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Description

Located on private land, this is the upper level at Franklin, with a good selection of sport climbs, mostly in the 5.10 range.

Access issues inherited from Franklin Gorge

All known routes at Franklin are located on PRIVATE LAND, and therefor, access should not be taken for granted. Keeping a low profile is of utmost importance. The landowner & his family hunt on the plateau above the routes, so please apprise yourself of the State & Local hunting seasons, and act accordingly.

Approach

5-10 minutes

Ethic inherited from Franklin Gorge

Dogs are not welcome (PRIVATE LAND), Leave No Trace, stay on trails, you-damage-trail-you-fix-it-NOW, no trundling onto road, no Quick-Links, no tick marks, clean up your chalk, clean up your tape, no chipping, no theft, no defacement, use camouflaged hardware, inspect & replace worn carabiners, respect red tags, respect hunters & hunting seasons, no top-roping through fixed gear, etc., etc.

Routes

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Grade Route

Route decommissioned in March 2008, due to safety concerns (2nd bolt was falling out, others were "shimmed" with glue).

3 bolts, with a pair of rings at the top.

FA: Darrel Hensley

9 bolts, finishing at a set of chains.

FFA: George Powell

5 bolts, finishing at a set of ring anchors. An obscure route, situated on a ledge system above the trail.

FFA: Michael Fisher

Bolts were removed on September 6th 2008, as requested by the first ascent party. This route is named "No Stoppin' The Burn".

FA: Michael Gray

One of Franklin's best, but well "hidden" routes. 4 bolts, cold shut anchors at top.

FA: Eddie Begoon

A little run-out, til you get to the lip.

FA: Mike Artz

6 bolts, fishing at a set of ring anchors. UPDATE: New top anchor bolts were installed, Spring 2009

FFA: Michael Gray, 2006

5 bolts, Metolius rap hangers at top. Starting at the trail, climb short vertical face to a BIG ledge, passing one bolt before the mantel. Continue across the ledge, scrambling up low angled rock to the second bolt. Climb steepening rock, passing another bolt or two, gaining a small roof. Clip another bolt, pull the roof, climb a short headwall to reach the anchors.

FA: The Bum Guides

4 bolts, cold shut anchors. First bolt is very high up, on moderate terrain, but well out of stick-clip range...use your head.

FA: Michael Fisher, 2008

4 bolts, finishing at a set of welded cold shuts.

FFA: Tracy Begoon

4 bolts, plus ring anchors (recently added).

FA: Michael Fisher

3 bolts, now has ring anchors. A testy little route.

FFA: Eddie Begoon

It has been reported that, as of August 2010,the top anchors are missing on this route

FA: M. Fisher

4 bolts, plus ring anchors. A complete top anchor replacement, including bolts, was done on this route on May 3rd 2008. UPDATE: Bolts #3 & 4 were replaced, Spring 2009.

FFA: Mike Artz

5.11c, this is a left finish variation of Decompression Sickness, pulling through the big roof at the end. 9 bolts, chains at top. A very solid route, another testament to the strength of Mr. Begoon. A strong and rather tall young climber from NC once called this one of the "meatiest" routes at Franklin.

FA: Eddie Begoon

7 bolts + ring anchors. Begin just left of "Barnacle Bill", the run to bolt #2 is definitely a "No Fall Zone". Climb past bolts, tending left after the shake-out, then up to a small roof. Pull the roof and continue up to anchors.

FFA: George Powell

Start on Barnacle Bill, clipping the first 3 bolts, then go left to a good rest, and then through overhang. An excellent route.

FFA: John Burcham

9 bolts, ring anchors. All remaining cold shuts were replaced with standard hangers in 2008.

FA: Begoon/Clark

Starts on ledge, to the right of Barnacle Bill. 4 bolts, ring anchors at top.

FA: George Powell

Situated on the large but exposed ledge, climb the multi-teired overhangs, to a bolt in the last tier. Continue over the lip, and finish at a set of ring anchors. A nice, gymnastic route.

FFA: John Burcham?

To the right of Super Amazing Sea Monkeys, 4 bolts, uses anchors of Belly of The Whale.

FA: Darrel Hensley

Through the key hole, last bolted climb on the ledge section. Has been re-bolted and now has one additional bolt from what most guidebooks say.

FA: Michael Gray

This is a burly trad route, located about 15 yards to the left of Neptune. Climb moderate terrain to reach the big roof. Climb the slitter crack out the roof, and follow the crack up the short headwall. There is no fixed protection, save for a set of Metolius rap hangers at the top.

FFA: Sam Powell

All hangers removed in March 2008, due to safety concerns (aging & corroded bolts).

FA: Eric Anderson

Said to have been the original benchmark for 5.10a at Franklin. Left start is the original line (7 bolts, ring anchors). A right start (3 bolts) was added later.

A right start variation to Aqualung, 3 bolts, then finish on Aqualung.

FA: Ed Begoon

5.9, 7 bolts + ring anchors. Very high quality.

FA: George Powell

FA: Crazy Charlie

4 bolts, ring anchors.

FA: Michael Fisher

8 bolts, ring anchors at top. Note: A #1 Camalot was used after the last bolt during the first ascent. An excellent route, which many climbers feel is very stiff for a 5.9, probably a 5.10-.

FA: Michael Gray, 2008

3 bolts, plus ring anchors.

FA: Michael Fisher

8 bolts, cold shuts. To the right and just uphill from "Jumpstart". Climbing is very steep & sustained, passing five bolts to reach a chain dangling from above the lip of a sizable roof. Climb past the chain, clipping another bolt under the last roof. Powerful & delicate movement gains the final lip, and one more bolt. Pull the lip and continue to a set of welded cold shuts.

FA: Clay Clarke, 2009

3 bolts, ring anchors at top. Very committing to the first bolt, with bit of a run-out to the anchors as well. Good quality movement, and very solid for a 5.10a.

FA: Scott...?

4 bolts, rings at top. Steep, top quality.

FA: John Burcham

3 bolts. 2 sets of anchors exist...the FFA was to the right anchors.

FA: Michael Gray

3 bolts, & ring anchors.

FA: Darrel Hensley

Traverse right to big roof, then straight out. 4 bolts, plus anchors.

FA: Darrel Hensley

5 bolts, ring anchors. A classic route.

FA: Van Eitel?

A variation, diverging to the right, with a separate anchor.

FA: Van Eitel?

5 bolts, ring anchors.

FA: Van Eitel?

Trad route, with cold shut anchor at top.

FA: Scott?

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