A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

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Table of contents

1. Dairy Queen Wall 28 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Unknown and other styles
Description:

This wall has a fairly obvious left and right side clff bands, with the right side being higher, above and left of the IRS wall, and the left-side being along the same band, but lower down and farther left.

Approach:

From the Hemingway parking lot, head towards the rock, opposite direction from the road, until you reach the rock, then turn left and walk along the base of the rock until below the Dair Queen wall. For the left side, scramble up below the climb you want. For the right side, scramble up slabs to the base. About 500 yards.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Blizzard 5.9Unknown
2 Double Delight 5.7Unknown

1.1. Left Side 14 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Unknown
Description:

The lower section, farther to the left.

Descent Notes:

For climbs that finish at the top of the main block, walk (climber's) left along the top, then scramble down. For climbs that finish on the ledge in the center, rappel Norm (on the left) or the rap anchor at the right end of the ledge. For the climbs farther right, rappel Mojus.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Foot Massage 5.10bMixed 70ft, 4
2 Norm 5.10aSport 80ft, 5
3 Snake Oil 5.7Trad 80ft
4 Leap Erickson

Bolts for the climb, medium cams for the anchor.

5.10bMixed 100ft, 7
5 ** Leap Year Flake 5.7Trad 90ft
6 Chili Dog 5.6Unknown
7 * The Mojus / Slushie 5.10cSport 100ft, 8
8 * Addams Family / Get Right or Get Left 5.9Trad 100ft
9 Gomez 5.11cMixed 90ft, 4
10 Lurch

My photo from 2012 suggests the nature of this climb may have greatly changed due to rock movement since the guide photon in Miramontes guide book (2011).

5.8Trad 90ft

The following four routes start from a ledge above Snake Oil and Leap Erickson.

11 * Brother From Another Planet 5.11a RMixed 30ft, 3
12 * Electric Free Gordon 5.12a RMixed 35ft, 4
13 *** Pat Adams Dihedral 5.11cTrad 35ft
14 ** Toxic Waltz 5.12aMixed 35ft, 4

1.2. Right-side 12 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:

The uper section, farther to the right.

Descent Notes:

Walk climbers-right along the top until you reach an easy 5th-class chimney that will drop you back down to the base.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * I Forgot To Have Babies 5.10bTop rope 80ft
2 ** Airy Scene 5.11bMixed 80ft, 4
3 * Scrumdillyishus 5.7Trad 80ft
4 ** Frosty Cone 5.7Trad 80ft
5 * Hot Fudge / Chili Dog 5.9 to 5.10a RTrad 70ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Dilly Bar

Climb the blocky chimney.

5.5Trad 60ft
7 ** Mr. Misty Kiss 5.7Trad 60ft
8 * Double Decker 5.6Trad
9 Bill's Nuts 5.7Trad 50ft
10 * Nuts and Cherries 5.6 RTrad 45ft
11 Date Shake 5.6Trad 35ft
12 * Biological Clock 5.9Mixed 1

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
5.5 Dilly Bar Trad 60ft 1.2. Right-side
5.6 Chili Dog Unknown 1.1. Left Side
Date Shake Trad 35ft 1.2. Right-side
* Double Decker Trad 1.2. Right-side
* Nuts and Cherries Trad 45ft 1.2. Right-side
5.7 Double Delight Unknown 1. Dairy Queen Wall
** Leap Year Flake Trad 90ft 1.1. Left Side
Snake Oil Trad 80ft 1.1. Left Side
Bill's Nuts Trad 50ft 1.2. Right-side
** Frosty Cone Trad 80ft 1.2. Right-side
** Mr. Misty Kiss Trad 60ft 1.2. Right-side
* Scrumdillyishus Trad 80ft 1.2. Right-side
5.8 Lurch Trad 90ft 1.1. Left Side
5.9 Blizzard Unknown 1. Dairy Queen Wall
* Addams Family Trad 100ft 1.1. Left Side
* Biological Clock Mixed 1 1.2. Right-side
5.9 to 5.10a * Hot Fudge Trad 70ft 1.2. Right-side
5.10a Norm Sport 80ft, 5 1.1. Left Side
5.10b Foot Massage Mixed 70ft, 4 1.1. Left Side
Leap Erickson Mixed 100ft, 7 1.1. Left Side
* I Forgot To Have Babies Top rope 80ft 1.2. Right-side
5.10c * The Mojus Sport 100ft, 8 1.1. Left Side
5.11a * Brother From Another Planet Mixed 30ft, 3 1.1. Left Side
5.11b ** Airy Scene Mixed 80ft, 4 1.2. Right-side
5.11c Gomez Mixed 90ft, 4 1.1. Left Side
*** Pat Adams Dihedral Trad 35ft 1.1. Left Side
5.12a * Electric Free Gordon Mixed 35ft, 4 1.1. Left Side
** Toxic Waltz Mixed 35ft, 4 1.1. Left Side