A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Dairy Queen Wall 28 routes in Cliff

Trad, Unknown and other styles

This wall has a fairly obvious left and right side clff bands, with the right side being higher, above and left of the IRS wall, and the left-side being along the same band, but lower down and farther left.


From the Hemingway parking lot, head towards the rock, opposite direction from the road, until you reach the rock, then turn left and walk along the base of the rock until below the Dair Queen wall. For the left side, scramble up below the climb you want. For the right side, scramble up slabs to the base. About 500 yards.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Blizzard 5.9 Unknown
2 Double Delight 5.7 Unknown

1.1. Left Side 14 routes in Sector

Trad, Sport and Unknown

The lower section, farther to the left.

Descent Notes:

For climbs that finish at the top of the main block, walk (climber's) left along the top, then scramble down. For climbs that finish on the ledge in the center, rappel Norm (on the left) or the rap anchor at the right end of the ledge. For the climbs farther right, rappel Mojus.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Foot Massage 5.10b Mixed 70ft, 4
2 Norm 5.10a Sport 80ft, 5
3 Snake Oil 5.7 Trad 80ft
4 Leap Erickson

Bolts for the climb, medium cams for the anchor.

5.10b Mixed 100ft, 7
5 ** Leap Year Flake 5.7 Trad 90ft
6 Chili Dog 5.6 Unknown
7 * The Mojus / Slushie 5.10c Sport 100ft, 8
8 * Addams Family / Get Right or Get Left 5.9 Trad 100ft
9 Gomez 5.11c Mixed 90ft, 4
10 Lurch

My photo from 2012 suggests the nature of this climb may have greatly changed due to rock movement since the guide photon in Miramontes guide book (2011).

5.8 Trad 90ft

The following four routes start from a ledge above Snake Oil and Leap Erickson.

11 * Brother From Another Planet 5.11a R Mixed 30ft, 3
12 * Electric Free Gordon 5.12a R Mixed 35ft, 4
13 *** Pat Adams Dihedral 5.11c Trad 35ft
14 ** Toxic Waltz 5.12a Mixed 35ft, 4

1.2. Right-side 12 routes in Sector

Mostly Trad

The uper section, farther to the right.

Descent Notes:

Walk climbers-right along the top until you reach an easy 5th-class chimney that will drop you back down to the base.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * I Forgot To Have Babies 5.10b Top rope 80ft
2 ** Airy Scene 5.11b Mixed 80ft, 4
3 * Scrumdillyishus 5.7 Trad 80ft
4 ** Frosty Cone 5.7 Trad 80ft
5 * Hot Fudge / Chili Dog 5.9 to 5.10a R Trad 70ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Dilly Bar

Climb the blocky chimney.

5.5 Trad 60ft
7 ** Mr. Misty Kiss 5.7 Trad 60ft
8 * Double Decker 5.6 Trad
9 Bill's Nuts 5.7 Trad 50ft
10 * Nuts and Cherries 5.6 R Trad 45ft
11 Date Shake 5.6 Trad 35ft
12 * Biological Clock 5.9 Mixed 1

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
5.5 Dilly Bar Trad 60ft 1.2. Right-side
5.6 Chili Dog Unknown 1.1. Left Side
Date Shake Trad 35ft 1.2. Right-side
* Double Decker Trad 1.2. Right-side
5.6 R * Nuts and Cherries Trad 45ft 1.2. Right-side
5.7 Double Delight Unknown 1. Dairy Queen Wall
** Leap Year Flake Trad 90ft 1.1. Left Side
Snake Oil Trad 80ft 1.1. Left Side
Bill's Nuts Trad 50ft 1.2. Right-side
** Frosty Cone Trad 80ft 1.2. Right-side
** Mr. Misty Kiss Trad 60ft 1.2. Right-side
* Scrumdillyishus Trad 80ft 1.2. Right-side
5.8 Lurch Trad 90ft 1.1. Left Side
5.9 Blizzard Unknown 1. Dairy Queen Wall
* Addams Family Trad 100ft 1.1. Left Side
* Biological Clock Mixed 1 1.2. Right-side
5.9 to 5.10a * Hot Fudge Trad 70ft 1.2. Right-side
5.10a Norm Sport 80ft, 5 1.1. Left Side
5.10b Foot Massage Mixed 70ft, 4 1.1. Left Side
Leap Erickson Mixed 100ft, 7 1.1. Left Side
* I Forgot To Have Babies Top rope 80ft 1.2. Right-side
5.10c * The Mojus Sport 100ft, 8 1.1. Left Side
5.11a * Brother From Another Planet Mixed 30ft, 3 1.1. Left Side
5.11b ** Airy Scene Mixed 80ft, 4 1.2. Right-side
5.11c Gomez Mixed 90ft, 4 1.1. Left Side
*** Pat Adams Dihedral Trad 35ft 1.1. Left Side
5.12a * Electric Free Gordon Mixed 35ft, 4 1.1. Left Side
** Toxic Waltz Mixed 35ft, 4 1.1. Left Side