A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

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Table of contents

1. Castle Crags State Park 70 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Unknown, Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: -122.339433, 41.184085

Description:

Climbing at Castle Crags can be hugely rewarding but also dangerous due to the remoteness, loose rock, complicated approaches, and even more complicated descents. Bring a guide book. Grover Shipman's Mt Shasta Area Rock Climbing (ISBN 0988827204) and State Of Jefferson Rock Climber's Guide (shastabasecamp.com) are currently the most comprehensive and up-to-date.

1.1. Castle Dome Trail Area 24 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: -122.325795, 41.168204

1.1.1. Peach Brandy Wall 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: -122.326749, 41.167419

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Peach Brandy 5.8Unknown
2 * Peaches and Cream 5.10aUnknown

1.1.2. Super Crack Spire 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: -122.325458, 41.167534

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 South Arête

FFA: unknown

5.6Trad
2 ** Super Crack

Great jams and frequent stemming rests characterize this obvious crack and left-facing corner on the south side of the spire. Bolted top anchor is near the summit, far from the top of the crack. Build a gear anchor for top-roping. Descend by rappelling from the east side of the spire. Pro to 4".

FFA: Jerry Sublett?

5.9Trad Hard Landin' Brandon 1 years ago

Fantastic climbing with good handjams, a couple of interesting mantles, and good pro. A cold wind...

3 Regular Route

FFA: unknown

5.6Trad
4 Spreading the Stoke

FFA: Bill Repetto, Jeff Gorris, 1996

5.10cMixed 1
5 West Crack

FFA: John Bald

5.10aTrad
6 East Face Rappel

Descend from the spire by rappelling from the bolted anchors above the east face. (With these anchors, this face might also yield some short, easy climbing on top-rope.)

Top rope

1.1.3. Warmup Wall 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: -122.325999, 41.167863

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Warmup Route 5.9Unknown
2 Unknown 1 ?Unknown

1.1.4. Windsong Wall 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: -122.326500, 41.167937

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rollercoaster 5.10a RUnknown
2 ** One Hand Scratching 5.10cUnknown
3 Disappointment Dihedral 5.8Unknown

1.1.5. Pincushion Wall 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: -122.325177, 41.167917

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Lower Pincushion Wall

1 * First Aid

A bolt protects face climbing to the crack. A few good hand jams lead up to the 2 bolt top anchor with chains.

FFA: unknown

5.10aMixed 1 Hard Landin' Brandon 11 months ago

Good fun!

2 * Mild Steel
  1. 140ft (5.10b) Ascend the crack, then clip bolts up the face to the bolted anchor shared with Whisper. Double rope rappel, or ...

  2. 40ft (5.8/5.9) ... continue up the obvious crack. Walk off down the trail back to Newspaper Ledge.

FFA: Stan Miller, Byron Cross, 1991

5.10bMixed 180ft, 3
3 Whisper

Cracks and flakes lead up to a bolted anchor shared with Mild Steel.

FFA: unknown

5.8Trad

Upper Pincushion Wall

4 * Psycho

FFA: Byron Cross, Roosevelt Watson, 1981

5.9Mixed 5
5 * Snag
  1. (5.9) Lead up the crack to the overhang, and set up a belay above the overhang.

  2. (5.11c) Traverse left. The first bolt is up and right. Follow the bolts to the top.

FFA: Travis Klawin

FA: Byron Cross, Roosevelt Watson, 1981

5.11cMixed 4
6 The Flakes

FFA: unknown

5.8Trad
7 Inside Out

FFA: unknown

5.8Trad

1.1.6. Bulldog Rock 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: -122.324740, 41.168325

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Left Route 5.11+Top rope 80ft
2 ** Bulldog Direct / The Bolt Route

Careful footwork and technical face climbing leads straight up the line of bolts. Stick to the newer hardware, avoiding the (obviously) suspect bolt hanger as well as the (obviously) suspect chain top anchor.

FFA: unknown

5.10cSport 80ft, 9 Hard Landin' Brandon 1 years ago

Demands some interesting footwork and careful thinking. Good fun! Homemade hangers?

3 Flake n' Shake

Start right of Bulldog Direct and climb up to the hanging flake. Continue up the flakes, staying right of the bolts.

5.10bTop rope 80ft
4 ** The Peanut

Starts to the right of Bulldog Direct. Ascend the huecos and pockets, then follow the right leaning crack up to the crux at the piton. Continue up, then left back to the Bulldog Direct anchor. Pro to 2.5".

FFA: unknown

5.10bTrad 70ft

1.1.7. Snag Spire 0 routes in Sector

1.1.8. Saddle Spire 0 routes in Sector

1.2. Six Toe Rock 16 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: -122.327019, 41.169695

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Easy Street 5.6Unknown
2 * Easy On 5.7Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 ** Six Toe Crack
  1. 100ft (5.8)

  2. 100ft (5.8)

  3. 100ft (5.6) Rappel the route. Pro to 4.5" with widest pro at the offwidth crux.

5.8Trad 300ft Hard Landin' Brandon 11 months ago

"I found Jesus!" Climbed with Jadian. Led P2 & P3. Fantastic route. Good jams, got in some big he...

4 ** Chocksucker 5.9Unknown
5 * Purple Heart 5.8Unknown

1.2.1. The Grotto 11 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: -122.327149, 41.169729

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Killer Tofu

PG/R gear. Climb about 30' up easy 5th class dihedral, on left side of large roof, then traverse left and up face placing gear in flakes as you go, about 50' up, face thins out and you make delicate moves past 2 bolts, 10a 'crux', to gain a right facing dihedral, layback up to the top of the dihedral and reach left to a large detached flake with a spike of rock on top which can be slung with a long runner. follow cracks straight up another 40' to chain anchor. 120' can get down to easy terrain with a 60m rope

FFA: Ian Katz

5.10aMixed 120ft, 2
2 Meclazine Dream

Start on Apnea after initial bouldery start climb up layback crack about 10' then traverse right to a bolt on thin face moves 11-, continue right a bit then straight up to another bolt, pass bolt 'crux' 11b/c place #4 BD stopper or equivalent from a dicey stance traverse back left a couple of moves then up for about 10'-15' of solid 5.10r until you gain a layback flake and pro, continue to a roof with a bolt turn roof 5.10- and traverse back into the 5.10 finish of apnea.

FFA: Ian Katz

5.11d RTrad 120ft ian katz 11 years ago

yikes!

3 Apnea

"Ultra Classic", start just left of large roof. Bouldery start at a bolt to sustained thin crack/seam with good but sporty pro. Turn a small roof and climb face on thin but positive edges to a larger roof, Turn roof 'crux' and continue up steep sporty cracks to chain anchor, 110'.

FFA: Ian Katz, 2002

5.12dTrad 110ft ian katz 11 years ago

Great climb, willtests a wide variety of your skills

4 Aliens are My Freinds

Another Classic, start left of apnea about 40' up on a ledge just left of flakey right facing dihedral. From ledge do a mantle 10a move on perfect marble like rock to gain a bolt then up a rounded arete to a layback crack throw in some bomber gear and layback up a couple of moves then make a face move back right and climb up to a roof. power thru roof 11a 'crux' then up thin face to another cruxy move 10d to chain anchor.

FFA: Ian Katz

5.11aTrad 90ft ian katz 11 years ago

perfect!

5 ** Mixed Nuts

Same start as Aliens are my Freinds, from top of crack head left and up to split crack in roof place gear and bust over roof 10d 'crux' then traverse right and finish up on Aliens are my Freinds.

FFA: Ian Katz

5.11aTrad 90ft
6 ** Illegal Alien

left of Aliens are my Freinds about 15' climb up thin cracks with tricky gear then clip a bolt head up and left to a crack place some gear and make thin moves left to another bolt. Bust straight up and over powerful roof 'crux' then up more thin moves and tricky gear, head rigt to Aliens are my Freinds' anchor. Beware of loose blocks near anchor.

FFA: Ian Katz

5.11bTrad 90ft
7 Hanuman

Classic!!! one of the few sport climbs at the Crags. Bring a sling for a horn up high.

FFA: Ian Katz, 2006

5.11dTrad 90ft ian katz 11 years ago

Amazing!

8 ** The Seeker

On east face of the Grotto behind and a little up from Apnea. Climb up steep clean right facing crack, place a large cam in a pocket and make powerful move over a roof 10d'crux' then head left and up on steep terrain with large hold and marginal gear. make a move up onto a ramp head up ramp until you can access a tree with slings around it to rappel and/or set up a top rope.

FFA: Ian Katz

5.10d RTrad 100ft ian katz 11 years ago

scary and steep

9 *** Breaking The Law

Climb up face past 3 bolts, slinging horns between bolts.

FFA: Styles Larsen, Steve Webber

5.11bMixed 90ft, 3
10 ** Gland Entry

FFA: Styles Larsen, Steve Webber

5.11aUnknown 80ft
11 Stellar

Climb overhanging splitter crack on arete, which is at the opening of the Grotto, for 40' then turn corner onto lower angle side and meader up face with tricky gear placements for another 60'.

FFA: Styles Larsen, Wilbur

5.12aTrad 100ft ian katz 11 years ago

Great Crags Testpiece!

1.3. The Mansion 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.1. East Face 1 route in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Casino 5.11aUnknown

1.4. Castle Dome 11 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: -122.326562, 41.174647

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Golden Flow 5.10d RUnknown 140ft ian katz 7 years ago

Great climb on beautiful golden rock!

2 Lunar Flow 5.11aUnknown 100ft
3 Castle Corner 5.12cUnknown 100ft ian katz 11 years ago

Stunning Corner, THIN!

4 Year of the Dragon 5.12a RUnknown 100ft ian katz 11 years ago

Great Climb!

1.4.1. East Face 4 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** East Face (The Dike Route) 5.10dUnknown ian katz 11 years ago

One of the best climbs I've ever done.

2 * The Good Book 5.10aUnknown
3 Unknown 1 5.10Unknown
4 Unknown 2 5.10Unknown

1.4.2. West Face 2 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * West Ridge 5.8Unknown
2 *** SW Scramble Class 4Unknown Vanessa Wills 8 years ago

fantastic day and views

Christopher Doig 9 years ago

fun, exposed class 4

1.4.3. North Face 1 route in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * North Face 5.10bUnknown

1.5. Root Creek 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Dike Hike 5.8Unknown
2 Dunsmuir Avenue 5.10cUnknown

1.6. Mt. Hubris 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: -122.334155, 41.174492

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Golden Opportunity 5.9Unknown
2 *** Cosmic Wall

Stay high on the saddle to follow faint trails through the manzanita from the Crags Trail towards the descent gully. Skirt left around the base of Mt Hubris until you reach the large tree at the base of the right-facing dihedral that marks the beginning of the route.

  1. 180ft (5.5) Follow the right-facing dihedral to its end at a chockstone and large tree (optional belay). Continue up the low angle face to belay from a smaller tree.

  2. 110ft (5.6) Continue up and right along a broken dike, passing a piton. When level with the ogre's eye, make an airy crux traverse right to the bolted anchor on the comfy ledge.

  3. 200ft (5.6) Reverse the traverse, then head up low angle run-out slabs to a left-facing dihedral. Pass a pair of bad bolts and continue up and left to a large ledge with a tree.

  4. 160ft (5.6) Large flakes lead up to a notch just below the final ridge line. Belay from gear.

  5. 140ft (5.4) Follow the ridge line to the bolted summit and soak up the exposure.

Descend the NE face with a 90ft rappel from chains, then an 80ft rappel from rings. Follow the 3rd class gully back down to meet the saddle approach trail in the manzanita.

Gear: 60m rope, standard rack to 3" plus long slings for horns and thread-throughs.

FFA: Michael Zanger, Chris Bonington, Andre Nowacki, 1979

5.6Trad 790ft matt christensne 8 years ago

second time

3 * Faceted Dike 5.10bUnknown
4 *** Solar Wind 5.10dUnknown
5 *** The Great Chimney

Without a picture I'm not sure, but the name Great Chimney rings a bell. This chimney is on the leftmost substantial peak of Castle Crags when viewed from the road on the south side, i.e. the South Face. We climbed this route in about 6 pitches, the 2nd or 3rd pitch being a 50m sqeeze chimney without protection which we thought to be 5.9. Above the chimney we went left a few metres and finished up a thin leftwards trending groove which was about 5.10b/20. To descend we dropped north into a canyon wnd followed it to the east and then the south to the road. This route appeared to have been attempted as there was some abseil tat low in the chimney and no signs above. We did some gardening/cleaning of the crux pitch on ascent. We named the route The Perfumed Garden After the blooming fragrant honeysuckle encountered in the canyon on our descent. Hope you like this.

FA: Calum Hudson, Trevor Jones

20Unknown 820ft

1.7. Beck's Marble Gully 11 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Organic Mechanic 5.12bUnknown 80ft ian katz 6 years ago

thin and technical

2 *** Lame Duck 5.8Unknown 80ft ian katz 6 years ago

fun a little loose on top

3 Knot The End 5.11cUnknown 110ft ian katz 6 years ago

awesome route, a pair required!

4 Impeach The President 5.10cUnknown 100ft ian katz 6 years ago

great climbing with exciting runouts

5 More Nuts Less Bolts 5.10bUnknown 100ft ian katz 6 years ago

fun intro to the Gully

6 Bush Doctor 5.10bUnknown 90ft ian katz 6 years ago

fun intro to the Gully

7 Summer Breeze 5.11bUnknown 100ft ian katz 6 years ago

great climb well protected

8 Jugs on the Horizen 5.11bUnknown 200ft ian katz 6 years ago

awesome steep climbing for 2 pitches techy gear

9 Marbelous

Awesome climbing on incredible rock, MARBELOUS!

FA: iaN k@z, 2007

5.13aUnknown 110ft ian katz 6 years ago

Best single pitch I've ever done, BOLD!!!

10 Get Up Stand Up 5.12aUnknown 100ft ian katz 6 years ago

Cool climb!

11 Fight For Your Right 5.11aUnknown 100ft ian katz 6 years ago

Cool climb!

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
Class 4 *** SW Scramble Unknown 1.4.2. West Face
5.6 Regular Route Trad 1.1.2. Super Crack Spire
South Arête Trad 1.1.2. Super Crack Spire
* Easy Street Unknown 1.2. Six Toe Rock
*** Cosmic Wall Trad 790ft 1.6. Mt. Hubris
5.7 * Easy On Unknown 1.2. Six Toe Rock
5.8 Peach Brandy Unknown 1.1.1. Peach Brandy Wall
Disappointment Dihedral Unknown 1.1.4. Windsong Wall
Inside Out Trad 1.1.5. Pincushion Wall
The Flakes Trad 1.1.5. Pincushion Wall
Whisper Trad 1.1.5. Pincushion Wall
* Purple Heart Unknown 1.2. Six Toe Rock
** Six Toe Crack Trad 300ft 1.2. Six Toe Rock
* West Ridge Unknown 1.4.2. West Face
** Dike Hike Unknown 1.5. Root Creek
*** Lame Duck Unknown 80ft 1.7. Beck's Marble Gully
5.9 ** Super Crack Trad 1.1.2. Super Crack Spire
Warmup Route Unknown 1.1.3. Warmup Wall
* Psycho Mixed 5 1.1.5. Pincushion Wall
** Chocksucker Unknown 1.2. Six Toe Rock
* Golden Opportunity Unknown 1.6. Mt. Hubris
5.10a * Peaches and Cream Unknown 1.1.1. Peach Brandy Wall
West Crack Trad 1.1.2. Super Crack Spire
Rollercoaster Unknown 1.1.4. Windsong Wall
* First Aid Mixed 1 1.1.5. Pincushion Wall
*** Killer Tofu Mixed 120ft, 2 1.2.1. The Grotto
* The Good Book Unknown 1.4.1. East Face
5.10b * Mild Steel Mixed 180ft, 3 1.1.5. Pincushion Wall
Flake n' Shake Top rope 80ft 1.1.6. Bulldog Rock
** The Peanut Trad 70ft 1.1.6. Bulldog Rock
* North Face Unknown 1.4.3. North Face
* Faceted Dike Unknown 1.6. Mt. Hubris
Bush Doctor Unknown 90ft 1.7. Beck's Marble Gully
More Nuts Less Bolts Unknown 100ft 1.7. Beck's Marble Gully
5.10c Spreading the Stoke Mixed 1 1.1.2. Super Crack Spire
** One Hand Scratching Unknown 1.1.4. Windsong Wall
** Bulldog Direct Sport 80ft, 9 1.1.6. Bulldog Rock
Dunsmuir Avenue Unknown 1.5. Root Creek
Impeach The President Unknown 100ft 1.7. Beck's Marble Gully
5.10 Unknown 1 Unknown 1.4.1. East Face
Unknown 2 Unknown 1.4.1. East Face
20 *** The Great Chimney Unknown 820ft 1.6. Mt. Hubris
5.10d ** The Seeker Trad 100ft 1.2.1. The Grotto
Golden Flow Unknown 140ft 1.4. Castle Dome
*** East Face (The Dike Route) Unknown 1.4.1. East Face
*** Solar Wind Unknown 1.6. Mt. Hubris
5.11a Aliens are My Freinds Trad 90ft 1.2.1. The Grotto
** Gland Entry Unknown 80ft 1.2.1. The Grotto
** Mixed Nuts Trad 90ft 1.2.1. The Grotto
** Casino Unknown 1.3.1. East Face
Lunar Flow Unknown 100ft 1.4. Castle Dome
Fight For Your Right Unknown 100ft 1.7. Beck's Marble Gully
5.11b *** Breaking The Law Mixed 90ft, 3 1.2.1. The Grotto
** Illegal Alien Trad 90ft 1.2.1. The Grotto
Jugs on the Horizen Unknown 200ft 1.7. Beck's Marble Gully
Summer Breeze Unknown 100ft 1.7. Beck's Marble Gully
5.11c * Snag Mixed 4 1.1.5. Pincushion Wall
Knot The End Unknown 110ft 1.7. Beck's Marble Gully
5.11d Hanuman Trad 90ft 1.2.1. The Grotto
Meclazine Dream Trad 120ft 1.2.1. The Grotto
5.11+ Left Route Top rope 80ft 1.1.6. Bulldog Rock
5.12a Stellar Trad 100ft 1.2.1. The Grotto
Year of the Dragon Unknown 100ft 1.4. Castle Dome
Get Up Stand Up Unknown 100ft 1.7. Beck's Marble Gully
5.12b Organic Mechanic Unknown 80ft 1.7. Beck's Marble Gully
5.12c Castle Corner Unknown 100ft 1.4. Castle Dome
5.12d Apnea Trad 110ft 1.2.1. The Grotto
5.13a Marbelous Unknown 110ft 1.7. Beck's Marble Gully
? East Face Rappel Top rope 1.1.2. Super Crack Spire
Unknown 1 Unknown 1.1.3. Warmup Wall