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Approach

From the Lower Town Wall parking lot, cross the railroad tracks and turn right. Walk along the tracks for a minute or so to a vehicle access road on the left. Continue along the road to a clearing with a large concrete-sealed tunnel.

Routes

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Grade Route

This is how most people climb these two routes, which share all anchors:

[G.M. p1]
climb from a two bolt anchor above a slab, trending slightly right to a huge ledge. Walk the ledge to the left and scramble up to the anchor. (5.8+)
[G.M. p2]
Scramble up to an overhang formed by a pair of huge flakes. Overcome the roof to gain a wide crack. This is a short pitch that can be easily combined with p1 for a great time. (5.9)
[HotC p3]
Step right into a widening splitter, leading to a ledge (5.9 to here, where you can bail to the anchors at the right). Continue up the slightly overhanging hand crack, step left a bit, and find anchors on a ledge; feels a bit like Breakfast of Champions. (5.10a)

Rappel p3 --> p1--> ground.

The first two pitches of this route are most commonly combined with p3 of Heart of the Country, with which it shares all three anchors.

p1: From a two-bolt anchor perched above a slab to the right of the tunnel, climb a short low-angle slab to gain a ledge. Walk left to find a two-bolt anchor. (5.8)

p2: Pull a small roof formed by giant flakes to find a short crack leading to another bolted anchor. (5.9)

p3: Try to ignore the spectacular splitter to the right and instead go left up wide cracks to the final anchor. (5.9)

Rappel the route.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Chris Kalman, Matty Van Biene

Date: 2017

ISBN: 9781892540676

Sharp End Publishing:
The Index Town Walls guidebook is a comprehensive collection of the crown-jewel of Washington climbing: the granite crags of Skykomish Valley that get high praise for their quality and variety.
  • Includes everything from 800-foot trad odysseys to modern clip-ups and Grade IV aid climbs
  • Covers the majority of historic routes—some of which have been reclaimed by the forest—and recent developments

Author(s): Jeff Smoot

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9781493056439

FalconGuides:
From off-trail summit hikes and scrambles to multi-pitch alpine rock and high volcano climbs, Climbing Washington's Mountains includes detailed, easy-to-follow directions for 100 classic routes.
  • Fully revised and updated, this book is an accurate, user-friendly guide with easy-to-follow route descriptions and drawings
  • Details 100 classic routes, including Washington's most visible, historically significant and interesting mountains with summits over 5,000 ft.
  • Blending all types of climbing at all levels of difficulty, this guide is suitable for beginning scramblers, alpine rock climbers and more experienced climbers

Author(s): Jim Nelson, Tom Sjolseth and David Whitelaw

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9781680510461

Mountaineers Books:
Select Routes in Washington State. Featuring more than 100 climbing routes across more than 70 peaks, Classic Cascade Climbs compiles renowned alpine routes, challenging trad climbs, and a handful of sport, ice and crag options.
  • To determine if it was a classic, each route was judged on the following criteria: overall quality, popularity, accessibility, style and historical importance
  • Climbing beta includes peak and prominence elevations and type of rock, as well as grade, approach, route and descent descriptions
  • Detailed photo-based route overlays and topo maps help you plan your approach
  • Includes pitch-by-pitch details, estimated time, recommended equipment, selected history (including first ascents), required permits and special considerations

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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