Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Illinois 449 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: -89.089579, 40.166021

1.1. Giant City State Park 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Top Rope

Long/Lat: -89.185948, 37.600778

1.1.1. Shelter 1 Bluff 2 routes in Area

Summary:
Top Rope and Unknown

1.1.2. Devil's Standtable 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2. Draper's Bluff 22 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: -89.044396, 37.515666

Unique Features And Strengths:

This area is closed to climbing

Description:

This area is closed to climbing

Access Issues:

This area is closed to climbing

Approach:

This area is closed to climbing

Where To Stay:

This area is closed to climbing

Ethic:

This area is closed to climbing

1.3. Cedar Bluff 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: -89.025423, 37.519993

1.4. Jackson Falls 405 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: -88.688997, 37.503589

Unique Features And Strengths:

Density of shorter, medium strength sandstone, high quality climbs. slabby finishes a hallmark of the area.

Description:

Most anchors are rings or chains. It is important to note the number of QDs listed for each route and then assume 2 more will be needed for the anchor.

Approach:

West on 45 from Harrisburg, IL, keep on straight through Carrier Mills. Left on Ozark Road. After a sharp turn in the road just past Zion Church Cemetery, you will pass Trigg Tower Road on the right (do not turn on trigg tower road). Take a Right turn onto the gravel road just before the first farmhouse on the right. keep on this road for a few miles and you will find a parking area, further down there are parking options on various pull offs on the side of the road.

Where To Stay:

Camping around parking area for the crag.

History:

Much information listed here can be found in Vertical Heartland, A Rock Climber's Guide to Southern Illinois (3rd Ed) by Eric Ulner. However, that book is grossly out of date and there are many new climbs only kept track of by the local climbers.

1.4.1. Yosemite Slab 12 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Sport, Top Rope and Trad
Description:

After descending the dogwalk, follow the trail left towards east falls. You will cross the stream and keep on for a total of a few hundred feet until you come to an obvious slab boulder. This is Yosemite Boulder. It has on and around it a number of bouldering opportunities. The bolted lines begin on the the main ace just past the collection of boulders.

1.4.2. Royal Arch Wall 15 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Sport, Aid and other styles

Long/Lat: -88.665688, 37.503227

Description:

Past Yosemite Boulder, this area begins with a slab wall on which the first few climbs begin at trail level, and the others begin atop an obvious shelf.

1.4.3. Snakes Roof 3 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Sport and Top Rope
Description:

Following the cliff, left past Royal Arch, you will come around a corner and be under a 15 foot near horizontal roof with three bolted lines on it.

1.4.4. Lovely Tower 7 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

Continue left, past snakes roof, and the first detached block, visible from snakes roof, is Lovely Tower

1.4.5. Wave Wall 4 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Sport, Top Rope and Unknown

1.4.6. The Doors 20 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Sport and Trad

1.4.7. Spleef Peak 14 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Top Rope
Description:

This is a free standing boulders where the newbies typically play. Expect a line.

1.4.8. North Falls Area 9 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Sport, Top Rope and Trad

1.4.9. Wizard Wall 9 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

1.4.10. The Gallery 15 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Top Rope
Description:

Very popular place where the regulars warm up.

1.4.11. Black Sheep Boulder 5 routes in Unknown

Summary:
All Sport

1.4.12. Applejack Wall 11 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Top Rope

1.4.13. Battle Axe Tower 9 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Sport, Top Rope and Trad

1.4.14. Exam Wall 19 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Top Rope

1.4.15. The Munchkin Boulder 2 routes in Unknown

Summary:
All Sport

1.4.16. Mr. Jimmy 20 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: -88.688968, 37.504585

Description:

This area has some classic face climbing. But the newbies like to play here because they can climb Chicken Shack and then drop a top rope on the harder classics. Get there early or expect to deal with a line.

1.4.17. Beaver Wall 16 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Mostly Sport

1.4.18. Big Star Wall 32 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Mostly Sport

1.4.19. Hobo Cave 11 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Aid

1.4.20. Railroad Rock 22 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -88.691942, 37.508806

1.4.21. Higher Ed Zone 4 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Sport and Trad

1.4.22. East Falls Main Wall 2 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Trad and Sport

1.4.23. Manky Alcove 5 routes in Unknown

Summary:
All Sport

1.4.24. The Cobra 2 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Top Rope and Sport

1.4.25. Dolphin Rock 3 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Sport and Trad

1.4.26. Rainy Day Roof 8 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Sport and Trad

1.4.27. East Falls Main Wall Part 2 11 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Top Rope
Description:

Technically, this is part of the "main wall" of the East Falls, but it's so far down from Jelly Fish and Chuck-O-Rama that it seems silly to put these routes under the same section with them.

1.4.28. Hidden Peaks 25 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:

This area has a bit of everything from 5.8 to stiff 12s. Shade all the time, stays cold on chilly days.

1.4.29. The Basement 3 routes in Unknown

Summary:
All Sport

1.4.30. Belleville Wall 4 routes in Unknown

Summary:
All Sport

1.4.31. Town Square 4 routes in Unknown

Summary:
All Sport

1.4.32. The Ranch 1 route in Unknown

Summary:
All Sport

1.4.33. East Falls Main Wall Part 3 23 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

Again, this is part of the main wall of the East Falls, but far separated from the other routes (i.e. Iniquity and The Diggler) on this wall.

1.4.34. The Promised Land 43 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -88.693274, 37.498870

Description:

The Promised Land is considered part of Jackson Falls, but lies just west of the main Jackson Falls Canyon, with railroad tracks lying between the two. It is not advised that anyone trespass on railroad property. Access can be gained by hiking north from the River-to-River Trail, or south from the Jackson Hollow Natural Area.

1.5. Garden of the Gods 0 routes in Crag

1.6. Kankakee River State Park 0 routes in Crag

1.7. Mississippi Palisades State Park 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: -90.151676, 42.144780

1.7.1. Sentinal Area 6 routes in Area

Summary:

1.8. Springfield 0 routes in Crag

1.9. Ferne Cliff 0 routes in Crag

1.10. Cave in Rock 0 routes in Crag

1.11. Holy Boulders 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: -89.411003, 37.619346

1.11.1. Mollusk Boulder 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: -89.412381, 37.615642

1.11.2. Illuminati Boulders 0 routes in Field

1.11.3. Tyler Durden Area 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: -89.411120, 37.616118

1.12. The Spot 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

1.13. The Roost 0 routes in Crag

1.14. One Horse Gap 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

1.15. Lake Kincaid 0 routes in Crag