Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. San Francisco Bay Area 1,579 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Unknown, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: -121.630926, 37.692422

1.1. North Bay Area 336 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: -122.830113, 38.286097

1.1.1. Genocide Rock 0 routes in Crag

Description:

A cool standalone chert boulder with faces up to about 20' high. Some nice boulder problems on the left hand side (V0-V5) and some possible futuristic projects under the overhang. The tall, clean right hand side has a handful of 5.8+ top rope problems.

There's one manky hangerless bolt above the right hand wall, but it's best to bring a lot of long slings or a 2nd rope to sling a block way back from the edge. There's also a 1" - 2" cam flake immediately behind the bolt, but it's loose - don't trust it!

Note that the rock is exposed to the wind howling up from Rodeo Beach - it can be pretty unpleasant on cold, windy days.

Approach:

Park in the lot at the intersection of Conzelman Rd and McCullough Rd, then walk up the grassy slopes above the roundabout.

1.1.2. Mount Tamalpais 20 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Top Rope

Long/Lat: -122.594825, 37.921678

1.1.3. Mickey's Beach 58 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Boulder and Unknown

Long/Lat: -122.630916, 37.888042

1.1.4. Stinson Beach 16 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: -122.635001, 37.891327

1.1.5. Ring Mountain 50 routes in Crag

Summary:
Top Rope, Boulder and Unknown

Long/Lat: -122.493414, 37.910756

Unique Features And Strengths:

Rare rock (blueschist), slippery slabs to top-rope and steep, gym-like bouldering.

Description:
Approach:

Park at the end of Taylor Rd, Tiburon, ensuring that you're not blocking any driveways or roads. Split Rock is the obvious large rock straight ahead, while The Meatball and Turtle Rock are hidden out of sight up the gated road to the right.

1.1.6. Jenner Area 66 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and Boulder

Long/Lat: -123.116929, 38.451276

1.1.7. Fort Ross 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: -123.249354, 38.517472

1.1.8. Pomo Indian Boulders 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

1.1.9. Sugarloaf Ridge State Park 0 routes in Crag

1.1.10. Angwin 0 routes in Crag

1.1.11. Mount Saint Helena 114 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: -122.618583, 38.659485

1.2. San Francisco and Peninsula 57 routes in Area

Summary:
Boulder, Top Rope and other styles

Long/Lat: -122.487662, 37.605167

1.2.1. Lands End Bouldering 0 routes in Crag

1.2.2. Cliff House 16 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: -122.513578, 37.777745

Unique Features And Strengths:

A small, but reasonably good selection of tide-dependent highball boulder problems / topropes on a small wall and cave at the northern end of Ocean Beach, below the Cliff House.

Description:

Take care in the upper half of all of the climbs here, as the rock gets crumbly right about where it gets highball, and the top outs can be nasty (sand & loose gravel).

Top-ropes can be rigged from a massive slung boulder and a manky old rusty ring bolt in front of it. Top-roping is recommended for beginners, due to the high, crumbly topouts. If you're bouldering, bring a pad, since the sand varies in height and can be hard packed.

This wall is almost guaranteed to be cool, even on those (rare) hot San Francisco days. The rock can be damp though, particularly near and inside the cave, both because of the proximity of the ocean and because of the constant sea spray.

A large nylon brush is worth bringing, to remove the worst of the sand from the lower holds, and the loose gravel from the higher ones (especially the topouts).

The best descent and top access are to the right, facing the cliff. While it's possible to descend on the left, the rock quality is dire.

Approach:

Park in the northern-most Ocean Beach parking lot, just before the road winds up the hill to the Cliff House. Walk north along the beach (some potential on the initial grey wall beside the large block retaining wall), and the main area is located just around the first protruding nose of rocks.

1.2.3. Beaver Street Wall 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
Top Rope, Trad and Aid

Long/Lat: -122.437292, 37.765448

Unique Features And Strengths:

Located right in the middle of San Francisco, you'll find a handful of fun, moderate slab routes on incredibly unique rock.

Description:

The first thing you'll notice is the unique modification to the underlying rock (radiolarian chert): it's been polished to a glassy sheet by a shifting fault line, with just enough rough patches scattered across it to allow an ascent. In places, the rock looks like glass, polished enough to see one's reflection.

Most routes are top-roped by anchoring to the metal fence posts along the top of the cliff; however, there are options for placing marginal pro in the main crack if you're feeling particularly bold. Note however that the exceptionally polished rock will make it difficult to place bomber pieces (nuts won't "seat" very well, cams will slide right out, etc.).

The rock quality in the final 6 feet of the cliff is very poor, so be very careful to avoid knocking rocks off of the cliff when setting up a top rope or if topping out.

The mild climate of the city can mean cool climbing here in the middle of summer, but if it's foggy in the city, the rock may be wet. The cliff faces north and is hemmed in by buildings so is perpetually in the shade. The park underneath is also dark and damp, so expect it to be cold, even if it's hot on top of Corona Heights Hill.

This is a good spot if you're climbing with kids, as there's a good-sized playground right in the park directly underneath the cliff. They may be a little stymied by the tenuous nature of the climbing however.

People walk their dogs here, so watch where you step (or where you flake out your rope).

Access Issues:

In April 2014 SF Rec & Park placed signs at the cliff stating that climbing is via permit only. So far no climbers are known to have been issued with a permit, but before climbing here please at least attempt to gain one, by calling 415-831-5500.

More information is available at https://www.facebook.com/savebsw/

Approach:

The wall is located at Beaver Street and 15th Street in the northeast corner of the Corona Heights Park, right next to the Peixotto Playground. There is street parking on Beaver St. The Castro Street MUNI Metro station is 3 blocks to the south.

There is foot access for setting up a top rope; however, to maintain good relations with the neighbors, and to avoid unnecessary rockfall, do not scramble up the slopes at either end of the wall. Instead, walk south on Beaver Street until you reach the bend. Follow the pedestrian alley (De Forest) up the stairs to the right (to the end of Flint St), and take the path uphill and right until you reach the fence at the top of the wall.

1.2.4. Governor Rock 0 routes in Crag

Description:

An overgrown chert wall / boulder with a few ok problems.

Access Issues:

Very close to the UCSF Governor's Mansion (the large house above the rock). Not clear if it's public or private property. Keep an extremely low profile if you intend to climb here.

Approach:

1 minute walk from Johnstone Dr, or walk up from the southern end of Stanyan (5 mins).

1.2.5. Glen Canyon 32 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: -122.442921, 37.740548

Unique Features And Strengths:

By far the best outdoor area in San Francisco. Super convenient (10mins walk from Glen Park BART) and with unique rock.

Description:

Despite getting panned in a lot of local guidebooks, Glen Canyon is actually a great bouldering area for its size, particularly if you're willing to go beyond the obvious lines and holds, and start making up eliminates and variations (in which case you'll find that the main cliff band is an excellent training area, particularly for pinch and crimp strength).

The rock is unique and cool to climb on - chert (ultra hard, cleanly layered sedimentary rock) that has been uplifted and deformed by California's famous tectonic activity. The rock fractures into very blocky square cut holds, creating the ubiquitous "incut jug slot". While the rock is generally solid, there are a few patches that have been deformed to the point of becoming choss, and holds can and do rip off in these sections. Another unique feature are the ultra-polished sections (slickensides) - these are the surfaces of micro-faults that have been polished by millennia of sliding past each other.

Approach:

Many options, but the most straight forward for new visitors is to walk up through the canyon from the rec center end of the park (Elk St at Chenery - you'll walk up Chenery if coming from BART). Follow the gravel road north alongside the creek or take one of the trails up the hillside to the right to get to the Hillside Boulders, Black Overhang and Choss Buttress.

The first boulders you'll see are the Hillside Boulders up high on the right. Next are the Black Overhang and Choss Buttress, also up to the right. Passing the preschool on the left you'll reach the "kung fu bridge" over the swamp. Legend has it that a famous Bruce Lee scene was filmed here, hence the name. After emerging from the willows, you'll see the Main Cliff Band straight ahead up the hill; the Upper Cliff Band is partially obscured, directly behind the Main Cliff Band.

Please don't cut straight up the hill to the Main Cliff Band - SF Rec & Park has spent a lot of time in recent years track building and stabilising the hillside, and the stairs leading up to the right double back straight to the crag, making shortcutting unnecessary.

Dead Cat Rocks is visible from the top of the Main Cliff Band, further up the creek and on the opposite side. Climbing is prohibited here - please stay away to preserve good relations with SF Rec & Park.

Ethic:

Absolutely no bolts of any kind, anywhere. If you need a top rope, bring a rack and slings (there's great gear for most of the problems).

Stick to made tracks as much as possible.

Bring a plastic bag and spend 15 mins at the end of your session picking up the trash that non-climbers throw off the top - that helps keep the place open to climbing.

History:

The Sierra Club is known to have climbed here since the 1930s.

1.2.6. O'Shaughnessy Slab 0 routes in Crag

Description:

Prominent 45' slab towards the top of O'Shaughnessy Blvd, with two reasonably old bolts as anchors on top (best to bring long slings / spare ropes to back them up with trees). Technically part of Glen Canyon, but described separately as O'Shaughnessy Blvd creates an impenetrable barrier.

Access Issues:

Public property, but very close to back yards and blatantly visible to passing traffic. Keep as low a profile as possible if you're climbing here.

Approach:

Park on Del Vale Ave near the O'Shaughnessy intersection then walk through the carpark of the Miraloma Park Improvement Club and up the hill behind the eucalypts.

1.2.7. 14th Ave Buttresses 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Top Rope

Long/Lat: -122.470797, 37.753698

Description:

A quite impressive line of walls and buttresses that unfortunately doesn't quite "work". Toilet Mind being the one exception (assuming the poison oak hasn't regrown).

Access Issues:

At times climbers have been told the area is private property and off limits to climbing. This is untrue however - the cliffs are within a recognised natural area that's managed by SF Rec & Park (see http://sfrecpark.org/destination/rock-outcropping-natural-areas/).

The dirt area in front of Toilet Mind has recently been planted with natives. Please take extreme care not to step on, put gear on, or otherwise damage the plants. That's the kind of thing that really antagonizes land managers.

Approach:

Park on 14th Ave, just south of Ortega St. Take care not to obstruct any driveways - the road is very narrow.

1.2.8. Planet Granite San Francisco 0 routes in Gym

1.2.9. Mission Cliffs 0 routes in Gym

1.2.10. Dogpatch Boulders 0 routes in Gym

Unique Features And Strengths:

Incredible - one of the largest dedicated bouldering gyms in the world.

Description:

An incredible bouldering gym that's part of the "Touchstone" chain (the same company that runs Mission Cliffs and some other gyms in the Bay Area). Details at http://www.touchstoneclimbing.com/dogpatch-boulders

Approach:

Located right beside the "T" Muni line, this gym is the easiest to get to from downtown San Francisco.

History:

Opened April 2013.

1.3. East Bay Area 155 routes in Region

Summary:
Unknown, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: -122.039193, 37.835522

1.3.1. Mount Diablo 55 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: -121.919630, 37.875702

1.3.2. Diablo Rock Gym 0 routes in Gym

1.3.3. Berkeley Areas 100 routes in Crag

Summary:
Boulder, Unknown and Top Rope

Long/Lat: -122.267745, 37.865873

1.4. South Bay Area 340 routes in Region

Summary:
Unknown, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: -122.078256, 37.261643

1.4.1. Handley Rock 0 routes in Cliff

Description:

Fun urban top-roping on Bay Area sandstone.

1.4.2. Woodside Rock 0 routes in Crag

Access Issues:

Probably private property - keep a low profile.

1.4.3. Castle Rock State Park 262 routes in Crag

Summary:
Boulder, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: -122.105098, 37.231815

1.4.4. Guadalupe Rocks 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: -121.883858, 37.194338

1.4.5. Silver Creek/Cloudburst Meadows Jct 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: -121.766691, 37.270372

1.4.6. Sunol Regional Wilderness 27 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: -121.831804, 37.521731

1.4.7. Skyline Boulevard Slabs 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.4.8. Skyline Boulder 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

1.4.9. Aquarian Valley 33 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: -122.130990, 37.467176

1.4.10. Panther Beach 0 routes in Crag

1.5. Pinnacles National Monument 580 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: -121.180772, 36.490839

1.5.1. Bear Gulch Area 94 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: -121.185632, 36.477053

1.5.2. The Monolith Area 64 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: -121.186910, 36.473421

1.5.3. The Reservoir Area 73 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: -121.189620, 36.470975

1.5.4. Marmot Rock Area 14 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.5.5. The Yaks 30 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.5.6. High Peaks Trail South 16 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.5.7. Condor Gulch Area 24 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.5.8. Citadel Canyon 42 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: -121.200279, 36.492729

1.5.9. The Balconies Area 50 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: -121.203798, 36.503014

1.5.10. Machete Ridge Area 32 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: -121.201865, 36.497639

1.5.11. Juniper Canyon 22 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.5.12. High Peaks 119 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: -121.197890, 36.489500

1.6. Central Valley And Foothills 111 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: -121.446153, 38.460267

1.6.1. Putah Creek 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: -122.056294, 38.513905

1.6.2. Vacaville Boulders 12 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: -121.988823, 38.385932

1.6.3. Deer Creek Park 0 routes in Crag

Description:

Worn but fun granite bouldering (mostly quarried) not too far from Sacramento.

History:

This is where the stone for the state capitol building and San Francisco city hall was quarried.

1.6.4. Auburn Cliffs 32 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -121.018221, 38.918803

1.6.5. Cosumnes River Gorge 59 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Top Rope and other styles

Long/Lat: -120.710808, 38.647390

1.6.6. Valley Springs Klippe 0 routes in Crag

1.6.7. Knight's Ferry 0 routes in Crag

1.7. Wagon Caves 0 routes in Crag