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Description

Located on private land, mostly sport routes, 2-8 bolts, ring anchors, cold shuts, or chain top anchors.

Access issues inherited from Franklin Gorge

All known routes at Franklin are located on PRIVATE LAND, and therefor, access should not be taken for granted. Keeping a low profile is of utmost importance. The landowner & his family hunt on the plateau above the routes, so please apprise yourself of the State & Local hunting seasons, and act accordingly.

Approach

From the parking area, go up the stone steps, go right (upriver), follow the trail, less than 5 minutes.

Ethic inherited from Franklin Gorge

Dogs are not welcome (PRIVATE LAND), Leave No Trace, stay on trails, you-damage-trail-you-fix-it-NOW, no trundling onto road, no Quick-Links, no tick marks, clean up your chalk, clean up your tape, no chipping, no theft, no defacement, use camouflaged hardware, inspect & replace worn carabiners, respect red tags, respect hunters & hunting seasons, no top-roping through fixed gear, etc., etc.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.9 Raised by Sasquatch Sport 30ft, 2

A testy, two bolt route, with FIXE Super Shuts at top.

2
5.6 Sticks & Stones Sport 59ft, 6

To the right of Raised by Sasquatch. 6 bolts, finishing at a set of chains. Don't miss the 4th bolt, although it is somewhat hidden, it is directly above the 3rd. A decent moderate route.

FFA: M. Fisher & M. Gray, 2008

3
5.7 Days Gone By Trad

A trad route, in the corner to the immediate left of Barney Rubble.

FA: George Powell

4
5.11b Barney Rubble Sport 46ft, 5

5 bolts, then traverse right to the anchors of Potential Energy.

5
5.10b ** Potential Energy Sport 50ft, 5

On the steep arete, passing 5 bolts, and finishing at a set of ring anchors. An excellent route. Some parties prefer to clip the 1st bolt on "Barney Rubble", to provide added safety reaching the 1st bolt.

6
5.12b Shizzel Sport 55ft, 8

This route is located in between Potential Energy and Dynosaurus.

FFA: UNKNOWN

7
5.12a ** Dynosaurus Sport 58ft, 7

FFA: Eddie Begoon

8
5.11d Roofasaurus Sport 62ft, 6

Another excellent contribution by D. Hensley, bolted on lead.

FFA: Darrel Hensley

FA: Darrel Hensley

9
5.7 Hoss Corner Trad

Traditional route, rappel from tree on ledge.

FA: unknown

10
5.11a The Grey Matter Unknown

This was an open project, to the right of Roofasaurus, with a proposed grade of 5.11a. The bolts have been installed, and the first ascent was done by Brian D. aka "The Tall Man". No further information is available at this time.

FA: Brian D., 2008

11
5.10d Hello Unknown

5 bolts, finish at anchors of Lost Planet Airmen. Original topo suggested use of medium cams. A #1 Camalot should be sufficient.

FA: Eddie Begoon

12
5.11c Lost Planet Airmen Unknown

6 bolts, ring anchors.

FA: Eddie Begoon

13
5.10a * Burcham's Beach Unknown

6 bolts, finishing at a set of ring anchors. A bit of a sandbag. Originally rated 5.10a, but current consensus suggests that heavy traffic has polished and/or broken some holds, leaving this route a letter grade or so harder.

FA: Howard Clark

14
5.9 * Aloha Sport 49ft, 6

Summer 2009: bolt hangers & top anchors replaced.

FA: Michael Gray

15
5.10c Break the Chain Sport 59ft, 8

8 bolts, finishing at a set of ring anchors. This route is described by many as an atypical Franklin route, offering a little something different in terms of holds. A very fine route, with cryptic & committing movements.

FFA: Mike Artz ?

16
5.10a route deleted Unknown

All fixed anchors have been removed from this route, due to the unsafe condition of the original hardware (non-welded 3/8" cold shuts as bolt hangers, lap-links, etc.), and a few close calls. Name of this route is "Deeper Shade of Soul".

FA: Mike Artz

17
5.10c ** Moment Of Clarity Sport 66ft, 6

6 bolts, finishing at a set of anchor chains w/ carabiners. Begin by scrambling onto the ledge above the trail, the 1st bolt can be reached from there.

FFA: Michael Fisher, 2006

18
5.10c Eddie's 10c Roof Sport 5

From the trail, scramble up to a book. Climb the book, passing two bolts, and clipping a third at the lip of the roof above. Pull the roof on good holds, and continue up the head wall passing two more bolts, finishing at a set of welded cold shuts. Another great route, and one of the driest at the crag.

FFA: Eddie Begoon

19
5.9 X unknown #1 Unknown 82ft, 5

Quite a ways up to the first bolt, with groundfall potential of 50 feet or more. Possibly a mixed route...some bolts, leading to a set of Metolius rap hangers at the top. Little else is known about this route.

FA: unknown

20
5.10a Franklinstein Sport 62ft, 7

7 bolts, cold shut anchors. Climb the face past two bolts, to reach a very large ledge system. Walk left across the ledge, passing a good bit of loose rock, to reach a bolt at the lip of an overhang. Excellent 5.9ish climbing passes 4 more bolts and ends at a set of cold shuts.

FFA: Michael Gray