Routes in Redgarden Wall

1. 130ft (5.10a) Up the large crack in the corner.

2. 70ft (5.10c) Up and over flakes to the top and a rappel tree.

Extension of 'Darkness 'Til Dawn'

Starts with easy moves on Sayat Nova to a rest before you reach the head wall with thin, technical climbing. The crux is close to the anchor.

Approach: Follow signs for Regarden wall. The route starts at a ledge with a tree about 15ft higher than the trail, just before the start of Rewritten.

P1: Starts on the short dihedral with a pin about 20ft up, then traverse left and pull a roof. This is a bit intimidating. Traverse back rigth and belay at a tree on a ledge.

P2: Step left and up into the dihedral and then onto the face. Belay on a ledge with a big tree a bit higher.

P3: Climb under the tree and left on cracks and a corner past a ledge with loose rocks, go over the bulge and climb to a big ledge with a broken band that takes some big pro and nuts.

P4: Traverse right about 15 ft and up a dihedral, then arrive at the left side of a huge overhang with a horizontal crack. Traverse right using some pins and the crack for pro (watch for rope drag after the roof!). Then up a thin dihedral to a slanted ledge with a big loose rock. Do not use this rock for pro! It will come down! Use a crack on the floor and a pin on the left wall.

P5: Up the thin crack which you can protect with a #.3. Fun! Then step right around the corner into a wall with a bunch of pins. Either bring lots of slings or skip some of the pins. The moves are delicate here but not hard. After this section you will see a series of bolts that go straight up, this is a direct finish that goes at 5.10. The standard route goes diagonally left on a runout slab, then unto a corner with a pin. You can belay here with some crartive placements a bit higher or continue up to the summit (not recommended, lots of drag).

P6: Up the beautiful exposed arete to the summit of Tower I.

Descent: From the summit traverse right (facing the opposite way of the climb) down to a tree with a sling. Rappel from here to a trail. From there follow the trail down to to a big ledge with big trees that’s the top of Ruper. From there go up a bit through a V notch, then down to a gully with big boulders, Continue down this gully for about 100ft to the end and look for rap rings on the wall on the left. Rap down with 60m rope (barely makes it) to the top of the Upper Ramp. Up the small wall in front to a tree and then down over the ridge to a rap station. 2 single 60m rope raps to the bottom. Then follow the trail left back to the base.