A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

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Table of contents

1. Alabama Hills 267 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: -118.119217, 36.603299

Unique Features And Strengths:

Poor man's Joshua Tree.

Description:

Alabama Hills are a collection of quartz monzonite towers and boulders on BLM land. Generally good quality rock on the climbed routes, but often flaky, pebbly, or loose when off-route or exploring a not-well-established path or crack. Development is ongoing, with new routes appearing.

Approaches are generally short -- almost belay from the car to 10-minute scrambles over piles of boulders, occasionally with surprising pits opening up underneath them.

The rock is JTree-like, but the grades are far more in the range of modern sport grades.

Approach:

From US 395 in Lone Pine, turn west on Whitney Portal Road (as of fall 2013, the only stop-light in Lone Pine). Drive about 2.7 miles up this road, until you see the sign for the Alabama Hills Recreation area. Most of the crags are approached from Movie Road (right turn there), though the Gunga Din section is approached by driving about .4 mile further, and turning left on Horseshoe Meadows Rd.

History:

The area has a lot of movie-history, a lot of old westerns were shot in the area, and there's numerous placards and images showing scenes from movies with the actual rock in the background.

1.1. North Hills 0 routes in Crag

Description:

Most northern, and least developed, section of Alabama Hills

1.2. Movie Flat 191 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: -118.132340, 36.606850

Unique Features And Strengths:

Large collection of easy-access cliffs.

Description:

The main climbing area, in central Alabama Hills, with a good collection of cliffs in a maze of twisty little roads.

1.2.1. Paul's Paradise 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sweet Pete 5.6Sport 5
2 De Ham Bone 5.7Sport 5
3 Paul's Paradise 5.9Sport 4
4 Ted Shred

Anchors; gear to 1".

5.8Trad
5 North Face 5.8Sport 3
6 (unknown name) 5.10bSport 5

1.2.2. Poodle Wall 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Poodles Are People Too 5.10dSport 8
2 Poodle Bites 5.8Sport 6
3 Poodle Boy

Lower off from "Poodle Bites" anchor.

5.9Mixed 1
4 Poodle Chews It 5.9Sport 5

1.2.3. Hillbilly Pillar 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Yaum 5.7Sport 7
2 Cornfed 5.10aSport 5
3 Hillbilly 5.11cSport 5

1.2.4. Cattle Pocket 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Blackhawk Pinnacle

Seam to ledge to face.

5.1Sport 8
2 Jackie's Rack

Anchors.

5.6Trad
3 Itty Bitty Tittie Committee 5.8Sport 5
4 Birthday Butt Crack

Anchors.

5.7Trad
5 Choss, Moss, and Butt Floss

Optional 2in piece.

5.10aSport 8
6 Pop 5.11aSport 10
7 Fizz 5.10bSport 9
8 Split 5.8Sport 7
9 Magic Pig 5.8Sport 7
10 Curving Crack

Gear to 2". Dihedral to right-leaning flake. Anchors.

5.10cMixed 3
11 * Slab Route 5.10aSport
12 (open project) Sport Project 5

1.2.5. Dinosaur Cracks 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Left Dinosaur Crack

Hands to wide crack, then rap off slung block. Gear to 4in.

5.8Trad
2 ** Center Dinosaur Crack

Hand crack to anchors. 70m rope for lower-off/rap.

5.7Trad 100ft
3 Right Dinosaur Crack

Hand crack to off-width chimney; anchors. Gear to 5in. 70m rope for rap/lower-off.

5.9Trad 100ft

1.2.6. Zoo Wall 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 It's a Walk Off

Bolted face to hand crack. Lower off.

5.10bMixed 3
2 Relax

Dihedral. Lower off.

5.9Mixed 3
3 * Slashie Award

Bolted face to crack. Gear to 2in Lower off.

5.10cMixed 4

The next climbs are about 50ft right of the previous climb.

4 ** Really Really Ridiculously Good-Looking

Optional 1.5in and 2in pieces or run-out at end.

5.10aMixed 98ft, 11
5 * Eugoogooly

Bolted steep seam to finger crack; gear to 1.5in.

5.10cMixed 98ft, 5
6 * Zoolander

Gear to 3in, optional 7in piece. Up gully to steep left-leaning crack. Can descend in two single (60m) rope rappels by starting with short rap tol "Eugoogooly" anchors.

5.10cTrad 130ft

1.2.7. Lone Pine Surf Club 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cowabunga, Baby 5.8Sport 5
2 Hang Ten 5.10bSport 4

1.2.8. Supersonic Soul Slot 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Green Ideas 5.10bSport 6
2 Sleep Furiously 5.10bSport 6

1.2.9. Corridors 55 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles
Description:

This is a series of north-south running blades with climbing on many of the blades.

1.2.9.1. East End 12 routes in Sector
Summary:
Sport and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Under Mexicali Stars

Left-leaning cracks, then right up a wavy face. Gear to 4". Lower-off.

5.7Mixed 3
2 Senior Daredevil 5.9Sport 5
3 Trevor's Crack

Crack, gear to 4". Lower-off 'El Chato' anchors.

5.9Trad
4 El Chato 5.10bSport 6
5 Lynch Mob 5.10cSport
6 Glass Bead Game

Left-leaning seams to crack, gear to 3", lower off.

5.10dMixed 4
7 Mysterious Desperado Sport 6
8 Lawless Riders

Left-trending crack; gear to to 4"; lower-off 'Mysterious Desperado' anchor.

5.8Trad
9 Rider of the Dawn 5.10aSport 4
10 Rider of the Deadline 5.9Sport 5
11 Rider of the Law 5.9Sport 5
12 Rider of the Frontier

North arete.

5.7Sport 4
1.2.9.2. First Corridor 2 routes in Sector
Summary:
Top Rope and Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ride Lonesome

Poor.

5.3Sport 1
2 (unknown name)

Face to crack. Gear to 2". Lower off.

5.6Top rope 2
1.2.9.3. Gettin' Western Corridor 13 routes in Sector
Summary:
Mostly Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Diggin' in the Dirt 5.12bSport 4
2 Gettin' Western 5.10bSport 7
3 ** Rodeo Queen 5.10dSport 7
4 Roundup

Starts below a 2ft hole in the wall 7ft up. Merges into "Hole in the Wall" at end.

5.10cSport 6
5 Hole in the Wall

Climb past giant hueco.

5.10cSport 6
6 Saddle Sore 5.11aSport 6
7 Layton Korridor

Left-leaning seam.

5.10aSport 3
8 Flying Horseman 5.10bSport 5
9 Horse Trader 5.9Sport 5
10 Wild Horse Rodeo 5.8Sport 5
11 Thundering Herd 5.9Sport 5
12 Wild Horse Stampede

Arete.

5.7Sport 5
13 Wild Horse Mesa

Poor. Wide crack. Lower off.

5.5Trad
1.2.9.4. Nectar Sector 8 routes in Sector
Summary:
Trad, Sport and Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Nakima 5.11cSport 7
2 (project?)

Anchor.

Unknown Project
3 Susquehanna

Double cracks.

5.11bSport 5
4 Stillwater Road

Double seam to a crack. Gear to 2". Lower off.

5.10dTrad
5 Chenango

Bolted face to crack; gear to 2". Lower off.

5.10cMixed 3
6 Can't Remember the Name

Bolted face to crack; gear to 2", lower off.

5.10dMixed 4
7 Cereal Killer

Right-ascending hand-crack to bolted slab to lower off.

5.10bMixed 3
8 Dead Woman's Shoes

Gear to 3". Right-leaning crack.

5.10bTrad
1.2.9.5. Sunday Matinee Wall 20 routes in Sector
Summary:
Sport and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ranger of the North

North arete.

5.6Sport 4
2 Phantom of the Ranger

Crack, gear to 2". Lower off "Sand Trap"'s anchors.

5.8Trad
3 Sand Trap 5.9Sport 4
4 Sand Flow

Crack, gear to 4". Lower off "Sand Trap"'s anchor.

5.7Trad
5 Walking the Hills

Crack, gear to 4in. Lower off "Smokey Smith"'s anchor.

5.6Trad
6 Smokey Smth 5.10cSport 5
7 Taming Power of the Small 5.10aSport 4
8 Splitting the Breeze 5.10bSport 4
9 Border Vigilantes

Gear crack to bolted face. Lower off.

5.10dTrad
10 Hands Across the Border 5.10aSport 4
11 Border Treasure

Crack; gear to 1in; lower off "Hands Across the Border" anchors.

5.9Trad
12 Sting of the Lash 5.10bSport 3
13 Man in the Saddle

Crack, gear to 2", "Man's Country" anchor.

5.8Trad
14 Man's Country 5.9Sport 4
15 Man in the Raw

Crack; gear to 4in; lower off "Man's Country" anchor.

5.8Trad
16 Running on the Sun 5.10aSport 4
17 Three on the Trail 5.9Sport 3
18 Clearing the Trail 5.8Sport 4
19 Thunder in the Sun 5.9Sport 3
20 Sunset Trail

South arete.

5.5Sport 4

1.2.10. Lost Eye to the Moon 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fiddlin' Buckaroo 5.1Sport 2
2 Rootin' Tootin' Rhythm 5.3Sport 5
3 Rhythm on the Range 5.5Sport 5
4 * Riders of the Purple Sage 5.7Sport 8
5 ** Eye for an Eye

Up face, then right across "Lone Ranger" crack past anchors to face. (Can be done in two single-rope rappels if on a shorter than 70m rope.)

5.7Sport 110ft, 12
6 * Eye for an Eye (short)

Stop at the first anchor, rather than completing the route.

5.6Sport 5
7 Lone Ranger

Poor. Rotten face/chimney to easy left-climbing crack. Lower-off "Riders of the Purple Sage" anchors.

5.7Mixed 3

The next three climbs start from a shelf up and right from "Lone Ranger" - squeeze through a chimney to get there.

8 (unknown name 1) 5.8Sport
9 (unknown name 2) 5.8Sport
10 (unknonw name 3) 5.7Sport
11 Replikator

Climb a dike.

5.7Sport 4

The next two climbs are, actually, on an east-facing cliff about 100 yards right of "Lost Eye to the Moon".

12 Short but Sweet

Hand crack, gear to 3". Gear anchor, walk off.

5.7Trad
13 Hungoverhang

Work left, then up wide crack. Gear to 5", gear anchor, walk off.

5.9Trad

1.2.11. Eye of Horus 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:

This cliff formation has an arch at the top.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Climb Like an Egyptian 5.10cSport 5
2 King Tut vs John Wayne Live at Caesar's Palace 5.10aSport 5
3 Pharaohs on Fungi 5.10dSport 7
4 King Crack Uncommon

Finger crack, gear to 1.5", lower-off.

5.10aTrad
5 * Jackal Headed Woman

Mini-roof to nice face.

5.10aSport 7

1.2.12. Ghosts 28 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:

Another collection of cliffs

1.2.12.1. Pillar of Thoth 6 routes in Sector
Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Seven of Cups

Poor

5.8Sport 4
2 Crone

Start "Hermit", but but step to the exposed left side of the arete.

5.7Sport 5
3 Hermit

Stay right of the arete until top, then step left to anchor for "Crone".

5.10aSport 5
4 Magus 5.11aSport 6
5 Hanged Magus

A nice 5.9 variation that avoids the cruxes of "Magus" and "Hanged Man".

Start on "Magus", but at the 2nd bolt, go right and finish up "Hanged Man".

5.9Sport 6
6 Hanged Man

Boulder move to an easier flake system.

5.10bSport 6
1.2.12.2. Schmaltz 6 routes in Sector
Summary:
Trad and Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Schmutz

Gear to 4". Crack to anchors for 'Schmendrick'.

5.9Trad
2 Schmendrick

Tower to ledge to face above.

5.9Sport 9
3 Schmaltz

Gear to 2". Climb crack to bolted face above.

5.10bMixed 5
4 Schmaltzie

Poor. Gear to 5". Start same crack as Schmaltz, but continue right up crack to shared anchors with 'Schmuck' and 'Schmear'.

5.7Trad
5 Schmuck

Shares anchor with 'Schmear'.

5.9Sport 6
6 Schmear

Shares anchor with 'Schmuck'.

5.8Sport 5
1.2.12.3. Tower 2 routes in Sector
Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Full Moon

Shared anchor with "Friday the 13th".

5.10bSport 8
2 Friday the 13th

Shared anchor with "Full Moon".

5.9Sport 10
1.2.12.4. Elephant Rock 4 routes in Sector
Summary:
Sport and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Gutzman's Soliloquy

Poor. Gear to 3". Climb hand crack to dirty groove. Single bolt lower-off.

5.7Trad
2 Rama-lama-ding-dong 5.10aSport 6
3 Elephant Hunting 5.10bSport 5
4 My Pink Elephant Has Become My White Elephant

Chimney to face above.

5.10bSport 6
1.2.12.5. Leaning Tower of Pizza 3 routes in Sector
Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Deep Dish 5.6Sport 5
2 Panzarotti 5.7Sport 6
3 Spicy Pizza 5.10dSport 7
1.2.12.6. DXM Wall 7 routes in Sector
Summary:
Sport and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tussin 5.10aSport 6
2 Boodgie Boy

Variation: start in the cave below, 7 bolts. Nearly pointless.

5.9Sport 5
3 * Dextromethorphan

Climb the double-crack/seam. Gear to 1" (optional, can climb as run-out sport). Lower-off.

5.8Mixed 5
4 44D

First few bolts seem too far left?

5.9Sport 8
5 Left DXM Crack

Poor. Gear to 6". Easy crack to wide bulge. Lower-off '44D' anchors.

5.9Trad
6 Right DXM Crack

Poor. Gear to 4". Rotten gully to wide crack. Lower off "Ghost Dance" anchors.

5.10aTrad
7 Ghost Dance

Slab. Optional 2" piece.

5.8Sport 5

1.2.13. The Walnut 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -118.131890, 36.606800

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Nut 'n' Honey

Arete

5.7Sport 4
2 Macadamia 5.6Sport 4
3 Honey Bunny 5.6Sport 4
4 Nothing, Honey 5.9Sport 8
5 Sweet Poison 5.10aSport 6
6 Hangman's Knot 5.10dSport 5

1.2.14. The Pistachio 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -118.131990, 36.606600

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Nuts 5.9Sport 6
2 Nutty Buddy 5.9Sport 5
3 Scoop Ejector 5.9Sport 5

1.2.15. Hangin' Tree 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Right-of and back-of Pistachio, tunnel under a boulder to get there.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** RCM

Stem corridor to start, then face, roof, and crack.

5.10bSport 10
2 Flappy

Face.

5.10cSport 8

1.2.16. Western Wall 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Along the Greate Dived

Gear to 3", gear anchor. Loose hand crack to roof (bolt), finish up thin crack.

5.8Mixed 1
2 *** High Plains Drifter 5.10bSport 8
3 ** Hang'em High

Face to seam to dihedral.

5.10aSport 9
4 Call of the Canyon 5.10aSport 7
5 Bad Day at Black Rock

Technical face to long-angle area to exposed arete.

5.10dSport 98ft, 11
6 Boom Boom Mancini 5.10bSport 7
7 Boom Boom Mancini, long variation

Continue past the anchors up run-out 5.10a face above. Two single-rope rappels.

5.10bSport 11
8 Git Along Little Doggies 5.10cSport 5
9 Giddyup 5.10aSport 5
10 Giddyup, long variation

Continue past anchors up runout 5.8 arete. Two single-rope rappels.

5.10aSport 10

1.2.17. The Tall Wall 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: -118.132790, 36.607100

Description:

East-facing tower with minimal approach.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Rotten Bananas

Pull a 5.8 boulder problem onto the ramp, or start farther right for an easier start. Climb lowers-off on a 30m rope with rope-stretch, but doesn't quite TR on a 30m rope. (Climb ramp or boudler up to ledge, then tie-in.)

5.7Sport 100ft, 9
2 ** Bananarama 5.8Sport 98ft, 9
3 Banana Split

Climb a seam past a bolt, then up a wide crack.

5.10aMixed 98ft, 1
4 Tall T

Shares anchor with "Spur".

5.10bSport 10
5 Spur

Plates to an arete. Move left at end to shared anchor with "Tall T".

5.7Sport 11
6 Renegade Trail

Rotten cracks to face. Lower-off.

5.7Mixed 6

Scramble around right to a north-facing pinnacle for the next two routes.

7 Back Trail

Left slab.

5.6Sport 5
8 Dead Don't Dream 5.10aSport 5

Continue past "Dead Don't Dream" to the upper-shoulder of the "Tall Wall" for the next two routes.

9 Dream On

Dihedral that jogs right. Lower-off.

5.10bMixed 4
10 Diamondblade 5.12aSport 6

1.2.18. The Biscuit 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Father O'Blovion

Face climb to huecos.

5.11cSport 8
2 Moon Unit 5.11bSport 7
3 Apostrophe 5.12cSport 9
4 Florentine Pogen

On opposite wall.

5.10aSport 6
5 Dinah-Moe Humm 5.11bSport 10

1.2.19. Hoodgie Wall 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Leonosphere 5.7Sport 7
2 Holy Shiite, Muslim

Past overlaps to a hand-crack, then finish on "Ankles Away". Gear to 4".

5.7Mixed 2
3 ** Ankles Away

Great face, with some tricky 5.8+ moves.

5.8Sport 82ft, 9
4 Original Route

1 bolt. 1 2" piece. Face climbing. Lower-offs.

5.6 RMixed 82ft, 1
5 * Hoodgie

Face. Those bolts sure seem a long way apart...

5.7Sport 82ft, 4

1.2.20. Truffle Tower 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Metro 5.10dSport 4
2 Copyright Infringement

Black streak to plates. Lower off.

5.7Mixed 1
3 Rainy Day Dream Away

Poor. Gear to 4", gear anchor. Hands to wide crack. Rappel "Copyright Infringement".

5.8Trad
4 ** Mon Cherie

Excellent face climb.

5.9Sport 82ft, 9
5 * Escargot 5.8Sport 7

1.2.21. Loaf 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Paulette's Shortcut

Short climb on face below and left of the Loaf. Can scramble (3rd class) off back, or lower off.

5.9Sport 3
2 Loaf Arete

Start as per "Bad Bananas", but after roof, go left to the arete.

5.9 RMixed 150ft, 1
3 * Bad Bananas

Short ramp to roof, then up run-out face.

5.9 RMixed 150ft, 1
4 ** Pangborn

Big long face. Double-rope rappel. Mostly 5.8.

5.10aSport 150ft, 11
5 ** Ranger Ron

Start up right-leaning ramp, pull onto face and face climb up past a horizontal to a long sustained face.

Double rope rappel.

5.8Sport 150ft, 15
6 *** Alabama Hills Gang

Up thin face to a ramp, across this, then up sustained 5.8/5.9 face with 5.10a bulges near top. Excellent.

Double-rope rappel.

5.10aSport 150ft, 17

1.3. East Flat 0 routes in Crag

Description:

Smaller area east of "Movie Flat"

1.4. Shark's Fin 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

A set of cliffs along the road past the (obvious) "Shark's Fin" cliff.

1.4.1. Shark's Fin 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Description:

The obvious "Shark's Fin" you see off to the left as you drive in Movie Road.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pirates on Horseback

South arete.

5.10bSport 7
2 Coral Sea Adventure

Face

5.7Sport 6
3 East Face

Chimney to face.

5.7Sport 6
4 Shark's Fin Arete

Arete.

5.7Sport 7
5 Fat Black Mama

Crux can be skipped by going left to arete at 3rd bolt, then 5.11a.

5.11cSport 7
6 Ol' White Pappy

Arete.

5.10cSport 5

1.4.2. Hideout East 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 In Memory of Raleigh Collins 5.11aSport 7
2 On Heck of a Lizard 5.9Sport 7
3 Uncle Remus 5.10aSport 5
4 Inca Roads 5.9Sport 4

1.4.3. Hideout West 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Powerplay 5.10aSport 4
2 Whippersnapper 5.8Sport 4
3 Snowball 5.7Sport 4

1.5. Gunga Din 63 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: -118.113190, 36.584600

Description:

A set of cliffs south of the Whitney Portal access road.

1.5.1. Arizona Tower 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Spot 5.9Sport 6
2 Sweet Home Arizona

Long, goes past lower-off station for "Muffy". Rap (single rope) off west side.

5.9Sport 6
3 Muffy 5.8Sport 7
4 Death of a Cowboy 5.7Sport 4

1.5.2. Hell Wall 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Left Hell Crack 5.10bMixed 4
2 Right Hell Crack 5.10cMixed 4
3 Satan Ate My Cat 5.9Mixed 3

1.5.3. Alabam Dome 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Blockade Runner 5.10cSport 9
2 Dihedral Dance 5.11aSport 8
3 *** Gone with the wind 5.9Sport 65ft
4 Southern Man 5.9Sport 7
5 Sweet Home Alabam

Not recommended. Gear to 4", dirty rotten dihedral. Lower off from "Southern Man" anchors.

5.9Trad
6 Sherman's March

1 fixed drill bit -- bring a sling. Belay on summit, rap "Southern Man" or "Dihedral Dance".

5.10bSport 11

1.5.4. Thug Wall 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Elephant Girl 5.10bSport 7
2 Bhisti

Shares anchor with "Bengal Lancer".

5.10a RMixed 1
3 Bengal Lancer 5.10cSport 7

1.5.5. Rocky Top 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Southern Girls

Shares anchors with "Bodacious" and "After Eights".

5.10c RTrad 110ft
2 Bodacious

Shared anchors.

5.9 RMixed 110ft, 2
3 Drop Out

Starts behind a tall block, ends at the top of the block. Often combined with "After Eights" as a 2nd pitch.

5.8Sport 5
4 After Eights

Starts about 1/2 way up the formation.

5.8Sport 7
5 Chocolate Mice

Continue up past anchor for "After Eights" or "Dark Chocolate".

5.8Sport 5
6 Dark Chocolate

Starts about 1/2 way up the formation.

5.9Sport 5
7 Gunga Din

Starts behind tall block, from slot. Dihedral to wide crack.

5.8Trad 98ft
8 Krugerrands

Long -- single rope rappel off to west.

5.8 RMixed 1
9 Rocky Top

Rap off to west.

5.8 RTrad

1.5.6. Temple of Kali 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Kali Sacrifice 5.10aSport 7
2 * Kew 5.10aSport 8
3 Wildest Dreams

Start up "Kew", but move right after 2nd bolt.

5.10aSport 7

1.5.7. Peter Gabriel Cliff 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Passion 5.10dSport 6
2 Wanting Contact 5.10aSport 6
3 Sledgehammer 5.10cSport 5
4 Chalk the Monkey 5.11dSport 5

1.5.8. Southern Blonde 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 What a Face

Optional 1" piece.

5.9Sport 9
2 Cajun Spice Girls 5.9 RMixed 3
3 Dick See Chicks 5.10aSport 8

1.5.9. Candy Store 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sugar Daddy

Shares anchor with "Sweet Spot".

5.10bSport 4
2 Sweet Spot

Finishes with "Sugar Daddy".

5.10aSport 5
3 Pure Cane 5.8Sport 4
4 Crack It Up

Gear anchor. Rappel down "Tootsie Pop".

5.7Trad
5 Tootsie Pop 5.6Sport 3
6 Twix

Gear anchor. Rap "Tootsie Pop".

5.9Trad
7 Rock Candy 5.10dSport 3
8 Kit Kat 5.10aSport 3
9 Werner's Werthers 5.8Sport 3

1.5.10. Earthday Dome 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Have a Slabulous Day 5.8Sport 6
2 Everyday is Earthday 5.9Sport 5
3 Seamingly Cool

Lower-off "Everyday is Earthday" anchors.

5.6 RTrad
4 Greenpeace and Greenbacks

Rap from "Everyday is Earthday" anchors.

5.7Trad
5 Corner the Market

Anchors.

5.8Mixed 2

1.5.11. Whitney Cave 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport
1.5.11.1. Capricorn Wall 7 routes in Sector
Summary:
All Sport
Description:

On the right, before the cave.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Wounded Knee 5.10cSport 5
2 Capricorn 5.10cSport 5
3 Dec. 29 5.10dSport 4
4 Happy Cappys 5.11aSport
5 Skylight

From in cave.

5.10cSport 5
6 Pipe Dream

From in the cave.

5.10bSport 4
7 (unknown)

Go around right of the first formation, climb arete.

5.9Sport 5
1.5.11.2. Pu Pu Platter 7 routes in Sector
Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

After the cave.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Hot and Sour 5.11cSport 4
2 Lucky Family 5.11aSport 5
3 Why You Call Me Alltime and Make Big Ha Ha 5.10dSport 5
4 Precious Auntie 5.10aSport 5
5 Jackaloo 5.9Sport 4
6 (project?)

2 bolts and a pin. Nasty looking dihedral.

Unknown Project 2
7 Boss Choss 5.9Sport 9

1.5.12. The Chocolate Block 0 routes in Cliff

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
5.1 Blackhawk Pinnacle Sport 8 1.2.4. Cattle Pocket
Fiddlin' Buckaroo Sport 2 1.2.10. Lost Eye to the Moon
5.3 Ride Lonesome Sport 1 1.2.9.2. First Corridor
Rootin' Tootin' Rhythm Sport 5 1.2.10. Lost Eye to the Moon
5.5 Wild Horse Mesa Trad 1.2.9.3. Gettin' Western Corridor
Sunset Trail Sport 4 1.2.9.5. Sunday Matinee Wall
Rhythm on the Range Sport 5 1.2.10. Lost Eye to the Moon
5.6 Sweet Pete Sport 5 1.2.1. Paul's Paradise
Jackie's Rack Trad 1.2.4. Cattle Pocket
(unknown name) Top rope 2 1.2.9.2. First Corridor
Walking the Hills Trad 1.2.9.5. Sunday Matinee Wall
ranger of the North Sport 4 1.2.9.5. Sunday Matinee Wall
* Eye for an Eye (short) Sport 5 1.2.10. Lost Eye to the Moon
Deep Dish Sport 5 1.2.12.5. Leaning Tower of Pizza
Honey Bunny Sport 4 1.2.13. The Walnut
Macadamia Sport 4 1.2.13. The Walnut
Back Trail Sport 5 1.2.17. The Tall Wall
Original Route Mixed 82ft, 1 1.2.19. Hoodgie Wall
Tootsie Pop Sport 3 1.5.9. Candy Store
Seamingly Cool Trad 1.5.10. Earthday Dome
5.7 De Ham Bone Sport 5 1.2.1. Paul's Paradise
Yaum Sport 7 1.2.3. Hillbilly Pillar
Birthday Butt Crack Trad 1.2.4. Cattle Pocket
** Center Dinosaur Crack Trad 100ft 1.2.5. Dinosaur Cracks
Rider of the Frontier Sport 4 1.2.9.1. East End
Under Mexicali Stars Mixed 3 1.2.9.1. East End
Wild Horse Stampede Sport 5 1.2.9.3. Gettin' Western Corridor
Sand Flow Trad 1.2.9.5. Sunday Matinee Wall
(unknonw name 3) Sport 1.2.10. Lost Eye to the Moon
** Eye for an Eye Sport 110ft, 12 1.2.10. Lost Eye to the Moon
Lone Ranger Mixed 3 1.2.10. Lost Eye to the Moon
Replikator Sport 4 1.2.10. Lost Eye to the Moon
* Riders of the Purple Sage Sport 8 1.2.10. Lost Eye to the Moon
Short but Sweet Trad 1.2.10. Lost Eye to the Moon
Crone Sport 5 1.2.12.1. Pillar of Thoth
Schmaltzie Trad 1.2.12.2. Schmaltz
Gutzman's Soliloquy Trad 1.2.12.4. Elephant Rock
Panzarotti Sport 6 1.2.12.5. Leaning Tower of Pizza
Nut 'n' Honey Sport 4 1.2.13. The Walnut
Renegade Trail Mixed 6 1.2.17. The Tall Wall
** Rotten Bananas Sport 100ft, 9 1.2.17. The Tall Wall
Spur Sport 11 1.2.17. The Tall Wall
Holy Shiite, Muslim Mixed 2 1.2.19. Hoodgie Wall
* Hoodgie Sport 82ft, 4 1.2.19. Hoodgie Wall
Leonosphere Sport 7 1.2.19. Hoodgie Wall
Copyright Infringement Mixed 1 1.2.20. Truffle Tower
Coral Sea Adventure Sport 6 1.4.1. Shark's Fin
East Face Sport 6 1.4.1. Shark's Fin
Shark's Fin Arete Sport 7 1.4.1. Shark's Fin
Snowball Sport 4 1.4.3. Hideout West
Death of a Cowboy Sport 4 1.5.1. Arizona Tower
Crack It Up Trad 1.5.9. Candy Store
Greenpeace and Greenbacks Trad 1.5.10. Earthday Dome
5.8 North Face Sport 3 1.2.1. Paul's Paradise
Ted Shred Trad 1.2.1. Paul's Paradise
Poodle Bites Sport 6 1.2.2. Poodle Wall
Itty Bitty Tittie Committee Sport 5 1.2.4. Cattle Pocket
Magic Pig Sport 7 1.2.4. Cattle Pocket
Split Sport 7 1.2.4. Cattle Pocket
Left Dinosaur Crack Trad 1.2.5. Dinosaur Cracks
Cowabunga, Baby Sport 5 1.2.7. Lone Pine Surf Club
Lawless Riders Trad 1.2.9.1. East End
Wild Horse Rodeo Sport 5 1.2.9.3. Gettin' Western Corridor
Clearing the Trail Sport 4 1.2.9.5. Sunday Matinee Wall
Man in the Raw Trad 1.2.9.5. Sunday Matinee Wall
Man in the Saddle Trad 1.2.9.5. Sunday Matinee Wall
Phantom of the Ranger Trad 1.2.9.5. Sunday Matinee Wall
(unknown name 1) Sport 1.2.10. Lost Eye to the Moon
(unknown name 2) Sport 1.2.10. Lost Eye to the Moon
Seven of Cups Sport 4 1.2.12.1. Pillar of Thoth
Schmear Sport 5 1.2.12.2. Schmaltz
* Dextromethorphan Mixed 5 1.2.12.6. DXM Wall
Ghost Dance Sport 5 1.2.12.6. DXM Wall
Along the Greate Dived Mixed 1 1.2.16. Western Wall
** Bananarama Sport 98ft, 9 1.2.17. The Tall Wall
** Ankles Away Sport 82ft, 9 1.2.19. Hoodgie Wall
* Escargot Sport 7 1.2.20. Truffle Tower
Rainy Day Dream Away Trad 1.2.20. Truffle Tower
** Ranger Ron Sport 150ft, 15 1.2.21. Loaf
Whippersnapper Sport 4 1.4.3. Hideout West
Muffy Sport 7 1.5.1. Arizona Tower
After Eights Sport 7 1.5.5. Rocky Top
Chocolate Mice Sport 5 1.5.5. Rocky Top
Drop Out Sport 5 1.5.5. Rocky Top
Gunga Din Trad 98ft 1.5.5. Rocky Top
Krugerrands Mixed 1 1.5.5. Rocky Top
Rocky Top Trad 1.5.5. Rocky Top
Pure Cane Sport 4 1.5.9. Candy Store
Werner's Werthers Sport 3 1.5.9. Candy Store
Corner the Market Mixed 2 1.5.10. Earthday Dome
Have a Slabulous Day Sport 6 1.5.10. Earthday Dome
5.9 Paul's Paradise Sport 4 1.2.1. Paul's Paradise
Poodle Boy Mixed 1 1.2.2. Poodle Wall
Poodle Chews It Sport 5 1.2.2. Poodle Wall
Right Dinosaur Crack Trad 100ft 1.2.5. Dinosaur Cracks
Relax Mixed 3 1.2.6. Zoo Wall
Rider of the Deadline Sport 5 1.2.9.1. East End
Rider of the Law Sport 5 1.2.9.1. East End
Senior Daredevil Sport 5 1.2.9.1. East End
Trevor's Crack Trad 1.2.9.1. East End
Horse Trader Sport 5 1.2.9.3. Gettin' Western Corridor
Thundering Herd Sport 5 1.2.9.3. Gettin' Western Corridor
Border Treasure Trad 1.2.9.5. Sunday Matinee Wall
Man's Country Sport 4 1.2.9.5. Sunday Matinee Wall
Sand Trap Sport 4 1.2.9.5. Sunday Matinee Wall
Three on the Trail Sport 3 1.2.9.5. Sunday Matinee Wall
Thunder in the Sun Sport 3 1.2.9.5. Sunday Matinee Wall
Hungoverhang Trad 1.2.10. Lost Eye to the Moon
Hanged Magus Sport 6 1.2.12.1. Pillar of Thoth
Schmendrick Sport 9 1.2.12.2. Schmaltz
Schmuck Sport 6 1.2.12.2. Schmaltz
Schmutz Trad 1.2.12.2. Schmaltz
Friday the 13th Sport 10 1.2.12.3. Tower
44D Sport 8 1.2.12.6. DXM Wall
Boodgie Boy Sport 5 1.2.12.6. DXM Wall
Left DXM Crack Trad 1.2.12.6. DXM Wall
Nothing, Honey Sport 8 1.2.13. The Walnut
Nuts Sport 6 1.2.14. The Pistachio
Nutty Buddy Sport 5 1.2.14. The Pistachio
Scoop Ejector Sport 5 1.2.14. The Pistachio
** Mon Cherie Sport 82ft, 9 1.2.20. Truffle Tower
* Bad Bananas Mixed 150ft, 1 1.2.21. Loaf
Loaf Arete Mixed 150ft, 1 1.2.21. Loaf
Paulette's Shortcut Sport 3 1.2.21. Loaf
Inca Roads Sport 4 1.4.2. Hideout East
On Heck of a Lizard Sport 7 1.4.2. Hideout East
Spot Sport 6 1.5.1. Arizona Tower
Sweet Home Arizona Sport 6 1.5.1. Arizona Tower
Satan Ate My Cat Mixed 3 1.5.2. Hell Wall
*** Gone with the wind Sport 65ft 1.5.3. Alabam Dome
Southern Man Sport 7 1.5.3. Alabam Dome
Sweet Home Alabam Trad 1.5.3. Alabam Dome
Bodacious Mixed 110ft, 2 1.5.5. Rocky Top
Dark Chocolate Sport 5 1.5.5. Rocky Top
Cajun Spice Girls Mixed 3 1.5.8. Southern Blonde
What a Face Sport 9 1.5.8. Southern Blonde
Twix Trad 1.5.9. Candy Store
Everyday is Earthday Sport 5 1.5.10. Earthday Dome
(unknown) Sport 5 1.5.11.1. Capricorn Wall
Boss Choss Sport 9 1.5.11.2. Pu Pu Platter
Jackaloo Sport 4 1.5.11.2. Pu Pu Platter
5.10a Cornfed Sport 5 1.2.3. Hillbilly Pillar
Choss, Moss, and Butt Floss Sport 8 1.2.4. Cattle Pocket
* Slab Route Sport 1.2.4. Cattle Pocket
** Really Really Ridiculously Good-Looking Mixed 98ft, 11 1.2.6. Zoo Wall
Rider of the Dawn Sport 4 1.2.9.1. East End
Layton Korridor Sport 3 1.2.9.3. Gettin' Western Corridor
Hands Across the Border Sport 4 1.2.9.5. Sunday Matinee Wall
Running on the Sun Sport 4 1.2.9.5. Sunday Matinee Wall
Taming Power of the Small Sport 4 1.2.9.5. Sunday Matinee Wall
* Jackal Headed Woman Sport 7 1.2.11. Eye of Horus
King Crack Uncommon Trad 1.2.11. Eye of Horus
King Tut vs John Wayne Live at Caesar's Palace Sport 5 1.2.11. Eye of Horus
Hermit Sport 5 1.2.12.1. Pillar of Thoth
Rama-lama-ding-dong Sport 6 1.2.12.4. Elephant Rock
Right DXM Crack Trad 1.2.12.6. DXM Wall
Tussin Sport 6 1.2.12.6. DXM Wall
Sweet Poison Sport 6 1.2.13. The Walnut
Call of the Canyon Sport 7 1.2.16. Western Wall
Giddyup Sport 5 1.2.16. Western Wall
Giddyup, long variation Sport 10 1.2.16. Western Wall
** Hang'em High Sport 9 1.2.16. Western Wall
Banana Split Mixed 98ft, 1 1.2.17. The Tall Wall
Dead Don't Dream Sport 5 1.2.17. The Tall Wall
Florentine Pogen Sport 6 1.2.18. The Biscuit
*** Alabama Hills Gang Sport 150ft, 17 1.2.21. Loaf
** Pangborn Sport 150ft, 11 1.2.21. Loaf
Uncle Remus Sport 5 1.4.2. Hideout East
Powerplay Sport 4 1.4.3. Hideout West
Bhisti Mixed 1 1.5.4. Thug Wall
Kali Sacrifice Sport 7 1.5.6. Temple of Kali
* Kew Sport 8 1.5.6. Temple of Kali
Wildest Dreams Sport 7 1.5.6. Temple of Kali
Wanting Contact Sport 6 1.5.7. Peter Gabriel Cliff
Dick See Chicks Sport 8 1.5.8. Southern Blonde
Kit Kat Sport 3 1.5.9. Candy Store
Sweet Spot Sport 5 1.5.9. Candy Store
Precious Auntie Sport 5 1.5.11.2. Pu Pu Platter
5.10b (unknown name) Sport 5 1.2.1. Paul's Paradise
Fizz Sport 9 1.2.4. Cattle Pocket
It's a Walk Off Mixed 3 1.2.6. Zoo Wall
Hang Ten Sport 4 1.2.7. Lone Pine Surf Club
* Green Ideas Sport 6 1.2.8. Supersonic Soul Slot
Sleep Furiously Sport 6 1.2.8. Supersonic Soul Slot
El Chato Sport 6 1.2.9.1. East End
Flying Horseman Sport 5 1.2.9.3. Gettin' Western Corridor
Gettin' Western Sport 7 1.2.9.3. Gettin' Western Corridor
Cereal Killer Mixed 3 1.2.9.4. Nectar Sector
Dead Woman's Shoes Trad 1.2.9.4. Nectar Sector
Splitting the Breeze Sport 4 1.2.9.5. Sunday Matinee Wall
Sting of the Lash Sport 3 1.2.9.5. Sunday Matinee Wall
Hanged Man Sport 6 1.2.12.1. Pillar of Thoth
Schmaltz Mixed 5 1.2.12.2. Schmaltz
Full Moon Sport 8 1.2.12.3. Tower
Elephant Hunting Sport 5 1.2.12.4. Elephant Rock
My Pink Elephant Has Become My White Elephant Sport 6 1.2.12.4. Elephant Rock
** RCM Sport 10 1.2.15. Hangin' Tree
Boom Boom Mancini Sport 7 1.2.16. Western Wall
Boom Boom Mancini, long variation Sport 11 1.2.16. Western Wall
*** High Plains Drifter Sport 8 1.2.16. Western Wall
Dream On Mixed 4 1.2.17. The Tall Wall
Tall T Sport 10 1.2.17. The Tall Wall
Pirates on Horseback Sport 7 1.4.1. Shark's Fin
Left Hell Crack Mixed 4 1.5.2. Hell Wall
Sherman's March Sport 11 1.5.3. Alabam Dome
Elephant Girl Sport 7 1.5.4. Thug Wall
Sugar Daddy Sport 4 1.5.9. Candy Store
Pipe Dream Sport 4 1.5.11.1. Capricorn Wall
5.10c Curving Crack Mixed 3 1.2.4. Cattle Pocket
* Eugoogooly Mixed 98ft, 5 1.2.6. Zoo Wall
* Slashie Award Mixed 4 1.2.6. Zoo Wall
* Zoolander Trad 130ft 1.2.6. Zoo Wall
Lynch Mob Sport 1.2.9.1. East End
Hole in the Wall Sport 6 1.2.9.3. Gettin' Western Corridor
Roundup Sport 6 1.2.9.3. Gettin' Western Corridor
Chenango Mixed 3 1.2.9.4. Nectar Sector
Smokey Smth Sport 5 1.2.9.5. Sunday Matinee Wall
Climb Like an Egyptian Sport 5 1.2.11. Eye of Horus
Flappy Sport 8 1.2.15. Hangin' Tree
Git Along Little Doggies Sport 5 1.2.16. Western Wall
Ol' White Pappy Sport 5 1.4.1. Shark's Fin
Right Hell Crack Mixed 4 1.5.2. Hell Wall
** Blockade Runner Sport 9 1.5.3. Alabam Dome
Bengal Lancer Sport 7 1.5.4. Thug Wall
Southern Girls Trad 110ft 1.5.5. Rocky Top
Sledgehammer Sport 5 1.5.7. Peter Gabriel Cliff
Capricorn Sport 5 1.5.11.1. Capricorn Wall
Skylight Sport 5 1.5.11.1. Capricorn Wall
Wounded Knee Sport 5 1.5.11.1. Capricorn Wall
5.10d Poodles Are People Too Sport 8 1.2.2. Poodle Wall
Glass Bead Game Mixed 4 1.2.9.1. East End
** Rodeo Queen Sport 7 1.2.9.3. Gettin' Western Corridor
Can't Remember the Name Mixed 4 1.2.9.4. Nectar Sector
Stillwater Road Trad 1.2.9.4. Nectar Sector
Border Vigilantes Trad 1.2.9.5. Sunday Matinee Wall
Pharaohs on Fungi Sport 7 1.2.11. Eye of Horus
Spicy Pizza Sport 7 1.2.12.5. Leaning Tower of Pizza
Hangman's Knot Sport 5 1.2.13. The Walnut
Bad Day at Black Rock Sport 98ft, 11 1.2.16. Western Wall
Metro Sport 4 1.2.20. Truffle Tower
Passion Sport 6 1.5.7. Peter Gabriel Cliff
Rock Candy Sport 3 1.5.9. Candy Store
Dec. 29 Sport 4 1.5.11.1. Capricorn Wall
Why You Call Me Alltime and Make Big Ha Ha Sport 5 1.5.11.2. Pu Pu Platter
5.11a Pop Sport 10 1.2.4. Cattle Pocket
Saddle Sore Sport 6 1.2.9.3. Gettin' Western Corridor
Magus Sport 6 1.2.12.1. Pillar of Thoth
In Memory of Raleigh Collins Sport 7 1.4.2. Hideout East
Dihedral Dance Sport 8 1.5.3. Alabam Dome
Happy Cappys Sport 1.5.11.1. Capricorn Wall
Lucky Family Sport 5 1.5.11.2. Pu Pu Platter
5.11b Susquehanna Sport 5 1.2.9.4. Nectar Sector
Dinah-Moe Humm Sport 10 1.2.18. The Biscuit
Moon Unit Sport 7 1.2.18. The Biscuit
5.11c Hillbilly Sport 5 1.2.3. Hillbilly Pillar
Nakima Sport 7 1.2.9.4. Nectar Sector
Father O'Blovion Sport 8 1.2.18. The Biscuit
Fat Black Mama Sport 7 1.4.1. Shark's Fin
Hot and Sour Sport 4 1.5.11.2. Pu Pu Platter
5.11d Chalk the Monkey Sport 5 1.5.7. Peter Gabriel Cliff
5.12a Diamondblade Sport 6 1.2.17. The Tall Wall
5.12b Diggin' in the Dirt Sport 4 1.2.9.3. Gettin' Western Corridor
5.12c Apostrophe Sport 9 1.2.18. The Biscuit
? (open project) Sport Project 5 1.2.4. Cattle Pocket
Mysterious Desperado Sport 6 1.2.9.1. East End
(project?) Unknown Project 1.2.9.4. Nectar Sector
(project?) Unknown Project 2 1.5.11.2. Pu Pu Platter