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Summary

Small climbing area with a beautiful creek running through it. Most of the climbs here are short, under 50 feet, but there are some good moderates.

Approach

From Mulberry/I40(20 min-12.6mile) Take the Mulberry exit (#24) off of I-40 and follow 215 North for about 10 miles. You'll reach the town of Fern. 0.7 miles to an unmarked dirt road on the right (its a pretty well traveled road) Follow this 1.6 miles and hang a right followed by an immediate right at the fork in the road. The parking Area is .3 miles after that. Be careful if you don't have a 4x4 after rains because it can get pretty muddy and there's a few big puddles.

There are two approaches the P.K. Boulder approach and the Standard approach.

PK Boulder: Approach leads you to the PK boulder, Fern North, Small Wall boulder Cowboy Boulder, and Factual Boulder. From the parking area head west a short ways up the trail to the cliff top a short scramble down leads around the north side of the PK Boulder.

Standard approach: Use this to get to the Lesbian Stronghold Boulder, Reservation Wall, Nasty Wall, Bleeder Boulder and Psychadelic Wall. From the parking area hike west on the trail to the cliff top follow the trail parallel to the bluff-line east for 2-3 minutes where you'll go right through a narrow corridor that puts you at the bottom of the Bleeder Boulder.

Where to stay

There are a few free and undeveloped campsites located next to the parking area. If this area is full, there is more camping off the main dirt road, approximately 100 yards, from where you turn into the parking area. There are no amenities. White Rock camping area offers campsites, restrooms, and hot showers. It is located east on HWY 215 from turn off to main dirt road to climbing area.

Ethic

No smoking or music. Do not block the drive lane in the parking area.

Routes

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Grade Route

Super short climb. Lots of horizontal cracks.

FA: T J Griffin

FA: T J Griffin

Activity

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