall
*** Radioactive Trad 130ft 1.1.8.3.2. The 5.10 Wall
** Roaring Twenties Trad 150ft 1.1.8.3.2. The 5.10 Wall
*** Tequila Mockingbird Trad 130ft 1.1.8.3.2. The 5.10 Wall
Boiler Maker Trad 80ft 1.1.8.3.3. Frosted Mug Area
Duty Free Unknown 50ft 1.1.8.5.1. Afternoon Delight Area
Don's Top Rope Unknown 100ft 1.1.8.5.2. Rockaholic Area
Cold Stone Sober Trad 70ft 1.1.8.7. Dry Wall
Speakeasy Trad 70ft 1.1.8.7. Dry Wall
Mule Kick Unknown 75ft 1.1.8.8.1. Lives of the Hunted Area
Too Burly Bulls Trad 140ft 1.2.1.1. Roaches Terrace
** Coffee Achievers Trad 100ft 1.2.1.4. Above the Practice Wall
Wild Man from Borneo Trad 130ft 1.2.1.4. Above the Practice Wall
A.S. Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Cooney-Norton Face Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Cosmopolitan Wall Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Dicentra Unknown 75ft 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Fastest Gun Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Fastest Gun Goombay Finish Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Fastest Gun McCarthy Offwidth Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Free Swing Unknown 180ft 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Freedom Flight Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Home Rule Unknown 160ft 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Maestro Unknown 140ft 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Orchestra Unknown 150ft 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Pomme de Terre Unknown 180ft 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Rattlesnake Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Royal Savage Unknown 150ft 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Scallion Trad 150ft 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Son of Slime Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
The Natural Unknown 80ft 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
The Snatch Unknown 240ft 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Hunter's Moon Trad 300ft 1.7.2. Poke-O Slab
V1 Cooker Boulder 1.9.1.1. Front Boulder
Looker Boulder 1.9.1.1. Front Boulder
Slice Boulder 1.9.1.1. Front Boulder
Carpenter's Daughter Boulder 1.9.1.3. Makaia
Makaia's Problem Boulder 1.9.1.3. Makaia
5.10c ** Flashdance Trad 280ft 1.1.5. Upper Washbowl
*** No Comments from the Peanut Gallery Trad 130ft 1.1.8.3.2. The 5.10 Wall
* Standard Trad 130ft 1.1.8.3.2. The 5.10 Wall
Delirium Tremens Unknown 50ft 1.1.8.5.1. Afternoon Delight Area
Death Trap Trad 150ft 1.1.8.5.3. Dihedrals Area
Passion Corner Trad 60ft 1.1.8.5.3. Dihedrals Area
Supercharged Trad 80ft 1.1.8.5.4. Pegasus Area
Anniversary Waltz Trad 75ft 1.2.1.1. Roaches Terrace
* Rock and Roll Star Trad 100ft 1.2.1.1. Roaches Terrace
Vermontville Redneck Top rope 60ft 1.2.1.1. Roaches Terrace
* Star Sailor Trad 60ft 1.2.1.4. Above the Practice Wall
Upright and Locked Trad 120ft 1.2.1.4. Above the Practice Wall
New Star Trad 340ft 1.7.2. Poke-O Slab
5.10 Christine Unknown 90ft 1.1.3. Creature Wall
* Bouncer Trad 40ft 1.1.8.3. Upper Beer Wall
*** Roaches on the Wall Trad 100ft 1.2.1.1. Roaches Terrace
Battle Creek Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Certified Raw Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
5.10d * Wandering Lunatic Trad 90ft 1.1.8.5.3. Dihedrals Area
* Pat Tricks Trad 150ft 1.1.8.5.4. Pegasus Area
Pegasus Direct Trad 40ft 1.1.8.5.4. Pegasus Area
* Crack in the Woods Trad 40ft 1.1.8.9. Crack in the Woods Cliff
Autumn Flare Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
End Game Unknown 150ft 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
It Don't Come Easy Unknown 500ft 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Knights in Armor Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
La Spirale Unknown 80ft 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Macintosh Unknown 180ft 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Microwave Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Moonshine Unknown 350ft 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Paper Walls Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Ragtime Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Rodeo Man Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Sea Tips Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Thunderhead Unknown 150ft 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
5.9 WI5 Positive Thinking Ice 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
V2 $5 Bet Boulder 1.9.1.1. Front Boulder
Block Top Boulder 1.9.1.1. Front Boulder
McMidgetson Boulder 1.9.1.1. Front Boulder
Take Off Boulder 1.9.1.3. Makaia
Zealot Boulder 1.9.1.3. Makaia
Waiting for Columbus Boulder 1.16.1.1.1. Splitrock
WI5 Power Play Ice 1.1.6. Chapel Pond Area
The Water Fall Ice 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
5.11a * Flight into Emerald City Trad 90ft 1.1.5. Upper Washbowl
* Mastercraft Trad 120ft 1.1.5. Upper Washbowl
** Cover Charge Trad 70ft 1.1.8.3.1. Cover Charge Area
The Mouth That Roared Trad 150ft 1.1.8.3.2. The 5.10 Wall
Time Piece Trad 35ft 1.1.8.5.7. Live Free or Die Area
Libido Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Scorpion Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Summer Solstice Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Wild Blue Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Inner Space Trad 340ft 1.7.2. Poke-O Slab
5.11b * Mastercharge Trad 150ft 1.1.5. Upper Washbowl
* Till the Fat Lady Sings Trad 120ft 1.1.5. Upper Washbowl
** Prohibition Trad 130ft 1.1.8.3.2. The 5.10 Wall
* Tuesdays Trad 60ft 1.1.8.4. Flailing Wall
Crazy Fingers Trad 60ft 1.1.8.5.7. Live Free or Die Area
** Flying Squirrels Trad 100ft 1.2.1.1. Roaches Terrace
*** Running of the Bulls Trad 140ft 1.2.1.1. Roaches Terrace
Waiting for the Son Trad 110ft 1.2.1.1. Roaches Terrace
** Raging Raven Trad 70ft 1.2.1.2. Low Center
** Run Higher, Jump Faster Trad 160ft 1.2.1.4. Above the Practice Wall
Amongst the Crowd Unknown 400ft 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Annie's Dilemma Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Extreme Unction Unknown 180ft 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Firing Line Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Foreplay Unknown 140ft 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Grapes of Wrath Unknown 150ft 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Gun Control Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Home Run Derby Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Karmic Kickback Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Macho Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Quo Vadis Unknown 80ft 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Sailor's Dive Unknown 500ft 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Silver Streak Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Snow Blue Unknown 600ft 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
The Gathering Unknown 500ft 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
True Grit Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Unnamed Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Verdon Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Twilight Trad 340ft 1.7.2. Poke-O Slab
V3 Hooker Boulder 1.9.1.1. Front Boulder
McMidgetson Variation Boulder 1.9.1.1. Front Boulder
Lift Off Boulder 1.9.1.3. Makaia
Rebar Boulder 1.9.1.3. Makaia
Straight Bar Boulder 1.9.1.3. Makaia
The Blister Bar Boulder 1.9.1.3. Makaia
5.11c * Dark Horse Ail Trad 130ft 1.1.8.3.2. The 5.10 Wall
Crack Mechanic Trad 100ft 1.2.1.4. Above the Practice Wall
Eurotech Trad 60ft 1.2.1.4. Above the Practice Wall
5.11 D1 Top rope 65ft 1.1.1. Jewels and Gems
Red Hill Mining Town Unknown 40ft 1.1.8.3. Upper Beer Wall
Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley Unknown 120ft 1.1.9. Spider's Web
Bastard Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Bushido Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Forget Bullet Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Womb with a View Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
5.11 A0 Dog's Breakfast Trad 120ft 1.1.4. Chapel Pond Slab
5.11d Feet of Fire Trad 90ft 1.1.5. Upper Washbowl
Twelve-Step Program Unknown 100ft 1.1.8.3.3. Frosted Mug Area
* Pete's Wicked Flail Trad 50ft 1.1.8.4. Flailing Wall
Watch Crystal Trad 40ft 1.1.8.5.7. Live Free or Die Area
** Hidden Constellations Trad 100ft 1.2.1.4. Above the Practice Wall
En Vivo Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Southern Hospitality Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Spooks Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
5.11+ It's Only Entertainment Unknown 100ft 1.1.9. Spider's Web
Slash and Burn Top rope 150ft 1.2.1.1. Roaches Terrace
V4 Birdfeet Boulder 10ft 1.16.1.1.1. Splitrock
5.12a Too Wet to Plow Trad 100ft 1.1.5. Upper Washbowl
** Center Stage Mixed 150ft, 2 1.1.8.3.2. The 5.10 Wall
Walking the Tightrope Trad 65ft 1.2.1.2. Low Center
Parabolic Cats Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
5.12b Widow Maker Trad 140ft 1.2.1.2. Low Center
Calvary Hill Unknown 250ft 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Messiah Unknown 500ft 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Mogster Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Pentecostal Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Psalm 32 Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Raptor's Scream Unknown 80ft 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Save the Rock for Uncle Sam Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Tachycardia Unknown 350ft 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
The Howling Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
V5 Providence Boulder 1.9.1.1. Front Boulder
Slobadon Boulder 1.9.1.1. Front Boulder
5.12c ** Miller Light Trad 60ft 1.1.8.5.5. Clutch and Cruise Cave
5.12 Big Buddha Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Bodacious Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Bushmaster Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Remembering Youth Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
5.12d * The Never Recognized Me Trad 60ft 1.1.8.5.5. Clutch and Cruise Cave
5.13a Salad Days Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
V9 Tommy the Cat Boulder 1.9.1.1. Front Boulder
? Ice Slot Unknown 1.1.7. Chapel Pond Canyon
Central Rappel Route Unknown 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
Pinta Boulder Project 1.16.1.1.1. Splitrock
Santa Maria Boulder Project 1.16.1.1.1. Splitrock
A1 Neurosis Direct Aid 180ft 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine
A2 Excitable Boy Aid 1.7. Poke-O-Moonshine