Routes in Six Toe Rock

Climb the right-leaning crack in two pitches to join Six Toe Crack at the notch.

Climb the right-leaning crack to join Six Toe Crack at the first belay anchor.

1. 100ft (5.8) Move through the early crux, then follow the crack straight up,.

2. 100ft (5.8) Continue up the crack, then struggle through a short off-width section. Rappel, or ...

3. 100ft (5.6) ... continue up the dihedral to the right to gain the summit.

Pro to 4.5" with widest pro at the off-width crux. #5 C4 or #11 BD hex will see you through.

Climb the crack / chimney up the left-facing dihedral to the right of Six Toe Crack, tunneling behind the massive chockstone. Finish at the bolted anchor shared with Six Toe Crack. Pro to 4".

1. Start on Chocksucker, but traverse right to the arête after passing the P1 anchor of Six Toe Crack. Belay at the ledge with the bushes.

2. Continue up the arête to the summit.

Climb about 30' up easy 5th class dihedral, on left side of large roof, then traverse left and up face placing gear in flakes as you go. About 50' up, face thins out and you make delicate moves past 2 bolts and 10a crux to gain a right-facing dihedral. Layback up to the top of the dihedral, and reach left to a large detached flake with a spike of rock on top which can be slung with a long runner. Follow cracks straight up another 40' to chain anchor. Pro to 3". 60m rope suffices to lower to easy terrain (tie a knot in the end).

Start on Apnea. After initial bouldery start climb up layback crack about 10' then traverse right to a bolt on thin face moves (11-). Continue right a bit then straight up to another bolt and pass bolt crux (11b/c). Place #4 BD stopper or equivalent from a dicey stance, traverse back left a couple of moves, then up for about 10'-15' of solid 5.10r until you gain a layback flake and pro. Continue to a roof with a bolt, turn roof (10-), and traverse back into the 5.10 finish of Apnea. Pro to 3".

Ultra Classic. Start just left of large roof. Bouldery start at a bolt to sustained thin crack/seam with good but sporty pro. Turn a small roof, and climb face on thin but positive edges to a larger roof. Turn roof 'crux' and continue up steep sporty cracks to chain anchor. Pro to 3".

Classic. Start left of Apnea about 40' up on a ledge just left of flaky right-facing dihedral. From ledge do a mantle 10a move on perfect marble like rock to gain a bolt, then up a rounded arête to a layback crack. Throw in some bomber gear, and layback up a couple of moves. Make a face move back right, and climb up to a roof. Power through roof 11a crux, then up thin face to another cruxy move 10d to chain anchor. Pro to 0.75".

Same start as Aliens Are My Friends. From top of crack head left and up to split crack in roof. Place gear and bust over roof crux, then traverse right and finish up on Aliens Are My Friends. Pro to 3".

Left of Aliens Are My Freinds about 15' climb up thin cracks with tricky gear then clip a bolt. Head up and left to a crack, place some gear, and make thin moves left to another bolt. Bust straight up and over powerful roof crux, then up more thin moves and tricky gear. Head right to the top anchor shared with Aliens Are My Friends. Beware of loose blocks near anchor. Pro to 1".

Classic. One of the few sport climbs at the Crags. Bring a sling for a horn up high. Top anchor shared with The Seeker.

On east face of the Grotto behind and a little up from Apnea. Climb up steep clean right facing crack, place a large cam in a pocket and make powerful move over a roof 10d'crux' then head left and up on steep terrain with large hold and marginal gear. make a move up onto a ramp head up ramp until you can access a tree with slings around it to rappel and/or set up a top rope. Pro to 4".

Climb up face past 3 bolts, slinging horns between bolts.

Pro to 3".

Climb overhanging splitter crack on arête, which is at the opening of the Grotto, for 40'. Then turn corner onto lower angle side and meander up face with tricky gear placements for another 60'. Pro to 4".