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Grippy rock. Seldom visited. Still has potential for some expansion.
There are currently about a half-dozen established routes on this crag, but there is probably room for expansion.
The crag tends to have a lot of loose sand and grit covering it, and therefore climbing up some of slabs without rope should be cautioned. There are a lot of loose rocks at the top of the cliff, so those at the bottom should stay clear and helmets might be a good idea.
I only found one set of anchors at the top and they were 3 thin, rusty hangers affixed with 1/4" pins, and they are somewhat poorly placed (IMHO). This anchor is above Burnt Granola, and there are at least 3 more old, thin, rusty hangers on the face.
For those reading the description in the 'Domelands' guidebook, there are no easy top rope routes without utilizing very rough, gritty rocks as natural anchors.
My climbing partner and I hope to return and establish some better anchor/belay stations.
BLM land means there are no access issues.
This crag sits up on the hill as you turn onto Chimney Peak Rd. by the first turn in the road. It takes about 5 minute to approach the base of the hill, and another 15-25 min to reach the base of the cliff.
There are no open trips for this crag
Learn about trips.