Beaver Street Wall Mostly Top roping7 routes in crag
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The first thing you'll notice is the unique modification to the underlying rock (radiolarian chert): it's been polished to a glassy sheet by a shifting fault line, with just enough rough patches scattered across it to allow an ascent. In places, the rock looks like glass, polished enough to see one's reflection.
Most routes are top-roped via a chain anchor attached to the metal fence posts along the top of the cliff; however, there are options for placing marginal pro in the main crack if you're feeling particularly bold. Note however that the exceptionally polished rock will make it difficult to place bomber pieces (nuts won't "seat" very well, cams will slide right out, etc.).
The rock quality in the final 6 feet of the cliff is very poor, so be very careful to avoid knocking rocks off of the cliff when setting up a top rope or if topping out.
The mild climate of the city can mean cool climbing here in the middle of summer, but if it's foggy in the city, the rock may be wet. The cliff faces north and is hemmed in by buildings so is perpetually in the shade. The park underneath is also dark and damp, so expect it to be cold, even if it's hot on top of Corona Heights Hill.
This is a good spot if you're climbing with kids, as there's a good-sized playground right in the park directly underneath the cliff. They may be a little stymied by the tenuous nature of the climbing however.
People walk their dogs here, so watch where you step (or where you flake out your rope).
In April 2014 SF Rec & Park placed signs at the cliff stating that climbing is via permit only. So far no climbers are known to have been issued with a permit, but before climbing here please at least attempt to gain one, by calling 415-831-5500.
More information is available at https://www.facebook.com/savebsw/
The wall is located at Beaver Street and 15th Street in the northeast corner of the Corona Heights Park, right next to the Peixotto Playground. There is street parking on Beaver St. The Castro Street MUNI Metro station is 3 blocks to the south.
There is foot access for setting up a top rope; however, to maintain good relations with the neighbors, and to avoid unnecessary rockfall, do not scramble up the chossy slopes at either end of the wall. Instead, walk south on Beaver Street until you reach the bend. Follow the pedestrian alley (De Forest) up the stairs to the right (to the end of Flint St), and take the path uphill and right until you reach the top of the wall.
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