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Description:

This is the generally best protected route up the slab, though still with significant run-outs, but generally on easy terrain.

Start at the left-facing corner at the most-trampled section at the base of the slab.

  1. (5.0) Climb a short distance up the left-facing corner to a boulder and where a gentle-climbing cracks branches rightwards. Follow this crack until it meets a similar, though narrower, crack that zigs left, until it ends, then up into an area of small ledges and belay. 150'

  2. (5.4 G) Climb up towards a large left-arching corner by way of a crack and speckled with white rock. Climb a short way up the corner to an old ring piton, then pull right up onto the slab above (the farther up the corner, the harder the pull right will get), then up the easy slab to a good ledge. 140'

  3. (5.5 PG) Climb up to a shallow left-facing corner with a thin crack in the corner. Follow this crack & corner until it runs out, then friction up and right to a belay from several good cracks in a small overlap. 165'

  4. (5.5 PG) Pull up over the overlap, then follow the right-most of the cracks up and right until it runs out. Climb rightwards to a gravel ledge below a large boulder, then up along the left side of the boulder to a great belay in a mini-fort with a flat floor and a birch tree. (Or, friction straight up & right from the end of the crack to the belay, with no gear.) 120'

  5. (5.5 G) Step out from the fort to the left, and up the slab/corner until below a dark cave, and until the steep wall can be climbed up and right on good holds to a large ledge. Walk along the ledge and belay. 50'

  6. (5.3 G) Walk right along the big ledge, then up over some ledge to a face with an S-shaped crack, follow the crack to a small ledge with a steep face with a vertical crack broken half-way up with a horizontal crack. Up this short face, then wander up the ledgy rock angling gently right-wards to the good ledge at the top.

Tags:

Route History:

There is no known route history.

Location:  

Located in Chapel Pond Slab approx:
Lat/Long: 44.135526,-73.744302

Route Grade Citations

5.5 PG Community registered grade
5.5 **John Rolka

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 70%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

hard good great fun awesome easy

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