Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Northern Sierra Nevada 1,900 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: -120.475048, 39.204847

1.1. Lake Tahoe, California Side 1,769 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: -120.452076, 39.174383

History:

These guides all document the history of Tahoe are climbs.

Climbing Guide to the Crystal Basin by Bob Branscomb. 1992.

(etc)

1.1.1. East Shore (see Nevada) 0 routes in Crag

Unique Features And Strengths:

1.1.2. Bowman Valley 20 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -120.661916, 39.440063

1.1.3. Cave Rock 0 routes in Boulder

1.1.4. Christmas Tree Valley / Meyers 67 routes in Region

Summary:
Unknown, Boulder and Sport

Long/Lat: -119.971037, 38.820128

1.1.5. Crystal Basin 39 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: -120.314596, 38.902171

1.1.6. Desolation Wilderness 0 routes in Area

Description:

A large wilderness area including both the Sierra crest and the Crystal Range, ripe with alpine lines. Like all wilderness, this is a leave-no-trace trad climbing and bouldering region.

1.1.7. Donner Summit 323 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: -120.323501, 39.318849

1.1.8. Eagle Creek Canyon 130 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: -120.113610, 38.952146

Description:

Tahoe area rock climbers refer to anything destination commonly approached from the Eagle Lake trailhead as "Eagle Lake Canyon," even though some crags in the area are physically outside of the Eagle Creek watershed.

1.1.9. Eagle Rock Ridge 0 routes in Crag

1.1.10. Echo Lakes 118 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: -120.058334, 38.841343

1.1.11. Echo Pass 0 routes in Area

1.1.12. Echo View Bouldering 20 routes in Field

Summary:
All Boulder

1.1.13. The Emeralds 57 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: -120.629333, 39.336523

1.1.14. Indian Springs 31 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Top Rope and other styles

Long/Lat: -120.566151, 39.328730

1.1.15. Lover's Leap 266 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: -120.136691, 38.801054

1.1.16. Phantom Spires 170 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: -120.250053, 38.785024

Description:

A hillside covered with tiny crags and boulders, and a a few main towering spires of granite.

Approach:

The original developers hoofed it uphill from highway 50. Today we have the luxury of a rarely maintained logging road. Low clearance cars must park on Wrights Lake Road, which adds about a mile of walking each way to the approach. The dirt road is closed seasonally during snow cover, check with Eldorado National Forest's website for current status.

Ethic:

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

History:

These formerly phantom rocks were unleashed from their concealment by a forest fire in the 1980s.

1.1.17. Pie Shop 88 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: -120.012375, 38.877791

1.1.18. Rainbow 27 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.1.19. Reno and Carson Valley Area 57 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.1.20. The Secrets 70 routes in Field

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: -120.191302, 38.759209

1.1.21. Sugarloaf 121 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: -120.308464, 38.775085

1.1.22. Trash Boulder 16 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: -120.211357, 39.309997

Description:

A wonderful boulder located close to town. Covered in good edges with problems on every side. Top rope-able with a gear anchor.

Approach:

Drive south of Save Mart on CA-89. Pass under the railroad tracks and take the first right onto a forest service road. Turn right at the fork, and look for a clearing to the right. Park and look for the boulder.

1.1.23. Truckee River Canyon 149 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: -120.185020, 39.251228

1.1.24. Bald Rock Dome 0 routes in Crag

1.2. Woodfords Canyon 23 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and Deep Water

Long/Lat: -119.832146, 38.774793

1.2.1. Bandit Buttress 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -119.835222, 38.773364

Description:

Bandit Buttress offers all year access to easy fun slab climbing. Prowler being the featured sport route. One of the easiest approaches on the North side of the canyon and set-up to be able to climb 3 to 4 routes in a short half day- Bandit Buttress is a great winter escape. Climb early morning or evening In Summer as this side of the canyon gets hot. Bolts have been placed to lean toward a sport approach but, placed in such a way that gear can be used to lead traditionally (except for Prowler and Cervesas in Zapata Land) as with the original ascents.

Approach:

Follow a fairly well marked trail up North side of canyon just uphill from the chain control pull-out above Woodford's store. Park on South side pull out area. 20 minute approach.

Ethic:

The Wordfords canyon area is stoutly traditional, and respectfully so. Bandit Buttress was established on a rather overlooked crag with the purpose of running up the hill with a rope and a dozen quick draws to knock out a handful of climbs in a short period of time during the colder months.

1.2.2. High Energy Wall 0 routes in Area

1.2.3. One Of These Days Wall 0 routes in Area

1.2.4. The Fortress 15 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: -119.853064, 38.769921

1.3. True Value Crag 0 routes in Crag

1.4. The Spot 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Top Rope

Long/Lat: -120.332738, 38.546925

Unique Features And Strengths:

Easy access. Cool patina (in spots).

Description:

Nice bouldering spot right beside highway 88.

Access Issues:

Located within Eldorado National Forest, so no access issues.

Approach:

Park right beside the boulders on forestry road 8 N 37, or carefully park on highway 88 and walk up the hill.

1.4.1. Shell Casing Rocks 0 routes in Field

Description:

So named because of the ridiculous number of spent shotgun cartridges and other shells littering the place.

A collection of boulders / pinnacles that offers one nice 30' patina face (bring gear - there is one manky rivet above one end of the face), but mostly doesn't quite "work".

Approach:

From the lower (Western) end of forestry rd 8 N 37, head up the hill to the first obvious parking area / clearing. The best patina face is located on the north eastern face of the "pancake stack" feature a little further up the hill from the initial set of boulders.

1.4.2. The Pinnacle 1 route in Unknown

Summary:

Long/Lat: -120.331433, 38.545763

Description:

A compact area offering a dozen or so good to great boulder problems as well as 55' toproping on the main pinnacle.

1.5. Calaveras Dome Area 21 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: -120.229143, 38.488430

1.5.1. Calaveras Dome 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Long/Lat: -120.227082, 38.486335

1.5.2. Hammer Dome 2 routes in Unknown

Summary:

Long/Lat: -120.227882, 38.492356

1.5.3. Stair Cliff/Rainy Day Area 3 routes in Area

Summary:

1.5.4. Deer Bridge Dome 9 routes in Area

Summary:

1.6. Hell's Kitchen 0 routes in Crag

1.7. Sonora Pass 84 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: -120.000596, 38.198640

1.7.1. Columbia 0 routes in Area

Description:

Adventure limestone bouldering with a Cowboy Western feel.

1.7.2. Table Mountain 47 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: -120.460160, 37.926994

Access Issues:

Access at Table Mountain can be tenuous, with easements providing limited access along private property. Make sure to check the Access Fund (http://status.accessfund.org/) for current restrictions, and always be respectful of the property owners.

1.7.3. Potter's Rock 0 routes in Area

1.7.4. Columns of the Giants 0 routes in Area

1.7.5. Chipmunk Flats 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.7.6. Burst Rock 32 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad, Top Rope and Sport

Long/Lat: -119.878557, 38.204148

Description:

An extensive area of high quality alpine granite, easily accessible off of Highway 108. In addition to lots of roped climbing, there is a lot of bouldering potential in the surrounding area (including on the drive in).

Approach:

If heading East on Highway 108, take a right on Crabtree Rd a few miles before Pinecrest.

If coming from Pinecrest Lake, follow Dodge Ridge Rd to the Dodge Ridge Ski Resort and take a signposted right turn at the welcome sign for the resort (where the one way loop starts). After a quarter of a mile or so this connects to Crabtree Rd - take a left.

From this junction the routes combine - follow Crabtree Rd to the Bell Meadows turn off. Stay left here on forest road 4N37 and drive all the way to the end, where there are several large parking lots. All of the Burst Rock climbing areas are accessed from this parking lot.

Note: Don't take forest road 4N34 from Dodge Ridge Ski Resort unless you have time to kill and/or want to go exploring. Although it connects to 4N37 at the far end, it's in much poorer condition than 4N37, and is therefore much slower (and could be impassable in early season). Lots of hunters also use this road during hunting season - if you go exploring off the road wear brightly coloured clothes.

1.7.7. Second Quarry 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.7.8. Two Mile Bar 0 routes in Crag

1.7.9. Herring Creek Dome 0 routes in Area

1.8. Walker River Canyon, US 395 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: -119.454413, 38.449679

1.8.1. 395 Boulders 1 route in Field

Summary:

Long/Lat: -119.460511, 38.456280

Description:

Beautiful blocks of white alpine granite have been kindly deposited along the side of US 395, so you can break up your drive with this excellent roadside attraction.

Approach:

Located at the base of a scree field on the west side of US-395, it's almost as if Caltrans made a pullout just for your bouldering.

History:

The boulders used to be higher up on the slope, but have more recently come to rest a more convenient location.

1.9. Carson River Canyon, US 395 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: -119.645746, 39.194024