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Description

This is the cliff that is visible right above the main parking area, offering some very sustained climbing, and is home to the first sport routes at Franklin.

Access issues inherited from Franklin Gorge

All known routes at Franklin are located on PRIVATE LAND, and therefor, access should not be taken for granted. Keeping a low profile is of utmost importance. The landowner & his family hunt on the plateau above the routes, so please apprise yourself of the State & Local hunting seasons, and act accordingly.

Approach

Simply walk up the stone steps..."Two Blind Mice" is at the top of the steps, with the classic "Squeal Like A Pig" on your right, and more routes to the left.

Ethic inherited from Franklin Gorge

Dogs are not welcome (PRIVATE LAND), Leave No Trace, stay on trails, you-damage-trail-you-fix-it-NOW, no trundling onto road, no Quick-Links, no tick marks, clean up your chalk, clean up your tape, no chipping, no theft, no defacement, use camouflaged hardware, inspect & replace worn carabiners, respect red tags, respect hunters & hunting seasons, no top-roping through fixed gear, etc., etc.

Routes

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Grade Route
1

Trad, corner, a set of cold shut anchors has recently been added.

FA: Unknown

2
5.11b Limestoned Sport 62ft

First sport route to be established at Franklin. 6 bolts, ring anchors.

FA: John Burcham

3
5.10b * Wild Wild West Sport 62ft

This route links the first 3 bolts on "Route of All Evil", to the last bolt on "Limestoned". 6 bolts, plus ring anchors. A grade of 5.10- is more accurate.

FA: Michael Fisher

4
5.10d Route of All Evil Sport 7

7 bolts, shuts. 5.9 if you use flex flake, and bypass the upper arete & 7th bolt.

FA: Michael Fisher

5
5.9 * Lunar Debris Sport 50ft, 4

4 bolts, shuts.

FA: George Powell

6
5.10a Odysseus Sport 52ft, 5

To the right of Lunar Debris. 5 bolts, ring anchors.

FA: Mike Gray, 2007

7
5.10c Two Blind Mice Sport 62ft, 6

6 bolts, ring anchors. High quality, and very sustained.

FA: Michael Fisher, 2007

8
5.10a Squeal Like A Pig Sport 56ft, 7

7 bolts, finishing at a set of chains. This is the rightmost route at the Parking Area Wall. Look for the graffiti. 1st bolt & hanger were recently replaced.

FFA: John Burcham