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Description

Climbing at Castle Crags can be hugely rewarding but also dangerous due to the remoteness, loose rock, complicated approaches, and even more complicated descents. Bring a guide book. Grover Shipman's Mt Shasta Area Rock Climbing (ISBN 0988827204) and State Of Jefferson Rock Climber's Guide (shastabasecamp.com) are currently the most comprehensive and up-to-date.

Areas

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Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
16
17
120ft
2
18
11
650ft
3
Root Creek Cliff
2
0
Magic Rib Cliff
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0
0
-
0
0
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0
0
-
0
0
Gray Dome Cliff
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0
0
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0
0
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0
0
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0
0
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0
0
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0
0

Routes

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Grade Route

Unsorted:

19
5.10b *** The Perfumed Garden Trad 820ft

From the FA: "Without a picture I'm not sure, but the name Great Chimney rings a bell. This chimney is on the leftmost substantial peak of Castle Crags when viewed from the road on the south side, i.e. the South Face. We climbed this route in about 6 pitches, the 2nd or 3rd pitch being a 50m sqeeze chimney without protection which we thought to be 5.9. Above the chimney we went left a few metres and finished up a thin leftwards trending groove which was about 5.10b/20. To descend we dropped north into a canyon wnd followed it to the east and then the south to the road. This route appeared to have been attempted as there was some abseil tat low in the chimney and no signs above. We did some gardening/cleaning of the crux pitch on ascent. We named the route The Perfumed Garden After the blooming fragrant honeysuckle encountered in the canyon on our descent. Hope you like this."

FA: Calum Hudson, Trevor Jones

Open trips

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