Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Northern California 518 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: -122.732199, 40.579478

1.1. Salt Point State Park 0 routes in Crag

1.2. Frog Woman Rock 0 routes in Crag

Unique Features And Strengths:

Unfortunately about the only climbable rock in this part of the world. Has an awesome swimming hole, complete with rope swing and rock jump, just past the bend downstream (south).

Description:

The more extensive South Boulders offer the best bouldering (though it's not great) and one bolted route (5.10a) on water polished boulders that have calved off the main cliff. Most of the problems have generally good landings though a mat is still recommended.

The smaller (and mostly worthless) North Boulders are on the 101 side of the river, just north of the main cliff. They have mostly bad landings, even with a mat.

This place gets hot in summer, so the best times to visit are late fall and into winter (but before too much rain has fallen - otherwise the river gets harder to cross).

Approach:

Park in any of the turnouts on the river side of 101, then head down to the river. For the South Boulders, carefully wade across the river on seasonally shifting sandbars (note: may not be safe in spring).

Where To Stay:

Several good campgrounds near Cloverdale. There's also a family-friendly KOA in Asti (5 miles south of Cloverdale).

History:

See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frog_Woman_Rock for some interesting non-climbing history.

1.2.1. North Boulders 0 routes in Field

1.2.2. South Boulders 0 routes in Field

1.3. Black Rock Spire 0 routes in Crag

1.4. Redwood Coast 143 routes in Crag

Summary:
Boulder, Top Rope and other styles

Long/Lat: -124.093770, 41.357847

1.4.1. Moonstone Beach 52 routes in Crag

Summary:
Top Rope, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: -124.112115, 41.028720

1.4.2. Houda Point 31 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: -124.118387, 41.035693

1.4.3. Luffenholtz Beach 15 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Top Rope and Trad

Long/Lat: -124.121031, 41.041895

1.4.4. Promontory 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -124.088409, 41.551620

1.4.5. Footsteps 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: -124.105545, 41.612712

1.4.6. Patrick's Point 40 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Top Rope and other styles

Long/Lat: -124.151816, 41.138400

Description:

Day use fee is $8.

Access Issues:

No bolting is allowed in the state park. This includes replacing existing bolts.

Approach:

A trails map can be obtained in the park or on the park website (http://www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=417).

Where To Stay:

Camp in the state park ($35 / night - ouch!) or stay at one of the many R.V./cabin/inn spots in nearby Trinidad.

1.4.7. Lost Rocks 0 routes in Crag

1.5. Free For All Valley 0 routes in Crag

1.6. Plumas National Forest 25 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: -120.852402, 39.876335

1.6.1. Bald Rock Area 8 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad and Boulder

Long/Lat: -121.310729, 39.647575

Description:

Bald Rock climbing areas along the Feather River upstream from Lake Oroville.

1.6.2. Grizzly Dome 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: -121.360659, 39.873463

1.6.3. Pigeon Cliff 16 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Top Rope

Long/Lat: -120.673757, 40.421131

Unique Features And Strengths:

Moderate to difficult routes right off the highway with easy access for toproping.

1.7. Sawmill Peak 0 routes in Crag

1.8. Burney Limestone 34 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Top Rope and other styles

Long/Lat: -122.002294, 40.779437

1.8.1. Approach Wall 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

1.8.2. Green Monster Wall 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Top Rope

1.8.3. Main Wall 12 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

1.8.4. Opposite Main Wall 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

1.8.5. Sunshine Wall 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

1.8.6. Outer Wall 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Top Rope

1.8.7. Warm Up Rocks 4 routes in Field

Summary:
All Boulder

1.9. Lassen Volcanic National Park 39 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: -121.471972, 40.481748

1.9.1. Belly Button 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: -121.509577, 40.482999

Access Issues:

Please abide by the seasonal off-trail travel restrictions: http://www.nps.gov/lavo/parkmgmt/current-lassen-peak-trail-status.htm

1.9.2. Eagle Peak 25 routes in Crag

Summary:
Boulder, Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: -121.517186, 40.474855

Access Issues:

Current (6/24/2012) off-trail travel restrictions affect the approach to Eagle Peak crags. For details and a map of the closure area, see http://www.nps.gov/lavo/parkmgmt/current-lassen-peak-trail-status.htm

1.9.3. Raker Peak 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: -121.475415, 40.525187

Description:

A collection of rocky outcroppings below Raker Peak provide a handful of challenging sport and traditional routes.

Approach:

Park at a pullout below Raker Peak on the south side of CA-89.

If you're coming from the north, the pullout is 1.5 miles south of the Hot Rock pullout. The craggy slope is very visible to the north as you approach the pullout.

If you're coming from the south, the pullout is 3.7 miles north of the Summit Lake North campground.

Mushroom Boulder is hidden in the trees south of the pullout. The cliff band for Raker Peak runs northwest of the pullout. It's a 15 minute approach to the cliffs.

1.9.4. Mushroom Boulder 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder
Approach:

Park at a pullout below Raker Peak on the south side of CA-89.

If you're coming from the north, the pullout is 1.5 miles south of the Hot Rock pullout. The craggy slope is very visible to the north as you approach the pullout.

If you're coming from the south, the pullout is 3.7 miles north of the Summit Lake North campground.

Mushroom Boulder is hidden in the trees south of the pullout.

1.10. Mt. Shasta Area 179 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: -122.302954, 41.259133

1.10.1. Castle Crags 113 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: -122.339433, 41.184085

Description:

Climbing at Castle Crags can be hugely rewarding but also dangerous due to the remoteness, loose rock, complicated approaches, and even more complicated descents. Bring a guide book. Grover Shipman's Mt Shasta Area Rock Climbing (ISBN 0988827204) and State Of Jefferson Rock Climber's Guide (shastabasecamp.com) are currently the most comprehensive and up-to-date.

1.10.2. Lover's Leap 63 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -122.689093, 41.361564

1.10.3. Hetch Creek Falls 0 routes in Area

1.10.4. 8-Mile Boulders 0 routes in Area

1.10.5. Mount Shasta 3 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Alpine

Long/Lat: -122.194202, 41.409571

1.11. Trinity Arêtes 70 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: -123.503099, 40.770151

1.11.1. Shooting Gallery 22 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: -123.503132, 40.770199

1.11.2. Tower of Babble 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: -123.503298, 40.770173

1.11.3. Visions Wall 11 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: -123.503547, 40.769953

1.11.4. Paisano Buttress 22 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Boulder

Long/Lat: -123.503567, 40.769758

1.11.5. NIMBY Wall 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: -123.503437, 40.769626

1.12. Land of the Lost 0 routes in Crag

1.13. Leavitt Training Area 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Boulder

Long/Lat: -120.516825, 40.382131

1.13.1. Big Face 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.14. Clear Creek 21 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Deep Water

Long/Lat: -123.587358, 41.762198

Unique Features And Strengths:

A beautiful swimming, hiking, and kayaking destination, Clear Creek also boasts fantastic deep water solo problems on solid polished rock.

Access Issues:

Part of the Klamath National Forest and partially designated as Wilderness. This area is a regional treasure -- tread lightly and Leave No Trace (www.lnt.org).

Where To Stay:

The Klamath National Forest offers abundant car and backcountry camping options, including a camping spot just 0.1 mile past Tenmile swimming hole. Happy Camp offers a motel and RV accommodations.

1.14.1. Tenmile Swimming Hole 16 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: -123.544610, 41.736273

Unique Features And Strengths:

Crystal clear deep water banked on both sides by solid overhanging rock.

Description:

You might recognize this place: the craggy slot is beautifully painted on the sign welcoming visitors to the town of Happy Camp. Crystal clear water courses through a narrow slot of polished rock. In spring the melting snow turns the creek into a challenging destination for kayakers. In summer the flow settles out and the water loses some of its chill, attracting swimmers and cliff jumpers looking to escape the heat. It's also a fantastic bouldering destination.

Approach:

Take highway 96 to FR 16N10, located some 7 miles southwest of Happy Camp and just upriver from the Wingate river access. Follow signs to Clear Creek Trail, which should take you along FR 16N10 for 1.6 miles. Turn right on FR 15N32. After 5.3 miles, turn right and drive one mile to the NoMans trailhead. A pit toilet can be found at the trailhead, so go before you go! From parking, it's an easy 1 mile hike to the swimming and climbing. Keep an eye out for poison oak and rattlesnakes.

Where To Stay:

The Klamath National Forest offers abundant car and backcountry camping options, including a camping spot just 0.1 mile past the swimming area. Happy Camp offers a motel and RV accommodations.

1.14.2. Wilderness Falls 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: -123.627729, 41.789947

Unique Features And Strengths:

Absolute solitude in a beautiful natural setting with easy to moderate bouldering over crystal clear water -- these are your rewards for hiking so far!

Description:

Be careful on the east wall of the pool to avoid falling where the rock bulges outward near the waterline. Even a slight injury can become serious when you're this far from help. Certainly other boulder problems can be found here than the ones listed below, but the fall zones would not be as clean.

Access Issues:

Part of the Siskiyou Wilderness.

Approach:

This remote spot can be reached with a full day of hiking from either the Youngs Valley, No Mans, or Doe Flat trailheads. The Forest Service sells a good topographic map of the Siskiyou Wilderness, which will direct you to the falls.

Where To Stay:

A very small spot to camp can be found near the falls. Larger groups should consider Trout Camp or West Fork as better alternatives.

Ethic:

Leave No Trace (www.lnt.org). In particular, obey fire restrictions and bring a trowel to bury your poop at least 200ft away from the water in a 6"-8" cathole. Pack out that used TP in ziplocks.