A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. The Magoos 30 routes in Area

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Boulder

Long/Lat: -122.095899, 37.228125

Description:

The most concentrated area of bouldering in Castle Rock State Park, with several classic problems and generally excellent landings.

1.1. Mr Magoo Boulder 14 routes in Area

Summary:
Description:

The first boulder in the Magoos, closest to Castle Rock. Offers awesome problems on all sides, including the mega classic moderate Mr Magoo. There are many more traverses / variants than described here.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Downclimb

Low angled ramp with dishes on the right side of the uphill face.

VB-Boulder 16ft
2 Unnamed 1

Head up the bulgy prow left of the downclimb, with the big chest height heuco. Harder & better if you eliminate the holds in the groove to the right.

V0Boulder 7ft
3 ** Magoo Face

The thin face in the middle of the uphill side of the boulder.

V2Boulder 10ft
4 * Roof Crack

The crack on the right side of the small cave on the uphill face of the boulder.

V0Boulder 10ft
5 *** Overhanging Lieback

Layback the rounded left arete above the small cave on the uphill side of the boulder. Holds to the left are off.

V3Boulder 10ft
6 Left Hand Only

Unclear what or where this is. It's possibly a variant up the shallow corner just left of Overhanging Layback.

V2Boulder
7 ** Unnamed 2

Up the shallow corner just left of Overhanging Lieback, using it as needed.

V1Boulder 10ft
8 Misc problems

There are a variety of move up problems on this end of the boulder, all of which go over the small ledge at half height.

V0Boulder 13ft
9 ** Unnamed 3

Start in the groove with the incut slot hold, then slap left along the rail and either directly up the prow (V2) or continue moving left into the top of Mr Magoo (V1).

V2Boulder 16ft
10 *** Mr. Magoo

Mega classic right of tree on downhill side of the boulder. Reachy stand start and follow the easiest line to the top. Crouch start is (height-dependent) V2.

V0Boulder 13ft
11 Mr Magoo LHS

Start on miniscule slopey crimps just right of the tree, then bust a move into Mr Magoo.

V9Boulder 13ft
12 ** Bates Problem

Left of the tree on the downhill side of the boulder. Stand start on small chest height crimps then up and left to top out. Stand start on higher, better hold is V1.

V5Boulder 10ft
13 ** Bates Eliminate

Same start as for Bates Problem, but move up and right before hitting the top of the boulder.

V7Boulder 10ft
14 *** Bates Eliminate SDS

Sit start Bates Eliminate.

V9Boulder 10ft

1.2. Mrs Magoo Boulder 8 routes in Area

Summary:
Description:

The left-most boulder, facing downhill from the Mr Magoo boulder. The easiest way off is to downclimb the tree between The Nose and The Swim.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Traverse

Start on the downhill end of the left side of the boulder, and traverse all the way right, past the tree, to finish on Mrs Magoo. Harder if you stay low.

V3Boulder
2 ** Mrs. Magoo

The line of heinous slopers left of The Groove.

V2Boulder 10ft
3 * The Groove

The obvious ripply groove. Deceptive!

V1Boulder 7ft
4 * The Nose

Sit start the very short rounded arete right of The Groove, and just left of the tree. Hilarious!

V1Boulder 5ft
5 *** The Swim

A technical mega classic! Start at the blindingly obvious spike just right of the tree, in the narrow alleyway, then straight up underneath the tree branch (which is off).

V3Boulder
6 * Roof Traverse

Start down in the cave right of The Swim, then compressed climbing up and left to the large flat heuco and a final groove.

V3Boulder
7 Kauk Roof

Start as for the Roof Traverse, but head straight out the blank roof.

V7Boulder
8 Unnamed

No clue where this is...

V4Boulder

1.3. Slab Boulder 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Description:

The small slabby boulder in between the Mrs Magoo Boulder and The Dog Dish Boulder.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** The Slab

The obvious steep slab facing the Mr Magoo boulder. Start on the low rail to the left.

Several variants, including:

  • "Flying Kiwi" - take a running start and launch for the top (height dependent grade)
  • "No hands" - start in the corner and ascend the slab without using your hands (V2)
V0Boulder 10ft
2 Backside

There are 2 or 3 juggy easy problems on the backside of the boulder, with bad landings.

V0-Boulder 10ft

1.4. The Dog Dish Boulder 6 routes in Area

Summary:
Description:

The right-most boulder, facing downhill from the Mr Magoo Boulder.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Unnamed

The lovely rounded tortoise shell arete just right of the Slab Boulder.

V0Boulder 7ft
2 * Dog Dish

The obvious line of jugs in the middle of the wall. Heads up and right around the arete into highball territory above a mossy slab.

V0Boulder 10ft
3 * Dog Dish LHV

As for Dog Dish, but instead of stepping right, veer left and continue up the proud (highball) face.

V0Boulder 13ft
4 ** Dog Dish Traverse

Start at the downhill end of the right side of the boulder, and traverse up and left to finish up Dog Dish or Dog Dish LHV.

V1Boulder 26ft
5 Dog Dish Traverse (Low)

As for Dog Dish Traverse, but stay off the top of the boulder.

V5Boulder 26ft
6 ** Dog Dish Traverse Complete

As for Dog Dish Traverse (or the "Low" variant), but keep on traversing all the way up and left and mantle to finish on the easy slab.

V3Boulder 33ft

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
VB- Downclimb Boulder 16ft 1.1. Mr Magoo Boulder
V0- Backside Boulder 10ft 1.3. Slab Boulder
V0 Misc problems Boulder 13ft 1.1. Mr Magoo Boulder
*** Mr. Magoo Boulder 13ft 1.1. Mr Magoo Boulder
* Roof Crack Boulder 10ft 1.1. Mr Magoo Boulder
Unnamed 1 Boulder 7ft 1.1. Mr Magoo Boulder
** The Slab Boulder 10ft 1.3. Slab Boulder
* Dog Dish Boulder 10ft 1.4. The Dog Dish Boulder
* Dog Dish LHV Boulder 13ft 1.4. The Dog Dish Boulder
* Unnamed Boulder 7ft 1.4. The Dog Dish Boulder
V1 ** Unnamed 2 Boulder 10ft 1.1. Mr Magoo Boulder
* The Groove Boulder 7ft 1.2. Mrs Magoo Boulder
* The Nose Boulder 5ft 1.2. Mrs Magoo Boulder
** Dog Dish Traverse Boulder 26ft 1.4. The Dog Dish Boulder
V2 Left Hand Only Boulder 1.1. Mr Magoo Boulder
** Magoo Face Boulder 10ft 1.1. Mr Magoo Boulder
** Unnamed 3 Boulder 16ft 1.1. Mr Magoo Boulder
** Mrs. Magoo Boulder 10ft 1.2. Mrs Magoo Boulder
V3 *** Overhanging Lieback Boulder 10ft 1.1. Mr Magoo Boulder
* Roof Traverse Boulder 1.2. Mrs Magoo Boulder
*** The Swim Boulder 1.2. Mrs Magoo Boulder
** Traverse Boulder 1.2. Mrs Magoo Boulder
** Dog Dish Traverse Complete Boulder 33ft 1.4. The Dog Dish Boulder
V4 Unnamed Boulder 1.2. Mrs Magoo Boulder
V5 ** Bates Problem Boulder 10ft 1.1. Mr Magoo Boulder
Dog Dish Traverse (Low) Boulder 26ft 1.4. The Dog Dish Boulder
V7 ** Bates Eliminate Boulder 10ft 1.1. Mr Magoo Boulder
Kauk Roof Boulder 1.2. Mrs Magoo Boulder
V9 *** Bates Eliminate SDS Boulder 10ft 1.1. Mr Magoo Boulder
Mr Magoo LHS Boulder 13ft 1.1. Mr Magoo Boulder