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Enchanted Rock

  • Grades: US
  • Approach time: 10-30 minutes
  • Photos: 23
  • Ascents: 838
  • Aka: E-Rock

Summary

Enchanted Rock is the second largest monolith in the US, and the third largest in the world. The rock is a coarse, pink granite, offering the best trad climbing in central Texas.

Description

E-Rock has a mixture of trad crack climbing, spicy sport routes on slab and thin face climbing, as well as plenty of bouldering. The granite crystals are larger than what you might find at Yosemite or Squamish. It can be hard on the skin, so bring extra tape and a Texas sized jar of 'harden up!'.

E-Rock was one of the first crags developed in Texas and is known for a more old-school approach to grading and sport bolting. You may find the first bolt on some slab spot routes too high to stick-clip. Many of the first sport ascents were developed in the ground-up style, with all bolts drilled on lead.

Access issues

Enchanted Rock is a Texas State Park.

Approach

Drive in and park. Hike in on established and generally signed. In many parts, the climbing areas almost represent large boulder fields on a bed of sloping granite. Navigation is by land and rock features in some areas.

Where to stay

You can camp at the park, or there is accommodation available in nearby Fredericksburg.

Ethic

No bolting is allowed without approval by the Central Texas Climbing Commitee and Texas Wildlife and Parks Department.

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