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A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Ben Browand
Simon Dale
Michael Gray
@skandl
al campos
Daniel J. Rowand
Jonathan Horst
Henry Mueller
ness
Jesse Morehouse
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Franklin Gorge
98 in Crag
- 1.1. Parking Area Wall 8 in Sector
- 1.2. Contact Zone 20 in Sector
- 1.3. Impact Zone 43 in Sector
- 1.4. River's Bend 25 in Sector
- 1.5. The Ivory Tower 2 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Franklin Gorge 98 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport,?
and Trad
Long/Lat: -79.322003, 38.666496
- Description:
-
Located entirely on PRIVATE LAND, single pitch, mostly sport, some mixed & trad.
- Access Issues:
-
All known routes at Franklin are located on PRIVATE LAND, and therefor, access should not be taken for granted. Keeping a low profile is of utmost importance. The landowner & his family hunt on the plateau above the routes, so please apprise yourself of the State & Local hunting seasons, and act accordingly.
- Approach:
-
Your typical Potomac Highlands approach: Short & Steep. Staying on the trail is imperative, as even a slight mis-step causes a good bit of negative impact. Always remember that a hillside trail is much stronger on the uphill edge, and much weaker on the downhill edge. Approach times are from 10 seconds to about 15 minutes.
- Where To Stay:
-
Brandywine Recreational Area, Thorn Springs Campground, Star Hotel, Thompson's Motel
- Ethic:
-
Dogs are not welcome (PRIVATE LAND), Leave No Trace, stay on trails, you-damage-trail-you-fix-it-NOW, no trundling onto road, no Quick-Links, no tick marks, clean up your chalk, clean up your tape, no chipping, no theft, no defacement, use camouflaged hardware, inspect & replace worn carabiners, respect red tags, respect hunters & hunting seasons, no top-roping through fixed gear, etc., etc.
- History:
-
Sport climbing is known to have come to Franklin in the early 1990's, by then Harrisonburg local John Burcham. Other key developers are believed to be: Eddie & Tracy Begoon, Howard Clark, George Powell, Darrel Hensley, & Mike Artz, along with various others. Later & continued development was brought by Michael Fisher & Michael Gray. Later development at the River's Bend area is believed to be by Matthew Fanning, Matthew Behrins, Sam Powell, et.al.
1.1. Parking Area Wall 8 routes in Sector
- Summary:
- Mostly Sport
- Description:
-
This is the cliff that is visible right above the main parking area, offering some very sustained climbing, and is home to the first sport routes at Franklin.
- Approach:
-
Simply walk up the stone steps..."Two Blind Mice" is at the top of the steps, with the classic "Squeal Like A Pig" on your right, and more routes to the left.
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Fat Boy's Pork Palace
Trad, corner, a set of cold shut anchors has recently been added. FA: Unknown, | 5.7 |
Michael Gray 1 years agoJonathan Horst 8 years ago
| |||
| 2 |
Limestoned
First sport route to be established at Franklin. 6 bolts, ring anchors. FA: John Burcham, | 5.11b | 62ft | |||
| 3 |
This route links the first 3 bolts on "Route of All Evil", to the last bolt on "Limestoned". 6 bolts, plus ring anchors. A grade of 5.10- is more accurate. FA: Michael Fisher, | 5.10b | 62ft | |||
| 4 |
Route of All Evil
7 bolts, shuts. 5.9 if you use flex flake, and bypass the upper arete & 7th bolt. FA: Michael Fisher, | 5.10d | 7 |
J. Feher 4 years ago
| ||
| 5 |
4 bolts, shuts. FA: George Powell, | 5.9 | 50ft , 4 |
Saloca 4 years ago
| ||
| 6 |
Odysseus
To the right of Lunar Debris. 5 bolts, ring anchors. FA: Mike Gray, 2007 | 5.10a | 52ft , 5 |
Saloca 4 years ago
| ||
| 7 |
Two Blind Mice
6 bolts, ring anchors. High quality, and very sustained. FA: Michael Fisher, 2007 | 5.10c | 62ft , 6 | |||
| 8 |
Squeal Like A Pig
7 bolts, finishing at a set of chains. This is the rightmost route at the Parking Area Wall. Look for the graffiti. 1st bolt & hanger were recently replaced. FFA: John Burcham, | 5.10a | 56ft , 7 |
James Curry 5 years agoBen Browand 6 years ago
| ||
1.2. Contact Zone 20 routes in Sector
- Summary:
- Sport,? and Trad
- Description:
-
Located on private land, mostly sport routes, 2-8 bolts, ring anchors, cold shuts, or chain top anchors.
- Approach:
-
From the parking area, go up the stone steps, go right (upriver), follow the trail, less than 5 minutes.
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Raised by Sasquatch
A testy, two bolt route, with FIXE Super Shuts at top. | 5.9 | 30ft , 2 | |||
| 2 |
Sticks & Stones
To the right of Raised by Sasquatch. 6 bolts, finishing at a set of chains. Don't miss the 4th bolt, although it is somewhat hidden, it is directly above the 3rd. A decent moderate route. FFA: M. Fisher & M. Gray, 2008 | 5.6 | 59ft , 6 | |||
| 3 |
Days Gone By
A trad route, in the corner to the immediate left of Barney Rubble. FA: George Powell, | 5.7 | ||||
| 4 |
Barney Rubble
5 bolts, then traverse right to the anchors of Potential Energy. | 5.11b | 46ft , 5 | |||
| 5 |
On the steep arete, passing 5 bolts, and finishing at a set of ring anchors. An excellent route. Some parties prefer to clip the 1st bolt on "Barney Rubble", to provide added safety reaching the 1st bolt. | 5.10b | 50ft , 5 |
James Curry 6 years agoJonathan Horst 8 years ago
| ||
| 6 |
Shizzel
This route is located in between Potential Energy and Dynosaurus. FFA: UNKNOWN, | 5.12b | 55ft , 8 |
Thomas Blackford 7 years ago
| ||
| 7 |
FFA: Eddie Begoon, | 5.12a | 58ft , 7 | |||
| 8 |
Roofasaurus
Another excellent contribution by D. Hensley, bolted on lead. FFA: Darrel Hensley, FA: Darrel Hensley, | 5.11d | 62ft , 6 | |||
| 9 |
Hoss Corner
Traditional route, rappel from tree on ledge. FA: unknown, | 5.7 | ||||
| 10 |
The Grey Matter
This was an open project, to the right of Roofasaurus, with a proposed grade of 5.11a. The bolts have been installed, and the first ascent was done by Brian D. aka "The Tall Man". No further information is available at this time. FA: Brian D., 2008 | 5.11a | ||||
| 11 |
Hello
5 bolts, finish at anchors of Lost Planet Airmen. Original topo suggested use of medium cams. A #1 Camalot should be sufficient. FA: Eddie Begoon, | 5.10d | ||||
| 12 |
Lost Planet Airmen
6 bolts, ring anchors. FA: Eddie Begoon, | 5.11c | ||||
| 13 |
6 bolts, finishing at a set of ring anchors. A bit of a sandbag. Originally rated 5.10a, but current consensus suggests that heavy traffic has polished and/or broken some holds, leaving this route a letter grade or so harder. FA: Howard Clark, | 5.10a |
James Curry 6 years ago
| |||
| 14 |
Summer 2009: bolt hangers & top anchors replaced. FA: Michael Gray, | 5.9 | 49ft , 6 |
James Curry 8 years agoJonathan Horst 8 years ago
| ||
| 15 |
Break the Chain
8 bolts, finishing at a set of ring anchors. This route is described by many as an atypical Franklin route, offering a little something different in terms of holds. A very fine route, with cryptic & committing movements. FFA: Mike Artz ?, | 5.10c | 59ft , 8 | |||
| 16 |
route deleted
All fixed anchors have been removed from this route, due to the unsafe condition of the original hardware (non-welded 3/8" cold shuts as bolt hangers, lap-links, etc.), and a few close calls. Name of this route is "Deeper Shade of Soul". FA: Mike Artz, | 5.10a | ||||
| 17 |
6 bolts, finishing at a set of anchor chains w/ carabiners. Begin by scrambling onto the ledge above the trail, the 1st bolt can be reached from there. FFA: Michael Fisher, 2006 | 5.10c | 66ft , 6 | |||
| 18 |
Eddie's 10c Roof
From the trail, scramble up to a book. Climb the book, passing two bolts, and clipping a third at the lip of the roof above. Pull the roof on good holds, and continue up the head wall passing two more bolts, finishing at a set of welded cold shuts. Another great route, and one of the driest at the crag. FFA: Eddie Begoon, | 5.10c | 5 |
Jonathan Horst 8 years ago
| ||
| 19 |
unknown #1
Quite a ways up to the first bolt, with groundfall potential of 50 feet or more. Possibly a mixed route...some bolts, leading to a set of Metolius rap hangers at the top. Little else is known about this route. FA: unknown, | 5.9 X | 82ft , 5 | |||
| 20 |
Franklinstein
7 bolts, cold shut anchors. Climb the face past two bolts, to reach a very large ledge system. Walk left across the ledge, passing a good bit of loose rock, to reach a bolt at the lip of an overhang. Excellent 5.9ish climbing passes 4 more bolts and ends at a set of cold shuts. FFA: Michael Gray, | 5.10a | 62ft , 7 |
James Curry 6 years agoBen Browand 8 years ago
| ||
1.3. Impact Zone 43 routes in Sector
- Summary:
- Sport,? and Trad
- Description:
-
Located on private land, this is the upper level at Franklin, with a good selection of sport climbs, mostly in the 5.10 range.
- Approach:
-
5-10 minutes
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
route deleted
Route decommissioned in March 2008, due to safety concerns (2nd bolt was falling out, others were "shimmed" with glue). | 5.11c | ||||||
| 2 |
One For One
3 bolts, with a pair of rings at the top. FA: Darrel Hensley, | 5.12a | 30ft , 3 | |||||
| 3 |
9 bolts, finishing at a set of chains. FFA: George Powell, | 5.9 | 9 |
Saloca 4 years agoSaloca 4 years ago
| ||||
| 4 |
Almost Heaven
5 bolts, finishing at a set of ring anchors. An obscure route, situated on a ledge system above the trail. FFA: Michael Fisher, | 5.10 | 5 | |||||
| 5 |
route deleted
Bolts were removed on September 6th 2008, as requested by the first ascent party. This route is named "No Stoppin' The Burn". FA: Michael Gray, | 5.9 | 30ft | |||||
| 6 |
unknown #2
One of Franklin's best, but well "hidden" routes. 4 bolts, cold shut anchors at top. FA: Eddie Begoon, | 5.11b | 33ft , 4 | |||||
| 7 |
No Weld
A little run-out, til you get to the lip. FA: Mike Artz, | 5.9 |
James Curry 5 years agoJonathan Horst 9 years ago
| |||||
| 8 |
Wintermute
6 bolts, fishing at a set of ring anchors. UPDATE: New top anchor bolts were installed, Spring 2009 FFA: Michael Gray, 2006 | 5.9 | 66ft , 6 | |||||
| 9 |
Hand Job
5 bolts, Metolius rap hangers at top. Starting at the trail, climb short vertical face to a BIG ledge, passing one bolt before the mantel. Continue across the ledge, scrambling up low angled rock to the second bolt. Climb steepening rock, passing another bolt or two, gaining a small roof. Clip another bolt, pull the roof, climb a short headwall to reach the anchors. FA: The Bum Guides, | 5.9 |
Jonathan Horst 8 years ago
| |||||
| 10 |
Persephone
4 bolts, cold shut anchors. First bolt is very high up, on moderate terrain, but well out of stick-clip range...use your head. FA: Michael Fisher, 2008 | 5.11b | 62ft , 4 | |||||
| 11 |
4 bolts, finishing at a set of welded cold shuts. FFA: Tracy Begoon, | 5.8 | 43ft , 4 |
Saloca 4 years agoSaloca 4 years ago
| ||||
| 12 |
First Aid
4 bolts, plus ring anchors (recently added). FA: Michael Fisher, | 5.7 | 33ft , 4 |
Saloca 4 years agoSaloca 4 years ago
| ||||
| 13 |
unknown #3, AKA: Eddie's Arete
3 bolts, now has ring anchors. A testy little route. FFA: Eddie Begoon, | 5.10b | 33ft , 3 |
Jonathan Horst 8 years ago
| ||||
| 14 |
Captain Hook
It has been reported that, as of August 2010,the top anchors are missing on this route FA: M. Fisher, | 5.10d | 39ft , 4 | |||||
| 15 |
4 bolts, plus ring anchors. A complete top anchor replacement, including bolts, was done on this route on May 3rd 2008. UPDATE: Bolts #3 & 4 were replaced, Spring 2009. FFA: Mike Artz, | 5.10a | 56ft , 4 |
Saloca 4 years agoSaloca 4 years ago
| ||||
| 16 |
The Bends
5.11c, this is a left finish variation of Decompression Sickness, pulling through the big roof at the end. 9 bolts, chains at top. A very solid route, another testament to the strength of Mr. Begoon. A strong and rather tall young climber from NC once called this one of the "meatiest" routes at Franklin. FA: Eddie Begoon, | 5.11b | 43ft , 9 | |||||
| 17 |
7 bolts + ring anchors. Begin just left of "Barnacle Bill", the run to bolt #2 is definitely a "No Fall Zone". Climb past bolts, tending left after the shake-out, then up to a small roof. Pull the roof and continue up to anchors. FFA: George Powell, | 5.10c | 7 |
Mike Boss
| ||||
| 18 |
Start on Barnacle Bill, clipping the first 3 bolts, then go left to a good rest, and then through overhang. An excellent route. FFA: John Burcham, | 5.11b | 7 |
Jonathan Horst 6 years ago
| ||||
| 19 |
9 bolts, ring anchors. All remaining cold shuts were replaced with standard hangers in 2008. FA: Begoon/Clark, | 5.11b | 69ft , 9 | |||||
| 20 |
Starts on ledge, to the right of Barnacle Bill. 4 bolts, ring anchors at top. FA: George Powell, | 5.9 |
al campos
| |||||
| 21 |
Situated on the large but exposed ledge, climb the multi-teired overhangs, to a bolt in the last tier. Continue over the lip, and finish at a set of ring anchors. A nice, gymnastic route. FFA: John Burcham?, | 5.10d | 33ft , 5 |
Terence Kudo 6 years agoJames Curry 6 years ago
| ||||
| 22 |
Keelhauled
To the right of Super Amazing Sea Monkeys, 4 bolts, uses anchors of Belly of The Whale. FA: Darrel Hensley, | 5.10d | ||||||
| 23 |
Belly of The Whale
This route was chopped on March 12th 2009, by the first ascentionist, but has since been re-equipped by same. FA: Michael Gray, | 5.8 |
Megan 8 years agoTerence Kudo 8 years ago
| |||||
| 24 |
Skid Mark
This is a burly trad route, located about 15 yards to the left of Neptune. Climb moderate terrain to reach the big roof. Climb the slitter crack out the roof, and follow the crack up the short headwall. There is no fixed protection, save for a set of Metolius rap hangers at the top. FFA: Sam Powell, | 5.12b | ||||||
| 25 |
Wasp Stop
All hangers removed in March 2008, due to safety concerns (aging & corroded bolts). FA: Eric Anderson, | 5.9 |
Terence Kudo 8 years agoMegan 8 years ago
| |||||
| 26 |
| 5.10b | ||||||
| 27 |
Said to have been the original benchmark for 5.10a at Franklin. Left start is the original line (7 bolts, ring anchors). A right start (3 bolts) was added later. | 5.10a | ||||||
| 28 |
unknown #5, variation start to Aqualung
A right start variation to Aqualung, 3 bolts, then finish on Aqualung. FA: Ed Begoon, | 5.10d | ||||||
| 29 |
5.9, 7 bolts + ring anchors. Very high quality. FA: George Powell, | 5.9 | 75ft , 7 |
Ashton Erler 4 years agoJames Curry 8 years ago
| ||||
| 30 |
Hidden Treasure
FA: Crazy Charlie, | 5.11d | 82ft | |||||
| 31 |
4 bolts, ring anchors. FA: Michael Fisher, | 5.11d | 36ft , 4 |
al campos 8 years ago
| ||||
| 32 |
The Last Laugh
8 bolts, ring anchors at top. Note: A #1 Camalot was used after the last bolt during the first ascent. An excellent route, which many climbers feel is very stiff for a 5.9, probably a 5.10-. FA: Michael Gray, 2008 | 5.9 | 75ft , 8 |
Saloca 4 years ago
| ||||
| 33 |
3 bolts, plus ring anchors. FA: Michael Fisher, | 5.8 |
Saloca 4 years agoSaloca 4 years ago
| |||||
| 34 |
Davy Jones' Locker
8 bolts, cold shuts. To the right and just uphill from "Jumpstart". Climbing is very steep & sustained, passing five bolts to reach a chain dangling from above the lip of a sizable roof. Climb past the chain, clipping another bolt under the last roof. Powerful & delicate movement gains the final lip, and one more bolt. Pull the lip and continue to a set of welded cold shuts. FA: Clay Clarke, 2009 | 5.12a | 62ft , 8 | |||||
| 35 |
Early Retirement
3 bolts, ring anchors at top. Very committing to the first bolt, with bit of a run-out to the anchors as well. Good quality movement, and very solid for a 5.10a. FA: Scott...?, | 5.10a | 43ft , 3 | |||||
| 36 |
4 bolts, rings at top. Steep, top quality. FA: John Burcham, | 5.10d | 43ft , 4 | |||||
| 37 |
Hard Thang
3 bolts. 2 sets of anchors exist...the FFA was to the right anchors. FA: Michael Gray, | 5.10a | ||||||
| 38 |
3 bolts, & ring anchors. FA: Darrel Hensley, | 5.10b | 43ft | |||||
| 39 |
Mostly Harmless
Traverse right to big roof, then straight out. 4 bolts, plus anchors. FA: Darrel Hensley, | 5.11b | ||||||
| 40 |
5 bolts, ring anchors. A classic route. FA: Van Eitel?, | 5.10a | 39ft , 5 | |||||
| 41 |
unknown #7
A variation, diverging to the right, with a separate anchor. FA: Van Eitel?, | |||||||
| 42 |
unknown #8
5 bolts, ring anchors. FA: Van Eitel?, | 5.10b | ||||||
| 43 |
unknown #9
Trad route, with cold shut anchor at top. FA: Scott?, | 5.9 | 43ft | |||||
|
||||||||
1.4. River's Bend 25 routes in Sector
- Summary:
- Mostly Sport
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Sweet Dreams | 5.11d | ||||
| 2 |
Then I Fired the Gun
8 bolts, anchors at top. | 5.13a | ||||
| 3 | Wish I Were a Fisherman | 5.11a | ||||
| 4 | Unnamed | 5.11d | ||||
| 5 |
Wish I Were a Golfer
4 bolts, plus anchors. | 5.11b | ||||
| 6 | Dehydration | 5.13b | ||||
| 7 | Footloose | 5.11d | ||||
| 8 |
Hell Cat
6 bolts, plus anchors. | 5.11a | ||||
| 9 | Blowing Mud | 5.10a | ||||
| 10 | Dig Dog Dig (Left) | 5.12a | ||||
| 11 | Dig Dog Dig (Right) | 5.10b |
Ben Browand 8 years agoJonathan Horst 8 years ago
| |||
| 12 | I Saw the Carrot | 5.12c | ||||
| 13 | Flood Level | 5.13a | ||||
| 14 | Reflections | 5.13a | ||||
| 15 | Hell Fire | 5.13c | ||||
| 16 | Project (14a?) | |||||
| 17 | Southside | 5.12c | ||||
| 18 | Lizzie Borden's Axe | 5.13a | ||||
| 19 | Slush | 5.9 |
Jonathan Horst 8 years ago
| |||
| 20 | Sanitary Fish Market | 5.12b |
3 months ago
| |||
| 21 | In Your Face | 5.13a | ||||
| 22 | Get Well Card | 5.12c | ||||
| 23 | Sick | 5.13b | ||||
| 24 | Brand New Dance | 5.12a | ||||
| 25 | Unnamed2 | 5.11c | ||||
1.5. The Ivory Tower 2 routes in Sector
- Summary:
- All Sport
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Tusk
It is believed that The Ivory Tower routes were established by George Powell & John Burcham. | 5.10a | ||||
| 2 |
White Slaver
It is believed that The Ivory Tower routes were established by George Powell & John Burcham. | 5.10c | ||||

