Routes in Glen Canyon

Best top-roped, due to bad landing. Anchor off slung blocks and large cams.

Best top-roped, due to bad landing. Anchor off slung blocks and large cams.

Watch out for poison oak around the base.

Up the steep pillar. Harder if you don't use either arete.

Probably best to top-rope this one too.

A sketchy descent / ascent route. Vastly better to walk in & out to the right (facing the cliff).

Has been bouldered / soloed, but has a terrible landing so is better top roped (medium to large cams and a slung boulder well back from the top - watch for poison oak).

Hard!

The blunt arete and V-notch surfboard-esque overhang. Deceptive!

The steep prow on the right side of the chimney, using holds inside the chimney where needed. Note that some of the holds up high are loose, and there's a dangerous rock right in the landing zone.

The proud squeeze chimney, with two exits - behind the chockstone (tight), or in front of it.

Would recommend not being in here when an earthquake hits...

The classic introductory Glen Park problem.

Please be gentle with the lower right-hand starting crimp - it has started getting slightly wobbly in recent years. In particular don't try to wobble it, and don't use it as a foothold!

X rated without a rope, as the tenuous crux is right at the top.

Up the slab without using your hands. There are at least 3 independent variants - left, centre and right (slightly harder).

Circumnavigate the isolated boulder. Crux is getting around the low bulge that's the start of 'Undercling Problem'.

Excellent - takes in the best climbing of the Traverse. Harder variant stays low when traversing right.

Sit start and stay true to the arete, avoiding the temptation to move left (or right).

Direct into the finish of The Rail. Watch for loose rock in the initial section - there has been at least one serious accident here when a hold ripped off.

Hand traverse the obvious rail slot diagonally up and right.

Take care not to damage the ferns.

Exposed left hand finish to 'The Corner'. Think light thoughts as you pass the "surfboard".

At the painted arrow. Hard, highball and with a bad landing - toprope recommended.

Up the slippery slickenside on small sharp crimps, or awkward, but easier climbing up the crack on the right (V1). Either downclimb the corner to the left, or follow the crack right around the bulge to a highball mantle. Bad landing.

Good descent for this part of the cliff.

Although the crack start is ok (albeit very easy), this problem is best done in 2 "pitches" by starting down underneath the overhang to the left (as for 'Wasp Overhang'). Gets highball quick, due to the slope of the hill underneath. Top rope using slung boulder anchor.

Through the high double overhang left of 'Lulu', via the well-chalked shallow undercling. Sustained, highball and with a bad landing - toprope strongly recommended. Also watch the rock at the bottom - some large holds ripped off in the late 2000s and some of what's left is loose.

Traverses the high rail slot left of 'Wasp Overhang' (passing a snapped off piton). Highball.

This is the usual finish for the Glen Park Traverse, but is a good problem in its own right. Watch out for the headcracker slab of rock in the landing zone.

A good introductory problem. Walk off right on the ledge and down 'Descent', or continue up the easy but pleasant wall above.

Start at the far left hand end of the lower wall and traverse right to finish up Roof Arete. Can be continued all the way along the Main Cliff Band at an easier grade.

Not clear exactly where this is located, or even if it's on the main cliff band. GPS coords of 37.740548,-122.442921 were provided, but that's further down the canyon in a non-rocky area.

The blunt prow left of the V Chimney.

Up the slippery inverted V chimney, then up the crack above. Top rope recommended.

Avoids the hard part of The Unnatural Act by traversing above the roof, rather than underneath it.

The route Glen Park is famous for. A great roof problem that's best top-roped as it gets highball right at the crux.

Deceptively tricky and very slippery. Top rope recommended.

The best splitter at Glen Canyon, though it can be face climbed. Crux is down low. Watch for poison oak as you top-out.