A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Castle Crags 113 routes in Crag

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: -122.339433, 41.184085


Climbing at Castle Crags can be hugely rewarding but also dangerous due to the remoteness, loose rock, complicated approaches, and even more complicated descents. Bring a guide book. Grover Shipman's Mt Shasta Area Rock Climbing (ISBN 0988827204) and State Of Jefferson Rock Climber's Guide (shastabasecamp.com) are currently the most comprehensive and up-to-date.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents


1 *** The Perfumed Garden

From the FA: "Without a picture I'm not sure, but the name Great Chimney rings a bell. This chimney is on the leftmost substantial peak of Castle Crags when viewed from the road on the south side, i.e. the South Face. We climbed this route in about 6 pitches, the 2nd or 3rd pitch being a 50m sqeeze chimney without protection which we thought to be 5.9. Above the chimney we went left a few metres and finished up a thin leftwards trending groove which was about 5.10b/20. To descend we dropped north into a canyon wnd followed it to the east and then the south to the road. This route appeared to have been attempted as there was some abseil tat low in the chimney and no signs above. We did some gardening/cleaning of the crux pitch on ascent. We named the route The Perfumed Garden After the blooming fragrant honeysuckle encountered in the canyon on our descent. Hope you like this."

FA: Calum Hudson, Trevor Jones

5.10bTrad 820ft

1.1. Castle Dome Trail Area 27 routes in Area

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: -122.325795, 41.168204

1.1.1. Peach Brandy Wall 2 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: -122.326749, 41.167419

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Peach Brandy Wall

FFA: Wayne Schiff, Michael Zanger, Cathy McReady, 1980

2 * Peaches and Cream

Old pitons protect the overhanging start.

FFA: unknown


1.1.2. Super Crack Spire 5 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: -122.325458, 41.167534

Descent Notes:

Descend by rappelling the Regular Route from the bolted anchors above the east face.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Super Crack

Great jams and frequent stemming rests characterize this obvious crack and left-facing corner on the south side of the spire. Bolted top anchor is near the summit, far from the top of the crack. Build a gear anchor for top-roping. Descend by rappelling from the east side of the spire. Pro to 4".

FFA: Jerry Sublett?

2 Regular Route

FFA: unknown

3 South Arête

Two pitches up the south arête. The Falcon guide sandbagged this at 5.6!

FFA: unknown

4 Spreading the Stoke

FFA: Bill Repetto, Jeff Gorris, 1996

5.10cMixed 1
5 West Crack

FFA: John Bald


1.1.3. Warmup Wall 2 routes in Cliff

Top Rope and Trad

Long/Lat: -122.325999, 41.167863

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Warmup Route

~90ft to the chains, ~110ft to the tree which is reachable with a scramble up the gully to the left. The crux comes late with sparse gear placements for last 20 feet. Pro to 2" or 3".

FFA: unknown

5.9Trad 90ft
2 * Unknown 1

Top-rope the line up the right side of the face to join Warmup Route just below the shared chains.

5.9Top rope 90ft

1.1.4. Windsong Wall 3 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: -122.326500, 41.167937

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rollercoaster

3rd class approach.

  1. (5.9+ R) Climb the right side of the pinnacle, then wander up run out climbing past some bolts and fixed gear. Two ropes suggested.

  2. (5.10c) Thin cracks with few placements lead to the summit.

Scramble off to the right.

FFA: Byron Cross, Roosevelt Watson

5.10c RMixed 1
2 ** One Hand Scratching
  1. 85ft (5.10c) Climb past five bolts to a bolted belay.

  2. (5.10b R) Continue up runout climbing past three bolts and thin cracks to the summit.

Rappel after just pitch one, or scramble off to the right from the summit.

FFA: Byron Cross, et al.

5.10c RMixed 8
3 Disappointment Dihedral

Chimney climbing. Approach from the right (4th class) or directly from below (5.7).

FFA: Lincoln Frees or Ron Crumm?


1.1.5. Pincushion Wall 7 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: -122.325177, 41.167917

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Lower Pincushion Wall

1 * First Aid

A bolt protects face climbing to the crack. A few good hand jams lead up to the 2 bolt top anchor with chains.

FFA: unknown

5.10aMixed 1
2 * Mild Steel
  1. 140ft (5.10b) Ascend the crack, then clip bolts up the face to the bolted anchor shared with Whisper. Double rope rappel, or ...

  2. 40ft (5.8/5.9) ... continue up the obvious crack. Walk off down the trail back to Newspaper Ledge.

FFA: Stan Miller, Byron Cross, 1991

5.10bMixed 180ft, 3
3 Whisper

Cracks and flakes lead up to a bolted anchor shared with Mild Steel.

FFA: unknown


Upper Pincushion Wall

4 * Psycho

FFA: Byron Cross, Roosevelt Watson, 1981

5.9Mixed 5
5 * Snag
  1. (5.9) Lead up the crack to the overhang, and set up a belay above the overhang.

  2. (5.11c) Traverse left. The first bolt is up and right. Follow the bolts to the top.

FFA: Travis Klawin

FA: Byron Cross, Roosevelt Watson, 1981

5.11cMixed 4
6 The Flakes

FFA: unknown

7 Inside Out

FFA: unknown


1.1.6. Bulldog Rock 4 routes in Cliff

Top Rope, Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: -122.324740, 41.168325

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Left Route 5.11+Top rope 80ft
2 ** Bulldog Direct / The Bolt Route

Careful footwork and technical face climbing leads straight up the line of bolts. Stick to the newer hardware, avoiding the (obviously) suspect bolt hanger as well as the (obviously) suspect chain top anchor.

FFA: unknown

5.10cSport 80ft, 9
3 Flake n' Shake

Start right of Bulldog Direct and climb up to the hanging flake. Continue up the flakes, staying right of the bolts.

5.10bTop rope 80ft
4 ** The Peanut

Starts to the right of Bulldog Direct. Ascend the huecos and pockets, then follow the right leaning crack up to the crux at the piton. Continue up, then left back to the Bulldog Direct anchor. Pro to 2.5".

FFA: unknown

5.10bTrad 70ft

1.1.7. Snag Spire 2 routes in Sector

All Trad

Long/Lat: -122.325777, 41.169101

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 South Face

FFA: unknown

2 West Face

FFA: unknown


1.1.8. Saddle Spire 1 route in Sector

All Trad

Long/Lat: -122.325373, 41.168632

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 South Arête

FFA: unknown


1.1.9. Sidekick Boulder 1 route in Sector

All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sidekick

FFA: unknown

5.9Trad 30ft

1.2. Six Toe Rock 16 routes in Cliff

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: -122.327019, 41.169695

Descent Notes:

From the summit, either rappel Six Toe Crack with a single rope, or double-rope rappel (free hanging!) off of the backside into The Grotto.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Easy Street

Climb the right-leaning crack in two pitches to join Six Toe Crack at the notch.

FFA: unknown

2 * Easy On

Climb the right-leaning crack to join Six Toe Crack at the first belay anchor.

FFA: unknown

3 ** Six Toe Crack
  1. 100ft (5.8) Move through the early crux, then follow the crack straight up,.

  2. 100ft (5.8) Continue up the crack, then struggle through a short off-width section. Rappel, or ...

  3. 100ft (5.6) ... continue up the dihedral to the right to gain the summit.

Pro to 4.5" with widest pro at the off-width crux. #5 C4 or #11 BD hex will see you through.

FFA: unknown

5.8Trad 300ft
4 ** Chocksucker

Climb the crack / chimney up the left-facing dihedral to the right of Six Toe Crack, tunneling behind the massive chockstone. Finish at the bolted anchor shared with Six Toe Crack. Pro to 4".

FFA: Coy Wellborn?

5.10aTrad 200ft
5 * Purple Heart
  1. Start on Chocksucker, but traverse right to the arête after passing the P1 anchor of Six Toe Crack. Belay at the ledge with the bushes.

  2. Continue up the arête to the summit.

FFA: unknown


1.2.1. The Grotto 11 routes in Sector

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: -122.327149, 41.169729

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Killer Tofu

Climb about 30' up easy 5th class dihedral, on left side of large roof, then traverse left and up face placing gear in flakes as you go. About 50' up, face thins out and you make delicate moves past 2 bolts and 10a crux to gain a right-facing dihedral. Layback up to the top of the dihedral, and reach left to a large detached flake with a spike of rock on top which can be slung with a long runner. Follow cracks straight up another 40' to chain anchor. Pro to 3". 60m rope suffices to lower to easy terrain (tie a knot in the end).

FFA: Ian Katz, Amy Katz, 2002

5.10a RMixed 120ft, 2
2 *** Meclazine Dream

Start on Apnea. After initial bouldery start climb up layback crack about 10' then traverse right to a bolt on thin face moves (11-). Continue right a bit then straight up to another bolt and pass bolt crux (11b/c). Place #4 BD stopper or equivalent from a dicey stance, traverse back left a couple of moves, then up for about 10'-15' of solid 5.10r until you gain a layback flake and pro. Continue to a roof with a bolt, turn roof (10-), and traverse back into the 5.10 finish of Apnea. Pro to 3".

FFA: Steve Webber, Ian Katz, 2002

5.11d RMixed 120ft, 4
3 *** Apnea

Ultra Classic. Start just left of large roof. Bouldery start at a bolt to sustained thin crack/seam with good but sporty pro. Turn a small roof, and climb face on thin but positive edges to a larger roof. Turn roof 'crux' and continue up steep sporty cracks to chain anchor. Pro to 3".

FFA: Ian Katz, 2002

5.12dMixed 110ft, 5
4 *** Aliens Are My Friends

Classic. Start left of Apnea about 40' up on a ledge just left of flaky right-facing dihedral. From ledge do a mantle 10a move on perfect marble like rock to gain a bolt, then up a rounded arête to a layback crack. Throw in some bomber gear, and layback up a couple of moves. Make a face move back right, and climb up to a roof. Power through roof 11a crux, then up thin face to another cruxy move 10d to chain anchor. Pro to 0.75".

FFA: Ian Katz, Steve Webber, 2002

5.11aMixed 90ft, 5
5 ** Mixed Nuts

Same start as Aliens Are My Friends. From top of crack head left and up to split crack in roof. Place gear and bust over roof crux, then traverse right and finish up on Aliens Are My Friends. Pro to 3".

FFA: Ian Katz, 2002

5.10d RMixed 90ft, 3
6 ** Illegal Alien

Left of Aliens Are My Freinds about 15' climb up thin cracks with tricky gear then clip a bolt. Head up and left to a crack, place some gear, and make thin moves left to another bolt. Bust straight up and over powerful roof crux, then up more thin moves and tricky gear. Head right to the top anchor shared with Aliens Are My Friends. Beware of loose blocks near anchor. Pro to 1".

FFA: Ian Katz, 2002

5.11bMixed 90ft, 3
7 *** Hanuman

Classic. One of the few sport climbs at the Crags. Bring a sling for a horn up high. Top anchor shared with The Seeker.

FFA: Ian Katz, 2006

5.11dSport 80ft, 8
8 ** The Seeker

On east face of the Grotto behind and a little up from Apnea. Climb up steep clean right facing crack, place a large cam in a pocket and make powerful move over a roof 10d'crux' then head left and up on steep terrain with large hold and marginal gear. make a move up onto a ramp head up ramp until you can access a tree with slings around it to rappel and/or set up a top rope. Pro to 4".

FFA: Ian Katz, Steve Webber, 2002

5.10d RTrad 100ft
9 *** Breaking The Law

Climb up face past 3 bolts, slinging horns between bolts.

FFA: Styles Larsen, Steve Webber

5.11bMixed 90ft, 3
10 ** Gland Entry

Pro to 3".

FFA: Jonathan Knight, Styles Larsen

FFA: Styles Larsen, Steve Webber

5.11a RMixed 80ft, 3
11 *** Stellar

Climb overhanging splitter crack on arête, which is at the opening of the Grotto, for 40'. Then turn corner onto lower angle side and meander up face with tricky gear placements for another 60'. Pro to 4".

FFA: Jonathan Knight, Styles Larsen

FFA: Styles Larsen, Wilbur

5.12aMixed 100ft, 3

1.3. The Mansion 1 route in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: -122.325922, 41.171945

Descent Notes:

Just walk down the Castle Crags Trail.

1.3.1. East Face 1 route in Sector


Long/Lat: -122.325611, 41.172481

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Casino

FFA: Peter Chesko, Tim Loughlin, Darin Klep

5.11aMixed 8

1.4. Castle Dome 18 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: -122.326543, 41.174570

1.4.1. East Face 13 routes in Sector


Long/Lat: -122.326048, 41.174217

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Approach via Crags Trail:

1 Maiden Voyage

Finish on P2 of The Good Book.

FFA: Lincoln Freese or Craig Ballenger

5.10 RMixed 1
2 I-5

Finish on P2 of The Good Book.

5.10Mixed 1
3 * The Good Book

Pro to 3".

5.10aMixed 1

Approach via Root Creek:

4 ** Following Spirit

Pro to 4".

  1. 100' (5.9)

  2. 100' (5.11)

  3. 80' (5.10 R) Run out on 5.9 terrain.

  4. 150' (5.10+ R) Run out on 5.8 terrain.

  5. 230' (5.8 R)

  6. (5.9)

FFA: Tim Loughlin, Todd Burrill, Pete Pupator, Peter Chesko

5.11c RMixed 800ft, 14
5 The Consolation Prize

FFA: Tim Loughlin, Byron Cross

6 * Castle Blaster / The Oregonian

Pro to 4". Guides disagree on grades (5.8 to 5.10) and number of pitches (5 to 8).

FFA: Charles "Rockchuck" Porter

5.10aMixed 900ft, 5
7 *** East Face / The Dike Route

Most pitches are PG13 / R. An area classic, but long run-outs, old bolts, tricky placements, and a 4th class walk off should deter anyone not solid at the grade. Pro to 3".

  1. 165' (5.9 R)

  2. 160' (5.8)

  3. 90' (5.10c)

  4. 95' (5.10b)

  5. 110' (5.10d)

  6. 100' (5.9+)

  7. 150' (5.9)

  8. 200'? (5.0)

Descend by downclimbing the 'Regular Route' on the SW face.

FFA: John Bald, Stan Miller, Peter Chesko, Byron Cross, 1991

5.10d RMixed 1100ft, 8
8 Brothel

FFA: Jake Whittaker, Tim Dolan, Tim Loughlin

5.12a RTrad
9 Temporary Setback

FFA: Tim Loughlin

10 ** Golden Flow

Pro from micro nuts to 2".

FFA: Ian Katz, 2006

5.10d RMixed 150ft, 2
11 ** Lunar Flow

Pro to 1".

FFA: Ian Katz, 2002

5.11aMixed 4
12 *** Castle Corner

Pro to 3".

FA: Jerry Sublett

FFA: Ian Katz, 2002

13 ** Year of the Dragon

Pro from micro nuts to 2".

FFA: Ian Katz, Styles Larsen, 2002

5.12a RMixed 80ft, 4

1.4.2. West Face 3 routes in Sector


Long/Lat: -122.327051, 41.174048

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * West Ridge / Northwest Ridge

Pro to 4". Descend by down climbing The Regular Route.

FFA: Bob Rears, 1964

5.8Mixed 2
2 Fetal Gesture

FFA: Paul Gagner

3 *** SW Scramble / The Regular Route
  1. (Class 2-3)

  2. (Class 2+)

  3. (Class 3)

  4. (Class 4 / 5.0)

Class 4 XTrad 840ft

1.4.3. North Face 2 routes in Sector


Long/Lat: -122.326687, 41.175340

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Northeast Ridge

FFA: unknown

5.10 RTrad
2 * North Face / Northeast Face

5.10b or 5.9 C0 via pendulum traverse (on 1/4" bolts).

FA: Lincoln Frees, Clay Cox, Mike Seeley, 1977

5.10b RTrad

1.5. Root Creek 2 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: -122.324846, 41.174414

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Dike Hike

Pro to 3".

  1. (5.4)

  2. (5.8)

  3. (5.4)

FFA: Peter Chesko, Mike Murdoch

2 Dunsmuir Avenue

Pro to 3".

  1. (5.8)

  2. (5.9)

  3. (5.7)

  4. (5.10c)

  5. (5.0)

FFA: Paul Gagner, Mark Blanchard, Eben Twombly, Mike Welch, 1984


1.6. Mt. Hubris 5 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: -122.334155, 41.174492

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Great Chimney

FFA: Chuck Pratt, John Ohrenschall, 1955

2 *** Solar Wind
  1. 200' (5.7)

  2. 165' (5.10d)

  3. 165' (5.10a R)

  4. 100' (5.9+)

  5. P5 of Cosmic Wall.

FFA: Stan Miller, Tim Loughlin, Peter Chesko, Todd Burrill

5.10d RMixed 770ft, 4
3 * Faceted Dike

After P1 of Cosmic Wall, move left to climb inside the ogre's eye. Continue up, rejoining Cosmic Wall at the base of P4.

FFA: Tim Loughlin, Todd Burrill, Sean Kinney, 1992

5.10b RTrad
4 *** Cosmic Wall

Stay high on the saddle to follow faint trails through the manzanita from the Crags Trail towards the descent gully. Skirt left around the base of Mt Hubris until you reach the large tree at the base of the right-facing dihedral that marks the beginning of the route.

  1. 180ft (5.5) Follow the right-facing dihedral to its end at a chockstone and large tree (optional belay). Continue up the low angle face to belay from a smaller tree.

  2. 110ft (5.6) Continue up and right along a broken dike, passing a piton. When level with the ogre's eye, make an airy crux traverse right to the bolted anchor on the comfy ledge.

  3. 200ft (5.6) Reverse the traverse, then head up low angle run-out slabs to a left-facing dihedral. Pass a pair of bad bolts and continue up and left to a large ledge with a tree.

  4. 160ft (5.6) Large flakes lead up to a notch just below the final ridge line. Belay from gear.

  5. 140ft (5.4) Follow the ridge line to the bolted summit and soak up the exposure.

Descend the NE face with a 90ft rappel from chains, then an 80ft rappel from rings. Follow the 3rd class gully back down to meet the saddle approach trail in the manzanita.

Gear: 60m rope, standard rack to 3" plus long slings for horns and thread-throughs.

FFA: Michael Zanger, Chris Bonington, Andre Nowacki, 1979

5.6Trad 790ft
5 * Golden Opportunity
  1. (5.7 R)

  2. (5.9)

  3. (5.0) Traverse left to link up with P4 of Cosmic Wall.

FFA: Tim Loughlin, Linda Ryan, 1992

5.9 RTrad

1.7. Beck's Tower 43 routes in Cliff

Mostly Trad

1.7.1. Marble Gully 24 routes in Sector

Mostly Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * More Bolts Less Nuts

Pro to 1".

FFA: Ian Katz

5.12bMixed 80ft, 5
2 Organic Mechanic

Pro to 0.75".

FFA: Ian Katz, 2007

5.12b RMixed 80ft, 4
3 *** Ducks on Parade

Pro to 4".

FFA: Mike Imperial

5.8Trad 80ft
4 ** License to Love

Pro to 3".

FFA: Ian Katz

5.11bMixed 90ft, 2
5 * Feel the Love

Pro to 2".

FFA: Ian Katz

5.11cMixed 90ft, 2
6 *** Knot The End

Pro to 2".

FFA: Ian Katz

FFA: Ian Katz, 2007

5.11cMixed 110ft, 2
7 *** Impeach The President

Pro to 1".

FFA: Steve Webber, Ian Katz

5.10c PG13Mixed 100ft, 3
8 More Nuts Less Bolts

Pro to 4".

FFA: Ian Katz, Styles Larsen, 2007

5.10c RTrad 90ft
9 *** Bush Doctor
  1. 90' (5.10b) 1 bolt. Pro to 3".

  2. 100' (5.10c PG) 2 bolts. Pro to 4".

FFA: Styles Larsen, Ian Katz

FFA: Ian Katz, 2007

5.10bMixed 190ft, 3
10 ** Medicine Man

Pro to 3".

FFA: Ian Katz

FA: Ian Katz

5.10aTrad 100ft
11 *** Kali Crack

Pro to 3".

FFA: Ian Katz

FA: Ian Katz

12 ** Stone Roots

Pro to 3".

FFA: Ian Katz

5.10aMixed 90ft, 2
13 *** Summer Breeze

Pro to

FA: Ian Katz

FFA: Ian Katz, 2007

5.11aSport 90ft, 5
14 *** Jugs on the Horizon
  1. 90' (5.11b) 2 bolts. Pro to 2".

  2. 90' (5.11b) 2 bolts. Pro to 3".

  3. 150' (5.easy)

FFA: Ian Katz, Styles Larsen, 2007

5.11bMixed 330ft, 4
15 * Traverse on the Horizon

Exit right on Jugs on the Horizon 10' before the P1 anchor, and traverse right then up to the Marbelous anchor. Pro to 2".

FFA: Ian Katz

FA: Ian Katz

5.10+Mixed 100ft, 3
16 Marbelous / Marble-ous

An area test-piece in the bold traditional style. Pro to 2".

FFA: Ian Katz

FA: Ian Katz, 2007

5.12d RTrad 110ft
17 *** Marble Monkey

Pro to 2".

FFA: Ian Katz

FA: Ian Katz

5.13a RTrad 100ft
18 *** The Flying Monkey

Pro to 1".

FA: Ian Katz

FFA: Ian Katz

5.13b RMixed 120ft, 3
19 *** Don't Give Up the Fight

Pro to 0.5".

FFA: Ian Katz, Styles Larsen

5.12 RMixed 110ft, 8
20 ** Get Up Stand Up

Pro to 2".

FFA: Ian Katz, Styles Larsen, 2007

5.12aMixed 100ft, 3
21 ** Fight For Your Right
  1. 100' (5.11a R) 2 bolts. Pro to 2". (5.9 run out.)

  2. 150' (5.12) 3 bolts. Pro to 4".

Descend with 2 ropes.

FFA: Ian Katz, Styles Larsen, 2007

5.12b RMixed 250ft, 5
22 ** Angry Lion

Pro to 5".

FFA: Ian Katz

5.11cMixed 110ft, 1
23 ** Dirty Bus Driver

Pro to 2".

FFA: Styles Larsen, Wilbur

5.10Trad 100ft
24 *** Bhakti Path

Pro to 3".

FFA: Ian Katz

FA: Ian Katz

5.11Mixed 110ft, 5

1.7.2. South Face 10 routes in Sector

Trad, Sport and Aid
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Beckoning
  1. 102' (5.11a) 2 bolts. Pro to 3".

  2. 150' (5.11b R) 4 bolts. Pro to 4".

  3. (5.12?) Project

FFA: Steve Wbber, Ian Katz, Ryan Galbraith, Grover Shipman

5.11b RMixed Project 250ft, 5
2 *** Gold Standard

FFA: Ian Katz

FA: Steve Webber, Ryan Galbraith

5.11cSport 95ft, 8
3 * West Buttress
  1. 100' (5.7)

  2. 70' (5.8+)

  3. 150' (5.10)

  4. 180' (5.10+ X)

Two 70m ropes suggested for descent. Pro to 7" with extras 1.5"-3".

FFA: unknown

5.10+ III XMixed 500ft, 3
4 Hoyt Wall
  1. (5.4)

  2. (5.11)

  3. (5.10)

  4. ?

  5. ?

  6. ?

FFA: Tim Loughlin, Stan Miller, 1997

5.10+ IVTrad
5 ** The Tree Route
  1. 100' (5.6)

  2. 100' (5.11b) 5 bolts. Pro to 1".

FFA: Stan Miller, Ian Katz, Styles Larsen

5.11bMixed 200ft, 5
6 * The Dreamer
  1. 100' (5.6)

  2. 100' (5.12a) 4 bolts. Pro to 1".

  3. 200' (5.11) 4 bolts. Pro to 4".

  4. ?

  5. ?

  6. ?

  7. Project

Most recent progress: http://drewsplan.blogspot.com/2013/05/castle-crags-ca-dreamer-on-becks-tower.html

5.12aMixed Project 8
7 South Face Direct
  1. (5.6)

  2. (5.10)

  3. (A2)

  4. (A2)

  5. (A3)

  6. (5.9)

  7. (5.9)

FA: Tim Loughlin, Stan Miller, 1992

5.10 A3+Aid
8 ** Clean Up Crew
  1. 200ft (5.11a) 1 bolt. Pro to 4".

  2. (5.?) Project.

5.11aMixed Project 1
9 South Face Dike / Southeast Buttress
  1. 150' (5.10) 1 bolt.

  2. (5.10+) 3 bolts.

  3. (5.10-)

  4. (5.9)

FFA: John Bald, et al.

5.10+Mixed 600ft, 4
10 * East Buttress
  1. 140' (5.11a) 6 bolts. Pro to 3".

  2. 150' (5.10b) 1 bolt. Pro to 5" extra 3"-4".

  3. 100' (5.10a) Pro to 4".

5.11aMixed 390ft, 7

1.7.3. West Face 9 routes in Sector

Mostly Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Gangela

Former project of Ian Katz.

Trad Project
2 * Monkey Butt

Pro to 3".

FFA: Ian Katz

5.10aTrad 80ft
3 * Naga-Asana 5.12aSport 80ft, 6
4 ** Dagger Dihedral

Pro to 5".

FFA: Tim Loughlin, John Stanley

5.11cMixed 90ft, 2
5 ** Burly Girl

Climb after P1 of Right Crack. Pro to 4.5".

FFA: Unknown

5.11bTrad 90ft
6 Burly Chimney

Wide pro.

FFA: Unknown

5.10b RTrad 90ft
7 ** Right Crack
  1. 50' (5.10b) Pro to 1".

  2. 90' (5.10b) Pro to 3".

FFA: Unknown

5.10bTrad 140ft
8 ** Beck's Chimney / Falcon Pinnacle

Pro to 2".

FFA: Unknown

5.10a RTrad 100ft
9 *** Tagged

Pro to 3".

FFA: Ian Katz

5.11bMixed 100ft, 6

1.8. Magic Rib 0 routes in Cliff

1.9. Battle Mountain 0 routes in Cliff

1.10. Gotta-Want-It Wall 0 routes in Cliff

1.11. The Gatehouse 0 routes in Cliff

1.12. Gray Dome 0 routes in Cliff

1.13. Attractive Dome 0 routes in Cliff

1.14. Luddon's Hangover 0 routes in Cliff

1.15. The Thimble 0 routes in Cliff

1.16. Hit or Miss Rock 0 routes in Cliff

1.17. Railroad Park 0 routes in Cliff

1.18. Battle Rock 0 routes in Cliff

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
Class 4 *** SW Scramble Trad 840ft 1.4.2. West Face
5.6 Regular Route Trad 1.1.2. Super Crack Spire
South Face Trad 1.1.7. Snag Spire
* Easy Street Trad 1.2. Six Toe Rock
*** Cosmic Wall Trad 790ft 1.6. Mt. Hubris
5.7 South Arête Trad 1.1.8. Saddle Spire
* Easy On Trad 1.2. Six Toe Rock
5.8 * Peach Brandy Wall Trad 1.1.1. Peach Brandy Wall
South Arête Trad 1.1.2. Super Crack Spire
Disappointment Dihedral Trad 1.1.4. Windsong Wall
Inside Out Trad 1.1.5. Pincushion Wall
The Flakes Trad 1.1.5. Pincushion Wall
Whisper Trad 1.1.5. Pincushion Wall
* Purple Heart Trad 1.2. Six Toe Rock
** Six Toe Crack Trad 300ft 1.2. Six Toe Rock
* West Ridge Mixed 2 1.4.2. West Face
** Dike Hike Trad 1.5. Root Creek
The Great Chimney Trad 1.6. Mt. Hubris
*** Ducks on Parade Trad 80ft 1.7.1. Marble Gully
5.9 ** Super Crack Trad 1.1.2. Super Crack Spire
* Unknown 1 Top rope 90ft 1.1.3. Warmup Wall
* Warmup Route Trad 90ft 1.1.3. Warmup Wall
* Psycho Mixed 5 1.1.5. Pincushion Wall
West Face Trad 1.1.7. Snag Spire
Sidekick Trad 30ft 1.1.9. Sidekick Boulder
* Golden Opportunity Trad 1.6. Mt. Hubris
5.10a * Peaches and Cream Trad 1.1.1. Peach Brandy Wall
West Crack Trad 1.1.2. Super Crack Spire
* First Aid Mixed 1 1.1.5. Pincushion Wall
** Chocksucker Trad 200ft 1.2. Six Toe Rock
*** Killer Tofu Mixed 120ft, 2 1.2.1. The Grotto
* Castle Blaster Mixed 900ft, 5 1.4.1. East Face
* The Good Book Mixed 1 1.4.1. East Face
** Medicine Man Trad 100ft 1.7.1. Marble Gully
** Stone Roots Mixed 90ft, 2 1.7.1. Marble Gully
** Beck's Chimney Trad 100ft 1.7.3. West Face
* Monkey Butt Trad 80ft 1.7.3. West Face
5.10b *** The Perfumed Garden Trad 820ft 1. Castle Crags
* Mild Steel Mixed 180ft, 3 1.1.5. Pincushion Wall
Flake n' Shake Top rope 80ft 1.1.6. Bulldog Rock
** The Peanut Trad 70ft 1.1.6. Bulldog Rock
* North Face Trad 1.4.3. North Face
* Faceted Dike Trad 1.6. Mt. Hubris
*** Bush Doctor Mixed 190ft, 3 1.7.1. Marble Gully
Burly Chimney Trad 90ft 1.7.3. West Face
** Right Crack Trad 140ft 1.7.3. West Face
5.10c Spreading the Stoke Mixed 1 1.1.2. Super Crack Spire
** One Hand Scratching Mixed 8 1.1.4. Windsong Wall
Rollercoaster Mixed 1 1.1.4. Windsong Wall
** Bulldog Direct Sport 80ft, 9 1.1.6. Bulldog Rock
Dunsmuir Avenue Trad 1.5. Root Creek
*** Impeach The President Mixed 100ft, 3 1.7.1. Marble Gully
More Nuts Less Bolts Trad 90ft 1.7.1. Marble Gully
5.10 I-5 Mixed 1 1.4.1. East Face
Maiden Voyage Mixed 1 1.4.1. East Face
The Consolation Prize Trad 1.4.1. East Face
Fetal Gesture Trad 1.4.2. West Face
Northeast Ridge Trad 1.4.3. North Face
** Dirty Bus Driver Trad 100ft 1.7.1. Marble Gully
5.10 A3+ South Face Direct Aid 1.7.2. South Face
5.10d ** Mixed Nuts Mixed 90ft, 3 1.2.1. The Grotto
** The Seeker Trad 100ft 1.2.1. The Grotto
*** East Face Mixed 1100ft, 8 1.4.1. East Face
** Golden Flow Mixed 150ft, 2 1.4.1. East Face
*** Solar Wind Mixed 770ft, 4 1.6. Mt. Hubris
5.10+ * Traverse on the Horizon Mixed 100ft, 3 1.7.1. Marble Gully
South Face Dike Mixed 600ft, 4 1.7.2. South Face
5.10+ III * West Buttress Mixed 500ft, 3 1.7.2. South Face
5.10+ IV Hoyt Wall Trad 1.7.2. South Face
5.11a *** Aliens Are My Friends Mixed 90ft, 5 1.2.1. The Grotto
** Gland Entry Mixed 80ft, 3 1.2.1. The Grotto
** Casino Mixed 8 1.3.1. East Face
** Lunar Flow Mixed 4 1.4.1. East Face
*** Summer Breeze Sport 90ft, 5 1.7.1. Marble Gully
** Clean Up Crew Mixed Project 1 1.7.2. South Face
* East Buttress Mixed 390ft, 7 1.7.2. South Face
5.11b *** Breaking The Law Mixed 90ft, 3 1.2.1. The Grotto
** Illegal Alien Mixed 90ft, 3 1.2.1. The Grotto
*** Jugs on the Horizon Mixed 330ft, 4 1.7.1. Marble Gully
*** Kali Crack Trad 1.7.1. Marble Gully
** License to Love Mixed 90ft, 2 1.7.1. Marble Gully
*** Beckoning Mixed Project 250ft, 5 1.7.2. South Face
** The Tree Route Mixed 200ft, 5 1.7.2. South Face
** Burly Girl Trad 90ft 1.7.3. West Face
*** Tagged Mixed 100ft, 6 1.7.3. West Face
5.11c * Snag Mixed 4 1.1.5. Pincushion Wall
** Following Spirit Mixed 800ft, 14 1.4.1. East Face
** Angry Lion Mixed 110ft, 1 1.7.1. Marble Gully
* Feel the Love Mixed 90ft, 2 1.7.1. Marble Gully
*** Knot The End Mixed 110ft, 2 1.7.1. Marble Gully
*** Gold Standard Sport 95ft, 8 1.7.2. South Face
** Dagger Dihedral Mixed 90ft, 2 1.7.3. West Face
5.11 *** Bhakti Path Mixed 110ft, 5 1.7.1. Marble Gully
5.11d *** Hanuman Sport 80ft, 8 1.2.1. The Grotto
*** Meclazine Dream Mixed 120ft, 4 1.2.1. The Grotto
5.11+ Left Route Top rope 80ft 1.1.6. Bulldog Rock
Temporary Setback Trad 1.4.1. East Face
5.12a *** Stellar Mixed 100ft, 3 1.2.1. The Grotto
Brothel Trad 1.4.1. East Face
** Year of the Dragon Mixed 80ft, 4 1.4.1. East Face
** Get Up Stand Up Mixed 100ft, 3 1.7.1. Marble Gully
* The Dreamer Mixed Project 8 1.7.2. South Face
* Naga-Asana Sport 80ft, 6 1.7.3. West Face
5.12b ** Fight For Your Right Mixed 250ft, 5 1.7.1. Marble Gully
* More Bolts Less Nuts Mixed 80ft, 5 1.7.1. Marble Gully
Organic Mechanic Mixed 80ft, 4 1.7.1. Marble Gully
5.12c *** Castle Corner Trad 1.4.1. East Face
5.12 *** Don't Give Up the Fight Mixed 110ft, 8 1.7.1. Marble Gully
5.12d *** Apnea Mixed 110ft, 5 1.2.1. The Grotto
Marbelous Trad 110ft 1.7.1. Marble Gully
5.13a *** Marble Monkey Trad 100ft 1.7.1. Marble Gully
5.13b *** The Flying Monkey Mixed 120ft, 3 1.7.1. Marble Gully
? Gangela Trad Project 1.7.3. West Face