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Table of contents
JFMAMJJASONDseasonalityUnknown and Trad
Long/Lat: -120.236324, 38.490731
- Unique Features And Strengths:
Some big, lesser known domes.
A fantastic, slightly old-school area comprising several distinct domes and walls. The centrepiece is 'Calaveras Dome' itself, a massive 1800' high dome on the southern side of the Mokelumne River.
- Access Issues:
No access issues, as its located in National Forest.
From CA highway 88, turn right (south) onto Ellis Rd (poorly signposted) and drive for several windy miles to the bottom of the valley. At the bottom, turn left (East) and follow the road along the Mokelumne River (with several crossings) until the domes loom into view.
- Where To Stay:
There's plenty of free camping just downstream from the domes. The official National Forest sites have pit toilets, picnic tables and fire rings, but there is no potable water anywhere in the valley.
Thunderbolt and Lightfoot
FA: tweedle dee, and assorted fools
|2||Layin' On the Hands||5.8||66ft|
Long/Lat: -120.227082, 38.486335
|1||Wall of the Worlds||5.10b||1300ft|
|2||Sands Of Time||5.9|
Long/Lat: -120.230128, 38.492608
Drive past the dome towards the reservoir until you get to some houses with "private property, no parking" signs. Turn hard left, cross a bridge over the river and there'll be a turnout / parking lot immediately on the left hand side of the road. Park here, then scramble up at the right hand end of the parking lot to the aquedect. Follow this left for about 10 minutes until it disappears into the dome.
- Descent Notes:
There are several rap routes on the dome. Double 60m ropes recommended.
To access all the routes right of and including 'Smoke Screen', scramble straight up where the aqueduct enters the dome to the highest ledge with trees. You'll arrive at the base of 'Smoke Screen'.
Wings and Stings
Major right facing corner on the right hand side of the dome.
Slab route to the right of Gemini Cracks, and also the rappel descent for that and nearby routes.
Rappel the route with 2 ropes, ideally 60m.
|5.10c R||5, 15440ft|
To access 'Gemini Cracks Direct Start' and routes to the left, head down and around the dome where the aqueduct enters the tunnel.
Gemini Cracks Direct Start
Corner then slab with 4 bolts to the right of the original start.
Much better than the original P1.
A classic! Pitch 4 is the money pitch, with a superb moderate crack way up in the sky.
Rappel descent (double 60m ropes): aim for the chains halfway up P4, then a short rappel to the chains visible 20m below. From here a 55m rappel reaches the ground.
Gemini Cracks Variant P3
From the P2 belay on Gemini Cracks, go left on the undercling flake (#3.5 / #4 cams), and up a lovely easy handcrack on the left hand side. Belay at rappel chains on top of the flake, or move right to the original P3 belay.
Better than the original P3.
Long/Lat: -120.236882, 38.494012
|8||Emberrassment of Riches||5.10a|
|3||Dreaming of JTree||5.10b|