|1|| Unknown 5.11 Face
According to the Bay Area Rock guide, there's a 5.11 route up the face to the left of the crack (photo topo is approximate). Expect thin moves up a chossy face, especially near the top, with lots of loose rock near the fence posts.
|2|| The Crack
Follow the horizontal crack over to the main vertical crack, with interesting crux moves at the horizontal traverse. If leading or aiding, look for the hangerless bolt two-thirds the way up in the middle of the glassy face. Pro to 2.5" with many small nuts. Top anchor is chains which are often backed up with a sling on the second fence post. You don't *have* to climb over the fences to set up a top rope; however, if you do pull the chains under the fence, **be very careful to avoid knocking rocks over the cliff**. An interesting and recommended mid-5.10 variation on all of the main routes is to avoid the vertical crack, using only face holds just to the right of the crack.
|5.10a C1+ to C2 R||60ft||Unlink route|
|3|| Crack Direct
The direct variation is easier and has a few interesting moves off the ground. Climb directly up the face to the crack. The crux is low with no opportunities to place pro before reaching the main crack. If aid climbing, the low section can be aided with hooks. Pro to 2.5" with many small nuts.
|5.9 C2 to C3 R||60ft||Unlink route|
|4|| Right of Direct Start
Follow the thin crack up and to the right of the direct start before climbing the face back and to the left. Balancy crux moves on thin hands and feet. Pro to 2.5" with many small nuts and no opportunities for pro on the first 25 ft (the crux).
|5.10d R||60ft||Unlink route|
|5|| Crack to Face
Start on 'Right of Direct Start' but continue up the face, avoiding the crack until the very top of the route.
|6|| Unknown 5.12 Face
A line of microedges leads straight up to the fencepost just to the right of the main climbing. The holds are small and painful, but the rock quality is good enough. The Bay Area Rock guide lists this as 5.11+, but it's probably harder.
|7|| Bolt Route
Three hangerless bolts, two bolts with hangers, and one piton mark a line up the dirty, chossy face with very thin holds and balancy moves. Face climbing up past two or three old bolt holes will get you to the first hangerless bolt. Use the right-most doubled up fence post as a top anchor. This route is probably decent for aid, marginal for top rope, and terrifying to lead.
|5.11b C1 to C2 R||260ft,||Unlink route|
Keyboard shortcuts: esc Deselect routes and areas while editing