Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Lost Horse Candlestein Pass Hemingway Buttress East Face | |||||||
5.8 | Hernie Hernie Hernie | 30m, 1 | |||||
There are no bolts on this - route description should be changed to reflect this.
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5.8 | ★ Funky Dung | 30m, 1 | |||||
There are no bolts on this - route description should be changed to reflect this.
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Thu 15th Feb 2024 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Quail Springs Trashcan Rock West Face | |||||||
5.3 | ★ B-1 | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
My first trad lead 🙂 definitely climb over the gap between two boulders for a lovely constriction for 2 or 3s for anchor and easy walk off
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5.3 | B-2 | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Beautiful anchor crack that accepts everything from a 2 down to small cams. I used 2 1s and 0.75s but there are definitely lots of options
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Tue 13th Feb 2024 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Hidden Valley Campground Cyclops Rock Northwest Face | |||||||
5.3 | ★★ The Eye | 24m | |||||
One of my favorites
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Mon 25th Dec 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Hidden Valley Campground Intersection Rock South-West Face | |||||||
5.6 | ★ West Chimney | 46m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A kinda trickier start, but gives way to some wonderfully frictiony stemming. Good gear throughout. Topped out by going through the tiny cave at the top, pretty interesting manoeuvres. Not too hard, lot of fun.
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Sat 2nd Dec 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Quail Springs Chocolate Boulders Chocolate Roof | |||||||
V4 | ★★ Chocolate Roof Left — 5 attempts | ★★★ Classic | |||||
I couldn't quite mantel onto the slab above. As usual, my first attempt was my best.
Very nice problem. Come back for this one. |
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Sat 2nd Dec 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Quail Springs Chocolate Boulders Chocolate Boulder 3 | |||||||
V2 | ★ Attractive Brunette | ||||||
hmm...
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Sat 2nd Dec 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Quail Springs Chocolate Boulders Chocolate Boulder 2 | |||||||
VB | Sinfully Delicious | ||||||
downclimb
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VB | Sinfully Delicious | ||||||
downclimb
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V3 | ★ Bodacious | ||||||
Half-hearted attempt
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V1 | ★ Bodacious Rail — 5 attempts | ||||||
Unclear exactly where it starts... I may have made it more difficult by starting further right, almost on the face.
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Sat 2nd Dec 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Quail Springs Chocolate Boulders Chocolate Chip | |||||||
5.9 | Mini-Slab | 3m | |||||
Tricky start.
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Sat 2nd Dec 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Quail Springs Chocolate Boulders Chocolate Boulder 1 | |||||||
V4 | ★★ Swinging Richard — 5 attempts | 6m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
This is a very good problem. Come back to it. I was able to go to the left arete, but no further.
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V0+ | ★★ Smoothy — 8 attempts | 6m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tricky, until it worked. Pulling off the ground is the crux.
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Fri 17th Nov 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
The Real Hidden Valley Area The Land That Time Forgot The Sentinel West Face | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Illusion Dweller | 30m | |||||
Brilliant route, it's what climbing is all about. Long and sustained excellent fun
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Fri 17th Nov 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Roadside Rocks Dihedral Rock | |||||||
5.11b | ★★★ Coarse and Buggy — 3 attempts | 25m | |||||
Best route so far at jtree loved it
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Tue 14th Nov 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Quail Springs Trashcan Rock West Face | |||||||
5.7 | ★ Tiptoe | 3 | |||||
Really fun tiptoeing up the tiny crystal line up the face
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Sun 22nd Oct 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Jumbo Rocks Conan's Corridor Corridor Face | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Gem | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
it wasn't pretty, but got it done
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Sun 22nd Oct 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Quail Springs Trashcan Rock West Face | |||||||
5.8 | ★ Cranny - with lisa ou | 8m | |||||
Basically three cool boulder problems
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Sat 21st Oct 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Lost Horse Lost Horse North Atlantis Area | |||||||
5.8 | ★ Wet Pigeon - with Lisa O | ||||||
Slippery start
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Fri 20th Oct 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Jumbo Rocks Conan's Corridor Corridor Face | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Gem | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
got absolutely nuked on this. everything went wrong, had a fat trad whip, the works. Ended up walking to the top, belaying my second up and rapelling down the sport route climber's left.
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Hidden Valley Campground The Old Woman West Face | |||||||
5.7 PG13 | ★★★ Double Cross - with Kelsie Wamer | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
The first 20' can be protected perfectly fine to prevent a groundfall. I found a yellow totem, blue totem and a .75 Camelot to protect these moves.
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Hidden Valley Campground Intersection Rock South-West Face | |||||||
5.8 ~5.9 | ★★ The Flake - with Kelsie Wamer | 43m | Average | ||||
Due to time constraints, I chose to start up West Chimney, then stepped left into the flake proper. The slab moves at the top keeps your head in the game!
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Sun 24th Sep 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Barker Dam Area Gunsmoke Area Gunsmoke Area | |||||||
5.11+ V3 | ★★★ Gunsmoke | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Super nice traverse. Deserted when I got there alone. Couldn’t get past first crux. Did first crux and third crux (corner) in isolation, though. Did not really try second crux.
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Mon 8th May 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Hidden Valley Campground Intersection Rock North Face | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Left Ski Track | 46m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Three goes.Dogged then clean on top rope then redpoint. The most obvious line in all of JT. Had to be done
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Sun 7th May 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Echo Rock Area Echo Cove Touch and Go Face | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Touch and Go - with Jeff D | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Another JTree classic, and deservedly so. Feels quite a bit harder than Sail Away 5.8-, the jams are mandatory and the stemming never felt super secure for me -- but I was tired from climbing the day before.
There are some absolutely bomber hand jams on this, not to miss! The downclimb is a little involved, rap bolts couldn't hurt here but it's probably heresy to even suggest that... |
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Sun 7th May 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Split Rocks Area West Parking Area Isles In The Sky | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Bird Of Fire - with Jeff D | 17m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Stellar route. I've wanted to do this since looking at it in October 2021, but I am not yet experienced enough to try it on lead. Definitely felt harder than 5c+/6a (converted), more like 6b+ as GrAId says! Fantastic mixture of face climbing and different jamming techniques, as well as an interesting change from slabby to overhung.
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Sat 6th May 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
The Real Hidden Valley Area The Real Hidden Valley Sports Challenge Rock East Face | |||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Clean and Jerk - with Jeff D | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
As primarily a sport climber, I managed (TR-onsighted) the start but got extremely pumped in the crack section above (or couldn't get rid of the pump that the start gave me). This route might be nice to climb if you have good crack technique and also if you are less tired than we were at the end of a long day in JTree. Took me three hangs to get to the top.
I found the start hard to protect -- yes, the pods are there, but the individual moves are like a V2/V3 boulder problem, and it would be tough to plug in gear at that moment. Decking potential for sure. |
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Sat 6th May 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
The Real Hidden Valley Area The Real Hidden Valley Hidden Tower | |||||||
5.8 | ★★★ Sail Away - with Jeff D | 26m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
3rd ever trad lead and my favourite route so far in the park. Amazing crack with some mandatory jamming, but many face holds nonetheless. Extremely well-protected, beautiful line and great summit views.
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Sat 6th May 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Hidden Valley Campground The Old Woman West Face | |||||||
5.7 PG13 | ★★★ Double Cross - with Jeff D | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Followed this back in October 2021, today I lead this as my first ever trad lead. Took ages to find the right placements, but I made it up there cleanly. Still a nice climb.
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Sat 6th May 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Hidden Valley Campground Intersection Rock North Face | |||||||
5.3 | ★★ Upper Right Ski Track - with Jeff D | 24m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
My 2nd trad lead, extremely enjoyable pitch with good protection.
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5.10c | ★★ Lower Right Ski Track - with Jeff D | 21m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
Really proud to have TR-flashed this one. Some hard moves around the bolt!
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Sat 6th May 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Hidden Valley Campground The Old Woman East Face | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Toe Jam - with Jeff D | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Warm-up for the day.
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Fri 5th May 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Hidden Valley Campground Intersection Rock North Face | |||||||
5.3 | ★★ Upper Right Ski Track - with Dave Burt | 24m | ★ Good | ||||
Our first route in JT! A good introduction
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Fri 5th May 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Hidden Valley Campground Intersection Rock East Face | |||||||
5.6 | ★ Mike's Books - with Dave Burt | 49m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The first few metres is the best part. The rest of it was also excellent
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Fri 5th May 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Hidden Valley Campground Intersection Rock North Face | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ North Overhang - with Dave Burt | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A lot of fun. Even better than it looks
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Fri 5th May 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Hidden Valley Campground The Old Woman East Face | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Toe Jam - with Dave Burt | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Another line that demands to be climbed
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Fri 5th May 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Hidden Valley Campground The Old Woman West Face | |||||||
5.7 PG13 | ★★★ Double Cross - with Dave Burt | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really nice rock climb
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Sat 11th Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
The Real Hidden Valley Area Turtle Rock Area Turtle Rock South Face | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Satanic Mechanic — 2 attempts - with Fabian Michel | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Did two tries in toprope for checking out the beta after not getting to the top in lead. Very nice route. Beta for reference (in German) :
Über der dritten Exe an guten Griff rechts doppeln, links hochstehen auf linken schwarzen tritt, rechts höher stehen und links an guten Griff ziehen (schmale Kante). Weiter oben an Riss links rausstehen auf reibung, an Riss höher arbeitenz Dann rechts auf guten Griff stehen. Rechts hochgreifen in sehr kleinen teil Des rises, links höher stehen auf reibung und rechts in guten Griff , der ist auch ein untergriff. Links dazu und Dann mit rechts hochstehen auf fläche großen tritt. Rechts weiter an kleineren Griff Dann links hand in untergriff klemmen, links und rechts hochstehen, links ist der tritt weiß und leicht rausgebrochen, rechts schwarz und Klein. Rechts kreuzen an Henkel. Dann linken fuß in den Riss Stellen, rechts leicht auf reibung toe hooken und links an guten Henkel. Links weit hochstehen auf kleinen weißen tritt Dann mit rechts weit hochgreifen an schlechte Leiste. Rechten fuß auf kleine abgebrochene weiße Leiste. Von unten sieht man dass der tritt zwischen zwei schwarzen teilen der wand ist. Linker fuß auf seitlichen schwarzen tritt. Linke hand in Seitgriff. Rechter fuß etwas neben den linken, linker fuß hoch auf linken guten Griff von vorher. rechts hochgreifen an guten clip Griff. Dann überkreuz an den Griff kurz drüber ziehen, rechte hand dazu. Links auf den rechten richtig guten tritt, rechts etwas höher auf kleinen schwarzen tritt, leicht eingedreht. Dann rechts hoch an leiste. Links etwas hochstehen und mit links kurz Zwischengreifen an kleine schlechte leiste, Dann verlängern an gute. |
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Sat 11th Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
The Real Hidden Valley Area The Land That Time Forgot Tumbling Rainbow Formation | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Tic Tic Boom - with Fabian Michel | ★★★ Classic | |||||
First did one try in toprope. Before leading attempt. Beta for reference (in German): Unten an Riss, linke hand in Seitgriff weit links. Rechte hand an mittigen Seitgriff auf schulter nehmen. Dann fuß auf den tritt unter gutem Seitgriff (man könnte da auch hooken).
An schlüsselstelle rechten fuß rechts rausstellen, linken fuß mittig, Dann eingedreht an rechte Leiste mit links hochgreifen. Dann rechts an rechte angechalkte seitleiste. Dann links etwas weiter hochstehen auf rechter seite und rechts weit hoch auf tritt rechts außen. Dann links hoch auf tritt weit links außen und rechts an guten Griff verlängern (langsam hochtasten und Dann festhalten mit daumen oben) . Über schlüsselstelle rechts in seitleiste Dann gut stehen mittig und links in guten Seitgriff mit links hochgreifen. Dann rechts nach oben verlängern in besseren Seitgriff. |
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Sat 11th Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Quail Springs Vagmarken Hill The Place Sheep Sleep | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Where Sheep Sleep - with Fabian Michel | 11m, 4 | |||||
quite hard moves. Did not climb to the top since it felt hard and had some issues with my fingers that I did not want to make worse. It has quite some sharp crimps
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Sat 11th Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Lost Horse Lost Horse North Ken Black Memorial Dome | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ Blackjack — 2 attempts - with Fabian Michel | 24m, 6 | |||||
Very nice route, technical balancy crux moves, above that I had to do a little bit of a dynamic move to a good hold. Very well protected for Joshua Tree. Would definetly recommend this route.
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Sat 11th Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Roadside Rocks The Pep Boys Crag | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ Flim-Flam Man — 3 attempts - with Fabian Michel | 8m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very nice route, first try in toprope, then lead but first quickdraw clipped (since I wasn't sure to stick the moves before fist bolt), then third try I sent it (also with first quickdraw clipped) nice technical moves that require some endurance.
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Sat 11th Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
The Real Hidden Valley Area The Land That Time Forgot Tumbling Rainbow Formation | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Tic Tic Boom - with Fabian Michel | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Very nice route. Want to try again if I am ever back in Joshua tree. The first bolt is quite high, but can be protected with nuts in the small finger crack below. Still I was super scared before reaching first bolt, since I was close to falling before clipping. there is a good ledge/jug for clipping, but only one foothold on the right (very high up).
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Sat 11th Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
The Real Hidden Valley Area The Real Hidden Valley Sports Challenge Rock West Face | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Rap Bolters Are Weak - with Fabian Michel | ★ Good | |||||
First bolt is very high and also it is not easy until the first bolt, would not do it in lead. Very tiny crimps on crux moves. Did not do one move above the belly of the first quickdraw, hard and too painful for fingers.
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Sat 11th Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Echo Rock Area The Candy Bar More Funky Than Monkey | |||||||
5.11c ~5.11d | ★★ More Monkey Than Funky - with Fabian Michel | ★★★ Classic | |||||
I did the route with aid clibing, sitting in the rope and in toprope . But also in toprope removing the cams is quite hard and you would fall to the next cam after removing one, since it is a roof. Did not do the moves when going into the roof and also in the finger crack above the roof I could not do the jam and had to pull on a cam. I can only imagine that the moves might be nice. Very hard, especially if you are not used to crack climbing. Of course I cannot say for sure that it is harder than 5.11c, but certainly it felt for me that way.
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Sat 11th Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
The Real Hidden Valley Area Turtle Rock Area Turtle Rock South Face | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Satanic Mechanic - with Fabian Michel | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very nice route. Tried in lead once, but finding out the beta after the third bolt was too hard in lead for me, because I fell every time in the crack below the small belly. Two tries after that in toprope.
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Sat 11th Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Hidden Valley Campground The Old Woman East Face | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Toe Jam - with Fabian Michel | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Very nice route, two cracks, but no jamming required. A bit more scary to me than Wind tower, because the climbing is a bit more weird, but nice weird .
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Sat 11th Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Quail Springs Vagmarken Hill Vagmarken Left Buttress | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Wind Tower - with Fabian Michel | 37m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very nice and easy trad route. No crack climbing skills required . Felt safe, very good as a first trad only route.
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Thu 9th Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
The Real Hidden Valley Area The Land That Time Forgot Tumbling Rainbow Formation | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Tic Tic Boom - with Klara R | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Fingers still hurt and my beta probably isn't optimal, one move is definitely far and doesn't succeed every time.
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Thu 9th Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
The Real Hidden Valley Area The Land That Time Forgot Upper Cow Rock | |||||||
5.12c/d | ★★★ Prime Real Estate — 2 attempts - with Klara R | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
The first bolt is quite high, and it's also already quite difficult - fortunately, there were some other bolts on the left, which allowed me to try the first part with the first bolt clipped already (this is actually a well-protected sport route apart from the first bolt). Overhanging endurance route on mostly good holds. Climbed it with two rests in the second go, the first of which was unnecessary (took the wrong hold). The fingers still hurt quite a bit from yesterday and we only had 2 hours, so I couldn't do more than 2 tries. Definitely doable within a few more tries.
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Wed 8th Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
The Real Hidden Valley Area The Land That Time Forgot Tumbling Rainbow Formation | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Tic Tic Boom - with Klara R | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Bolts are a bit rusty, but they held all my falls, some from more than a meter above the quickdraws. The crux is a single, far move to get to a hold next to the third bolt (at least the way I climbed the route). Nice climbing in the last third of the route on jugs in a vertical face.
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Wed 8th Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
The Real Hidden Valley Area The Real Hidden Valley Sports Challenge Rock West Face | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Rap Bolters Are Weak — 2 attempts - with Klara R | ★★ Very Good | |||||
A bit scary to get to the first bolt (this is actually a sport route), before which I could only place a small cam relatively low. The crux is to get from the first to the second bolt on small and very sharp edges. In the end, I went to the good sidepull with the left and matched it with the right, holding the tension to avoid turning out of the wall. On the first try, leading the route, I skipped some moves and focused on getting up somehow. In the second toprope attempt, I had to rest in three places: twice because my fingers hurt so much from the sharp edges and once to figure out the last part of the crux.
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Tue 7th Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
The Real Hidden Valley Area Turtle Rock Area Turtle Rock South Face | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Satanic Mechanic — 2 attempts - with Klara R | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Too hard for warming up and while putting the quickdraws, but on my next attempt, I climbed in the sun and it was much warmer than two days ago, making the route much easier for me.
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5.13a | ★★★ Desert Shield - with Klara R | ★★★ Classic | |||||
One try to check all the moves, which were all doable. However, to put them together is another story, this would probably have been a week-long project. A lot of endurance on small holds necessary. The moves were quite cool. The rock was glued in some places, one hold was even glued back on after having come off at some point.
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Sun 5th Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Echo Rock Area The Candy Bar More Funky Than Monkey | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ More Monkey Than Funky - with Klara R | ★★ Very Good | |||||
90° overhanging roof of about 5 meters with a hand crack and then a vertical finger crack after the lip, trad apart from a bolted anchor. It was a bit hard to try the moves while also having to put in the cams, so I mostly aided the roof. Jam technique, particularly for the feet, was also definitely lacking. Then, there is a really good kneebar before some more hard moves until your feet are above the lip.
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Sun 5th Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
The Real Hidden Valley Area Turtle Rock Area Turtle Rock South Face | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Satanic Mechanic — 4 attempts - with Klara R | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Excellent overhanging sport route. Good holds in the lower part and up a crack, then the most difficult part: a face climb on small holds, which are also a little sharp. It got quite windy on my second try and I was just too cold to climb the route. Third and fourth try were still cold but at least not windy. Fell at the absolute last hard move because my right hand slipped off the hold.
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Sun 5th Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Hidden Valley Campground The Old Woman East Face | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Toe Jam - with Klara R | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really good trad route, the last crack and slab part is not that easy.
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Sat 4th Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Quail Springs Vagmarken Hill The Place Sheep Sleep | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Where Sheep Sleep — 3 attempts - with Klara R | 11m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good climbing, but the rock is still crumbling off in some places. A foothold came off in my second try, so I needed to change my beta (I think it became slightly harder) for a third go.
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Sat 4th Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Quail Springs Vagmarken Hill Vagmarken Left Buttress | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Wind Tower - with Klara R | 37m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice and easy trad route
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Fri 3rd Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
The Outback Wall of Biblical Fallacies | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Blood of Christ - with Fabian Michel | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Very sharp holds. I was bleeding of my finger tip from the route before. So I stopped. Also the moves felt a little too hard for me.
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5.12a | ★★ Blood of Christ — 2 attempts - with Klara R | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Protection by bolts is okay, but there is a scary (at least for me in the onsight) mantle about one and a half meters above the last quickdraw. The holds are quite sharp. One try to put in the quickdraws where I didn't really try the moves (confidence a bit low after the last route), and one try on toprope where I actually did every move on the first try, so it's definitely doable. Might come back later
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Fri 3rd Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
The Outback Patagonia Pile East Face | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ Hot Legs Contest (Jugline) - with Fabian Michel | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Nice, but the crux of the route I could only climb in two parts. There is an arrete with several bad holds and a good foothold on the right where you can jam your right foot. The left foot needs to be very close to the right. Then with right hand to a crimp next to the arrete. And into a jug. Then right foot to higher shitty foothold. Left foot somewhere on the left and and left hand to crimp an sloper.
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5.11c | ★★ Hot Legs Contest (Jugline) — 3 attempts - with Klara R | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Crux from second to third bolt. Somehow had no endurance at all today and just couldn't climb it from the ground, was out of breath after just a few moves. Quite a nice route, though.
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Fri 3rd Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
The Outback Rollerball Formation | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ Roller Coaster - with Klara R | 21m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Nice mix of climbing and really well protected. Also a nice finish for the day - clipped the anchor in the last rays of the sun.
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Fri 3rd Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Lost Horse Candlestein Pass The IRS Wall | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ Alf's Arete - with Fabian Michel | 26m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice but weird arrete climbing. Happy to have climbed with the rope from the top.
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Thu 2nd Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Roadside Rocks The Pep Boys Crag | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ Flim-Flam Man — 2 attempts - with Klara R | 8m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Very short sport route, the crux is to hold some small sidepulls
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Thu 2nd Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Lost Horse Lost Horse North Ken Black Memorial Dome | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ Blackjack — 2 attempts - with Klara R | 24m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice, well-protected climb
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Thu 2nd Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Roadside Rocks Dihedral Rock | |||||||
5.12b | Vanishing Point - with Klara R | Average | |||||
Potentially good, but the top layer of the rock is crumbling off in many places, so I decided not to try again. Quite well protected by bolts apart from the lower part where I was also not so sure about my placements because the rock didn't seem particularly solid.
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Thu 2nd Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Lost Horse Candlestein Pass The IRS Wall | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ Alf's Arete - with Klara R | 26m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really nice arête and slab climb with few features in some places. It took me a few tries to figure out the crux. Strange climbing, I felt insecure in many places.
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Wed 1st Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Hidden Valley Campground Chimney Rock West Face | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ West Face Overhang | 24m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very nice, had to turn three times in off widthcrack
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5.10b | ★★ Pinched Rib | 14m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Quite easy, but getting down from the anchor quite scary and tough.
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Wed 1st Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Hidden Valley Campground The Blob East Face | |||||||
5.10b ~5.10c | ★★ Papa Woolsey | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice, but feels harder than 5.10b. Very hard slab move at the bottom. Before first bolt you need to be brave. Built first traditional anchor at the top
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Wed 1st Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Hidden Valley Campground The Old Woman West Face | |||||||
5.9 ~5.9 | ★★ Sexy Grandma | 24m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice, not really traditional but I think more 5.9-5.10 one high foot move that feels harder than 5.8
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Wed 1st Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Hidden Valley Campground The Old Woman East Face | |||||||
5.10c/d | ★★ Bearded Cabbage | 18m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Could not do the one move when going from last good hold of the flake to the crack. The move exactly was matching the right hand into the crack. Did not try very long though. For next time, try switching feet first and jamming left hand more so that I am already turned in when matching right hand.
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Wed 1st Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Hidden Valley Campground Intersection Rock South-West Face | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ The Flake | 43m | ★ Good | ||||
Nice, but the beginning is an off width crack, super hard and very frightening in lead for sure.
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Wed 1st Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Hidden Valley Campground Intersection Rock East Face | |||||||
5.6 | ★ Mike's Books | 49m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First trad route for me
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Wed 1st Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Hidden Valley Campground Cyclops Rock Southwest Face | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Spaghetti & Chili | 27m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very nice and easy trad route
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5.10d/11a | ★★ Grey Cell Green | 15m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very nice sport route, not super hard. Some friends and nuts for the top are helpful. I climbed it with the first quick draw already clipped, because I wasn't so sure if I could clip from the first good hold.
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Tue 28th Feb 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Hidden Valley Campground Cyclops Rock Southwest Face | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Spaghetti & Chili - with Klara R | 27m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really nice and easy trad route, with a nice layback flake in the middle and then some tile-like jugs
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5.10d/11a | ★★ Grey Cell Green — 2 attempts - with Klara R | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Not so hard, well protected
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Tue 28th Feb 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Hidden Valley Campground The Old Woman East Face | |||||||
5.10c/d ~5.10d | ★★ Bearded Cabbage - with Klara R | 18m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First an overhanging flake and then the crux, protected by a bolt: getting from the flake into a crack on the left
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Mon 27th Feb 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Hidden Valley Campground The Blob East Face | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Papa Woolsey — 2 attempts - with Klara R | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Not so easy slab, very small holds and feet, well protected but with a relatively high first bolt
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Mon 27th Feb 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Hidden Valley Campground Chimney Rock West Face | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Pinched Rib - with Klara R | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very cool looking easy climb on protruding blocks. The climb back down to the ground by another route (there is no anchor) looks quite scary from above.
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5.7 | ★★ West Face Overhang - with Klara R | 24m | ★ Good | ||||
Turned left on the last ledge and climbed a nice thin hands crack which was easier to climb without any jamming (this last part was not the route indicated in the topo)
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Sun 26th Feb 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Hidden Valley Campground The Old Woman West Face | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Sexy Grandma - with Klara R | 24m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice sport route
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5.11d | The Cavity - with Klara R | 27m, 4 | Average | ||||
Scary, because the outer layer of the rock is crumbling off in many places, decided to go back down at the third bolt
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Sun 26th Feb 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Hidden Valley Campground Intersection Rock East Face | |||||||
5.6 |
★ Mike's Books P1
- with
Klara R
1
| 49m | ★ Good | ||||
First route in Joshua Tree and the US in general. Trad with a bolted anchor.
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Sun 26th Feb 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Hidden Valley Campground Intersection Rock South-West Face | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ The Flake - with Klara R | 43m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Maybe a bit too hard for the second trad route, but we got to the top (actually even without falling or resting on the rope). Starts with a chimney and an offwidth crack, where protections can only be placed relatively far apart if you don't have cams above size 3. After that, there is the flake after which the route was named and it gets easier. Finishes with a relatively easy slab with two bolts which are about 5 meters apart. Anchor is on the other side of the rock.
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Wed 15th Feb 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Hidden Valley Campground The Old Woman West Face | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Sexy Grandma | 24m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
very cool movement, placed a #2 and a #3 after the last bolt
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Tue 14th Feb 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Jumbo Rocks Conan's Corridor Corridor Face | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Colorado Crack | ★ Good | |||||
Had to bail half way up leading, managed to get it on top rope.
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Mon 13th Feb 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Lost Horse Lost Horse North Atlantis Area | |||||||
5.5 | ★ Men With Cow's Heads | 50m | ★ Good | ||||
good intro to Joshua tree and anchor building
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Thu 2nd Feb 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Hidden Valley Campground Back Loop Bouldering | |||||||
V7 | ★★★ Orange Julius | ||||||
TRied and tried an couldn't reach. Maybe with a little more dynamic beta or leaning more.
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Thu 2nd Feb 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Roadside Rocks JBMF Boulders Yardarm Boulder | |||||||
V0 | ★ Pig Fucker Direct | 4m | Crap | ||||
Terrible
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Wed 1st Feb 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
The Outback Tidal Wave Boulder | |||||||
V9 | ★★★ Relic | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Sent on fourth session. Took longer than expected on that session, was starting to feel the need to adjourn due to tiredness. The final go went smooth.
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Sun 29th Jan 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Roadside Rocks JBMF Boulders JBMF Boulder | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ JBMFP - with Maxine bardavid | 5m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Second go of the day.
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Sun 29th Jan 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
The Outback White Rastafarian Boulder | |||||||
V2 | ★★★ White Rastafarian - with Maxine bardavid | 7m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Second go. Hesitated once to make the long move. Stuck it and I knew I had to top fast so I did.
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Sun 22nd Jan 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Roadside Rocks JBMF Boulders Yardarm Boulder | |||||||
V1 | ★★ Yardarm Boulder - with Maxine bardavid | 4m | |||||
Divertido, casi me rompo los dedos por intentarlo de dyno y se me quedó atorada la mano en la grieta horizontal
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Mon 2nd Jan 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
The Outback False Hueco Boulder | |||||||
V2 ~V3 | ★★★ False Hueco Traverse | 6m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Got to the last move but endurance failed me sadly, next time…? Whenever that is
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