Beaver Street Wall

Unique Features And Strengths:: Sedimentary
Located right in San Francisco, you'll find a handful of fun, moderate routes on incredibly unique rock.
Description:: Vertical Crack Face Wet in rain Always shady NW
The first thing you will notice is the rock (radiolarite chert): smooth and shiny from a shifting fault line with just enough rough patches scattered across it to allow an ascent. In places, the rock looks like auburn glass, polished enough to see one's reflection.

Most routes are top-roped by anchoring to the metal fence posts along the top of the cliff; however, there are options for placing pro along the main crack if you are feeling bold. The rock quality at the top of the cliff is very poor, be very careful to avoid knocking rocks off of the cliff when setting up a top rope.

The mild climate of the city can mean cool climbing here in the middle of summer, but if it's foggy in the city, the rock may be wet.

People walk their dogs here, so watch where you step (or where you flake out your rope).
Access Issues:: Corona Heights Park is a city park, so other than appropriate consideration for the neighbors, there are no access issues.
Approach:: Flat <5 min
There is foot access for setting up a top rope; however, to maintain good relations with the neighbors, and to avoid unnecessary rockfall, do not scramble up the slopes at either end of the wall. Instead, walk south on Beaver Street until you reach the bend. Follow the pedestrian alley to the right, and take the path back uphill until you reach the fence at the top of the wall.

The wall is located at Beaver Street and 15th Street in the northeast corner of the Corona Heights Park, right next to the Peixotto Playground. There is street parking on Beaver St. The Castro Street MUNI Metro station is 3 blocks to the south.
Tags:: Kid friendly Dog friendly Walk off Rap off No fires Toilets No camping Allowed

Routes

	Route	Grade	Style
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1	Unknown 5.11 Face According to the Bay Area Rock guide, there's a 5.11 route up the face to the left of the crack (photo topo is approximate). Expect thin moves up a chossy face, especially near the top, with lots of loose rock near the fence posts.	5.11	Top rope 60ft
2	The Crack / Follow the Crack Follow the horizontal crack over to the main vertical crack, with interesting crux moves at the horizontal traverse. If leading or aiding, look for the hangerless bolt two-thirds the way up in the middle of the glassy face. Pro to 2.5" with many small nuts. Top anchor is chains which are often backed up with a sling on the second fence post. You don't have to climb over the fences to set up a top rope; however, if you do pull the chains under the fence, be very careful to avoid knocking rocks over the cliff. An interesting and recommended mid-5.10 variation on all of the main routes is to avoid the vertical crack, using only face holds just to the right of the crack. FFA: unknown,	5.10a C1+ to C2 R	Trad 60ft
3	Crack Direct The direct variation is easier and has a few interesting moves off the ground. Climb directly up the face to the crack. The crux is low with no opportunities to place pro before reaching the main crack. If aid climbing, the low section can be aided with hooks. Pro to 2.5" with many small nuts. FFA: uknown,	5.9 C2 to C3 R	Trad 60ft
4	Right of Direct Start / Right Start Follow the thin crack up and to the right of the direct start before climbing the face back and to the left. Balancy crux moves on thin hands and feet. Pro to 2.5" with many small nuts and no opportunities for pro on the first 25 ft. FFA: unknown,	5.10d R	Trad 60ft
5	Crack to Face Start on 'Right of Direct Start' but continue up the face, avoiding the crack until the very top of the route. FFA: unknown,	5.11b	Top rope 60ft
6	Unknown 5.12 Face A line of microedges leads straight up to the fencepost just to the right of the main climbing. The holds are small and painful, but the rock quality is good enough. The Bay Area Rock guide lists this as 5.11+, but it's probably harder.	5.12c	Top rope 60ft
7	Bolt Route / Aid Line Three hangerless bolts, two bolts with hangers, and one piton mark a line up the dirty, chossy face with very thin holds and balancy moves. Face climbing up past two or three old bolt holes will get you to the first hangerless bolt. Use the right-most doubled up fence post as a top anchor. This route is probably decent for aid, marginal for top rope, and terrifying to lead. FA: unknown, FFA: unknown,	5.11b C1 to C2 R	Aid 60ft , 2

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