- Height: 780ft
- Pitches: 6
- Ascents: 29
- Aka: Standard Route
The most popular and best-protect route on the slab.
Start as per Empress.
45m (5.0 G) Climb about 5m up the corner, to just above a block where there is an obvious crack heading right angled slightly up. Follow this crack to its end, then zag left up a groove. When it ends, walk easily up gentle rock to belay somewhere. Lots of choices in the area, look for a decent ledge with some good cracks.
42m (5.4 G) Head up and right on some steps of rock with cracks, until you reach a section of whiter pock-marked rock. Climb up this to a ledge at the base of left-facing corner that turns into a left-arching roof. Climb up this corner a few feet (old ring piton), then step up and right onto low-angle face and up to a good ledge. Belay.
50m (5.5 G) Climb a shallow left-facing corner until there is a break in the bulge above, then step up and right to a scooped ledge with a crack at the back. (Optional P2 belay here instead.) Climb up and right on featured rock then angle leftwards to an obvious left-facing corner with a crack in the back. Climb the excellent crack until the corner ends, then step right to a twin-cracks belay a small headwall.
35m (5.5 PG) Above the head wall, two cracks angle up and rightwards. Climb the right-hand (more right than up) until it ends; friction right to a gravel ledge at the base of Bob's Knob (the large blocky section of rock at the top-right of the cliff, where it isn't slabby), then up beside a large boulder, or up the slab to its left, to a slot-belay with a birch tree at the back.
15m (5.5 G) Climb the corner above the tree until about 8m below a dark cave, then angle up and right on good holds to reach a large ledge. Belay on the ledge, consider taking the belay as far right as possible, to reduce rope drag on the last pitch.
55m (5.2G) Go right along the ledge until you can easily step up a couple ledge to the base of a wide S-curved crack. Follow the crack up, then continue directly up over faces and slab to the top.
(Several described, and many possible, variants exist.)
- There is no known route history.
Located in Chapel Pond Slab approx:
Route Grade Citations
|5.5||Community registered grade|
Overall quality score: 70%
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