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The first boulder in the Magoos, closest to Castle Rock. Offers awesome problems on all sides, including the mega classic moderate Mr Magoo. There are many more traverses / variants than described here.


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Grade Route
VB- Downclimb Boulder 16ft

Low angled ramp with dishes on the right side of the uphill face.

V0 Unnamed 1 Boulder 7ft

Head up the bulgy prow left of the downclimb, with the big chest height heuco. Harder & better if you eliminate the holds in the groove to the right.

V2 * Magoo Face Boulder 10ft

The thin face in the middle of the uphill side of the boulder.

V0 * Roof Crack Boulder 10ft

The crack on the right side of the small cave on the uphill face of the boulder.

V3 *** Overhanging Lieback Boulder 10ft

Layback the rounded left arete above the small cave on the uphill side of the boulder. Holds to the left are off.

V2 Left Hand Only Boulder

Unclear what or where this is. It's possibly a variant up the shallow corner just left of Overhanging Layback.

V1 ** Unnamed 2 Boulder 10ft

Up the shallow corner just left of Overhanging Lieback, using it as needed.

V0 Misc problems Boulder 13ft

There are a variety of move up problems on this end of the boulder, all of which go over the small ledge at half height.

V2 ** Unnamed 3 Boulder 16ft

Start in the groove with the incut slot hold, then slap left along the rail and either directly up the prow (V2) or continue moving left into the top of Mr Magoo (V1).

V0 ** Mr. Magoo Boulder 13ft

Mega classic right of tree on downhill side of the boulder. Reachy stand start and follow the easiest line to the top. Crouch start is (height-dependent) V2.

V9 Mr Magoo LHS Boulder 13ft

Start on miniscule slopey crimps just right of the tree, then bust a move into Mr Magoo.

V5 ** Bates Problem Boulder 10ft

Left of the tree on the downhill side of the boulder. Stand start on small chest height crimps then up and left to top out. Stand start on higher, better hold is V1.

V7 ** Bates Eliminate Boulder 10ft

Same start as for Bates Problem, but move up and right before hitting the top of the boulder.

V9 *** Bates Eliminate SDS Boulder 10ft

Sit start Bates Eliminate.


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