Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Mon 25th Mar 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Optimator Wall | |||||||
5.11- | ★★★ Soul Fire - with Amelie Beaudoin, Jacques Beaudoin | 27m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Pre-placed gear with otherwise near onsight beta, shuffling up the only #1 left in our rack, was a true battle
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Thu 16th Nov 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Second Meat Wall | |||||||
5.10 | Low Cholesterol | 18m | |||||
Not enough six's to safely lead this but damn I love offwidths! one sit cause tired but awesome movement. Agree with the sentiment "The brutality of offwidth climbing disguises the craft" Bob Scarpelli
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5.11- | ★★★ At Your Cervix | 34m | |||||
would be a different experience placing gear but super fun moves and starting to get 0.5s & 0.75s (finally)
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5.10 | The Switch | 27m | |||||
kinda choss at top but cool
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Thu 16th Nov 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Battle of the Bulge Buttress | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Cave Route | ||||||
what an epic! pumped out on thin hands and baggy fingers, couldnt see gear at the top and got a head torch passed up. Getting really good at aid climbing
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Thu 16th Nov 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Reservoir Wall | |||||||
5.11 | ★★ Raja | ||||||
thought this was Ninja and had the wrong gear had to get more gear sent up, mini epic. Easier on TR would love to go back for RP
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Thu 16th Nov 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Optimator Wall | |||||||
5.12- | ★★★ Anunnaki | 15m | |||||
dogged my way up to get rope up, spat off at 0.75 zig zag section but liked the top. Such a cool climb
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Thu 16th Nov 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Supercrack Buttress | |||||||
5.10 | ★★★ Supercrack of the Desert | 30m | |||||
big 3s trucking along
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Wed 15th Nov 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Second Meat Wall | |||||||
5.10 | ★★ Tofu Crack | 34m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Better than Luxury if we're talking about long #2 cracks in the desert. Awesome chugging on perfect jams.
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Wed 15th Nov 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Cat Wall | |||||||
5.11+ | ★★★ Desert Moon | 45m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Wicked hardish climbing up an inset right facing corner down low guards entry to about 15m of perfect #2s up gentle steepness to the anchor. Fucking unreal.
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Wed 15th Nov 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Reservoir Wall | |||||||
5.10- | ★★ Unnamed | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I don't love #3's
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5.11- | ★★★ Pente | 49m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
10 #1's and like one of everything else. What a stonker of a route. Thin hands forever.
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Wed 15th Nov 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Optimator Wall | |||||||
5.10+ | ★★ Unnamed 1 | 25m | |||||
Listed as "Casey's Route" in the Kelly Guide. Really strange sandy climbing.
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5.12- | ★★★ Anunnaki | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
This thing is gorgeous. Sad I couldn't get another few hoons on it. Next time I guess!
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5.10- | ★★ Lady Pillar | 37m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Chill but weird
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Wed 15th Nov 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Supercrack Buttress | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Coyne Crack | ||||||
Ouch
Greens hurt. |
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5.11d | ★★★ Fingers in a Light Socket (Super Corner) | 18m | |||||
Really fun lieback. Couldn't make it happen on lead despite a clean lap or two on TR.
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5.9 | ★ Unknown 4 | 8m | ★ Good | ||||
Warmup while in line for Luxury Liner
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5.10 | ★★★ Supercrack of the Desert | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Now a slightly diminished classic I guess. Would have loved to have climbed it in it's sharp original glory. A great outing regardless.
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Wed 15th Nov 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Cat Wall | |||||||
5.11+ | ★★★ Wild Cat | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
11+? Hooly dooly. Maybe 11+12.
Tried this a few times. A rough lesson in green and purple pure jamming. Awesome but couldn't pull it off. |
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5.10+ | ★★★ Tom Cat | 28m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Didn't take enough gear. Built a pretty paltry nest at about halfway then ran it out to the anchor. Class.
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5.10 | ★★★ Cat Got Your Tongue | 21m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
First creek crack. Fun!
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Thu 2nd Nov 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Supercrack Buttress | |||||||
5.12a ~5.11d | ★★★ Coyne Crack - with William Wardlaw-Kelly, eric the photog | ★★★ Classic | |||||
One lap to rig the fixed line another for the glory photos
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Sat 28th Oct 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Second Meat Wall | |||||||
5.10 | ★ Samurai Loving - with Fraser | 43m | ★ Good | ||||
Loose sandy start takes away from the cool corner.
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Sat 28th Oct 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Supercrack Buttress | |||||||
5.10d | ★★★ The Wave - with Fraser | 33m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Favourite climb on the wall, super cool
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Wed 25th Oct 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Supercrack Buttress | |||||||
5.10d | ★★★ The Wave | 33m | |||||
Damn one hang
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5.12a ~5.11d | ★★★ Coyne Crack | ||||||
Damn I grabbed a draw to clip, otherwise clean, wouldv been highest onsight.
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5.10 | ★★★ Supercrack of the Desert | 30m | |||||
The most perfect crack I've ever climbed, kinda too perfect, kinda like a ladder.
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Tue 24th Oct 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Optimator Wall | |||||||
5.10+ | Mudslide - with William Wardlaw-Kelly | 30m | |||||
Trying to get booty, didn't work out
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5.12- Easy | ★★★ Anunnaki - with William Wardlaw-Kelly | 15m | |||||
Honestly it's steep and I suck at steep so I found it hard
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5.12- | ★★★ Anunnaki - with Fraser | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Closer to 11 b/c but an absolute classic none the less.
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Mon 23rd Oct 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 4x4 Wall | |||||||
5.11a | ★ Take 10 | 18m | |||||
What the hell, Probably not the offwidth to learn on
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Fri 20th Oct 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Reservoir Wall | |||||||
5.12- | ★★ Gurka | 18m | |||||
One hang, sick but hard, thanks for the tr will
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Thu 19th Oct 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Second Meat Wall | |||||||
5.10+ PG13 Hard | ★★★ Mouse Meat - with William Wardlaw-Kelly | 46m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
My first proper desert splitter offwidth, so good!
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5.11+ ~5.12- | ★★★ Ninja Bedwetter - with William Wardlaw-Kelly | 43m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
This route is good! Used 6 .75s then tagged up an extra couple. Once I took the whip, I just started taking at every bit of gear, felt pretty full on as the warm up!
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5.12- | ★★★ X-tra Lean - with William Wardlaw-Kelly | 20m | |||||
One of the easier of the 12-s I've tried, very fun line, I think we'll come back to second meat wall, so I'd be keen to clean this up
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5.11 | ★★★ Top Sirloin - with cam, kieran | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Nine 1s so good, maybe the most splitter thing we've climbed yet.
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5.10 | ★★ Tofu Crack - with cam, kieran | 34m | |||||
Speed toprope so good
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Wed 18th Oct 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Scarface Wall | |||||||
5.12- | ★★★ Comic Relief - with William Wardlaw-Kelly | 20m | |||||
One jam away from success
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Tue 17th Oct 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Scarface Wall | |||||||
5.11- | ★★★ Lieutenant Uhuru - with William Wardlaw-Kelly | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
More lackbacking in a corner
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Sun 15th Oct 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Battle of the Bulge Buttress | |||||||
5.12b | ★★ Swedin-Ringle Route - with William Wardlaw-Kelly | ||||||
Three goodish lead attempts and one clean top rope
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5.11a | ★★★ Crack Attack - with William Wardlaw-Kelly | ||||||
Very soft rock, kind freaky to see how much it wears out here
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5.11 | ★★ Fat Boy Slim - with William Wardlaw-Kelly | 20m | |||||
Gross, need to refine my offwidth
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5.11b | ★★★ Dark Corner (Black Dihedral) - with William Wardlaw-Kelly | 27m | |||||
More layback
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5.12b | ★★ Swedin-Ringle Route - with William Wardlaw-Kelly | ||||||
Another hangdog .75
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5.11b | ★★ Three Strikes You're Out - with William Wardlaw-Kelly | ||||||
Sick layback!
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Sun 15th Oct 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Cliffs of Insanity | |||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Unamed 5.10+ - with William Wardlaw-Kelly | 40m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
First route at the creek
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5.11- | ★★★ M.C.'s Hammer - with William Wardlaw-Kelly | ||||||
This route had me thinking are splitter handjams that good, it's just the same more over an over?
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Mon 9th Oct 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Supercrack Buttress | |||||||
5.10 | ★★★ No Name Crack - with Tom Semple | 37m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Had a fall at the wide bit. Potentially missed some features. So good. Interesting slippery quartzite layer on the rock at the start.
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5.10 | ★★★ Incredible Hand Crack - with Tom Semple | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Came back for the lead. Went well. Just needed to push through the steep section.
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Thu 5th Oct 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 The Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Dirty Girl - with Rach, Tom Semple | 11m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice varied jambing and bridging.
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5.10 | ★★★ Run Like Hell - with Rach, Tom Semple | 21m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Amazing intro to Indian Creek. Sustained moves across the traverse and couldn’t make it through to the anchor.
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Thu 5th Oct 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Scarface Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Spam - with Rach, Tom Semple | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
Nice change to have a few face moves.
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5.10 | ★★ Trading Places - with Rach, Tom Semple | 24m | ★ Good | ||||
Had to fight at the transition to stay in the crack.
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5.11- | ★★★ Scarface - with Rach, Tom Semple | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Happy to onsight the bottom bouldery start, but messed up the tight hands sections but higher. One fall.
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5.10+ | ★★★ Black Uhuru - with Rach, Tom Semple | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Long and intimidating. Some committing layback sections and a real cruxy roof.
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Wed 4th Oct 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Supercrack Buttress | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ 3 A.M. Crack - with Rach, Tom Semple | 34m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
What a marathon! Lots of wide hands.
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5.11- | ★★ Unamed crack - with Rach, Tom Semple | 27m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
One hang
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5.11 ~5.10 | ★★ Wild Works of Fire - with Rach, Tom Semple | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Little tricky off the ground and coming out of the pod. Nice varied styles throughout.
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5.10 |
★★★ Supercrack of the Desert P1
- with
Rach, Tom Semple
1
| 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Doesn’t let up.
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Tue 3rd Oct 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Supercrack Buttress | |||||||
5.10- | ★★★ Super Surprised - with Rach, Tom Semple | 43m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Such a nice surprise! Great route.
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5.10 | ★ Legend of creepy hollow - with Rach, Tom Semple | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
Wide and thrutchy off the ground. Then scary hollow flakes. Top overhanging crack was fun and finally some good rock. Wouldn’t do again.
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5.8 | ★★ Twin Cracks - with Rach, Tom Semple | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice enough. Probably made it a bit more thrutchy than necessary.
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5.10 | ★★★ Incredible Hand Crack - with Rach, Tom Semple | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Amazing line. One tough section through the overhang and the rest was ok.
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Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Broken Tooth | |||||||
5.12 | ★★★ Rhythm Method | 20m | |||||
nice easy warm up
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Wed 10th May 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Donnelly Canyon | |||||||
5.10- | ★★ Elephant Man Pitch 1 | 24m | ★ Good | ||||
a few slips out of insecure foot jams. still poor rope management, and overgripping (if possible on jams?) due to nerves
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Mon 8th May 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Battle of the Bulge Buttress | |||||||
5.9 Hard | The Warm-Up | 12m | |||||
fell even lower on TR
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5.10+ Easy | ★★★ Pigs In Space | 37m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
i blame being exhausted from north sixshooter. didn't bring enough gear (or at least slings), got spooked at second pod after wasting a tonne of energy un-stepping on the rope. might try to return with more gear and better rope management
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5.9 Hard | The Warm-Up | 12m | |||||
when the guide said 'hard for 5.8+' i didn't think i was going to retreat from the warmup. got through the #0.5 section but slipped/fell/spooked at the #1 section
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Sun 7th May 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 North Sixshooter Peak | |||||||
5.11b III | ★★★ Lightning Bolt Cracks - with Colten | 99m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
epic first desert tower for me! i seconded everything (with a generous belay in parts) and aided through one #6 section. we did some combination of this and Liquid Gold (started on LBC, linked up LG, leader retreated from roof squeeze (fair enough really), bailed back onto and finished up LG). thoroughly destroyed by the approach and climb but had so much fun, and the position was unbelievable
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Mon 1st May 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Supercrack Buttress | |||||||
5.10 | ★★ Keyhole Flakes | 21m | |||||
lap to clean - much better jamming beta on TR but still 2-3 sits up high, just out of stamina
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5.10 | ★★ Keyhole Flakes - with Carly | 21m | |||||
got completely thrashed, but made it to anchors doing all moves and placing all gear on lead, and found good butterfly beta for (my) crux. further outed myself as a filthy sport climber by finding completely orthogonal sections hard compared to climbing partner
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5.9 ~5.9 | ★ Unnamed 1 | 12m | |||||
nice warm up
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Sun 30th Apr 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Supercrack Buttress | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Twin Cracks - with Carly | 12m | |||||
fun first Creek lead! glad I didn't TR it last week.
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Tue 25th Apr 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Supercrack Buttress | |||||||
5.10 | ★★★ Incredible Hand Crack | 30m | |||||
hard
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5.10 | ★★ Keyhole Flakes | 21m | |||||
had to sit at the start of the fist crack, which was slightly too wide for me
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Tue 25th Apr 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 4x4 Wall | |||||||
5.11a | ★ Take 10 - with shane | 18m | |||||
Offwidth weirdness
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5.14- | Carbondale Short Bus - with shane | ||||||
Wow! Something to inspire to !! Sorta managed Todo the final jump !
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Tue 25th Apr 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Donnelly Canyon | |||||||
5.13- | Half Man, Half Alligator Shark - with shane | 24m | |||||
Sickkkkk!!
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5.9 | ★★★ Generic Crack - with shane | 33m | |||||
Wow didn't realise hand jams could be boring
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Tue 25th Apr 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Battle of the Bulge Buttress | |||||||
5.13a | ★★★ Ruby's Café - with shane | 21m | |||||
Pretty happy with the progress on this one ! Went from a desparate dog to feeling pretty solid! May have went if I had a rest day ahah
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5.12c | ★★★ Digital Readout - with shane | 15m | |||||
Sharp locks 🤠
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5.11b | ★★★ Dark Corner (Black Dihedral) - with shane | 27m | |||||
Tried to layback the whole thing & I was so close
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5.12b | ★★ Swedin-Ringle Route - with shane | ||||||
Probably 5.9 as a layback ahaha.
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Tue 25th Apr 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Supercrack Buttress | |||||||
5.10 | ★★★ Supercrack of the Desert - with shane | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Ooooo ... Wow !
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5.10 | ★★★ Incredible Hand Crack - with shane | 30m | |||||
First route in the creek !
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Tue 25th Apr 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Battle of the Bulge Buttress | |||||||
5.11+ | ★★★ The Big Baby | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Couldnt turn the roof on fists. Once the aid train starts its hard to stop! Freed a couple sections but really full cred goes to the no.6s that pulled me most of the way. Especially the one i chocked in the 5 section and had to send 3 tr heros up to eventually free it with a brick size rock. Shane tr sent with hallies pink trackies on. A sight. Tony had spare zip ties to replace the wire-trigger attachment shane blew out trying to free it from the wall, so i could sheepishly return the stuck 6 to its rightful owner in the campsite, having severely lowered its life expectancy. Maybe we leave the OWs for the walls where they have to be done rather than electing to do them at crags, at the expense of perfectly good cracks of tasteful sizes.
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Mon 24th Apr 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Donnelly Canyon | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Chocolate Corner | 18m | |||||
still strenuous, but much better the second time
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Sat 22nd Apr 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Battle of the Bulge Buttress | |||||||
5.13a | ★★★ Ruby's Café | 21m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Shane hoofed up on lead and set a toppy for all us plebs to go rip the skin off our fingers (on this and digital readout). Would be amazing to climb this well! doesnt feel like you need to be super strong, just a really good creek climber. The roof goes surprisingly easy (i still stuffed it). Despite my floundering, it felt cool being on the same piece of rock as in the stanhope arcteryx vid ive watched a million times.
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Thu 20th Apr 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Scarface Wall | |||||||
5.11+ | ★★★ Desert Vuarnet | 45m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Great time lashing out at this mega adventure corner with phil. Despite very different methods both of us found ourselves 90% up all clean. He built a nest and punched to the top for the send. I also built a nest.. add #1 to the list of sizes i cant climb at the creek. Scarface is the superior crag. I had 2 burns at comic relief (project!?); a series of tiered finger crack rooflets going at 5.12-. Fell 4 moves off the victory hand pod on the OS and 1 move off on burn 2 for a good clean gear whipper. Agonizingly close to the first legitimate 12er of the trip. Music and wax box campfire at camp was lovely if not a little hazardous with a concurrent wind storm.
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Tue 11th Apr 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Supercrack Buttress | |||||||
5.11+ | ★★★ Left Affair | 24m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Best creek pitch so far. No .75s which was very welcome. Just pinkys down and .3s up to a roof. Then just when your struggling.. INSERTA KNEEBAR. Forget about the predicament you reside in and let your quad skin deal with it. Then pull into double sidepull and reach 7 metres above your head to the final fingerlock. I wussed out of doing this move because i was already 2cm above 2 bomber cams. Very brave. Rad duality was a delightful hands journey and the onslot, a surprisingly fun roof boulder followed by awkward v-groove. Great day avoiding chalk at supercrack buttress
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Tue 11th Apr 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 North Sixshooter Peak | |||||||
5.11b III | ★★★ Lightning Bolt Cracks | 99m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Abit shorter than the bridger jacks but definitely a more epic view on top and definitely more lights out climbing on average. The roof on the second mega pitch has the exposure of disco non stop party. Never shit myself harder on perfect hands. Chimney up high almost involved a harness removal, luckily ive gone jusssst easy enough on the rip off oreos back at camp.
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Tue 11th Apr 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Bridger Jack Spires King of Pain | |||||||
5.10d R | ★★★ Vision Quest | 140m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Wicked adventure and stellar first desert tower. A real alpine touch at the end, i started climbing the wrong pillar and had to get my knee stuck to pull my phone out and access mountain project to discover i needed the other pillar. Accidentally booted antoines new 3 into the back of a chimney. Expensive kick that was.
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Sat 8th Apr 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Battle of the Bulge Buttress | |||||||
5.12b | ★★ Swedin-Ringle Route | ||||||
yay
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Wed 5th Apr 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Battle of the Bulge Buttress | |||||||
5.10 | ★★★ Unknown 3 - with Fabian Michel | 12m | |||||
Too hard for the first route in Indian creek for me. But good for practicing some lay backing.
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Fri 31st Mar 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Battle of the Bulge Buttress | |||||||
5.10 | ★★★ Unknown 3 — 2 attempts - with Klara R | 12m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Called 'The Mayes'. Was too hard for the first Indian Creek lead - at least it felt hard while leading and placing gear. Felt much easier on toprope and after deciding to layback the first part of the crack until you can get in decent handjams.
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Tue 28th Mar 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Battle of the Bulge Buttress | |||||||
5.13a | ★★★ Ruby's Café | 21m | |||||
Cruiser than expected but would be something else on lead! Flashed the first crux transition and finished the bottom section with 2 sits.
Then a loooong sit to work out the roof. Pretty pooped on that one but it went. Double kneebar. Rad. |
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5.10b | ★★ Railroad Tracks | 15m | |||||
Repoot. Warmuup.
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Mon 27th Mar 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Battle of the Bulge Buttress | |||||||
5.12b | ★★ Swedin-Ringle Route | ||||||
Didditttt.
Toppie, but I’ve learned so much on this climb that I’m actually pretty ok with that! |
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Sat 25th Mar 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Battle of the Bulge Buttress | |||||||
5.12b | ★★ Swedin-Ringle Route | ||||||
Almost did it this time. Slipped moving past the last bad lock.
Note to self: hitting bumholes with alternate hands is way less pumpy than swimming through them… make of that what you will I guess 🤷♂️ |