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Description:

This ascends the longest line on the south face, with long pitches, no fixed anchors, and some very good climbing. A 70m rope is strongly recommended.

Find the obvious long arch about 70' (20m) above the base, and the long black streak running all the way down the cliff and over the arch (for which the climb is named). The climb starts up a short slab just to the left of the arch.

  1. 80' (26m) 5.6 PG. Climb the slab to a vegetated ledge, then up and right to a wide ledge with a big crack to its right.
  2. 200' (65m) 5.5 PG. Ascend the wide crack, then traverse right on ledges (and accross the black streak) then up and right on flakes towards the right end of the headwall. Setup a semi-hanging belay in the featured rock of the headwall (lots of places along the headwall work).
  3. 210' (70m) 5.6 G (5.2X). Climb the headwall where it goes (lots of choices) and onto a broad pock-marked slab. Up the slab past a short vertical crack (optional belay if running short of rope), then more easy climbing to a tree belay on the left side of the tree peninsula. (I had problem finding a belay anywhere near the low points of this tree peninsula, given that the route goes right, it might be better to look for a tree belay on the right side of the island.
  4. 150' (50m) 5.4 PG. Step right (or is that bushwhack right through the trees?) and go up vegetation to the right of the tree peninsula to a slab beneath an overlap. Up the slab and belay at the overlap.
  5. 80' (26m) 5.6 PG. Step left, and climb the overlap to a crack and then up to the next overlap. Move left 30' (10m), then up a small flake and continue to a 3rd overlap. Climb the overlap then move up and right to the trees for a belay.
  6. 80' (26m) 5.6 PG. Up a slab to an overlap, then climb the overlap to a left-arching crack. Follow the crack left, then climb up and right to the top of the slide. Belay from the trees.

Exit by bushwhacking up and right to the trail between Gothics and Pyramid peaks. (About 50-100' of bushwhacking.)

Route History:

There is no known route history.

Location:  

Located in Adirondacks approx:
Long/Lat: -74.381490,43.911773

Route Grade Citations

5.6 Principal
5.6 PG, 5.5 PG, 5.6 G (5.2 X), 5.4 PG, 5.6 PG, 5.6 PG **

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

challenging difficult beautiful lovely fall unprotected interesting

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