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Description

The first boulder in the Magoos, closest to Castle Rock. Offers awesome problems on all sides, including the mega classic moderate Mr Magoo. There are many more traverses / variants than described here.

Routes

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Grade Route

Low angled ramp with dishes on the right side of the uphill face.

Head up the bulgy prow left of the downclimb, with the big chest height heuco. Harder & better if you eliminate the holds in the groove to the right.

The thin face in the middle of the uphill side of the boulder.

The crack on the right side of the small cave on the uphill face of the boulder.

Layback the rounded left arete above the small cave on the uphill side of the boulder. Holds to the left are off.

Unclear what or where this is. It's possibly a variant up the shallow corner just left of Overhanging Layback.

Up the shallow corner just left of Overhanging Lieback, using it as needed.

There are a variety of move up problems on this end of the boulder, all of which go over the small ledge at half height.

Start in the groove with the incut slot hold, then slap left along the rail and either directly up the prow (V2) or continue moving left into the top of Mr Magoo (V1).

Mega classic right of tree on downhill side of the boulder. Reachy stand start and follow the easiest line to the top. Crouch start is (height-dependent) V2.

Start on miniscule slopey crimps just right of the tree, then bust a move into Mr Magoo.

Left of the tree on the downhill side of the boulder. Stand start on small chest height crimps then up and left to top out. Stand start on higher, better hold is V1.

Same start as for Bates Problem, but move up and right before hitting the top of the boulder.

Sit start Bates Eliminate.

Activity

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