Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Arkansas 446 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Unknown, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: -92.463802, 34.934310

1.1. Cass 0 routes in Crag

1.2. Cave Creek 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3. Chenal Mountain 16 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: -92.482795, 34.792717

1.4. Cowell 0 routes in Crag

1.5. Dardanelle Rock 0 routes in Crag

1.6. Deliverance 0 routes in Crag

1.7. Fern Climbing Area 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Boulder

1.8. Forty Acre Rock 0 routes in Crag

1.9. Goshen 0 routes in Crag

1.10. Horseshoe Canyon Ranch 137 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: -93.290713, 36.005865

1.10.1. The West Side 3 routes in Unknown

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -93.293513, 36.000319

Description:

The latest guidebook has Crackhouse Alley and The Confederate Cracks combined into an area called The West Side.

1.10.2. The North Forty 56 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: -93.295939, 36.008973

1.10.3. Prophecy Wall 5 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Sport

1.10.4. The Goat Cave 7 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Sport

1.10.5. Mullet Buttress 6 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.10.6. Magoo Rock 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -93.286074, 36.005545

1.10.7. Roman Wall 9 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: -93.284899, 36.005409

1.10.8. Cliffs of Insanity 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: -93.284459, 36.004856

1.10.9. Far East Wall 16 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: -93.283530, 36.003884

1.10.10. Crackhouse Alley 14 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.10.11. Titanic Wall 0 routes in Area

1.10.12. Titanic Boulder 11 routes in Area

Summary:
Top Rope, Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: -93.297295, 36.005307

1.10.13. Confederate Cracks 3 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Trad

1.11. Hudson Mountain 0 routes in Crag

1.11.1. Fern Gully 0 routes in Area

1.12. Jamestown 65 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: -91.757308, 35.665467

Unique Features And Strengths:

Moderate sport climbing on good Arkansas sandstone.

Access Issues:

The Climbing area is on the Jamestown Wildlife Management Area. The last section of the road in is leased to a logging company. While you can pass through, be careful not to park beyond the orange gate beyond nightfall. It's not known when the gate may be locked or unlocked, so it's best to park before it (again watching for logging trucks and avoiding them).

Approach:

From the intersection of Hwy 167 and Hwy 230, take Hwy 230 west for 5 miles. Take a left (south) on Jamestown Loop Rd. Continue on Jamestown Loop Rd for 3 and a bit miles and turn right on an unmarked dirt road just past a Jametown W.M.A sign. Follow the road for 2 miles to hit the cliffs (but be wary of the Access issues).

Where To Stay:

Motels in Batesville. Camping is allowed in the W.M.A. areas, but be sure to park outside the orange gate and off the road as logging trucks will use it at times.

1.12.1. Game Wall 13 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: -91.757956, 35.666641

1.12.2. Froot Loops Wall 8 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -91.757566, 35.666107

1.12.3. Amateur Wall 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: -91.757428, 35.665979

1.12.4. Pagan Wall 9 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: -91.757157, 35.665486

1.12.5. Bad Llama Wall 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: -91.756952, 35.664721

1.12.6. The Cabinet Boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -91.757146, 35.664150

1.12.7. Gates of Hell Boulder 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -91.756558, 35.663966

1.12.8. Psycho Wall 13 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: -91.756741, 35.664242

1.12.9. Disaster Wall 7 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -91.756361, 35.663866

1.12.10. Root Wall 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: -91.756189, 35.663678

1.12.11. Cactus Wall 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: -91.756491, 35.663796

1.13. Kent Mountain 0 routes in Crag

1.14. Lake Lincoln 116 routes in Crag

Summary:
Boulder, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: -94.419001, 35.997989

1.14.1. North Side 33 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Top Rope

Long/Lat: -94.426270, 36.000101

Description:

Features the majority of the sport routes at Lake Lincoln. Faces South-east.

Approach:

Walk due north from the parking lot. First route is pretty much right there.

1.14.2. Box Canyon 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -94.425116, 36.001960

Description:

Small area with one of the best climbs at Lincoln.

Approach:

Walk to the end of the North Side. Head north along the climber's trail past a creek and the main Lake Lincoln Trail. Box Canyon is the tallest block of several boulders.

1.14.3. South Side 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Boulder

Long/Lat: -94.426360, 35.998493

Description:

Small area on the south side of the lake close to the parking lots. Routes are listed starting from the parking lot.

Approach:

Park at the general Parking Lots. Walk on the trail on the south side of the lake. The first route is pretty close to the parking lot.

1.14.4. Turtles 15 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: -94.416191, 35.992738

Description:

High quality area with some of Lincoln's best bouldering problems.

Approach:

Go past The Dam Boulders along the Lake Lincoln Trail for 20 more minutes or so. The Cove Boulder is on the trail. The Turtles Boulder is uphill a couple of minutes from the Cove Boulder.

1.14.5. Dam Boulders 38 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: -94.417629, 36.001621

Approach:

Park at the main Parking Spot. Walk past the North Side along the lake. At the far north of the lake the trail will ascend to the Dam. Cross the Dam and veer right along the trail. The trail will split - take the right fork and the Dam Boulders should be right there.

1.14.6. Water Sports 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -94.422115, 36.001339

Description:

Routes listed from South to North.

Approach:

Walk the cliff line from the South Side cliff. Can also take the service road (open to foot traffic).

1.14.7. Mad Max 15 routes in Area

Summary:
Boulder, Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: -94.417894, 35.995691

Description:

Widely spaced area with low amounts of traffic.

Approach:

From the parking lots, take the service road until the Lake Lincoln Trail breaks East (marked). Follow the trail until it descends the cliff. Break left for 150 ft or so to the first route.

1.15. Lake Sheperd Springs 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: -94.106925, 35.704344

1.16. Little Rock 0 routes in Crag

1.17. Lost Valley 0 routes in Crag

1.18. Mossy Bluff 0 routes in Crag

1.19. Mount Magazine State Park 23 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: -93.629899, 35.169274

1.19.1. Breakfast Wall 0 routes in Area

1.19.2. Crag Central 0 routes in Area

1.19.3. Party Ledge 0 routes in Area

1.19.4. Hallucinogen Wall 0 routes in Area

1.19.5. Footstool 0 routes in Area

1.19.6. Centerfold Wall 23 routes in Area

Summary:

1.19.7. Satanic Wall (East End) 0 routes in Area

1.19.8. Mt. Magazine Routes 0 routes in Area

1.19.9. Black on Blonde Wall 0 routes in Area

1.19.10. East Scenic Overlook 0 routes in Area

1.19.11. Stack Rock 0 routes in Area

1.20. Natural Dam Bouldering Area 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

1.21. Pilots Knobb 0 routes in Crag

1.22. Red Rock Point 0 routes in Crag

1.23. Rickett Mountain 0 routes in Crag

1.24. Sam's Throne 66 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and Aid

Long/Lat: -93.052020, 35.871069

1.24.1. Prohibition 0 routes in Area

1.25. Shadow Lake 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

1.26. Shaman's Bluff 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.26.1. Central Cut 3 routes in Area

Summary:

1.27. Steele Creek 0 routes in Crag

1.28. Three Locke 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

1.29. Valley of the Blind 0 routes in Crag

1.30. Wedington 0 routes in Crag