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Table of contents
JFMAMJJASONDseasonalityTrad, Unknown and other styles
This wall has a fairly obvious left and right side clff bands, with the right side being higher, above and left of the IRS wall, and the left-side being along the same band, but lower down and farther left.
From the Hemingway parking lot, head towards the rock, opposite direction from the road, until you reach the rock, then turn left and walk along the base of the rock until below the Dair Queen wall. For the left side, scramble up below the climb you want. For the right side, scramble up slabs to the base. About 500 yards.
Trad, Sport and Unknown
The lower section, farther to the left.
- Descent Notes:
For climbs that finish at the top of the main block, walk (climber's) left along the top, then scramble down. For climbs that finish on the ledge in the center, rappel Norm (on the left) or the rap anchor at the right end of the ledge. For the climbs farther right, rappel Mojus.
Bolts for the climb, medium cams for the anchor.
|5||Leap Year Flake||5.7||90ft|
|7||The Mojus / Slushie||5.10c||8100ft,|
|8||Addams Family / Get Right or Get Left||5.9||100ft|
My photo from 2012 suggests the nature of this climb may have greatly changed due to rock movement since the guide photon in Miramontes guide book (2011).
The following four routes start from a ledge above Snake Oil and Leap Erickson.
|11||Brother From Another Planet||5.11a R||330ft,|
|12||Electric Free Gordon||5.12a R||435ft,|
|13||Pat Adams Dihedral||5.11c||35ft|
The uper section, farther to the right.
- Descent Notes:
Walk climbers-right along the top until you reach an easy 5th-class chimney that will drop you back down to the base.
|1||I Forgot To Have Babies||5.10b||80ft|
|5||Hot Fudge / Chili Dog||5.9 to 5.10a R||70ft|
Climb the blocky chimney.
|7||Mr. Misty Kiss||5.7||60ft|
|10||Nuts and Cherries||5.6 R||45ft|